Jump to content

Forums

  1. Reaper Discussion

    1. FAQs 'n Stuff

      Gosh, we have a lot of pinned topics having to do with FAQs. Most of them are in here. Many questions have been answered already. Why don't you take a peek in here first?

      597
      posts
    2. News

      What's happening. Company information, industry information, things that are important.

      754
      posts
    3. Reaper General

      Discussion area for all things Reaper. Do you have an idea for a new figure you'd like to see? Have a general company policy question? Do you want to gush about how cool you think we are? This is the forum for you.

      48974
      posts
    4. Chronoscope

      A forum for Reaper's new cross-genre everything-but-the-kitchen-sink miniatures, where by "kitchen sink" we mean "fantasy."

      3105
      posts
    5. Bones Miniatures & Legendary Encounters

      Questions and discussion about the various Bones ranges or Legendary Encounters line can frolic happily here.

      37263
      posts
    6. ReaperCon

      Find roomies, find rides, ask questions, get answers. That sort of thing.

      49393
      posts
  2. Craft Corner

    1. Show Off

      Do you have a piece that you painted that you'd like the world to see? Stroke your egos: Post your pictures in here.

      219812
      posts
    2. Painting Tips & Advice

      Have a tip to share?  Need advice?  Jump in here.

      88878
      posts
    3. Works In Progress

      We love watching you work. If you have a piece that's incomplete that you simply need advice on, or if you want to take us on a step by step journey through your process for your new dragon, all WIPs are welcome here.

      116644
      posts
    4. Speed / Army / Tabletop Techniques

      We could have called it "Sparmytop" painting, but we're not sure that would have scanned right. DIscussion, questions, and help for your tabletop quality jobs in here.

      5780
      posts
    5. Shutterbug

      Don't know a macro from macaroni? Do you regularly forget to take the lens cap off? In general, do you have photography questions? How about some tips and advice? This is the place for such things.

      2892
      posts
    6. Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain

      Talk about your latest projects, ask questions, discuss articles, and generally share in the subtle art of conversion and presentation.

      25519
      posts
    7. Sculpting

      We know you've been playing with the green stuff. It's practically flying from the shelves. So share your work, share tips, and get advice here.

      13740
      posts
    8. Mini Exchanges and Paint Contests

      We like 'em, they're fun, so here's the spot for them. Organize and communicate here.

      40594
      posts
  3. Reaper Games

    1. CAV

      A discussion forum for the CAV Miniatures and Gaming community.

      23292
      posts
    2. Warlord

      Discussion area for the release rules, faction strategies, the region of Taltos, and the miniatures themselves

      61314
      posts
  4. General Discussion

    1. General Fantasy

      The place to go for rants, raves, and otherwise general discussion regarding the Fantasy universe, especially as it relates to miniatures.

      45708
      posts
    2. General Sci-Fi

      A general discussion forum for things related to Sci-Fi miniatures and gaming.

      12482
      posts
    3. General Modern / Historical

      Discussion about Modern and Historical miniatures and their games.

      4038
      posts
    4. Kickstarter

      A place for discussion of all things Kickstarter. Review the Guidelines before Posting

      148007
      posts
    5. Off-Topic Rampancy

      How about a place to file all of your off-topic posts? What should go in here? (Tasteful) jokes, back-slapping, general randomness, stuff like that.

      430588
      posts
  5. The Sandbox

    1. The Gathering

      Use this space to organize your games.  GMs: Define your scenario and rules when gathering a game.  Interested players:  Post your character and their stats in reply.  When you're ready to play, come see Bryan.

      39925
      posts
    2. The Playing

      Once your game is gathered, GMs check in with Bryan to gain access to start their games in this forum.

      30128
      posts
    3. Fiction, Poetry, and Other Abuses

      A place to post writing, essays, poetry, collaborative writing projects, and other such things that you don't have an outlet for anywhere else. Standard disclaimers apply, be sure to read the rules.

      12191
      posts
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. Brooding Paladin
      Brooding Paladin
      (51 years old)
    2. doghouse1234
      doghouse1234
      (44 years old)
    3. Erk
      Erk
      (36 years old)
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I did the same thing.  Although when. I went and looked at the shipping I decided this is most likely a pass for me.    The dragon is $65 and shipping is $25.  That's nearly 40% of the cost.  That's too much for me and my Bones would suffer. 
    • You're doing great!    That was some smart planning, I think it'll really help you out!
    • Aye. Good massages leave you a bit tender. 
    • So while Buglips mixes up his midtone, but basecoats with his shade colour, I mostly basecoat with my midtone and then shade and highlight from there. This isn't always the case, but for skin it usually is. So I mixed my skintone up with a half and half mix of MSP Palomino Gold and MSP Faded Khaki. That looks pretty tan on the yellow background of my wet palette, but ended up being more of a mustardy colour. It's important to note that I did not thin this paint at all, not because it was a basecoat, because I do typically thin even my basecoats a little bit, but because it didn't need thinning. It's always important to check the consistency of your paints rather than diving right in to thinning them because different ones will have different consistencies. These 2 mixed made for the perfect consistency without me messing with them further. They were just a touch translucent, however, which wasn't a surprise, as yellows often are, so it took me about 3 coats to get a solid basecoat.    The next thing that I like to do, once I have a solid basecoat down on the skin, is to do the eyes. I like painting eyes, but they still don't always go exactly as planned for me, so I find that doing them right after the basecoat is what works for me so that I can easily clean up any mistakes. So I started by painting in the sockets with Brown Liner. This is going to serve as the overall outline of the eye, so I wasn't very careful about staying within the boundaries, I just wanted to make sure that I got every little nook and cranny.   Next I painted pink a little more carefully. I'm really only going to leave this showing in the corners, but I find it easier to just go ahead and paint in the whole eye, rather than trying to get a specific shape in there. I used MSP Entrail Pink.   I got a little messier with that than I'd intended, so I went back in with Brown Liner and cleaned up the edges. There's often a lot of back and forth with eyes (and most areas of painting) so it's important to take your time and try not to get frustrated with yourself when you make a mistake. It's all a part of the process.   Next I painted in the "whites" of the eyes. You don't ever want to use pure white for this for 2 reasons - first of all, using a bright white will contribute to that surprised look that you can sometimes when painting the eyes on a miniature and we don't want that. The second reason is you want to reserve bright white for the reflection point, as the reflection point being the brightest spot in the eyes will help to sell the realistic look that we're going for. So I generally use Warcolours One Coat Beige for the "whites" of my eyes. Any off-white will do when you're dealing with small eyes. I left the pink showing in just barely in the corners of the eyes.   Next I decided that with his yellow skin, green eyes would stand out the best, so I painted in the irises with MSP Peacock Green. You want to try to get these as circular as you can and take up about half of the eye socket. Again, we're trying to avoid the surprised look, so you don't want to leave too much of the "whites" showing. It's also best to pick a direction for the eyes to be pointing. Doing eyes facing forward is difficult to get right as any small difference between them will really show and if your placement is even just barely off, you will almost certainly get a cross-eyed or wall-eyed look. So it's easiest to place the irises off to one side. With this guy, I chose to have him gazing off to his left since his head is facing that way anyway, it will give the most natural look.  Often the eyes on miniatures will have very slight differences to them that you'll need to work with. In this case, his left eye is open a little bit wider and set a little bit higher. See how much white you can see from this view of his eyes? I didn't realize that until a bit later when I was reviewing the pictures that I took. This is often the case with eyes - you'll think, in person, that they look perfect, but once you look at a picture, you realize that things are a little off. I highly recommend taking pictures of the eyes while you're working on them and reviewing so that you can spot any issues that you're not seeing with your eyes alone. Because as you'll see in this next picture... The placement looked just fine on this eye from this point of view. So next I wanted to highlight the irises. This is one of those steps that is a little more advanced when you're painting eyes. If you don't feel confident about putting a second colour in there, then I recommend painting in your irises with a lighter colour than I used at the start. If you do want to do it this way, then start with a darker colour and then with a much lighter colour, which I made by mixing Peacock Green and Palomino Gold... And placed it in the lower half of the iris. You want to treat highlighting the irises somewhat like painting a gem where you'll have a lighter colour at the bottom where the light has passed through the globe of the eye. You can see I went outside the line, but no worries because I can clean that up later. Not sure if this was the point that I expanded the iris in his left eye or not.   Next I took MSP Pure Black for the pupil. You want to do your best to get the placement right on the first go for this, but it's not the end of the world if you don't. Have a blurry picture... And another blurry picture!   Next up was the reflection spot, which I have a couple of tips for. As I said, you want this to be the brightest spot on your eye, so use a pure white. Another thing to note is that the reflection spot should go in the same area on both eyes. A very common mistake is to make the eyes mirror each other (I know because it's a mistake I've made!) by putting the reflection spot either both on the outer side of the eye or both on the inner side of the eye. If you look at reference pictures of real eyes, that's not how reflections work realistically. Pick a spot to place it and stay consistent from one eye to the other. If you put it in the upper left on one, put it in the upper left on the other.  Also, try to place the reflection spot halfway through the iris and the pupil. You'll get the most impact from that spot. If at all possible, try to make a slightly curved line rather than a dot as this will help to follow the round globe shape of the eye and look a little more realistic. However, this is something that I generally only attempt on larger eyes, like on a dragon. For smaller eyes, sometimes doing a dot is your only option and it will be much easier to just put a dot. Lastly, speaking of dots, have you ever gone to make a dot in an eye and by the time you get your brush from the palette to the eye, the tiny amount of white paint has dried on the brush? It's super common and a pain that can lead to a lot of frustration when you're trying to do eyes. So to eliminate that problem, I started using Warcolours One Coat White for my reflection dots. If you've never worked with Warcolours paints before, they use a gel-based medium, which has a longer drying time than most other acrylic paints. I haven't had that drying on the brush from palette to eye problem since I started using it for eyes. Alas, these pictures are blurry.   Lastly, I went back in with my skin basecoat colour and cleaned up around the edges of the eyes. Since his brow is so prominent, I left Brown Liner above the eye to shade it, but made the line at the bottom of the eye much thinner.   Eyes are done!
    •    The first time you get a serious massage, it usually gets a bit sore afterward since it takes a bit of doing to rub out all the knots and tenseness. When you get a bit more used to it and your muscles unwind a bit, you won't feel sore.  
×