Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/11/13 in all areas

  1. 25 points
    I think I'm done with this one. I sculpted the base from Sculpey and the miniature from Greenstuff. C&C always welcome! And a scale shot, just for fun. It did end up larger than I'd originally wanted. All respect to those mini sculptors out there- it's hard to make things so tiny!
  2. 16 points
    Some minis I finished for a new sitcom about a ninja girl, a tiefling, a vampire,and an assassin. Bombshell Babes Wu Ling, Privateer Press Pirate Queen Skarre, Cool Mini or Not Vampire Countess, and Darksword Miniatures Female Assassin from the Reapercon 2013 goody bag. No original paint schemes here, the schemes are originally done by others and look way better. Was trying to do a blue fire , fire elemental. My 12 year old goes "Oh that one is obviously ice!" I was like "WHAT?" "NO", whatever.
  3. 10 points
    (Update 9/23: Zombies and Swarms, oh my!) Rather than make this first post a long page of doom, I'll just reply to it with more pictures and link to it here. 9/23 Zombies and Swarms Hey guys! I figured I'd just start my own topic for my painting log as I power through all the bones I got! I will be updating this as I paint more. :) 77012: Gnoll Warrior My first Bones Mini! I bought him while waiting for the rest to arrive, to see what this was all about. This is out of the box and painted. Didn't know about washing them first. >.> 77169: Flesh Golem Painted as an Earth Golem, because I didn't get the forces of nature addon. 77171: Stone Golem See above. :P 77090: Mason Thornwarden This was an experiment in speed painting. I think I painted him in about 45min from start to finish. Not bad. He was just a breif encounter/NPC for my game the following night and I wanted some color on him. A Goat from Crocodile Games...do you know how hard it is to find a goat/ram mini? Guh. 02764: Desmaendus, Gladiator An interesting thing, my D&D world that I've been running for 6 years now features a fantasy version of Egypt and a Grecco-Roman civilisation. To that end, no fair skinned PCs! Been a lot of fun painting all these characters. :) 02738: Helena Female Gladiator I Lurve this Mini. Really, really fun to paint. 89013: Ezren, Iconic Wizard When working on this guy, I tried to stick to a real limited pallet. I like the way it turned out. 77121: Liela, Dark Elf Wizard So far this is the only Bones mini I've toruble with. A lot of the detail on her was...smudged for a lack of a better term. Was a little bit hard to work on, so some of it got fudged. 14230: Sir Daman,Crusaders Hero I hate to say this, but Reaper desperatly needs some new armored female mounted characters. The Garrity ones that are out there are really, really dated, and the rest either don't have armor, or their horse is standing still. Hopefully we'll see some new ones with KS2!! That being said, I LOVED painting this mini. 77063: Duke Gerard When I knew I was making a mounted character for D&D, I knew I was gonna need a on-foot version. I opened my case of bones, and this guy was the first one I pulled out. I was THRILLED. Close enough. :) 77047: Goldar, Male Barbarian with Heaswap Another fun mini made even more fun with a little head swap. I admit, I did feel a little bad taking the nippers to him, but only for a moment. :) Well, that's all I've got done for now. Cheers! -Yote
  4. 9 points
    Here's the second of my Marvel Stone Golems Team Up: The Juggernaut! You can find more about the Work In Progress on all of the Marvel Team and please give him a thumbs up in the Inspiration Gallery.
  5. 8 points
    This side is finally almost ready! This side is coming along, hopefully finished soon. And this side of this wing is nearly ready. You know, this whole thing would be a lot easier if he was less three dimensional. There's always another side. Oh well, gots to be done. When I return to the table after this short break, I intend to finish blackening all his bits. That'll only leave this drybrush Bone Shadow coat and then all of his parts will be ready for the final push. Also, had I tried to do this the way I first did the head - with the 2 coats of Bone Shadow, then a wash, then a drybrush - there's no way it could have been done nearly in time. But this way? This way I have a chance. Still by no means certain, there's a lot left to do. Also, when people complained about his tail length I thought it was pretty neat. Now that I'm painting a gazillion vertebrae, I'm beginning to agree it's rather long.
  6. 6 points
    Drybrushing can get a bit tricky. It's overall easier than layering, but it still relies a lot on "feel". And to an extent you still have to give thought to your highlight placement like with layering. Where it gets easier is that it's a lot more forgiving, but most of that is because the textures you want to use it on generally have variation anyway. So you can get away with more. The easiest way to avoid problems is to start off lightly. For drybrushing practice or training, one of the best tools is the Testors White Handle Medium brush - it's cheap and you won't feel bad about destroying it. I could save half the time I'm spending if I sacrificed one or two of those, but I don't have many and need to keep them as mixing brushes until I can get more (there's a severe lack of hobby shops in my area). You can use these to practice the most basic drybrushing method, the "scrub" method - where you load the brush, and then scrub almost all the paint off on some paper towel in a circular motion. It's very easy to figure out basic loading and how much to leave on the brush this way, and the Testors brush will unload more easily than a taklon or hair brush. This is basically just to train yourself to recognize the proper baseline of how much should come off. Any model mostly all of one large surface (a dude in full plate, a giant skeleton) will work for this practice because it's hard to get wrong. Assuming whatever brush you're using you don't mind destroying, the key starting out is to scrub most of the paint off before you apply it to the model. So on the dracolich here, the very first pass I'm doing is with a brush barely loaded at all - it's scrubbed off on paper towel until I can't see any coming off onto the towel. This will be the paint at it's most grainy, and I'm going over very lightly to just catch the surface. Depending on how that goes, I'll get a feel for how much the brush is unloading. On the next pass, I might leave a little more on the brush, and again lightly brush to catch the surface. At some point I'll hit the sweet spot and know exactly how much to leave on the brush to do the job I want. Because the raised bits will need the most paint, these are your "corrective" zones - so when you load your brush you will always start in the area you have done. That way if the brush is unloading a bit too much, it's not unloading it where you don't want it. If it does unload too much where I don't want, there are several remedies. If I can catch it quickly, I can just wipe it off with a damp cloth. If not, then a wash of the base underlayer thinned about 50/50 might correct it. So say with Kaladrax here, if I'm doing the next highlight (50/50 aged bone and bone shadow) and wind up making a gloopy bit, then I'd try a wash of bone shadow. But if that failed I'd paint over with bone shadow and do that part up again from scratch. As you practice you'll discover different paints and different loadings will have different properties and effects. There's also an in-between stage that's part layering and part drybrushing. I'll sometimes use this on reds because they can be problem colours. I'll add an illustration of this to this post when I do my next Kaladrax picture update. But basically, if I have a cloak I want to be a very bright red and know I'll be layering it up nice and smooth with red, rather than do a kajillion passes with red to bring it up (red being generally translucent) I may thin the paint just a little and, using a small brush, "dry-layer" the topmost folds with my midtone - so it's rougher than layering, but smoother than pure drybrushing. Then when I properly layer, I'm basically working the transition zone between this highlight and the shadow while also layering this highlight to smooth it out and enhance its brightness. When it works, it looks nice with a lot less effort. This is also what I used on all the green bits of Kaladrax's base, because it was a fast way to do it. It's also handy for dragon scales, particularly if there's a lot of them. This method does not, however, work on skin. That's why Vanessa Redstorm's face turned out so badly, but Janan's turned out so nicely. But in general the rule for drybrushing or dry-layering will always be "less is more". Start off with very little paint and go lightly, then work up as you get a feel for what it's going to do. Here's Danar the Assassin done up as a PC Swashbuckler, showing the intense red I got on his cloak by "dry-layering" reaper pro paint blood red over the aged red brick base, layering reaper blood red over that to smooth it out, and then adding a highlight of much more intense coat d'arms blood red as a layer over the reaper blood red.
  7. 5 points
    So here's the latest mini I have finished. I really enjoyed painting this mini with the exception of it's left eye. That was a real bugger to get to. For you old Greyhawkers, you should recognize the emblem on the shield. I'm starting to play with layering and shading more and more and played with steel colors a bit with this one. It was there but not quite. I've seen Dr. Faust's YouTube video on painting metal and going to give that a try on my next opportunity.
  8. 5 points
    And so, I passed 20 minutes of my day with this passable wall of fire: And then moved on to finish this big guy: And decided on a few...enhancements: And a couple of 8-bit nerd references: (Anyone get them?)
  9. 4 points
    Just wanted to chime in on my own reactions to this. For background: Armed with a couple sets and loose bottles of bargain craft acrylics from Walmart and Home Depot (Daler-Rowney, Folk-Art, Bella, Apple Barrel, and some nameless horrors in paint-by-number style little linked jars), a small set of cheap transparent sun-catcher stains, and a couple packages of cheap craft brushes sold right along side the cheap paints, I got started on painting up some basic rank-and-file monsters, such as goblins, zombies, and skeletons. My initial conclusions: This hobby isn't as easy as I remember it! (That's partly due to the deterioration in my coordination and eyesight over the years, and probably due to the cheap paints and brushes.) Craft paint does seem more than adequate for dry-brushing bulk beasties for tabletop use. I can get a couple miniatures a night painted up to at least commercial pre-painted plastic standards, while watching TV after a long day of desk work. Sure, that's not a particularly high standard to beat, but I think the results look better than the pre-painted plastics, especially from D&D Miniatures. Craft paint doesn't seem to thin well, at all. If I had trouble with washes in the past, it's hopeless for me now. Craft paint takes a little more work than I remember to apply as a base coat. I can't tell if that's can be blamed entirely on the cheap paint, or partly on the qualities of "Bonesium" as opposed to 1980's-era metal, or if it's just my memory playing tricks on me. But, straight from the bottle, the black Apple Barrel paint is a bit too thick to cover well without losing detail, and not easy to thin down quite right to cover effectively. Craft paint looks much darker than expected drybrushed onto a black base coat. It seems to be a little more transparent than I remember the miniatures paint I worked with in the 1980's being. (This really threw off my original plans to dry-brush a medium tone over the black, and then dry-brush highlights over that - it worked just as well to dry-brush light colors directly onto the black, and then highlight with a second coat of the light color on top of the highest points.) The craft paint quality varied wildly between manufacturers, and between different colors from the same manufacturer's boxed set. Some colors from the same set worked pretty close to what I remember from the miniatures acrylic paints from 20 or so years ago, some required a couple coats to show up correctly, some seemed soupy with weird clumps of pigment which looked awful wet but improved surprisingly well on drying. The metalics worked a little better than I thought they would... a bit darker than I hoped, but effective. (Folk Art "Sequin Black" was too dark to do much with; it might make a better base coat for a mostly metallic miniature, such as an Iron Golem or heavily armored mook.) Some of the oddball, offbeat colors that came out of the boxed sets were a treat to work with. For example, Bella "Star Dust" glitter paint was a weird, somewhat transparent whitish paint with multi-colored glitter embedded in it, which did interesting things when covered with sun-catcher kit stains: it makes a reasonably effective gemstone effect. I haven't had a chance yet to do much else with the sun-catcher stains; these are used for painting over clear plastic toys that hang in windows to give a kind of "stained glass" effect. I used such stains in the past for creating gemstone effects and painting eyes by staining over bright metallic paint - the results usually look glassy or crystaline, and from what I've seen so far, they seem to work just about as well as I remembered for these purposes. So far, dry-brushing seems to be the way to go with these paints. But, with so much inexpensive paint and so many miniatures to work with, I might try experimenting more with washes and stains than I would have the last time I ever tried this, back when it was hard to find metal minis in a small town, and serious miniatures paint was expensive and just as hard to find: I can finally afford to experiment and practice until I get it right, if possible. Who might best use craft acrylics? In the end, I'd say cheap craft paints do have a niche to fill in miniatures painting: you will get what you pay for and won't be the best choice for set-pieces and cherished character models, but they are quite functional and effective for getting bands or hordes of mooks on the table reasonably quickly. (Sorry I don't have any photos at this time, photography isn't one of my strong points - maybe later.)
  10. 4 points
    Playing around with something I've been waiting to do for the past few months but wasn't sure if I'd have the time due to wanting to paint up something nice this way. Well, I decided to try it out on a Bones first and see how it looks and so far so good. Basically it's two tone for each color used where one tone is the highlight and one tone is the shading. So far white is the highlight and either Big top red or Rosy skin are the shades. Not the cleanest of blending (especially from the angle I took the photo) but it gets across what I'm going for.
  11. 4 points
    Added "Dragonmen" and "Varanadar" tags to the six figures from that set. Added "Amoloch" name to 03436. Added "Dar'Karak" name to 03022. Added all 6 names to the 10030 set. (The names in the box-back image seem clear enough to me. Thanks for that.) Added "Viking Hero" to 03385 so it is consistent with the printed card. As for the Bones tags: I've added tags (in my free time) to the Pathfinder and Chronoscope Bones, by matching the tags used for the original metal versions of the figures. I guess that the Reaper folks want tags on all of the fantasy Bones, too, but no one has had time to do that yet. I've found that the figures in Previews usually cannot be tagged at all, so I was able to tag the Bones figures only recently. Hang tight for now.... Thanks, Derek
  12. 4 points
    More painting bits black. Almost done with this now, finally. If I'm lucky, I might get all the Bone Shadow drybrush basecoat done by tomorrow night. Leaving me with thursday and friday to do the highlights. I hope so.
  13. 4 points
    So, this weekend I did some paint in my hellhound, starting with a brown wash to cover those pure purple shadow lines. Then I move to the spikes and nearly finished the cooling-from-hot-blaze effect. Then painted the nose black, the claws red and the fangs white. Now I just have to do the clean-up in the wash, do the highlights and the base. Here is the pictures: and then...
  14. 3 points
    Been staring at the Bones Stone Golems, 77171, and wondering what to do with them. Ran ideas around and round ... starting with the Jade Golem from vulture ... pulled some greens to consider as well as other alternate colors for golems. Onyx, Jade, Rudy, Topaz ... gem stones? Hmmm. Rock. Rock facets. So I start looking about the Interwebs for how to paint the worn rock edging. I pull up stone golem images and I run across: Ben Grimm, The Thing. And I recall how my group refers to miniatures. We always compare them to various media figures, so why not start there. I present to you, Three Marvel Golems: The Thing The Hulk TBD The last one ... I'm looking for a solid-colored, "massive" Marvel character. Colossus, perhaps? Or can I just represent Captain America? Or go with "strength" and make a "Thor" sans cape? Throw down your thoughts. I plan to start with The Thing. Suggestions on techniques to get the best version of Thing's orange rock feel are welcome. Thanks, T
  15. 3 points
    Just need to firstly say, thank you Corporea and OneBoot, this is all your doing! See: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/50027-oneboots-kickstarter-bones-wip-advice-and-comments-welcome/?p=761334 Here's his horn, weird eye and papery (useless) butterfly wings The gears that I plan to fit to where his feet used to be: And some shields, if I find a place for them: And how I imagine the wheels/gears will work, they need to be smaller though: Now I just need some more random steampunk stuff. I was thinking doing one of his front claws a bit more clawey, and running tubing down it. Then it's off to painting :P
  16. 3 points
    Mine still needs a good bit of painting. But, I plan to get a lot of work done on it this Friday and Saturday as I have practically nothing to do those days. Should be done on time or close to it. GF
  17. 3 points
    Now for the Marvel Team-Up Part: The Thing & Juggernaut! OR IS IT ,,, Battle Manhattan! Sent Juggernaut to SHOW OFF!
  18. 3 points
    Part of me is glad I bought so many of those WotC prepainted minis back in the day. Selling a few of them paid for my Bones I pledge (hell I sold a huge lot early last year and paid for my new floors and sewer repair!!) so selling a few more will easily see me through this next Bones KS!
  19. 3 points
    Ok, it's been a while, but I managed to make some progress yesterday. I tried to attach few more legs to the centipede, but failed miserably =). So I thought this is good enough for table top and called it a quit. So the first centipede is ready for paint! As for what I learned in this progress was mostly patience =). Well, also to plan and research more and better. The legs vary in size too much, eyes came too big and look like sun glasses =) etc. But it was a fun learning process all together! Thank you very much for your help and inspiring comments! I already washed the vaseline out of it, so I think I'll prime it tonight. The second one is coming along too, but I rushed it a bit and will have to make some corrections later. Although I think I'm not going to stress too much on how this will come together also. I did decide to try this other way around though. I sculpted the legs first, and think I'll try to attach them straight to sculpted, uncured body. Do you think it's a good idea? I also had some green stuff left when I finished with this, and decided to use it to some kobolds. I'll be having lots of kobolds in my game, and three of them are some kind of bosses, so I wanted to give them a little bit different appearance. One is a wizard, one is a cleric and the last one is a ranger with a bow. I think the bow came out ok, and the wizards staff and cloak are acceptable, but the hooded cleric is a complete mess =). The Green stuff had cured too much and just didn't want to work with me anymore. Ah well, live and learn again.
  20. 2 points
    Welp. I finished off the last of the medium man packed gun teams from the PSC army bundles I bought..all thats left of the infantry stuff is the 6 large based Heavy Mortar teams.Which i'm halfway done...so close :) the bases are mostly made up of small bases I had left over from the 3 packs of plastic rubble bases I had left. I just glued two of them them onto some blister plastic and filled in the gap in the middle they're abit rough around the edges but it worked out ok. The two in the front right were made from a large base I cut in half then just used wood filler and sand on to create a bit of a dirt mound.
  21. 2 points
    With this and Gangnam Style, all I need is one more to complete the Unholy Trinity. I'll set them on repeat, 24/7, and see how long it takes for my neighbours to begin eating each other's brains.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Either that or that whole Nike campaign thing. Whatever motivation works!
  24. 2 points
    Due to a bit of serendipity, I found http://arcanepaintworks.blogspot.com/2013/09/p3-metallics-black-label.html'>this article talking about P3 metallics. I wasn't even looking for it! Anyways, it mentions that they blend nicely with P3's inks for tinting, so I'll give that a go next, since I just so happen to have a bottle of their Brown Ink. @buglips - I think I'm starting to understand your feeling for old Partha paints. Just thinking about P3's metallics makes me want to run right over to my FLGS and buy every last bottle of metallic P3 paint they have. ~~~~~ Did a quick Black Wash on the black parts of the Well of Chaos, and a Brown Wash on the brown bits, to help with durability. There's just something in Reaper's washes that's tougher than their regular paints. I didn't bother with a pic of this, since it looks...exactly the same. I did however start playing around with the metallic parts of it, and I can't decide whether to coat all of the brown bits (except the head and tentacles, I've got special plans for those) in the Bronze (as seen on the left), or whether to just do the outlines and do something different (maybe silver? drybrushed Bronze?) in the middle (as seen on the decoration on the right side.) Opinions wanted! Last, but not least, I'll just leave these here: Consider me quite thoroughly sidetracked. Huzzah! --OneBoot :D
  25. 2 points
    Here's the nearly finished Juggernaut. Gonna do another pass of shading / highlighting this evening or tomorrow.