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Showing most liked content since 03/12/18 in all areas

  1. 50 points
    I finally decided to call her finished. Sana is, as usual from Hasslefree Miniatures, a great sculpt. I really enjoyed painting her. Hope you enjoy my paint work on this figure. Her WIP is here.
  2. 43 points
    Overall pretty happy with how he turned out. Would love any feedback for improvement...
  3. 42 points
    I finished up the Obsidian Crypt from Bones 3's Graveyard expansion. Used a fair amount of spray paint on this one, as I found that it didn't interact as badly with the harder Bonesium than it does with the regular stuff. I also used a bit of blue painter's tape to keep various areas protected, and wound up making use of a marbling spray to get the effect I wanted, and I'm pretty happy with it. It worked best on the floor rather than the walls, but I'm satisfied with it overall. I haven't glued any of the walls together, because it makes it easier to use as terrain or display. I also mounted some magnets in the floor, and glued some nails into the open areas in the walls so that the whole thing stays together better. It was my first real attempt at using magnets in miniatures, and I'm pretty excited about it.
  4. 34 points
    Hi Everyone, I've complete my first two repaints. They serve as a progress marker, and to replace the originals which I sold. I feel like I'm finally getting some good looking skin tones, that I'm happy with, unfortunately the matte varnish seems to kill some of the shading. These pics were taken before the varnish was applied. I painted both of them with color schemes to match the originals. Would doing a gloss varnish, then a matte coat help preserve some of the shading? Also my photography has gotten better, although it still could use some improvement. And I'm slowly working on doing better on the basing. The originals had no basing. I'm think I'm going to buy a leaf punch and some cork. Is paper or real leaves recommended for making the miniature leaves? Thanks all, hope you enjoy the pics.
  5. 34 points
    So I got this guy in the holiday grab bag - figured it would be a good test for NMM. (Funny side note: in my paint journal he's described as 'IDK - some kind of bat knight.') My objectives on this mini were: 1. Try to do more NMM. I've done a very cartoony rendition of NMM previously, so this is my first time in a semi-realistic method. 2. See if I could paint a convincing 'bad guy' using mostly non-traditional bad guy colors. 3. See if I could take a baby step towards OSL with the red glow from the visor. This was my 'bridge too far' -- I think this may have been the wrong model to attempt this on, as the feature is relatively small and has little interaction with other surfaces on the mini. It may have been better to work this on the gem. However, I think I'm also still missing some of the technique as well.
  6. 34 points
    "One of my favourite range of figures ever was Citadel's 1980's licensed "Lord Of The Rings" minis. I have finally decided to get all the miniatures I own painted up (over time) & try to acquire the ones which are missing from my collection (& paint them up too!)". Here is my next completed mini - Strider. It's actually part of a blister of 3 minis (ME1 - Fellowship Heroes) which also includes Gandalf & Frodo. I love the sculpting on this figure - grim yet regal. To make him look like he is roaming the wilds, I added some dirt onto the bottom of his cloak & boots by drybrushing a light brown followed by a dark brown nearest the bottom. Thanks for looking!
  7. 33 points
    "One of my favourite range of figures ever was Citadel's 1980's licensed "Lord Of The Rings" minis. I have finally decided to get all the miniatures I own painted up (over time) & try to acquire the ones which are missing from my collection (& paint them up too!)". Here is my next completed mini - Gandalf. It's actually part of a blister of 3 minis (ME1 - Fellowship Heroes) which also includes Strider & Frodo. He was quite nice to paint overall - not too complicated either. Thanks for looking!
  8. 32 points
    Haven't paint much mini recently, having been building resin kit of anime characters mostly, but I managed to finish Marthrangul here, done in a colour scheme that parody the Rathalos in Monster Hunter series. The base is a CD covered with plaster wall hole filler and chopped up plastic spruces added in for rigidity, the covered with black paint, cracked earth effect paint and a lot of moss grass. The biggest failure has to be the pattern on the wings. I wanted to add some random pattern onto the wings using a stencil, but it just didn't work out at all...
  9. 31 points
    Hi again, everyone! Okay, so I know I was promising a good WIP thread, but I managed to finish this adorable little chibi up so fast that it would not have made for a very good thread. The next mini will be WIP material! I actually started on this mini last ReaperCon, where I used her as a demonstration miniature for my chibi painting class, and I ended up liking the results enough that I actually came back to her after all these months (while waiting for some supplies to arrive for a bigger project!). I simply love chibi minis, and the Reaper chibis are fantastic to work with! Now I just eagerly await the upcoming release of the fantasy-themed Bones chibis! Thanks a bunch for looking!!!
  10. 31 points
  11. 29 points
    A figure I really like, and Reaper doesn't do many of these sort of semi-historical figures. The example I received had the blade of the rapier almost tied in a knot. No chance of properly straightening that, so I cut it off and replaced it with a carefully blunted pin. I like to think that this makes the whole thing look in better proportion, but she can be a menace to pick it up!
  12. 28 points
    So I recently posted Rozmina, the Half-Orc Pirate from Derek Schubert. Here is the other half-orc I was working on at the same time, but as this one had a lot more going on with armor and such, he took quite a while longer. Really cool mini sculpted by Bob Olley around 2003, large figure, good heft to him. the only frustrating part on this one was the chainmail and trying to get all the paint into all those little holes, and I can see some spots where it didn't work quite like I wanted it to. Also what color would you guys call his metals that aren't "steel" colored? Referring to the hilt, the belt buckle, and that heart looking thing protecting his manly parts?
  13. 27 points
    Here's 01576, Gulp the Chibi Deep One. Metal Exclusive 2015 Reaper Artist Conference Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bobby Jackson.
  14. 27 points
    Here's 01573, Mel the Chibi Bathalian (illithid), Exclusive 2015 Reaper Artist Conference Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. This one was certainly one of the most challenging and fun Bonesylvanian I painted so far. I've read about their background story and knowing that illithids comes from outter space I decided to give it a little astal twist. I was greatly inspired by the amazing paint job on Antimatter Games DeepStar Kraken and added dots on its forehead.
  15. 26 points
    A tribe of Ogres from Reaper Miniatures. I was originally just going to get the Matriarch, having previously traded away the other Ogres from the Kickstarter core set, thinking I had enough from my former Ogre Kingdoms army for Warhammer. Seeing them all together in person changed my mind! Sadly, my not-so-local shop was out of the Smasher. I'll have to add him in later! The Matriarch. I'm tempted to get another and convert her to look more like a fighter. I was tempted to slice down the Goblin servant's ears and paint him as a baby Ogre on a leash. The Chieftain. I love his door-shield! The Clubber (not to be confused with the Ogre Raver) The Guard.
  16. 26 points
    I always feel humbled painting these minis. I never quite capture the quality. Critiques are welcome. I feel like I made some "rookie" mistakes.
  17. 25 points
    The Dragon Hatchling sculpts are cute, but the Bones casts are terrible. Due to this I didn't try to clean them up well and just put them on new bases. Either way it is two more models off the bench and painted to an acceptable toy box level...and so what if I painted the geen one red and the black one green! btw I touched up the splotchy black base rims after I took this picture. Comments encouraged, Mike
  18. 25 points
    First attempt at OSL. Guildball model "Stoker".
  19. 24 points
    This is a Dragyri Warrior ( I believe) from Dark Age, he was sent to me by @malefactus a while ago to contribute to my Lost World Project. WIP: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/69308-lost-world-project-glitterwolf-paints-coldblooded-creatures-and-conquistadores/&page=117 In my Lost World he is Drakh a mutant turtle warrior. He has a pet Meso, a Raptor Hatchling from Bombshell Miniatures. Base is made with a Greenstuffworld Roller Pin and some tuft/flock. Here they are, the last pictures are with my Jungle Photobackdrop Board to show them in their natural habitat. Enjoy!
  20. 24 points
    Did up all my NPC Bones Guards. I kinda like how they turned out. Oh and he colors differences are for players so they can e them on the board.
  21. 23 points
    Presenting Veteran Hearne part of the Hunters Guild and my first finished Guild Ball mini! I'm painting up the rest of the set here. Had lots of fun painting this guy, I think I'm going to enjoy working through the Guild Ball range. As always, any comments or criticisms are warmly received.
  22. 23 points
    Ever since we received our bones 3, I've thought that this guy looked liked Zurg from Toy Story. Today I moded him by removing his shield and helmet decor and gave him a quick paint job with Zurg as my inspiration. Nothing fancy, but my kids love him.
  23. 23 points
    I think I regard it more as an accident because I stop consciously thinking about the direction I'm taking. It generally happens when something has gone awry and my brain goes into crisis mode, which is why there are no pictures of the process because it's not that I'm trying to achieve a certain goal, I'm just trying to bring it back from bad. Maybe we're describing the same thing and it's just that my pessimistic nature is showing. Ok, so for the most part I didn't take any step by step pictures of the shield because I was just using the same methods as previous areas. The outer area of the shield I wanted to do in gold, so I basecoated with MSP Malvernian Purple, then over that with P3 Blighted Gold. Attempting a real TMM is something that I've only dabbled with and honestly I'm not sure how to go about taking pictures of steps. I tried and every picture looked exactly the same in my lighting. So I'm just going to tell you that I highlighted with a 50/50 mix of P3 Blighted Gold and P3 Brass Balls, then I did the very edges with straight P3 Brass Balls. For the shadows, I used Secret Weapon Rust Shadow, which does a really beautiful job of dulling down the metallic shine while still having an organic shadow look to it. Really in love with that paint. There are a couple of damage marks in the shield. I used MSP Nightmare Black for those as I was basecoating the inner area of the shield for the Secret Weapon rust treatment. With some real time feedback from Buglips, I went a little bit darker with the rust effect because of the existing texture of the sculpt. So after going all over with all of the steps of the Secret Weapon rust paints, I went back over it with some Rust Shadow. So here's where that left us: Next up, I also wanted to do the round detail on his shield as a gem. So first off when you paint a gem, you want to make sure that you know what direction your light is coming in from. I ten to light from above and slightly to the left for most things, which is the way that I did the highlighting overall on the shield, so that's how my gem will get its lighting as well. So I started out with painting a semicircle with MSP Pure Black in the top left. Then I filled in the rest of the area with MSP Black Green. Then I went over most of the previous area with MSP Clear Green. Then I mixed just a little brush full of Moth Green into the Clear Green and did a semi circle in the bottom right. Then I did a heavy glaze of some more Clear Green. There was a lot of push and pull with this to get the blending right. Then I glazed in some MSP Candlelight Yellow to both further smooth things out and to impart that beautiful glow that glazing Candlelight Yellow over something tends to give. I don't know how obvious that reads on the camera, but I would recommend trying it sometime over green. Lastly I took MSP Pure White and put a couple of little dots in a semicircle shape for the final highlight. Then it was late and I finished up Rictus with a few simple things that I didn't take step by step pictures of. I started by basecoating the horns of his helmet with Secret Weapon Handle Wood. Then I painted the tips of the horns with MSP Pure Black, leaving the edges jagged. I shaded the bottom edges of the horns with a quick mix of SW Handle Wood and SW Rust Shadow. I highlighted the tips of the horns with a couple of quick mixes of MSP Pure Black and SW Handle Wood. Then I basecoated the base with MSP Afterburn Grey (It's a discontinued Heavy Gear paint but tends to be my go to medium grey) and then lined the cracks with Brown Liner, then went over the rim of the stone pattern with SW Rust Shadow. I then glazed in touches of SW Rust Shadow, SW Old Rust and MSP Black Green over the tops of the stones. I highlighted the stones with a couple of quick mixes of the MSP Afterburn Grey with SW Handle Wood. Then I cleaned up the rim of the base with MSP Pure Black. And with that, Rictus was done! Thanks for following along! I hope y'all like him and that maybe this will give you some ideas for painting your own Rictus, or some part of it helps you in some way or that it was just fun for you to follow along with!
  24. 22 points
    Not sure if I have posted these in the past but my recent project was to build a background for pics of post apocalyptic miniatures. Used the hirst arts bridge mold some card stock that I corrugated using a toothpaste squeezer and some kraken wargames scatter terrain. Hope you like it.
  25. 22 points
    The second mini from the Layer Up! Learn to Paint Kit, Ingrid the Gnome Thief: A fun little mini. She taught me that I love to overdo shadows. This is very evident on her cape, though glazing did help a little bit. On the bright side, the sculpt has some big, expressive eyes, and I think both came out halfway decent for a change. This one has a fun base, as well. Lots of details to pick out, and the instructions have a neat combo for painting mossy patches that I’ll have to steal for future use. Feedback is appreciated!
  26. 22 points
    This guy was a lot of fun to paint. As always C&C is welcome.
  27. 21 points
    Hello everone, I'm from the Netherlands and new to Reaper miniatures and the forum. I just finnished my first dark haven miniature; Thora the gnome bard by Sandra Garrity. 02721 She will be used as my girlfriends character in a prolonged pathfinder campaign. Overall I'm really happy with the result and I wanted to share :)
  28. 21 points
    I needed a bunch of female figures for an RPG set in the 1920s, and I needed them fast and cheap. Sunday I ordered some Heroclix for a buck each, and by Wed evening they were in my hands. I need to modify the figures to have longer dresses appropriate for the period when the game is set. First thing I did was cut them off at the feet. I found a hobby knife worked well. A sharp hobby knife would work better. I used two part epoxy putty to make skirts. I just smooshed it on and smoothed it out. I should have started with a blob between the legs and let it dry overnight for stability. Next: primer, paint and bases.
  29. 21 points
    Here is my take at the Warg ! I will use him for Strahd in his wolf form
  30. 21 points
    Painted (mostly) by-the-numbers, Anirion: This was a departure from my normal style of painting, and I made a number of mistakes, but wanted to stick to the instructions and see how it all turned out. All things considered, I think it looks decent. I didn’t worry about trying to correct the bend in the staff or any mold lines. And I added a third highlight layer (more yellow) to the robes, to make them pop just a bit more. The camera washed these out, it seems. The little details probably deserved more attention, but the focus here was clearly on the robes. I think I did learn a few new things, hopefully for the better. More practice will help. Comments and critiques welcome.
  31. 20 points
    SO I was browsing through the mushrooms on the Pinterest site when their Mushroom Muse showed me these: I HAD to make some of my own. Of course they would need a setting. Being rather Faerie Folk type mushrooms, a Faerie setting was the thing. The Entrance to a Deep Place seemed an idea AND, getting carried away with the thing resulted in this, seen here on my worktable: AND with a dark background: The Welcoming Committee: ...by the entrance: Guards may eventually be placed in the side hollow: On the far side: With an overhead shot: Ideas for further adventures in Faerie Lore are swirling through my Old Mind.
  32. 20 points
    I really like this one. When I found out it came with 2 weapon selections I had to get another one. Not alot of Dragonborn minis out there....wish there was more.
  33. 20 points
    I didn't mean to miss a day but daylight savings time caused my soul to leave my body. So the next thing I decided to tackle was the armour. I'd already basecoated with MSP Nightmare Black because blue gives a nice look under silver metallic. So on top of that, I put a coat of MSP Durasheet Alloy - it's a discontinued Heavy Gear paint, but any medium silver will do. You can see some of the Nightmare Black peaking through. You may have noticed that when I know I'm going to be doing more to an area, I don't bother with trying to get a solidly opaque coat and this is no exception. One coat and I'm calling it good. You'll also notice that I'm painting almost all of the metal on him the same colour. I think it would look really nice to break up the metals on him into two different colours, however, I wanted to make him rusty (REALLY rusty) and I was super excited about trying out the Secret Weapon paints for what they're marketed for. Obviously I've said before that paint is paint and you should go beyond the label and use the colours for what they are, but that doesn't mean that going with the label is a bad thing to do. So while I've been very much enjoying these paints for other uses, I've been really looking forward to using them for rust and as you'll see, they do not disappoint. So I started with Secret Weapon Rust Shadow pretty much all over. And you guys know that I've been singing this particular paint's praises for a while now and I'm going to do it some more Because oh my gosh, if I were wanting to do a TMM (True Metallic Metal) on this armour, Rust Shadow would be a fantastic paint to use for shading. I am absolutely in love with Secret Weapon's Rust Shadow. So what I'm doing with the rust effect is I'm going to layer up in the same way that I would if I were going about it with smooth blending - with each paint, I'm going to cover it over a smaller and smaller area. The difference here is that I'm really just going all over with this rust technique. It is not necessarily going to be technically correct when it comes to lighting. I'll decide later if I want to put more time into trying to correct the lighting or if I'm happy with the overall look without it being closer to technically correct. Next up was SW Old Rust, which is a purpley maroon colour. I think this paint will also come in handy for TMM for the deepest shadows. Next up was SW Brown Rust and, spoiler alert, this is when it's really going to start looking like rust. I should mention, I was using a crappy brush for all of this because the technique I was using is scumbling - which is just a funny sounding word for mashing paint onto an area so that it leaves a random smooshy blob that isn't too opaque. You don't want to have a ton of paint on your brush for this, but you don't want to remove as much paint as you do when drybrushing. I looked at a few pictures of rusty armour to get an idea of how I wanted to place the rust, but I pretty much just decided that "everywhere" was what I was going for. The only parts that I was very intentional with were the sword and the hole over the stomach. It's probably pretty difficult to tell in pictures, but the stomach area of Rictus' armour is missing, so you can see his spine. It's such a neat detail of the sculpt. So I decided that the rim of that area needed to have a lot of rust to show that it was eaten away. I decided that Rictus here was laying face down in a ditch for quite some time before some jolly Necromancer came along and resurrected him. Also on the sword, I read one time that rust would be most prominent on the blade toward the hilt.....or perhaps it was that the rust would be knocked off toward the tip due to use. I don't know. Something like that. But anyway, I focused a lot of rust there and also on the areas of the sword where there was obvious damage to the blade because rust maybe eats away at nicks like that.....maybe? I'm not really sure, but looks good to me. Next was SW Red Rust. I think I've run out of rambles for the moment. So next was SW Orange Rust... And lastly, SW Yellow Rust. So how about these Secret Weapon rust paints, eh?
  34. 19 points
    I completed this guy a while ago (working on getting caught up on posting). I'm happy with the outcome. The face color is a "happy accident", sometime you get lucky. There is still some shine from sealing (gloss followed by brush dullcote) . I still have a lot of work to improve on shading/highlighting and need to be brave enough to do some basing. I am open to suggestions you may have. Thank you,
  35. 19 points
    Ok, here is my first NMM paint job. I'm not sure if I dislike the technique, or just picked a bad mini to try it on first. I found it a bit fiddly and frustrating with all of the dully cast spikey bits. I did a pretty quick TT quality job on everything not NMM, so I know there are a lot of places to improve there. Also, I feel like the photos make it look better than it really is. I'm pretty happy with how the front of the armor turned out, but the shield and shoulder pauldrons were frustrating. Would truly appreciate any feedback on improving the quality of my NMM! I'll be doing Mangu next and tracking in the same WIP thread. Wip thread here:
  36. 19 points
    What a neat idea! A graveyard golem!
  37. 19 points
    I had a little pencil scribble in my sketchbook that this painting was based on. Sometimes my paintings are based on elaborate preparatory drawings, sometimes just improvised as I go. This one was a a little between. I generally do the first layers of the painting as a grisaille, which is to say a single-color image. Black and white is too stark, so I build up the image with Burnt Umber and a little Lead White. You may notice I am not using Titanium White. This is because Titanium White, although an intensely bright opaque stark white, is also a high oil absorber that makes for a greasy paint that dries very slowly to a slightly brittle film. Pigments are idiosyncratic, and very different in how they act. Lead White, although more translucent and creamier in color than Titanium, is a low oil absorber that dries quickly to a strong, flexible film. I usually only use Titanium White in the brightest whites in the very last layers of an oil painting. This is one way that acrylic paints are simpler to use than oils, and partly why I find using them on miniatures so relaxing. Please note this is all still all the equivalent of the initial priming on miniatures. The sculpture on miniatures provides the "image" to work with, but in panel paintings the painter is doing all of the shaping work as well as the painting. Burnt Umber oil paint dries very quickly (idiosyncratic pigments ...), so I needed to paint the initial image in a single day. This is the initial sketch-in of the composition in Burnt Umber, with a little Lead White at the top. I am only using a small amount of white, as I have found that the intensity of the underpainting works best if it is in a single color with the ground showing through for whites. While the paint is still wet I add and move around and intensify the layers. Burnt Umber is a translucent pigment, so the thicker the layers the closer it gets to black. It will provide a rich tone under later layers. Here the virtues of oil paint show. Even a fast drier like Burnt Umber will stay wet for most of the first day. This lets me take away paint for increased luminosity (as in the "cloud" forms in the bottom half of the painting). Paint can be erased broadly with paper towels and pretty precisely with Q-Tips, wetted with a little paint thinner if necessary. This is a great way to control highlights (not so much on miniatures, where the cotton fibers tend to catch on the sculpt and stick). And this was the first day's painting, producing a tonal underpainting so that the lights and shadows will inform the final image. Later: Color! And stuff!
  38. 18 points
    Finished up these two ladies yesterday. And with their completion, I'm now officially out of Nolzur's Dwarves to paint until I go get more.
  39. 18 points
    So here's my latest creation. I tried a different technique this time around by "overbrushing" for the the highlights on the skin and it was . . . ok. I can see it as a great way to speed the process along for a speedier paint job, and might be great for painting armies and units, but it does have its limits when it comes to blending. I'm also not sold on the blending in the armor as it did not blend real smoothly despite my best attempts but its a start at least. As always, any ideas, suggestions, critiques, feedback, etc. are most appreciated!
  40. 18 points
    Howdy, I have come for your lubricant! Click to zoom, Kev!
  41. 18 points
    Howdy, Lead you to R'lyeh I will! Click to zoom, Kev!
  42. 18 points
    Another I can't find on the site to list the name for.....any help? I think it was on of the Reaper monthly collectables from last year.
  43. 18 points
    Someone will correct me but I don't know the name on this one and I can't find it on my reaper list. Anyway it turned out ok...nuff said.
  44. 18 points
    So Buglips and I were discussing it because I genuinely thought that the thighs were cloth and we figured out why I thought they were and how I came to agree that they were not. So I don't know how well you can actually see that, but maybe you can see how there's a bit of a curve to the back of his thigh, which my brain read as sagging cloth. There are also creases at the back of his knee. Buglips told me something about armour that I'll never remember enough about to repeat. So what actually convinced me that it was not cloth was because of the thickness of his thigh. Obviously he's just a skeleton, so if he just had cloth pants, then his thighs would not be so thick, they'd be bony and extremely saggy. So for there to be structure there, the intention must be for it to be armour and the creases at the back of the knee are just the gap between the armour plates where you can see cloth poking through. So I basecoated his sleeves and the back of his knee with MSP Black Green. And then I did the thighs and the shield arm with the same metal and rust method as the rest of the areas. So next I wanted to paint the other metal areas, which I wanted to be gold. I decided to basecoat those areas with purple because, well, why not? I thought it might give them a slight undertone that you might not necessarily actually see consciously, but that would make them go just a little bit better with the purple cloak. So I grabbed MSP Malvernian Purple, literally because it was the closest purple to my hand at the time, and basecoated the inside of the shield and the stripe down the middle of his helmet and the hilt of his sword. Then I went over the purple with P3 Blighted Gold, which is one of my favourite metallic paints. It's just so lovely. On the inside of the shield, I also went over the Blighted Gold with Secret Weapon Rust Shadow to dull down the shine since that entire area is in shadow up against his body...at least with the way that I planned on positioning his shield. Then I started working on his face and oh man, you guys. I've painted a lot of skeletons but for some reason, it just wasn't working out with this guy. He just looked off. The colours were wrong, the contrast was wrong and he somehow looked cross-eyed even though he doesn't have any eyes.... And in trying to fix it, I just..... I don't know if this ever happens to you guys, but.....I accidentally OSL'd. Here's another shot with a white background so that the camera isn't going above and beyond with the white balance and blowing out the contrast in the process. That picture is not really any better. One of these days I swear I'm going to sort out these lighting issues. I was thinking about maybe trying one of those arc lights that gives more consistent light. Anyway, I digress. So since I hadn't actually intended on doing this OSL, I didn't take any pictures of the process. However, since I'm also incompetent, I managed to totally forget about painting his arm that's showing through his shredded arm cloth, so I was able to document the steps on that! So I started out by painting the arm bone with..........I'm honestly not sure what colour that is. It's one of the MSP bone paints. It honestly doesn't matter because I just wanted to give it a bright off-white base. Next I took the best paint that Reaper makes, 09248 Moth Green Or, ok, I suppose that's just my subjective opinion, maybe not everyone has need for the best acid green colour ever or something; at the very least it's my favourite Reaper paint and I very much think that everyone should own it. Anyway, I took arguably the best paint that Reaper makes, my beloved 09248 Moth Green and went over the arm bone with it. I want this to be my brightest point on the arm. Moth Green is a touch translucent so the brightness of the off white beneath it is really going to punch up the brightness of the area. Next, I'm going to tag @Fire_Eyes because I was just giving a suggestion about this to her - I wanted you to see what I ended up using for this. I probably could've thinned it a bit more because I do still have a wee bit of chalkiness but I ended up going for a slightly darker green to dull it down to make sure that the brightest point was my light source. I started with a base of MSP Candlelight Yellow and mixed just half a brush worth of MSP Clear Blue into it and that gave me this pretty translucent darker than Moth Green but still very acidic slime looking green colour. I would want to play with this a little bit more in the future because it was still just slightly chalky because there is a little bit of an opaque base to the Candlelight Yellow. I'm not sure why I grabbed the Candlelight Yellow instead of Clear Yellow. Truth be told, I really love Candlelight Yellow and so the thought process behind it was most likely "Ooh, I love Candlelight Yellow." I'm really not kidding when I say that the OSL just kinda happened, so when doing the arm, I wanted to recreate what I had done on the head rather than play with it and risk having two parts looking drastically different. On future figures, I would use Clear Yellow instead and see if that resolves the slight chalkiness and if not, then I'd explore possible additives to mix in. Anyway. I took that mix and concentrated it on the areas closest to the bone like the inside of the sleeve and the fabric folds closest on the cloak. This is my strongest light, but I made it darker to maintain the brightness of the source. Then I took a couple of brushes full of that green mix and added a couple of drops to make a heavy glaze. I used this the same way I would do a regular glaze, making sure to dab off most of the moisture onto a paper towel, and then I used it in a circular area around the lightsource. I extended it a little bit further on parts where the metallic was meant to be shiny because a metallic surface would very much reflect a colourful lightsource like that. So you'll see that I put some on the sword and even down his legs and a touch on the foot that he has extended. Because that was a glaze, it dulled down the original strong points that I made on the surfaces closest to the lightsource, so I went back in with straight Moth Green and touched just the edges of the closest surfaces. It's not perfect OSL by any means, but I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out, especially since it just kinda happened.......does that sort of thing happen to y'all or am I just especially weird?
  45. 18 points
    Hey everyone! My name is Ben. I am a longtime modeler and diorama builder...but I've always worked in 1:8 and 1:6 scale...I am working on my very first true miniature now. I chose one from Reaper's Dark Heaven Legends line-02119: Knight Templar (http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/knight templar/sku-down/02119)...I've actually done some more work on this but I need to take more pictures...here's what I had as of yesterday...I realize it's not great, but I don't expect my first minis will be...anyway...very glad to be here! Thanks Ben
  46. 17 points
    Miniatures from the Vast boardgame miniatures expansion. Last pic are mini's from the Vast : The Fearsome Foes expansion. For more info, see GeekDad's Vast Miniatures review!
  47. 17 points
    The Skorchas are a smallish buggy like vehicle that doesn't have a model, so I cut down a couple trukks and made my own. The Battlewagon is pretty much stock kit, except I am adding a base (which isn't done yet). Skorchas:
  48. 17 points
    Sometime last year I showed off a garage kit that I picked up. It has been gathering dust since, but recently I did a little more prep work on it and primed the head. Now I know a lot of times you'll see these kits given a sold coat of paint and not much else, but I've decided to approach it much like a smaller scale figure. First, some skin. I just blocked things in and then did a little smoothing on the upper right. I"m not too worried about the sides of her face because once she has the rest of her hair it won't really be visible. Still, while it's off I'll go ahead and give myself some practice working at this scale. Then tonight I spent more time fighting my wet pallet than actually painting. The consistency got off and now I need to go back a fix some blends. In the meantime I used my well pallet and blocked in her eyes. Next paint session I'll clean them up and decide what direction she's looking.
  49. 17 points
    Howdy, Beyond the oasis, towards the green glow.... I can read a map, Kev!
  50. 17 points
    Picked up some more of these. I really like them especially the camel.