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About ecs05norway

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  1. I've done a good bit of digital sculpture myself -- spaceship miniatures, nothing organic or humanoid -- and I find it quite pleasant to work with, if you can get a tool that works well with your design paradigm. I like the precision it affords -- "draw a 1mm-radius cylinder 7mm long at a 45-degree angle from HERE, tip it with a hemisphere and then stretch the hemisphere's length out by 50% to make it a little conical, then bulge out a segment of the cylinder for one-quarter of its circumference by half a millimeter from the 3rd to the 5th millimeter of its length..." Stuff like that. Makes it easy to be symmetrical, which is useful, and to keep parts like gun turrets and engine mounts that should be identical from one position to the next to be exactly that.
  2. Yeah, I'm getting similar results from it, myself. Disappointing. It gives me -something-, though, even if I have to go in and add them all manually. Which only took me about a half hour for the 'immediate access' kit next to my workbench.
  3. Has anyone here used an iOS app called "PaintPot"? It appears to offer similar functionality and has a wide range of series available.
  4. Funded

    Is there any chance of a repeat of those utterly wonderful mini cases that were done with Bones 1?
  5. Hmm, I'd like to see, perhaps, some characters from anime like Sword Art Online, Log Horizon, or the like. (I'd really love to see some from Magical Girl Lyrical Nanoha.)
  6. Don't have any on hand except green stuff, which gets 'spendy. I should check the local craft shops for some air-dry stuff, I guess.
  7. Good thing I asked now instead of later. Gonna take some dead sprue and test it, see what happens.
  8. So I'm working on some terrain items from PlastiCraft - some of their Malifaux line, it's all 'foamed PVC' sheets that are fairly easy to work with. But not exactly cut perfectly to measure. So I want to fill in the voids and make a few mods myself. Which brings me to the question. I'm planning to use polymer clay (Sculpey, Fimo, etc) for a filler/mod material. Which needs to be cured at around 270 degrees F. How will the plastic hold up to this kind of heat? Is there an easier way to cure the clay than sticking the whole thing in the oven? Thanks!
  9. As has been said, take it slow and in many small steps. This lets the stress dissipate through the metal instead of building up at the point of the bend (and thus breaking the model). If it's big enough you can just break it and pin it, but I prefer not to bother with that. :)
  10. The learning process continues. Side by side shots with #1 and #2.
  11. Got some progress on this while at work Friday. The khaki is done, the green is halfway, and the red is basecoated. So far I'm using MSP's, MSPHD's, or P3's, typically mixed about 2:1 with water, for the layers.
  12. I'm working on another piece from the set, just basecoated it. I'll give that a try.
  13. Hmmm. For me... I usually try to get a basecoat, at least some drybrushing, and a little detail work. I started working on layering recently because I'm getting into Infinity and back into Malifaux, and I feel the minis deserve the effort. So there I go basecoat, midtone, highlight, maybe higher highlight, and a wash. My primary definition is "I wouldn't feel embarassed to set this army down across from someone like Froggy, but I'm not entering it into any painting contests, either.".
  14. The transitions are a little rough, and don't seem to work well from this angle.
  15. Yeah, I could. This is just a practice piece, and I'm still not really liking the transitions on the helmet. Got to learn a better way to deal with those tiny little flaps and such. Suggestions from the experts are welcome, although I'm far from ready to try wet-blending.