ecs05norway

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About ecs05norway

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  1. Don't have any on hand except green stuff, which gets 'spendy. I should check the local craft shops for some air-dry stuff, I guess.
  2. Good thing I asked now instead of later. Gonna take some dead sprue and test it, see what happens.
  3. So I'm working on some terrain items from PlastiCraft - some of their Malifaux line, it's all 'foamed PVC' sheets that are fairly easy to work with. But not exactly cut perfectly to measure. So I want to fill in the voids and make a few mods myself. Which brings me to the question. I'm planning to use polymer clay (Sculpey, Fimo, etc) for a filler/mod material. Which needs to be cured at around 270 degrees F. How will the plastic hold up to this kind of heat? Is there an easier way to cure the clay than sticking the whole thing in the oven? Thanks!
  4. As has been said, take it slow and in many small steps. This lets the stress dissipate through the metal instead of building up at the point of the bend (and thus breaking the model). If it's big enough you can just break it and pin it, but I prefer not to bother with that. :)
  5. The learning process continues. Side by side shots with #1 and #2.
  6. Got some progress on this while at work Friday. The khaki is done, the green is halfway, and the red is basecoated. So far I'm using MSP's, MSPHD's, or P3's, typically mixed about 2:1 with water, for the layers.
  7. I'm working on another piece from the set, just basecoated it. I'll give that a try.
  8. Hmmm. For me... I usually try to get a basecoat, at least some drybrushing, and a little detail work. I started working on layering recently because I'm getting into Infinity and back into Malifaux, and I feel the minis deserve the effort. So there I go basecoat, midtone, highlight, maybe higher highlight, and a wash. My primary definition is "I wouldn't feel embarassed to set this army down across from someone like Froggy, but I'm not entering it into any painting contests, either.".
  9. The transitions are a little rough, and don't seem to work well from this angle.
  10. Yeah, I could. This is just a practice piece, and I'm still not really liking the transitions on the helmet. Got to learn a better way to deal with those tiny little flaps and such. Suggestions from the experts are welcome, although I'm far from ready to try wet-blending.
  11. Somewhat better picture:
  12. So, I've started working on layering and such as a highlight technique, instead of just giving it a drybrush and hoping for the best. This is my first practice run:
  13. *le sigh* My FLGS carries the entire line of Citadel, P3, and Vallejo... but won't carry Reaper paints. I picked up a few of these elsewhere, though, and I'm really liking them. Dragon Red is gorgeous, and the greens.... ahh, how delicious. I do need to finish off the blue triad I picked up, though, they didn't have the entire set....
  14. Looks great, dude. What minis are those?
  15. Historical ninja "invisibility" was more about blending in with the local peasantry anyway. The 'black suit' bit was a bit of drama from the 19th century - it's actually what kabuki stagehands wore. By convention, they were ignored by the audience, thus 'invisible'... so a playwright of the era had a group of actors playing ninja dress like them and join the stagehands for the play until it was time for 'ninja attack scene'.