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Loxosceles

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About Loxosceles

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  1. Five Bones A Day for 30 days! (Completed!)

    C'mon, now. No need to shout at me.
  2. Hobby Report - First and Best (so far)! [Group/Open]

    I haven't got any photos of things I painted when I first got into the hobby, but I stopped trying for about fifteen years, until the first Bones kickstarter launched. I've got some... disadvantages... when it comes to painting. My eyesight is about as bad as it can get while still existing. I don't have anywhere near the time I'd like to paint as often as I'd like to for practice and growth, so I often find I am re-learning things every time I don't get to try for a month or more. But that Bones kickstarter, and Bones in general, provided minis that are inexpensive enough that I didn't feel like I was ruining them by trying. It's made a monumental difference in ability. I'm probably never going to be able to paint things as well as some of the folks here- the talent, creativity, and dedication of some of the Reaper forum regulars is amazing, but I'm not embarrassed to put something I painted on a table anymore. Which I tend to regard as a really great thing, not everyone will be good at this, but everyone can be better than they are when they start. I'm always impressed by those of you who can paint something that's professional quality... but there's a lot of room for satisfaction for everyone who may never get there, too. These aren't my first minis... or my last... but last year I grabbed a couple Bones models so I could re-paint a couple of them from the first Kickstarter, for comparison. To take a look at my progress against something other than the front page of cool mini or not's entrants.
  3. Steel Wash

    Has anyone else had any issues combining the Reaper Steel Wash with a Reaper brush on sealer (or any other sealer, or no sealer at all)? I picked up a bottle of the Steel Wash through the Bones 3 Kickstarter, and tried it out for the first time on this guy. It was applied over areas that had a previous layer of Honed Steel. The result was a very matte gunmetal kind of coloration, as seen in the more vibrant of the attached photos. I took a few photos of the mini before sealing (usually slightly less glossy), and then promptly used the brush on sealer as I usually do. Everything I had applied in the more vibrant photo was dry to the touch, and had sat for about thirty minutes before I applied the sealer. I hadn't used any drying extenders, flow improvers or anything other than Reaper MSP paints, washes and sealers, straight from the bottle. The timing of everything was in-line with my usual habits and practices that do not provoke this effect. The bottle of sealant was subsequently used for other minis, and had the usual results when it comes to almost imperceptible discoloration and glossiness. I do usually start by applying brush-on sealer across any broad surfaces I expect the mini would be handled by during tabletop use- so the Steel Washed massive sword, shield, and shoulders were some of the first surfaces that the brush I was using to apply sealant came into contact with. Upon initial application of the sealer, everything appeared normal. This discoloration developed sometime between the sealer feeling dry to the touch (and the mini being moved to a shelf of other minis) and the next day, when I took another look at it. Before I start risking any other minis by setting up controls and testing it for myself, I figured I'd ask here... anyone else used the steel wash? Did you have any problems with it?
  4. Dragon sizes

    I think... there may be more than one answer to which would be "best," and that it depends on what you prioritize for your game-play. If the miniature combat angle is a priority, go for one of the smaller models- like the Pathfinder Red. The three inches that a monster is given on a combat grid-map is the space that creature controls while fighting, and you won't have as many issues with overhang. Using a model that has a three inch wide broccoli base, for a dragon, usually means wings, tails, and heads sticking out well past that space, and potentially creating minor issues with mini placement and spacing. Especially if you're using heroic scale player minis, which often have a little bit of an issue staying inside a 1" square themselves, with weapons and cloaks and dynamic poses sometimes keeping them from lining up neatly.. If the atmosphere of the intended combat is a priority, go as big as is reasonable, and just rely on players to know which squares everything is occupying, even if the edges have some overhang. The impression of danger from that kind of encounter is magnified by a miniature that overshadows those used for the PCs. The Pathfinder Red is an awesome sculpt, but it cannot compare to the visual of a dragon that looks like it could swallow the adventurers without stopping to chew. The only problem with this choice is that you slightly limit your ability to keep going bigger, if they should run into any dragons that are even older in the future.
  5. It is possible that these questions would be better off in a different subforum; this just seemed to contain the most generalized advice. I am considering a project that uses a large Bones model as terrain, or a base, for smaller minis. Specifically taking Khanjira and covering him with an entire Goblin raiding party. Mostly on his shoulders, back, and head, with the oddball extra running along underneath or hanging off his tail. I was thinking of trying Neodymium magnets to secure the goblins to Khanjira, making them removable (should I want to use/display him without the horde or vise versa). I have not used them in this fashion before, though- and was hoping someone else had, and might be able to offer some suggestions or advice.. Or at least for a couple more heads to give my rough idea a once-over for any major flaws or impediments. So... tentative plan... Pre-project- Plan the positioning of the minis to be used, trim away bases, trim or file surfaces for good contact as needed. Measure and mark everything. Step 1- Use an electric drill to create small holes in the miniatures wherever I'd like them to be attracted. The magnets I picked up seem to attract one another reasonably well from a distance of about 5-6 mm, so I am anticipating shallow holes and placing the surface of the magnet about 0.5 mm to 1 mm deep (or ~1 mm to 2 mm apart when completed). Hopefully this will be strong enough to hold the small weight of the (goblin-sized) Bones sculpts in place. Some very inexact experimentation testing the attraction through broccoli bases suggests it'll be alright. Step 2- Use a dab of Superglue (other suggestions for adhesives?) and insert the magnets into the models. Step 3- Fill the exposed hole above the surface of the magnet with... more superglue? Minescule amounts of green stuff? A drop of Reaper brush-on-sealer? To create an even surface, for painting and to reduce the visibility of the magnets/drill marks when the goblins are not on Khanjira. Vitally, something that will keep the magnets where they are supposed to be without either of the plugs pulling away when one miniature is moved away from the other. Step 4- Paint and seal everything for tabletop use. I'd like to avoid destroying too many of my materials in the process; I'll be using about eighty dollars worth of minis in the attempt and would rather give it some forethought and get it right than have to buy three or four World Breakers before it works. I'm pretty sure I'm going to ruin a few goblins before I get a set I like... but I have a pretty good number of them on-hand as replacements if it goes disastrously. Any thoughts, suggestions, advice, criticism, experiences, or any other responses are all something for which I'd be very grateful. I've been chopping up Bones with an X-Acto knife and gluing them together since the first Kickstarter arrived, but the magnets are new to me and I'm pretty sure some of you exceedingly clever people have already done what I'm contemplating.
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