Willen

House Figmentius
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Willen last won the day on February 25 2014

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About Willen

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    Brush Snob
  • Birthday 07/12/81

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    La Plata - Argentina
  • Interests
    Tabletop RPGs, art, painting, computers... and aircraft.

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  1. Your observations are right but you are confusing propierties of different "chemicals" and how they react. Of course a film of water, or a heavily dilluted paint, will settle on a surface different than an acrylic medium film! They are just different things. Also each pigment is different and, brace for this... there are quite a few different acrylic mediums out there! That is why, for example, mixing alcohol with Vallejo Model Color is a big no-no for airbrushing, but it is perfectly fine for Tamiya acrylics or Reapers! Anything you add to paint (except the same paint) will affect consistency, viscosity and flow. The trick is finding something that you are comfortable with, and that you can integrate into your painting methods. I am not even talking about shine , gloss or matte propierties which are merely an effect of the surface termination of the paint film (as Doug said, particles in the matte films disrupt the surface and scatter light, versus gloss films bouncing light back at the viewer. This is why you polish stuff to make it bright and not "dull"). So finish is an enterily different property of different mediums. Rule of thumb: - Paint separating, usually you have dilluted it with water too much and an acrylic medium would be better than water, because it can keep it more "cohesive". It will also make it more transparent. - Paint not seeping into recesses and you want it to? It needs something to lower its surface tension. Flow improvers or alcohol are good in good doses. - Paint not flowing off the brush? Usually it is too thick. Water is the best first thing to try. If you reach the paint where it flows but "breaks" (I test this on my fingernail, this is when it flows well but the stroke leaves like little clumps behind), then I go back to the first bullet. If you need to increase flow BUT preserve opacity, then try a bit of the second bullet. There is not a lot more than that TBH. I have dozens of paint additives and most of them, 99% of the time, are not required. Most airbrush mediums are watered down alcohols, some acrylic medium (if it was designed for acrylics) and flow improver. Tamiya Airbrush medium is water + IPA, plainly, and it was even labeled as such. I did research on the Vallejo airbrush thinner and it is acrylic medium, an organic alcohol used in foodstuff (I don't recall the name now) and water. That is why you should always wear a mask when spraying (looks like I am finding an excuse to push safety in every thread lately!).
  2. Medium does not "thin" the paint to watery level, because it is not water, saying it simple. Imagine something you can dissolve in water, like... IDK, any ready-made mix (pancakes comes to mind in the US). The more water you add, the more "watery" it feels because the purely liquid element is more relevant. With paint it is the same. The medium is already there and it is more fluid than the actual paint pigments in suspention. If you add more medium, you reduce the proportion of pigments so you approach the fluid state of the medium. Not quite water, but that depends on the medium used (there are gel-like mate mediums, for example, and I would not call Liquitex fluid matte medium particularly "watery"). The advantage to water is that medium contains the acrylic resin that forms the film, so it is essentially similar to the paint you are dilluting. So you are making it more... transparent, and more fluid IF the medium is more fluid than your paint. You can also thin down the medium a bit, the acrylic resin can take quite a bit of water before it breaks consistency, that is why we usually just use some water to thin down paints. Metallic pigments are so much denser than the usual paint pigments that the "fall" off suspension much easier. I am not really sure you want to fight "stickness" with pure medium, because you will suffer on the coverage side (remember, you are making it more transparent since the amount of pigment per stroke will be less, you added more transparent stuff!). If you don't mind buying stuff, I would go with Gloss Medium, but to try it out matte medium would not hurt one bit. If you are looking to make it flow better you need to try a flow improver, something that would break down surface tension. There are specific products for that kind of thing; if you are into testing "new" stuff you can do that too with plain rubbing alcohol (just mix a 50:50 alcohol-water batch and add a few drops to test). This will make the paint level off once applied on the surface. Future Floor polish is another household test to make, this one will help retain the gloss too. The above is not strictly technical or accurate, I reckon, I am just trying to get a few ideas out in a simple way. If you want the actual science stuff behind my suggestions, I can do it but I think this post is long enough already
  3. Some medium is usually used. This is recurrent common question, the Search tool (up and to your right) is your best friend for this one, you can find a LOT of info.
  4. The "old" BB used to be played quite a bit at home, when we didn't want to take hours playing Mordheim. Since we had no access to minis, we built our own field and played with beer caps LOL. I got the new game, plus a Dwarves Team, and got my wife interested in it enough that now I am assembling a Necromantic Team out of Bones! I just wished there was a way to get the new bases individually, grrr! Painting my Reavers now, and also the Dwarves... and the Orks are primed as well.
  5. Word of warning here, that thread is OLD (there have been a lot of recent discussions on airbrushing here lately, just use the search tool). The recommendations of using alcohol in the airbrush and windex are actually very bad for your health. Do not atomize alcohols! Wear a respirator in a well ventilated space. Take care of your lungs.
  6. I disagree here. Mine is one these high-end compressors, no tank, and shuts off when not in use automatically. Basically it detects system pressure and if it drops, it kicks in to hold it. When you press the trigger you generate a continous small drop of pressure as the air escapes and so it runs, but when you are not using it it will shut off. And for the first 6 months it stayed off when not in use but now... it does the same, kicks in for a second every couple minutes when not in use. I am sure it is a leak somewhere, especially because it did not do this when new. But I also added a lot of complexity in the line with the quick-connect, two water traps, etc... and I don't feel it is so important. My best bet is the gasket-less connection of the quick connect, but I have not tested it. As Rahz said the age-old bubble trick should tell you where you have the leak.
  7. Unless you are a backer. Then you get another new video today that is even more awesome.
  8. Have you tried doing this on a mini Pingo? It reminded me of something I once saw Ben Kometz do back before he went heavily into loaded brush for quick blends.
  9. Stuff like that? That is a big bust, but generally just draw a LOT of fine lines, then glaze, then re-draw (usually the other color, like lighter and dard), then glaze, until you like the effect. I have done it for some pieces but at 28mm, it is more useful just to think where it would be appropriate. For example, I am doing a stippling texture on my BloodBowl balls because that looks cool as leather, but doing that kinda texture for the pants, for example, would be overkill IMHO.
  10. Honestly, I looked at your Patreon because I was amazed at your early HandCannon Online posts and an old video series about 2BB. I am really happy about the content so far, keep it up.
  11. Sheez, getting back into the forums was worthy just for that quote, thanks Pingo! Going to my whatsapp status directly
  12. As someone that has been down that road, I agree with Pingo. Seeing @Tjrez other post about the brushes he uses, and my own experience, the main "problem" you might be trying to solve is actually fluidity of the paint off the brush... when the brush is too small for that. Switch to a larger brush and use just water, a bit of improver if you want as a crutch. But when you have a good quality brush with a decent belly holding humidity, you can suddenly understand why so many top painters use only water and get "magical" effects on blending and etc. At least, that was my own experience. YMMV.
  13. The bigger the better. I was enjoying a sharp #3 Rosemary yesterday, for example, and it could get to the smallest places while holding a LOT of thin paint on it. The attached dwarf's face was painted with a #1. I think I might have grabbed the #0 occasionaly if it was close, but the tip of my Windsors and mostly the same for those two, so I don't really care. I must admit that after a year they have lost a bit of the tip but they are still miles better than using a 3/0, for example... I don't know how I did use those at one point, so little hair paint dries on you immediately.
  14. I brought this up in the Patreon comments, but I think doing something not-Warmahordes would be amazing. For example, do some promotion along with Hasslefree and teach skin colors and variation on a naked dude and dudette. I think that would be a little more interesting from the "theory" POV, but I don't know if it would help with the more "wargamming" crowd, so... pros and cons. Perhaps also show how nice and quick results can also be achieved for those armies with a lot of flesh... stuff like sketching or zenital priming + washing.
  15. One of my few Patreons. I am a bit behind in watching but Ghool is very informative, every time.