House Figmentius
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Willen last won the day on February 25 2014

Willen had the most liked content!

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About Willen

  • Rank
    Brush Snob
  • Birthday 07/12/81

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  • Gender
  • Location
    La Plata - Argentina
  • Interests
    Tabletop RPGs, art, painting, computers... and aircraft.

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  1. You can basically do that with the color tool and the "equivalencies" at the bottom; which will also show if you have the paint or not (full/empty circle). Sure, it is not in the actual paint description "page", but that would be adding clutter IMHO.
  2. How is people doing? Mine is done and waiting for good pics.
  3. Guilty of not being around more, rest assured I still appreciate all the good wishes and warm friendship guys and gals. Thanks. Unfortunately the world has decided I need to work HARD today, since like every little thing that has been cooking around the office is reaching boiling point... today. So I have been non-stop dedicated to what keeps me fed, warm and buying minis
  4. 2 hrs later... did you find it? Are you batch scanning 20 paints? :)
  5. The Rapid Scan option in the Menu is just for that, batch scanning of paints... have you tried it?
  6. 1.- Try first with no aditives unless you live in a very dry place and your paint dries too fast, which brings me to number 2... 2.- Test it by NOT thinning your paint, or just a bit. Thicker paint takes more to dry and can be mixed on the mini, which is what you want. Also, thin layers of watery paint cannot be mixed, there is very little pigment left! Best approach I have seen so far: solid layer color A. One biggish brush color A, another brush color B. Apply color A, then B, then use the two brushes with color to go back and forth on the transition.
  7. Primers and varnishes are not in the app. It is pretty great to catalogue the paints and avoid double or triple buying. I have tried to get used to saving sets too but with little success so far... but I neither keep a log so perhaps it is me (it most surely is me).
  8. Mmm... perhaps (if not possible to "share data") kind of a "Wish List" export feature that allows us to email somebody our current wishlist for paints? A list with Manufacturer, Name and SKU for example? Yes, it would not be an automated update into another person, but useful to let other people know what you want or are missing, which I think is what you are suggesting.
  9. Some of us can use all the help we can get
  10. That snow is amazing looking... I can't get mine to look well when dry. I never had a Bones turned tacky by simple using paint on it... did you seal it? Perhaps it was the sealer if it was fine first and tacky later? I guess the question is the age-old... what happened between it being fine and being tacky?
  11. Zenital priming is my way of life, now. It has several effects (on me, YMMV): - Acrylics are always a bit transparent, even in thin coats. You know that a yellow will take forever to cover on a black undercoat and never look truly bright? Ok, this is the technical aspect of zenital priming; even if you don't realize it gives a darker hue to the areas that are pitch black, and a more vibrant hue to the top areas. - Helps define volumes. When you are only doing one part, it is easy to misjudge volumes and contrast if the rest of the mini is a flat black, white or grey. With zenital priming you are always aware of the general shapes even in unfinished parts, or parts you didn't start yet! - Helps me imagine the mini. While I look at it, just primed, I am already aware of light and dark areas, and can start painting picturing a guideline, even if then obscured by the basecoats. Also, go strong on it. For the above to work well, IMHO, the dark needs to be real black, and you need to go pure strong white on the focus area. I typically prime with airbrush and do: - Pure black - 50:50 mix, 45 degrees from the top, all around. - Add some more white, 45 degrees only the from side (because I like my backs to be darker and draw the eye less). - Pure white, focus zone. Usually the face, unless I am doing OSL or some light trick. Hope this helps!
  12. I really like it. Just for your reference, if you pushed the contrast a bit more it would look like this: I darkened the area between the eyebrows and the eyes, the top of the nose bridge and below the lips. The cheek crease and below the nose area as well. Then I re-highlighted and pushed forehead, below the eyes, top of the lip, nose and chin. Added a hint of red to cheeks, sides of the nose and under the tip of the nose. Sorry for the pic, I just thought that my initial suggestions would look better in a graphical way :) I struggled a lot at the beginning trying to understand where to push the contrast on a face!
  13. Have you seen this familiar? https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Familiar/sku-down/60147 Not really "female" as in "mamal features female". It is certainly a female plant, however :)
  14. Wow he is really nice! Re:lips. I feel they are a highlight area so you can't use a darker color on them! My quick and dirty method (that you see in baldy above) is to edge in dark the inside (my darkest skin shadow plus some black, usually), this step is usually just drawing a line for a mini like this. Then I mix a bit of a soft pink in my skin highlight (I use Old Rose from Vallejo Model color) and paint the lower lip. If I feel like the area is big enough I add some white and add reflection dots and/or stripes to the lip, but this is usually overkill for tabletop or 28mm. I don't know what paints you have available, but to get something like Old Rose you need a red that is not too saturated or strong, and add white. The goal is to get a pink that is like a slightly faded pink dress
  15. You are welcomed! I call the red tint my "secret" in painting flesh because most regular painters for tabletop would stop at just using some flesh paint recipe, and the simply tint gives it so much life in my eyes. Can't wait to see what you do with the mini... it was some lovely areas to apply this coloring ideas.