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Everything posted by Heisler

  1. I saw it at the Fox Theater in Boulder, magnificent old big screen theater up on "The Hill" the balcony was even open for every showing I went to that summer. I did see it the summer it was released but it wasn't among the first theaters to get it that year.
  2. Modern - Team Yankee (Battlefront), Combined Arms (GDW/OOP), Force on Force (Ambush Alley Games) WWII - Test of Battle, Command Decision (Test of Battle Games), Flames of War (Battlefront), Chain of Command (Two Fat Lardies) WWI - Through the Mud and Blood (Two Fat Lardies), Chain of Command WWI (Two Fat Lardies), The Great War (Warhammer Historical/OOP) ACW - Fire and Fury Brigade level (Fire and Fury Games), Fire and Fury Regimental level (Fire and Fury Games), Picket's Charge (Two Fat Lardies) AWI - Guns of Liberty (Private Publication) Wild West - Shoot and Skeddale (Private Publication), Fistful of Lead Reloaded (Private Publication)
  3. That is a day trip for those of us in the west!
  4. Some day I'll get back up there.
  5. Thank you all, I appreciate the thoughtfulness. I'm not much of a math person (although I do know what delta is). You are still older than me Doug!
  6. Effective May 2015 the CMPA is moving to the 3rd Saturday of each month. We will be meeting at Total Escape Games in Broomfield CO. The address is: 6831 120th Ave, Broomfield, CO 80020 3rd Saturday Dates: 5/16, 6/20, 7/18, 8/15, 9/19, 10/17, 11/21, 12/19 and 1/16/2016 There is an event calendar on our website: http://cominipainters.com/ and on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ColoradoMiniaturePaintersAlliance
  7. While this isn't the best forum for Historical miniatures this one is nice enough that there might be some interest from the crowd on this one.
  8. There are probably at least half a dozen topics on wet palettes in the last 12 months.
  9. Half-Track

    Bolt Action is designed for 28mm, yes. However, like any set of miniature rules you can adjust it to any scale. One of the easiest is to convert inches to Centimeters and play it in 15mm. To be clear if the measurement is 6" for 28mm just substitute 6cm for 15mm. You might try editing the white balance on the picture to bring the color closer to what it should be.
  10. Half-Track

    I would hit that with at least a pin wash of Dark Umber (I personally avoid black as I feel its to stark looking). The wash will help the details pop, but keep in controlled, don't liberally douse the whole thing. I'm not sure what you are going for with what looks like white in the picture. While nothing is truly wrong when doing camo, white would certainly be unusual. A dark yellow would be more appropriate, but as I say nothing is truly "wrong". Here is Glen's WIP on his STuG III: Glen's showoff; And some other finished vehicles:
  11. And if you are a veteran and not using USAA then its well worth looking into. If you father or mother was a veteran and had USAA you would also qualify.
  12. I know there was one of these some where in the forums; a compendium of the numerous airbrush topics.
  13. He is using a tankless compressor. You can expect the compressor to run continuously while you are spraying paint., It should only shut down when you release the trigger (that also depends on the compressor) the higher end tankless compressors, like my Iwata, do shut down when you aren't spraying, lower end models will run continously. I really don't think you have a leak.
  14. So the pressure doesn't drop when you star airbrushing? Why is your PSI set so high?
  15. Great work Glen! Tried a few of your techniques on my latest armor. Always good to add some new techniques to the arsenal. I know I will have some entries for ordnance this year, just refining my work now.
  16. These are technically 1/56th scale which most of the historical manufacturers have finally settled on as the proper scale for 28mm miniatures. My western town of Calamity is also being built to this scale.
  17. I have been working on these off and on since December. I just don't have enough time to paint anymore and a couple of other projects ended up taking priority. The two half tracked vehicles are the Pak 40 Auf S307(f) and the fully tracked vehicle with the big gun is a Geschutzwagen 39H(f). These vehicles are from the 21st Panzer Division during the Normandy invasion. At the time the 21st was critically short of armored vehicles so Alfred Becker setup a workshop and lead the team that converted the captured French armor. On the halftrack vehicles the designation indicates that it is equipped with the German 75mm anti-tank gun mounted on an S307 halftrack with the "(f)" indicating that it is French based. The same applies to the 39H(f), a vehicle based on the hull of a French 39H tank. If you are interested in the process here are links back to my blog that follow the whole project from start to finish. http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2016/12/assembling-wwii-german-armor-from.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/01/assembling-wwii-german-armor-from.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/01/madbobs-miniatures-prepping-time-with.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/01/madbobs-miniatures-evening-of-priming.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/01/madbobs-miniatures-evening-of-yellow.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/01/madbobs-miniatures-getting-on-with-camo.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/02/madbobs-miniatures-filters-washes-and.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/02/madbobs-miniatures-some-paint-and-decals.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/04/world-war-ii-project-return-to-mad-bobs.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/05/world-war-ii-project-german-armor-mad.html http://wargamesandrailroads.blogspot.com/2017/05/world-war-ii-project-german-armor-mad_11.html
  18. Yes, it would help a lot if you told us wha compressor model you were using. I don't have a tank so mine basically operates continuously. I don't adjust the pressure until I pull the trigger as that's the actual PSI I will be working at. If it is leaking and you don't want to do the soap bubble trick you can submerge the line in water and check for air bubbles. Otherwise I'm with Glen and it's likely to be a seal inside the airbrush. Are you noticing any decreases in the airflow while painting?
  19. Hairspray is often used, the classic method as it were, for doing chipping on military and railroad models because it is water soluable. You usually start with the color you want to show through as your first layer, let that dry (I usually go 24 hours, even with acrylics, it must thoroughly cure). Then apply the hairspray, let that dry then apply your topcoat of paint. Let that dry but not to long, then poke and brush at it with a brush loaded with water. There are chipping fluids out there now that make this easier and more controllable. So sealing with hairspray is right out in my opinion.
  20. Oh and I forgot to mention that I still use Napoleon's Battles for the Napoleonic period. Still undecided on a good set for AWI and FIW.
  21. There are couple of things to think about. At the scale we are usually working with you can't really see the texture of cloth. That being said, stippling will work to recreate that texture but you need to use thicker paint to do it. The stippling I'm used to doing though is with enamels and it's used to get rid of brush strokes on my carousel horses, although it does leave a texture behind. There is a book from Wargamers Foundry by Kevin Dallimore, (vol 2) that goes into painting textures on cloth. Unfortunately my copy is packed up.
  22. SAGA is a good game, but I would put it more into the tournament style of historical gaming. The armies are very abstract, in other words its designed to be fast play game with historical elements rather than try and recreate actual historical forces. The Warhammer Historical games (all of which are OOP) are a step up from this. Again I would probably lean back to Dux Britanniarum for more historical look at the period the SAGA roughly (very roughly) covers.
  23. There are a number of ways to accomplish. the one I use is pretty close to what you just described. You can start at either the darkest shadow, the mid tone or the highlight. You work you were up or down by lightening or darkening the color depending on what you are doing. You can use glazes to help blend the layers together (this is typically called layering although I have heard it referred to in other ways as well). My glaze is typically made from my darkest color and is mostly water. I can load my brush with it and drag it along a piece of white paper or towel and just barely see the color. I usually apply this in a controlled manner rather than just covering the entire cloak (or whatever) with it depending on the affect I want to achieve.
  24. Taking a quick look, I think you need to darken up the shadows more (tight, controlled washes will work here) and probably bring the highlights at the highest points up another notch or two. While drybrushing is a great technique and has its place in your arsenal you should work on painting your way up to the highlights rather than drybrushing as you did here.
  25. It is not set up for solo play. Almost any rule set can be used solo, there are a couple of solo sets that you just plug your rules into out there.