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About igelkott

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  1. If you follow the link I have in the first post you can see how I magnetized the parts. I put steel rod into the pillars and magnets in the fences and it's quite stable. As you can see in the picture above, during the game I had a mini jump onto a pillar and it had no trouble staying up.
  2. Here are some pics of the fencing in use during a game of Deadzone:
  3. I finished painting my cemetery fences from the reaper 3 kickstarter. I painted them up generally following the same approach as my dwarven forge dungeon tiles. Here's how I painted them: - I primed the pieces with krylon black camo primer - I then painted on a heavy drybrush of Pokorny Base Grey on all the stone parts - I then picked out some of hte stones with Pokorny Earth Stone - I then did a light drybrush with Pokorny Olive Dry Brush - I then mixed together Pokorny Base Grey and Pokorny Stone Edge Dry Brush and did a very light dry brush - Now I worked on the metal - I painted the barts with Americana Ebony Black - I then drybrushed the upper sections of the bars only with Americana Midnight Blue to provide a little color variation - I then did a light drybrush of the bars with Pokorny Base Grey, followed by a similar mix of Base Grey and Stone Edge Dry Brush - I then did an overall wash with Agrax Earthshade I then sprayed them with Testor's Dullcote. It was a quick paint job and should look good when I use them for terrain in my upcoming Deadzone game. BTW I had previously magnetized these and you can see the howto I wrote up here: Here are a couple of pictures of the finished fences.
  4. I wanted to use the cemetery fencing as terrain in wargames, and I wanted to be able to configure the fences any way I wanted, so I decided to try using magnets to hold the fencing together. I first had to decide on how to approach the problem. The straight sections were pretty simple... I could just drill into the ends and install magnets, with the polarity opposite on each end so they can be chained together. For the short sections with a flat on only one end I decided to do do half with one polarity and half with the other, so I would always have an option as to which to use. But for the columns, I had to think a bit. I didn't want to have magnets visible on the outside, and I couldn't figure out how to arrange the polarity so that it would maximize what arrangements would work. Finally I came up with the idea to simply install steel rods in the middle, and then they could attach to the straight sections with either polarity. The gate structure could also be done with steel rods. I measured things out and decided that 3/8" rod would work for the columns and for the inner posts of the gateway piece, and 1/4" rod for the outer portions of the gateway piece. So here's what I used for this: 1mmx6mm neodymium magnets (lots) 3/8" steel rod 1/4" steel rod Straight Sections These were pretty straightforward, except there wasn't a lot of room for the 6mm magnets. I had to make sure the holes were accurately placed. I usually use 1/4" drills for the 6mm magnets but because this was really tight I decided to use a 6mm drill. When I need to be accurate, I usually start with a tiny hole and use a pin vise to get the hole centered right. I then drill larger and larger holes. This is because with the larger drill bits, the drill often catches in the plastic and draws itself in, potentially ruining the piece. It works much better if I only take out a little bit of plastic each time. So here is a shortened sequence of the hole drilled (I actually used 8 drills of increasing size for each hole). Here is how it looked inside after drilling it out: And then I glued in the magnets with super glue. I decided to use 8 magnets in each end which is probably overkill but these magnets were pretty cheap... And here's how it looks from the end: Columns Now the Columns were a little tricky. Here's what I finally ended up doing. - I drilled down through the top with a 5/16" drill bit and went all the way through the bottom. This insures that the hole in the bottom is centered. I had to hold the column with pliers to keep from wrenching it out of my hand. I used leather to keep the jaws from marring the surface but cloth should work fine. - I enlarged the hole in the base with a 3/8" drill bit. This was really tricky since as I said before, with large bits the drill tends to catch in the plastic and draw itself in so this must be done with care. What I ended up doing was to drill in just a little bit, then reverse the drill and repeat, doing this several times. This way the drill bit would only carve out small sections of plastic at a time, then when the drill was reversed that divot of plastic would break off. Then when it goes forward again, it would take out a new piece of plastic, etc. I have a cordless VSR drill that I use for this that has really good slow speed control. I wouldn't try to do this with a power drill that didn't have good slow speed control. I only needed to drill in about 1/2"-3/4" deep. - I cut a 1/4" long piece of the 3/8" steel rod. I used a file to clean up the burrs, otherwise it would be much harder to get into the column. - I forced the piece of steel in the hole in the bottom of the column. I had to inset the steel piece about 2mm to get the pieces to sit correctly. If the steel is in too far, the straight section will not sit evenly on the table. If it isn't inset far enough, then the column won't sit evenly on the table. Gateway This also was a little tricky. I had to drill out through the bottom with a 1/4" drill and a 3/8" drill. Here's how it ends up looking: Again, I had to adjust the depth to get the straight sections to sit flat on the table. I didn't bother gluing the steel pieces in for the columns or the gateway since they were pretty tight fits. Here are all the pieces with steel installed: So now I can configure the fencing in many different ways, and it's resistant to accidental bumps. Here are a couple of configurations: I'm leaving the columns with open tops for now since someday we'll get cool new tops with Reaper 4. I hope this is helpful!
  5. Hmmm, I guess I was going by where the faceplate is on the original. Now that I look at it again, the faceplate is pretty low, about even with the shoulders. If I think of the helmet as being more of a collar, then the mousling head does seem to work ok. I guess it's all in how you look at it.....
  6. Here's an experiment. Unfortunately it looks like the mousling head is a little too big: Here's a goblin head. This looks a little better. I think I could carve out the socket a bit more and it will look better.
  7. I always listen to the Dice Tower: http://dicetower.coolstuffinc.com/ and sometimes find the Ludology podcast interesting: http://ludology.libsyn.com/ I also listen regularly to the Econtalk podcast: http://www.econtalk.org/ While they always have an economic perspective, they cover a wide range of topics. And I've also borrowed a lot of audiobooks from the local library system. Ours has an online search and reservation system and there are a large number of libraries in the local loan network.
  8. I'm getting the Space Mouslings from KS3 and was thinking of using them for a scifi skirmish miniatures game. To do that I need to generate stats for the figures to adapt them to the game. Is there any background material (art, stories, game materials) around for any of the mouslings to help flesh them out?
  9. I also played 2.0 for the first time this weekend. I enjoyed it. I played twice, each time with an Orc squad - 1 Captain, 3 commandos, 2 goblin snipers and 1 mawbeast. I won both games against dwarves for the first game and veermyn for the second game. My snipers were doing a lot of damage, at least until the Veermyn started targeting them. I think the simpler ruleset is better for me in the long run since I don't play a lot and trying to remember all the little details of the previous version was inhibiting bringing out the game more often.
  10. Yeah... the real VW Bus is just a tad over 6' high, so the miniature should be almost as tall as the vehicle, but that mini is much smaller than the bus you have.
  11. I've been using the Krylon camo primers and they work just fine on bones: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/67850-krylon-camo-primer-plastic-fusion-anyone-try-this-out/
  12. Oh, sorry.. didn't notice you had a link to the same video I posted..... LOL.... Here's a bones dragon I recently painted which I primed first with krylon back. The stuff works well on bones. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/67410-reaper-bones-and-heroscape/?p=1327529
  13. I have a couple cans and I've found it works well. Here's a review:
  14. Yeah, I finished my KS1&2 stuff last year... I have 4xKS1 and 2xKS2 + a bunch of addons. For KS3 I only got the cottage and some battlements but I haven't gotten to those yet. I really liked the pokorny method for this terrain, it works out well and is pretty easy (although time consuming due to shear volume). When I picked out stones, I did some with the earth stone then mixed in a little stone edge to lighten it a little and did a few more, just to vary things a little. I also painted my Dragons Don't Share ruined tower using the same paint scheme. I think it turned out well....
  15. LOL.... You know we're talking about Dr Who here... the longest running TV show in history?