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Rob Dean

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About Rob Dean

  • Rank
    Godlike
  • Birthday 03/26/1961

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  • Website URL
    http://sharpbrush.blogspot.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    Miniature Wargaming, historical and fantasy, roleplaying games

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  1. Spaceship toys. What primer to use?

    I’ve had some success with Krylon Fusion paints as base coats on random plastic.
  2. Getting to Know You, April 2018

    I’ve done pretty well on my goal of “no regets”. Having been around for as long as I have, I’ve bought a lot of stuff for which my plans later changed, and which therefore ended up on a flea market table, but generally, no regrets. I’ve probably regretted selling more things than I’ve regretted buying; there are a few things I’ve rebought more than once.
  3. Lazylathe's painting adventures...

    Loosely speaking, highlights on faces should go on like stage makeup, for much the same reasons...
  4. Dwarven army for Dragon Rampant

    Looking good so far. 24 point war bands, or are you planning something bigger?
  5. Lazylathe's painting adventures...

    I have the Reaper brush on sealer, which seems to work well enough. I prefer to spray things after the basing, though, because it helps hold the flock in place. These days, I generally use a Krylon low odor matte finish spray, which doesn’t seem to cause any problems with Bones and is fairly tolerant to humidity. I used to use the Kyrlon 1311 but they must have changed the formulation a few years ago, becuase it started frosting on me regularly. In no particular order, I often have the same problems with washes, so I have largely gotten away from using them. When necessary (textures like furs and chainmail respond well) I generally plan to paint the highlight areas again afterwards. I certainly use magnifiers; adopting the Optivisor ten years ago brought the pleasure back to painting. Paint thinning/drying issues will improve with practice. I just started using a wet palette a couple of years ago, which helps a lot. I also have a dropper bottle of water and a bottle of drying retarder to help out. Looking at your lines, your brush control is already pretty good; more practice will continue to make things easier. As far as projects go, one of the things about painting is to know when a figure is “done”. I am usually using things in tabletop wargames, so I know from experience that a lot of what I am doing in painting isn’t really visible in a game. So I could quit earlier. If you’re planning to hand them to friends to admire with a magnifier, “done” is going to be further along. But when you are aiming at something like this, you won’t really notice that the third private from the left in the second regiment back has some extra thick black-lining to clean up his belts... So I try to work backward from the final desired effect to get to the amount if work needed for the individual figure.
  6. Lazylathe's painting adventures...

    A sale? Now you’re in trouble. I’d recommend not buying too far ahead of painting until you are ready to commit to a ‘project’, but I don’t follow that advice very well myself. You’re off to an excellent start; any questions occurring as you did the goblins?
  7. Travel Painting, Rangers versus Orcs

    And a few more orcs. They are intended to be my Misty Mountain orcs command stand.
  8. Travel Paint Kit

    It’s been nearly a year and a half since I originally posted this. The kit is still making trips with me, including this weekend. Following the discussions here, I followed up on Gadgetman’s suggestion and got the travel sized brush soap. I have started regularly using Winsor Newton Series 7 brushes at home, and, as noted by Sylverthorne, they came in fairly sturdy plastic tubes. I have put a 1 and a 000 in the stuff sack. They are my first choice for brushes, being more easily replaceable in the event of damage than the Games and Gears brushes. I haven’t had any problems with brush damage from transport using the tubes. At Gencon last year I took a class on DIY wet palettes, so I replaced the coffee lids with this wet palette built from an antibacterial sponge and a crayon box from the school/stationery aisle at Walmart. I have a stock of wet palette paper, so I’ve been cutting it up and using it,having had some serious curling issues with the baking parchment. I keep a few extra sheets tucked in my pocket notebook, since I have a duplicate palette set up at work.
  9. My significant other is in a songing competition this weekend, and I’m along for moral support. Knowing that I would have some quiet time, I brought my travel paint kit and some miniatures. On the left are five Broadsword rangers, and on the right three Minifigs true orcs. The orcs are part of my Mythical Earth warbands project, but the Broadsword figures are a one-off. I didn’t have any Broadsword back in the day. Apparently none of the hobby shops I visited stocked them. My first encounter with them was in larger eBay lots while fishing for other old figures. I ended up with four of these archers in a large lot early in my eBay history, and then went looking for the command/personality pack later. I painted the swordsman/captain and the ranger-bard last summer. Now that they are almost all done, I hope to get them out as a unit of scouts in a Dragon Rampant game soon.
  10. Ah! thanks. I’ve read about that technique in model railroading magazines but haven’t tried it myself. Looks good!
  11. Wargames using reaper figs

    Oh? It’s still a good game; my kids were raised on it, so it’s in the position of being something of the family default fantasy game (though we still play in budget friendly 1/72 scale even though they are now out in the world with income). If you haven’t had it out lately, you should dust it off...
  12. Whatever else may happen, it won’t be a zero month; these foot knights in 1/72 got their varnish coat this morning:
  13. Getting to Know You, April 2018

    I do. I'm not as cartographically inclined as my sons, though. They've mastered the software necessary to do maps in a variety of styles, and hang out on an alternate history forum where the maps are handy illustrations. He's also done things like the map for our 18th century image-nations setting: I'm working on a campaign map done in archaic style for my pseudo-Byzantine miniatures setting, using the advice in Jared Blando's book on drawing fantasy maps. A test map I did this way last year; all pen and ink and cheap watercolors: I'm using this one as the setting of a solo miniatures campaign using my 1/72 scale plastic collection.
  14. Wargames using reaper figs

    So DW brings up a point here, which is that there are other genres than fantasy. .45 Adventures, for example, is a "pulp" game, so there are certainly enough Chronoscope and related figures to fill out a game, enough cowboys etc. to staff an Old West game, and enough science fiction figures to staff some larger SF skirmish games. But my question is whether you have any thoughts about the kind of game you want to play. Of the fantasy games recommended, I personally have, play, and enjoy at least Song of Blades and Heroes, Frostgrave, Ghost Archipelago (a Frostgrave variant, essentially), Dragon Rampant, and Hordes of the Things. Song and the two Frostgrave games are all "skirmish" games, using small numbers of figures representing single people/creatures/things, having weapons ranges and scenery which are somewhat in scale with the figures, and representing fairly short periods of time. They all default to a 3x3 table, although nothing keeps you from expanding if additional time and space are available. Hordes of the Things, on the other hand, is an abstracted ("zoomed out") mass battle game, where we might be representing an entire battle on a 3x3 foot table using 24 multiple figure stands of figures, each with 3-8 figures on it, each stand representing some abstract but large (1000?) number of warriors. With that, the scenery is similarly abstract, so that a large town might be represented by a couple of buildings on a 6" base, and a forest by a couple of trees on a similar base. Archery range might be 3" (80mm actually), which is about two man-heights compared to your figures. Dragon Rampant is somewhere in the middle. Each player might have 4-6 units of a dozen infantry or six cavalry, which are played as though they were individuals, but are abstract enough that the game feels ok if you visualize the units as companies of up to a hundred or so warriors. Weapons ranges are 12-18", time is abstracted, and you don't fight through the rooms of individual buildings. So picking them is a matter of taste, and is influenced by questions like : a) How much space can you find to play? b) Will you be able to play all day, or does a game need to fit in after dinner on a work night? c) How many figures do you expect to paint? (and, do you want to get started with the game when the first handfuls are done rather than waiting for more?) d) Big battles or desperate little skirmishes? (One can play around with bases so that figures can be used in more than one game in which base sizes are important...) e) Do you have other people around to play with, and what are they playing? (I'm lucky enough to be in a very flexible group with Chris Palmer of about 20 players; finding an opponent is seldom a problem.) In the long run, investments in figures and scenery pay off. Modeling can be used for multiple games, and can last for decades. I've got figures that have been in my forces for over 40 years, and a great bulk of them for 20 or more. Most of those have seen action in multiple rules sets at multiple battle scales (from roleplaying and skirmish up to mass battles). Rules are cheap by comparison, and trying out a new set isn't too much of an expense compared to gathering the forces and scenery. Welcome to the hobby! Please ask any other questions that occur to you! My brother jumped out of this picture for some reason, but this was from Christmas this past year. We had a game with old D&D group (friends since the mi-1970s) plus three of the available sons, using the Ral Partha Chaos Wars rules and maybe 400 or so figures (many of which have been in service for decades). That's another discussion, but the upper limits of a practical game are way up there...
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