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About wdmartin

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  1. Live

    I'm getting: 150 Human Mage Female 150 Human Knight female 150 Human Squire female 150 Dwarf Ronin 100 Gnome Duskblade 150 Human Monk 100 Halfling Samurai Female 50 Large Fox That fox is a pretty nice sculpt.
  2. So, when I first tried painting this, I made tolerably decent base for it, coated it with Tamiya Clear Green, and observed that the details were totally unclear. So I highlighted it with yellow. And it looked .... AWFUL. And therefore, I put it on the Shelf of Shame, from whence it has been reproaching me these past three years. "Fiiiiniiish usss," the ghostly damsels kept whispering to me in spooky undertones. "Nope," I said, and returned to all kinds of other projects. "Awwww," they would say, and disspiritedly return to moping in their eldritch green flame. But tonight, I finally decided that the only solution was to disregard the translucent plastic and paint the ladies as if they were any other mini. Thus, I give you a Ghostly Summons. Pics linked for nudity. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 Pic 6 Pic 7 Pic 8 Pic 9 I had to wipe the whole thing down with a wet brush to remove the surface dust first. >.> I think the skin tone on the green one came out best. I have no earthly idea when I'll actually use this mini for anything, but at least they're off the Shelf of Shame.
  3. Live

    That human monk is pretty badass, and there are some nice figures in there. Good to see them all pre-sculpted -- gives you a good idea what to expect. I'm in.
  4. Paint job is looking good so far! But the figure itself made me go "Buh?" Prominent cleavage AND a wimple? These things do not go together in my head! O_O;
  5. I've been thinking about those translucents lately. They're -- weird. They're either super hard to work with, or dead simple, and the results are hit-or-miss. It's difficult to shade or highlight them with normal paint because it destroys the translucency. What's the point of having a translucent model if you're just going to cover it up with regular paint? Things in the dead simple category: 77305 Gelatinous Cube, 77306 Slimes, 77097 Grave Wraith. The cube and slime models look good with just a single coat of Tamiya Clear paint, like so, which makes them super-easy to paint. The Grave Wraith also looks great with a single coat of Tamiya Clear Green on the wraith itself, thus: I kind of wish the base plastic of this model was colorless rather than green. What if I want a blue wraith? Tamiya Clear Blue looks weird layered on top of green. I much prefer the translucent models that don't make color assumptions, like the slimes. Then there are all the other ones, that get complicated. 77095 Ghostly Summons and 77099 Nightspectre are prime examples. The sculpts are cool, but you can't just slop clear paint onto them and expect them to work. The details of the figures buried in the flames are immediately lost -- but as soon as you start highlighting or shading, you've got opaque paint fighting with the translucent figure, and it's really hard to get it to look good without giving up on the translucency and just painting it as a normal figure. For another example, if you look at the Large Fire Elemental in the reaper store, all the samples gave up on the translucency and just painted it like a normal figure. It's not impossible to mix opaque and translucent -- Citrine did some excellent work on hers, and my hat's off to her. But it's just a lot harder. My first attempt at Ghostly Summons went very poorly indeed, and it's been sitting on the shelf of shame for almost three years as a result. Anyway, I guess what it boils down to is that the best translucents have these properties: 1) The whole model is intended to be translucent (e.g. slimes, cube), or the translucent and opaque areas are clearly separated (grave wraith, water weird). 2) Tinted plastic makes color assumptions that the painter then has to live with. Clear is more flexible. Sorry for rambling.
  6. First up - the frost giant queen looks great! Second, your write-up mentioned that you used Krylon primer on her. The general consensus seems to be that you shouldn't use primer on Bones minis: it actually bonds less well than straight acrylic paint with the Bones material, which can lead to problems with paint rubbing off later. Instead, people just wash and assemble the mini, and use an initial layer of plain white acrylic paint. I don't know the consistency of the paint lines you mention, you may need to thin them a bit; when I use Reaper whites for this, I just use it straight out of the bottle, or perhaps with just a tiny drop of water if there are a lot of tiny crevices to get into. But not much -- the Bones material is hydrophobic. If your paint has too much water in it, it'll just bead up on the surface. Lots of people seem to like Brown Liner (and sometimes other Reaper liners) for that initial coat, as the liner formulation is noticeably thinner than normal Reaper paint and flows very smoothly. After the first layer you can paint normally with paints thinned as you see fit, because at that point the paint is bonding to the first layer of acrylic paint rather than to the Bones directly. Hope this helps as you explore painting Bones figures.
  7. Good to know! As it happens I've got ten translucent green ghost things that I was just about to seal, and now I don't have to, barring a few non-translucent areas. Yay! Thanks.
  8. I'm holding off on an order because I don't want another Darius the Blue. It's a nice model, but one is plenty. Hoping August will be super-cool.
  9. I've never used that -- I'll have to add a bottle to my next Reaper order.
  10. Sadly, the brush-on sealer made them much less shiny. Which would ordinarily be fine, but slimes are supposed to be shiny. Sigh!
  11. The rule of thumb I've heard is that 75% (or more) of the surface area should be black to read as black. Ditto for white -- 75% or more should be white to read as white. I'm no expert, though -- my whites tend to read as blue, I think. White and black are just hard. Certainly something I could use more practice with.
  12. It looks like you used grey to shade the white and highlight the black -- don't! It's a trap! Try a dark blue black for highlighting black. For shading white, try pale blue (for a cold white) or pale yellow (for a warm white). I like how her staff turned out.
  13. Nowhere near as scrumptiously delicious as Rhonda Bender's take, but tolerably decent. The blending on the skirts could be smoother, especially on the back -- I'm not sure whether I was thinning too much or too little, but it turned out grainy. And her right eye (the one on HER right) just refused to work well no matter how many times I tried it. I think a clump of solidified pigment got stuck in there or something, because the paint just would not lie flat there. Ah well -- I've got two more of this figure because I just liked the elegance of the sculpt so much. Perhaps I'll revisit her in future. The base is from Micro Arts Studio.
  14. Bags and Jars. Another quickie. Maybe an hour for the two of them? Hard to say, the work took place in scattered minutes of attention while other, more complex things were drying/setting/etc.