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1440 Adventurer

About wdmartin

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  1. We have cracks! They're too subtle. I need to make them pop a bit more. I'm going to experiment on a different base with washes and dry-brushing. EDIT: The dry-brushing worked well.
  2. Vuvuzela or bust!
  3. I've been trying to follow Marike Reimer's guide to painting eyes. It's hard. Accurately painting multiple dots that small is just really freaking hard.
  4. Distress crackle paint, in their "Clear Rock Candy" color. Here's a pic.
  5. It's only been 46 hours rather than 48, but I'm pretty sure this stuff is set. It's pretty clear. So much so that it's kinda hard to see in the pics. Here's another angle so you can see the light reflecting from it: I think this is perfect. Next up, crackle effect around the edges where the ice has started fracturing! You can see the faintly blue-ish areas around the edges. I just sort of blopped it on there with an American Painter #4 synthetic that I keep around for putting on sealer and paints that I don't want to get on my better brushes. And having done so, straight back into its shielded force-dome: It should be dry and crinkly in another 48 hours or so.
  6. Live

    I noticed they have high-res digital copies of all the maps for use in virtual table-tops as an add-on. Yes, please! Even if I don't wind up using the adventures as published, getting a hundred canned-and-ready-to-go maps is going to be SUPER useful.
  7. - Sea Serpent I would like a mini of a dragon's head, sans body, as described in this thread. Depending on the paint job and basing, a mini of this sort could be used for any aquatic dragon rearing its head out of the water, or with more exotic things like fire dragons swimming in lava, or extra-planar dragons who can pop their heads through holes in time and space to savage adventurers in whole other planes of existence.
  8. I will go put a bowl over it! That had not occurred to me. Not a smoker, so it's not nicotine. The yellowing could be residue from my fingers, I suppose -- I have been using yellow elsewhere in the mini. But I'm not sure if I've ever been using the yellow in the same sessions as working on the blue areas. Hrm.
  9. The gems I ordered from artbeads.com showed up last Tuesday, and I glued them in place. One ruby, two diamonds and a topaz. Sadly they don't really stand out -- they're the same size as the coins, more or less, and roughly as shiny. I have circled them below for ease of identification. And this evening -- I poured the epoxy. First, I set up the base on a lump of play dough: I mixed up the Easy Cast carefully according to the directions given, including giving the bottles a warm bath first, and measuring super-carefully to get a 1:1 mixture ratio between the resin and hardener, 15 milliliters each. I used one of the little medicine cups that comes with bottles of cough syrup to do the measuring -- fortunately I had a spare one of those lying around. It's stored with the Easy Cast now, because I don't think it should ever be used for administering medicine again! I stirred the mixture for two full minutes in a disposable plastic Solo cup, poured it into a second cup, stirred two more full minutes, and poured! I put in a bit too much, and it promptly overflowed. Fortunately I had put down wax paper first, so that's not on my counter. While it was still liquid, I adjusted the angle of the play dough, and used a kleenex to wipe off a bunch of the excess. There will be some shiny spots on that end, but that's okay, I can cover them with crackle effect ice or perhaps some snow. After watching it carefully for a few minutes, I think it has settled and will not be leaking anywhere else. So there's nothing left to do for that bit but wait till it cures. Should be fine by late Tuesday evening. Here's a view from the front -- I think most of the hoard is going to be covered. I had kind of envisioned the lower reaches being free, but eh, this'll do. In other news, I've continued working on the dragon. Progress is annoyingly slow on that. Trying to reconcile the two different techniques on the two different sides of the dragon so that he looks look reasonably from both edges is difficult. I haven't even started the wings yet. Speaking of the wings, those suckers are annoying when I need to get in and brush at the body scales. Also, I keep worrying that I'm going to put my eye out with one of this wing claws. Next time I paint a dragon, I think I'll try painting the body first and THEN attaching the wings. One at a time, even. Also, I've noticed that some of my white paint is yellowing! I have no idea what is causing that. It's not happening consistently across the dragon. Perhaps my Solid White is chemically unstable for some reason? It's not SUPER noticeable, but I'd rather have a clean, sharp pristine white.
  10. @edz16I made my own. Here's the recipe: Mix 1 part Liquitex Flow Improver with 9 parts distilled water. Combine the resulting liquid with Liquitex Matte Medium (50/50). Put it in a dropper bottle. Mix with your paint to taste. I find it particularly useful with metallic paints. There's a full tutorial with video at Dakka Dakka, which is where I learned how to do it.
  11. My first attempt at washing did not go well! I think the Snow Shadow lost its coherence because I added too much water. It barely left any color at all, and the bits that it did leave were blotchy. Attempt 2: Better! I used colorless wash medium instead of regular water -- I think 2 or 3 drops to 1 drop of Snow Shadow. It's too blue, but once we clean up some of the scale tips it should read right. Thus. That looks much better to me. Much more organic. Working up from Snow Shadow to white left it feeling far too regular. The edges of the scales were too sharply defined. This method feels much more believable (not to mention a lot faster!). Of course that leaves the problem that I've painted about half of one side with the method I don't like. So I thought, "Maybe if I wash that part with Solid White?" I experimented on the inside of his thigh where it wouldn't be too obvious if it didn't work. The wash of Solid White was applied only at the top left areas of this photo, not lower. I think it works, so I'm going to proceed with that this evening, I think. I'll probably also hit the Palomino Gold bits of his underbelly with the same white wash. You could say I'm whitewashing my problems! :-Þ
  12. I think the model name is Fiama, not Faima. Took me a while to locate it. You are correct that you need some more contrast -- the armor came out pretty uniform. Some tonal variation would help distinguish the sections from one another. Also, the hair needs highlights. That said, this is an excellent job! It's one heck of a lot better than my first mini was, that's for sure! The base is excellent. As for washes, I mostly use homebrew wash medium mixed with whatever paint I need. I make it like so: First, mix 1 part flow improver to 9 parts distilled water. Second, mix in matte medium. It should be a 50/50 mix between matte medium and the concoction from step 1. Bottle -- I bought a bag of cheap plastic dropper bottles pretty much like Reaper's for this purpose. Shake thoroughly. Done. This is colorless wash medium. To use it, put a drop of your paint of choice in a well in your palette, then add the wash medium according to taste. If you want the pigment diluted thoroughly, it might be 1 drop paint to 4 drops wash medium; or it could be a 1:1 mix. Some people use the same recipe but add colorants for canned colored washes -- usually acrylic artist inks. There's a guide on dakka dakka, which is where I learned to do it.
  13. Aren't you allowed to use black and white, too? If not, well .. those teeth are already white. Just don't paint them!
  14. That looks much better. Good job!
  15. Perhaps it's late to ask this -- but why does the Lair of Evil have a railing? Cackling Overlords of Doom are not known for their compliance with workplace safety regulations.