• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8465 Hero


About Auberon

  • Rank
  • Birthday June 1

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

692 profile views
  1. I decided to block out the rest of my colors. No highlighting or anything at this point. When I first made my plan black was the first color so I made him a black dragon. Technically though, the wings have so much surface area that I should have switched my colors to get the proper challenge ratios.
  2. I used several Bones for test minis - direct, no brown liner - and after letting them sit for over a year decided to try and use Simple Green to strip the paint. Reaper - After a few days it was loose enough that I could brush most of it off with an old toothbrush. I threw it back in for another week to take care of the rest. VMC - It took a little longer, but once it decided to come off it came off pretty easily with brushing. Interestingly though, some of them had stained the Bones surface and left a residual color. VGC - This hadn't come off even after I'd scrubbed the previous two off so I threw the Bones back into the SG and proceeded to forget about them... for three months. The VGC still wouldn't come off with an old toothbrush, or a new toothbrush, or an electric toothbrush, though I could scrape it off with a nail. I wasn't looking to attack Bones with a wire brush though, so I decided the paint could stay where it was. In short, some Vallejo paints really like Bones. You may have found one such formulation.
  3. It's not really a trap if you know what you're getting into from the start. Overly specialized might be a more appropriate term. Those I first played with would say, "If you build an urban character that's fine, but that's the character you get to play. No complaining when it's not urban and you suck." Not everyone plays that way though. Personally, I am not a fan of splitting the party, so I would say keep them together in whatever way works for the group.
  4. I would recommend against using standard soaps in a wash. While they are certainly capable of making the paint flow into cracks, you have the potential for reactivation when the surface gets wet again. I'm not sure what size bottles you currently have, but you can purchase artist grade mediums, flow improvers and retarders in large quantities at your hobby store of choice (Hobby Lobby/Micheals/Blicks/etc.)
  5. How large of a footprint does your "L" have? Are we talking a giant black block or something like 1/8th of the base?
  6. Live

    I asked for a wet pallet as a gift and received the big Masterson one. It is big... But not the best option for all paints and techniques. My porcelain well still sees plenty of use.
  7. pdf books can be nice for reference, though I've found that if I've played a game enough I start remembering what page to flip to for a given rule. For reading I just prefer physical books. Other than that, it's pretty much old fashioned pen and paper, dice and minis.
  8. Same. I recognize maybe half of them.
  9. I have several W&N S7 brushes and they are all quite nice. I had a W&N Artist brush that I thought didn't work very well, but looking back now I didn't take very good care of it. WAMP brushes are good, though as I picked mine up through kickstarter I haven't done a retail price comparison for value.
  10. Never again is a bit too strong, but I will say my brother and I rarely eat anything made with hamburger. We just had waaaaaaaaaaaay too much of it growing up.
  11. While I don't particularly care for a few different creatures, nothing is the level of a true phobia. Don't bother me and I won't kill you is pretty much how it goes.
  12. Back to the old standby, Shadow Grey. If you are unfamiliar with Vallejo, it is a decently dark blue-grey color that works pretty well as a black highlight. Neutrals have a problem of "reading" as stone; the blue shift helps to prevent the mind playing such tricks. Next it needs an even higher highlight, which will be a lighter blue-grey. After that It'll be back to black to bring it all together and hopefully ensure that it reads as black rather than dark grey. And I've just started underneath. Naturally with the wings being out of direct sunlight they should be darker than the upper part so they both got a shading wash over the entire surface.
  13. I have in the past, but not currently. The closest I came was the latest season of GoT, but even then I would frequently wait until the next day. While I'm not at work quite as early as Dilvish, I'm still up early enough that I take a pass on pretty much anything 9pm or later.
  14. I picked up a new sketchbook to serve as a miniature panting log. When I first started I was keeping track of things digitally and typing in my paints after I finished painting. That worked great when I was knocking out single figures in one or two sittings, but I find I don't keep up with it very well when I take a long time to finish a piece. Fingers crossed it works better to just have something right there at the table.
  15. Thanks. It's mostly the Napthol Crimson showing through. I tried a bit of an experiment to quickly highlight black, but the result was just too purple. I first painted the wing arm (or whatever its proper name is) with dioxane purple ink and then washed it with some thin black paint. Crevices black, highlights purple, but the midtone was too purple to read properly, and any more washing would have just made it black. Big pic: And here it is side by side with actual black. Now both are black to be highlighted normally, but you never know until you try. Or read a WIP where someone else already tried it.