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Everything posted by Auberon

  1. http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/50
  2. Good to know. Thanks. One of the inconveniences of modern living is companies assuming I check their FB page.
  3. You guys make me wonder if my music wire isn't music wire every time you start talking about it flying across the room. The only time it hits the floor is when I drop it, in which case it's considered lost if I can't locate it in about 30 seconds. Perhaps I shall get a shipping notice soon. I was starting to wonder if they forgot about me.
  4. Auberon

    Good place at Amazon for Reaper

    Thanks for letting me know. I figured it was like a cheap vortex mixer. My paints have agitators in them but I don't think their magnetic metals. Guess I'll keep looking. They do in fact make PTFE stir bars that would fit in a paint bottle and could double as an agitator if you left them in there. The cost would start to add up though if you had a lot of paints.
  5. And some minis that were on sale. Who wants to pay MSRP? Wild West Exodus: Legendary Wyatt Earp Warmachine: (Mercenaries) Ashlynn d'Elyse Warmachine: (Mercenaries) Epic Eiryss, Angel Of Retribution Warmachine: (Mercenaries) Fiona The Black, Privateer Warcaster Hordes: (Skorne) Tiberion Infinity (#647) PanOceania: Bagh-Mari Unit (HMG) Warlord: Broodmaster Dragon Rider Dark Heaven Legends: Achilles, Mythical Hero Dark Heaven Legends: Blacksting The Wyvern Warlord: Lupine Sentry Miniatures Boxed Sets: Pirates Of The Dragon Spine Sea III Warlord: Sielendria, Sister Of The Blade Mage Warlord: Valandil, High Mage Warlord: Battle Nun, Crusader Adept Infinity (#163) Yu Jing: Aragoto Senkenbutai (Combi Rifle & Light Shotgun, Spitfire)
  6. I decided to collect more Infinity minis to get around to painting some day. Operation Coldfront Beyond Coldfront Penthesilea, Amazon Warrioress Penthesilea, Amazon Biker Bootleg
  7. I can't recall the last time I've been. Except for the county fairs, none of that stuff is local and I'm not motivated to travel for it.
  8. Nothing in particular comes to mind. If a gadget was useful enough for me to miss it, I still use it. For example, I've never used my phone as a calculator. Some people like actual calculators so there are a good dozen of them strewn around the area where I work. I like the internets, but not on my phone. And video games, but if I never played another game on my phone I'd be ok.
  9. Auberon

    Happy Pi day!

    We celebrate pie day at work. I think around a dozen were brought in today.
  10. Enablement succeeded! It's not just limited. It gets more expensive as they are sold. Why? I suppose because they can. " THE FIRST 150 COPIES COST € 91,50 FROM THE 151 UNTIL THE 299 THE KIT WILL THEN COST € 109,80"
  11. Auberon

    Raise your hand if it's snowing

    Supposed to be 60F and rain tomorrow. Spring has sprung and all that.
  12. Well that's interesting. Kimera partially assembled her with a "very resistant special glue." The stated purpose behind the experiment was to make it impossible for recasters to copy it. I wonder if we'll see more of these expensive resin kits do this. Unfortunately the packing material was the green plastic grass used in Easter baskets all over the US. I'm not sure how I plan to get it all back in there.
  13. One of my orders has arrived. I am once again making purchases from companies I haven't tried yet. From Black Crow Miniatures the Wraith: From Nuts Planet Red Ridinghood: And from Kimera Dhalya the Fairy:
  14. As a FF fan, I've always had a soft spot for nakatan's chocobo rider. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/49475-the-final-charge-monique-de-noir-riding-chocobo/&tab=comments#comment-720188
  15. Auberon

    Elven Miniatures for RPGs

    If my ankle was bent like that I would probably do more than cringe.
  16. I can play again, at least until a toy or two arrives. I even have a few things to take pics of already, if I get around to it.
  17. My March order was large enough that I got two Efreetis. Fortunately neither of them have the large gap that you are describing. One did have noticeably worse mold lines than the other, but I am about done cleaning the worse of the two and they come off just fine. Well, the ones I can get to. With the full assembly there are a few lines that I am still contemplating the best way to reach.
  18. Auberon

    Dragon Lords: Grenadier New Edition

    This reminds me that I should finish painting the second half of my 2007 set.
  19. And my order arrived today. I thought that I'd gotten another shipment without an email from Reaper, but I happened to check my spam folder and noticed that gmail has decided help@reapermini.com is a spammer. If you've lost contact with Reaper, you might want to check. I'm currently looking at my Efreeti and wishing she wasn't pre-assembled.
  20. Auberon

    Red Sandstone buildings?

    If you plan to use an airbrush Vallejo has a terracotta as part of their Air line. I only have the brush on version though, so I can't say how realistic the airbrush version is. The downside is the price would start to add up.
  21. Auberon

    Raise your hand if it's snowing

    But spring isn't late yet. There's still two more weeks. Thursday may be the last snow of the season here. The long range forecast is showing 49F and rain by next week.
  22. I do both, though the convenience of ready made is nice. EDIT: I hit post, not attach... so an example of I made And some premade that I just painted.
  23. for a 5E game. That's about all I can do for my WIP's theme after only one session. Mostly it will be monsters. Maybe I can convince the DM to tell me what's coming so I can paint it. These are just for tabletop, but my philosophy is you should still try something new on every piece, or at least work on getting better at something you can already do. Which is why I started a WIP I wasn't even originally going to bother with - for an experiment. I was looking at the marsh troll and thinking "this would be a good candidate for glaze painting." Now if you aren't familiar with glaze painting, it is where you prime white and then add washes/glazes of progressively darker colors. It creates your midtone and shadows, then you go back in and add back the highlights. You can do it for anything but it is ideal for textures. Now Bones are white, but you can't just go over them with diluted paints. Liner works well to prime, but then the mini is no longer white. But wait, I have a large bottle of white craft paint that I used for some terrain. What if I prime with liner, give it a heavy drybrush so the highlights are white again, and then glaze paint? Step 1: Brown liner + a heavy drybrush of white craft paint. Step 2: Green skin starts with yellow paint. Here is a potential issue - the liner shifts the shadows to green. As I want green skin this isn't an issue but it would be if I wanted my final color to be yellow. I am also trying not to be messy as I would need to make any messes white again later. Step 3: Sap green diluted to a wash. Now the skin is greenish. Step 4: A second wash of sap green in the shadows to add more depth. Step 5: His highlights are still pretty yellow in hand so I made a wash of anthraquinone blue. It will make the yellow more green and further darken the shadows. Oh, I hit his front too. It was really blue so I started the color shift with some phthalocyanine green ink. Interlude: Lem. Needed for a PC. Must be finished by Friday. The troll is optional. Step 6: All leather was hit with a couple of layers of burnt umber ink. Step 7: The wood was coated with a mix of burnt umber ink and titanium white. Some of the liner still shows through so the initial color is a little wonky in places. Maybe it'll add texture to the wood.... Step 7: Shade the wood. Initially I used a burnt umber ink wash, but it wasn't intense enough and would end up looking like the leather after a few more washes. So I used the obvious wood shadow color, dioxazine purple ink watered down to a wash. From the front. His belly got a wash of the burnt umber ink while it was out. A couple more and it would turn olive, but maybe I'll leave it bluish. While multiple washes have smoothed it out you can still see texture from the drybrush showing through. It's an interesting effect here but won't always be desirable. Step 8: Call it a night and go to bed. I have to work and make money after all. We can't paint all the time. Next update - unknown. I really do need to finish the halfling bard before I play around anymore.
  24. Auberon

    Auberon Paints His Bones...

    Yeah, I don't post much in here anymore (wait, who is that guy) but I used one of these tabletop Bones as a test piece and though someone might be interested in the results. The short story is some time ago I picked up the Scale 75 Steam & Punk set to try out. I liked the original line and as I had a steampunk mini in the queue, that seemed a reasonable set to pick up. I tried the leather and ended up not liking it as well as the original paints, so I sat it aside to gather dust. Fast forward to today and I decided to give the set another try. First, back to the leather. Rather than following their tutorial I decided to mix something by eye. On the plus side I like it better than their version, but I did run into a couple of issues. 1 - the color of Blackert Brown is too close to Reaper's Tanned Shadow. What you see here is a best case scenario with bright lights. Under regular room lighting they are even closer in hue and don't really differentiate. So, if I use this skin in the future I'll use/mix a different leather to go on top. The other issue is that the shadow color for the set, Arbuckles Brown isn't quite opaque enough to use to make scratches. Not a big deal as you can use other paints, or go over the same line several times like I did. I think it also helped that I went dark to light over Brown Liner. Shading down over a mid-tone with Arbuckles might look too purple. But the real reason I got the set out was I wanted to paint some copper NMM and this set claims that as one of its colors. In this case I like the way the colors work better than the leather. The highlight color, Hykey Yellow, feels an awful lot like the yellow that's in the original set, but I haven't tried them side by side yet. The Birch may be slightly more desatured. At any rate, highlighting copper to yellow is a valid option as it does look that way under certain lighting conditions. My memory though is that direct sunlight is not one of them, and that the highlight should go more white. I'll try some of that later. The center piece of the axe is their gold from this set, but going dark to light I didn't get enough mid-tone in there. I'll have to tweek it a bit when I paint more gold. And there's my overview from the set, painting the three things it says you can paint. As you can see from the pics, these paints tend toward satin rather than matte. If you prefer the latter finish then the original set is likely a better choice.