hosercanadian

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About hosercanadian

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  1. I think those spots look fantastic.
  2. That Cthlulu shrine is amazing. Reminds me of the oneback home in Rhley.
  3. Not the end of the world with the washes. A bit of flock/statuc grass to cover it will look natural and give a bit of colour/focus on the signs.
  4. what about a compromise? I think a broken mast would look good without storage or height inconvenience. As an added perk, a bit of sail and boom could be put on the deck as the remnants of the mast and rigging.
  5. If you want to add the year, cheat. Make a mold and cast a blank. Sculpt on the year, make a mold of that one. Next year cast another blank, add the year...creatively edit a WIP forum entry to amuse the newbies and show off the next version.
  6. I know it has been said numerous times, but more noncombatant townsfolk, farmers, etc. Most miniature games out there require civilians (or a token) for at least one scenario and don't make their own. Most RPGs have circumstances where there are noncombatants. And personally, I have felt the pain of "I kill the guy with the sword" "that is an unarmed hostage" "I thought the guy with the axe was he hostage". With the spoilers hopefully this will mean more of those folks. And the dressing to go with them: market stalls, wagons, livestock, professionals like lamp lighters, town crier, merchant, carpenter, labourer (to name a few not already covered in Bones).
  7. The blue and yellow is a reference to the Marvel comic book character Wolverine.
  8. Fantastic work as always. I am inspired to do something similar as I was using terrain as a backdrop for some pics, this is a far more aesthetically pleasing option.
  9. Excellen work overall. The natural looking mottlig and patterns is great. My only critique is that the wolverine needs more yellow and blue.
  10. The only thing this is missing is Afterburner by Reaper as the hero facing them.
  11. Ogres always need more layers...like an onion. Looks great.
  12. Wow that is an over-engineered way to do it. I used thin card to break the curcuit with the wires wrapped around the battery. I made the bottom wire stick out a tiny bit so you completed the circuit (turned it on) by putting it down flat. I agree that drilling before anything else is the best thing to do. I also experimented with breaking the housing on the LED. By making it flat the light shone upwards more and diffused better.
  13. I am going to shamelessly steal the wingspot idea for some of my dragons.
  14. Leave this one as is, it looks great. I agree the paint will finish it. The other option is to turn the base into part of the mini. Paint or attach bits to make it look like a pillar or grave marker. Add some ominous runes maybe. As your next light up project: if you feel ambitious, the Reaper bases are big enough to hold a flat "watch" battery. With some fiddling around you can make a light up model on a regular base. but...be warned it will likely take more time than painting the model. I bought a bunch of LEDs with the intention of having glowing balls of fire...stopped after one because I found if fiddly.
  15. I managed to find a bit of brush time and did these guys up just in time for my regular RPG session. Nothing too fancy, and I did rush the stitch golems a bit. I had fun with the flesh golem and making him look cobbled together from spare parts a bit. The Iron Golem OSL I would like some advice on. I got a look I am happy with on the head, but nowhere else. Since it is for tabletop I will settle for now but I would like some feedback to improve. Thanks.