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Guindyloo last won the day on November 14 2017

Guindyloo had the most liked content!

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About Guindyloo

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    Xenomorph Queen
  • Birthday 08/22/1982

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    New Orleans
  • Interests
    I like xenomorphs, painting minis and goblins.

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  1. My skin tones need more poking in general. It's such a small area though and honestly, I don't think it's worth the time. It's not often that I decide that something isn't worth the time, but if I sit here and obsess over getting his face perfect, when skin tones and faces are something that I very much need to work on, I will never get the rest of him done. For me, that's the #1 cause of things getting shoved onto my Shelf of Shame - I'm trying to get something on it perfect, when it's never going to be perfect because I'm not there yet, and I really just need to move on. There are some things where putting the time and effort into that single mini is going to pay off in experience, but futzing around with a single face is not one of them for me. That's not to say that your suggestion is not a good one, I think you're technically correct. But also, his face is in so much actual shadow that such detail isn't even going to show unless you're tilting his face back into the light like I am for pictures. Otherwise, all you're really seeing is the bottom half of his face anyway. See? Lots of actual shadow, so I think it would be very easy to overdo the highlights on the bottom half of the face. Agreed, it's why I do the eyes directly after basecoating the face.... I just hadn't realized that having the eyes 1/16th of a millimeter too low was going to make such a drastic difference. Had I thought to check the pictures while painting, I wouldn't have moved on to shading and highlighting the skin. I just got overly frustrated with the visor being in the way and decided to call them good enough prematurely. Good thing it's just paint and better late than never! You highly overestimate my skill level, sir. It's a very cool idea though! So I totally re-painted the eyes. Those are terrible pictures, but hopefully y'all will agree that his eyes look better now. I painted over the bottom half of the eyes with MSP Golden Shadow and then painted them back in so they would be more eye shaped. They're now just that tiny bit higher and also about half the size that they were. If y'all have any other suggestions for them, I'd be glad to hear them but with how small they are and that visor in the way, we may have reached the best that I can do. So I decided to move on to the cloak next. I'm going to throw a disclaimer on here because something we haven't reiterated for the past few WIP threads is the point that painting should be fun and if you're having fun then you're doing it right; getting something technically right is often just a bonus. So when I'm telling y'all how I did something in these WIPs, I'm not saying this is how things should be done, I'm just presenting to you how I tend to go about things. I am not a professional painter and I don't think for a second that I have all the answers. I'm just a rando that loves painting and has learned a few things or figured some things out here and there and in a lot of cases is still figuring things out. I may not always do things right and I may do things in a way that someone absolutely disagrees with. But if something I say or do helps someone else, even if it's just taking elements or by NOT doing something the way I do it, as long as it helps, that's awesome. So why am I pointing that out right at this moment? Well, because what I'm about to show with this cloak is going to be so convoluted, that I would actually actively say not to try to follow what I did because it was probably a lot of unnecessary steps to get from A to Z (not even Z because it's not done) because I didn't entirely know what I was doing. I often don't know what I'm doing. I just try things out and slop paint on things and try to figure my way out. Sometimes it works out really well and sometimes it doesn't. So I don't want anyone to think that my showing the steps of this cloak is me giving a tutorial on cloak painting or endorsing going through these specific steps. Cool? Cool. So I started out by basecoating it with MSP Jade Green. Generally I basecoat with my midtone and maybe this will end up being my midtone but even I didn't know at this point. I just saw this colour and said "yes, I want to put that on this cloak" because sometimes that's how I choose colours. So once that was solid, I took MSP Brilliant Blue and mixed a little of that in with the Jade Green. I don't know why the lighting went so weird on these next couple of palette pictures. Brilliant Blue is showing more true to colour here, but Jade Green is way off. I took that colour and I sketched in where I thought the shadows should fall. I'm going to disagree with the placement on some of that later down the road, but this was just about sketching it in and not getting it right from the start. Then I mixed in a little bit more of the Brilliant Blue. And sketched in some deeper shadows. It's weird how that stark contrast makes it look like I mocked that up in MS Paint. Then I added a little bit more Brilliant Blue to the previous mix and the lighting changed back to normal on my palette. "Normal" does not mean it's a good picture, it's just back to the usual quality for me. Even deeper shadows. Then I thinned down some of the original mix (just a little bit of the Brilliant Blue mixed into the Jade Green) and softened all of the edges. Then I took this thrilling action shot.... Now here's where things get really fuzzy.... I put the shadows back in, mostly with straight Brilliant Blue, but then there was some glazing and some more mixing and a whole lot of back and forth to get the blending right. And then this... And then this... And then this is where it wound up at the end of the night, but the cloak still needs plenty more work. That was probably a solid 2 hours of back and forth blending. Probably needs another 4 hours or so. I might try to do it in another 2.
  2. Entrance to the Faerie Deeps

    Interested would be an understatement
  3. Heroines in Sensible Shoes 3

    Mine arrived at my parents' house yesterday afternoon! It probably won't actually be in my hands until the weekend, but I always look forward to looking through my Oathsworn goodies.
  4. Kingdom Death: Monster 2

    My box arrived at my parents' house yesterday afternoon. I probably won't be able to get it until the weekend...but that's just as well since I don't know where I'm going to put it anyway.
  5. Entrance to the Faerie Deeps

    Thank you for sharing this, malefactus. I don't often have the chance to look at the forum while I'm at the office since I started this new job, but I'm pleased that the few minutes I had could be spent on one of your wonderful pieces. You're really making me want to make some mushrooms but I think they would pale in comparison to yours.
  6. Why do y'all have to ruin my day? Nah, you're right. I'll see if I can shift the eyes up a bit. The more I look at him, the more I see the sloth from Ice Age......or Sloth from The Goonies. Either way, it's not a good look.
  7. Yeah, his tab definitely doesn't fit into the slot... I didn't try to make him fit, I just cut off the tab and pinned him to my base. If you don't want to deal with pinning or going through a lot of trouble to shave down the tab to make him fit, I would suggest sizing up your base if that's an option. The bendy banana sword aside, the mold lines on this guy were pretty standard but I do have a bit of extra metal in the arm hole here. I shaved as much out as I could with my exacto and on dryfit, I think it's going to work out just fine. Just like with Rictus, his arm is going to block enough that I want to leave it off until the end, but it shouldn't need any greenstuffing at the end. So you're going to be seeing this base a lot and I want to explain first and foremost that it is not meant to look like that. First of all, just like with Rictus, I used a base stamp that I have with some greenstuff to make a base for him. Because of the size and position of his cloak, I wanted to get a basecoat going on the base beforehand.........and then I realized that I had completely forgotten to scrub Baran with dish soap to clean off any mold release that might've been left on the model. But I had already pinned him to the base. So you're seeing toothbrush scrub damage and I'll deal with it later. Alright, so to start out, I basecoated his face with MSP Golden Skin. Then I took Brown Liner to line around his face since the underside of the visor is in complete shadow. Then I blocked in the eyes with MSP Chestnut Brown. He looks kinda like a motorcycle cop, doesn't he? Then I took Warcolours One Coat Beige and blocked in the whites of the eyes and now he looks super creepy. And I'm just going to pause for a minute here because in person, I didn't realize how low on his face I've painted his eyes. You've probably noticed this before - you paint the eyes on your mini and think they look pretty good...and then you see the pictures on your phone or computer and you're like "omg how did I not notice that?" and that's where I'm at with these eyes. Obviously with the visor where it is, these eyes are not easy to get to. So I'll think about giving them another go. Anyway, continuing on... So then I took....I'm actually not sure if I used black or Brown Liner to put in the iris/pupil. And then I made one attempt at putting a white dot and then immediately gave up and instead cleaned up the bottom of the eyes with my skin colour. They look too low, right? Let me know what y'all think. So next I used Chestnut Brown again to sketch in my darkest shadows. Then I mixed Chestnut Brown with Golden Shadow to soften the harsh shadows. Aaaaaaaand I gotta be honest with you here, I was doing a lot of back and forth and I can't really tell you exactly what changed from picture to picture for the next couple of pictures. So I'll just tell you that I pushed and pulled back and forth between Golden Skin and Golden Shadow. Here I can tell you for sure that I brought in Golden Highlight for the top highlights. Hmmmm.... I don't know, what do y'all think?
  8. You're very welcome! I'm glad it helped! Well, yeah! Why would you not want your skeletons to glow?? Too much Tim Burton, actually... And while Skeletor may not technically glow, he does have a glowing personality.
  9. That's awesome to hear! I'm glad it was helpful!
  10. Hi, friends! In continuing with our plan to catch up with painting the Dungeon Dwellers as a joint WIP together as they come out, can I interest you in some Baran Blacktree? Buglips and I will be painting him in our usual fashion, but if you haven't already, make sure that you check out Rhonda Bender's awesome PDF painting guide for him here: Dungeon Dwellers Y'all probably know by now how these go, but if not, check out our Thanis the Bonecaller thread where it all began and that'll give you links to all of the other joint WIP threads we've done.
  11. I think I regard it more as an accident because I stop consciously thinking about the direction I'm taking. It generally happens when something has gone awry and my brain goes into crisis mode, which is why there are no pictures of the process because it's not that I'm trying to achieve a certain goal, I'm just trying to bring it back from bad. Maybe we're describing the same thing and it's just that my pessimistic nature is showing. Ok, so for the most part I didn't take any step by step pictures of the shield because I was just using the same methods as previous areas. The outer area of the shield I wanted to do in gold, so I basecoated with MSP Malvernian Purple, then over that with P3 Blighted Gold. Attempting a real TMM is something that I've only dabbled with and honestly I'm not sure how to go about taking pictures of steps. I tried and every picture looked exactly the same in my lighting. So I'm just going to tell you that I highlighted with a 50/50 mix of P3 Blighted Gold and P3 Brass Balls, then I did the very edges with straight P3 Brass Balls. For the shadows, I used Secret Weapon Rust Shadow, which does a really beautiful job of dulling down the metallic shine while still having an organic shadow look to it. Really in love with that paint. There are a couple of damage marks in the shield. I used MSP Nightmare Black for those as I was basecoating the inner area of the shield for the Secret Weapon rust treatment. With some real time feedback from Buglips, I went a little bit darker with the rust effect because of the existing texture of the sculpt. So after going all over with all of the steps of the Secret Weapon rust paints, I went back over it with some Rust Shadow. So here's where that left us: Next up, I also wanted to do the round detail on his shield as a gem. So first off when you paint a gem, you want to make sure that you know what direction your light is coming in from. I ten to light from above and slightly to the left for most things, which is the way that I did the highlighting overall on the shield, so that's how my gem will get its lighting as well. So I started out with painting a semicircle with MSP Pure Black in the top left. Then I filled in the rest of the area with MSP Black Green. Then I went over most of the previous area with MSP Clear Green. Then I mixed just a little brush full of Moth Green into the Clear Green and did a semi circle in the bottom right. Then I did a heavy glaze of some more Clear Green. There was a lot of push and pull with this to get the blending right. Then I glazed in some MSP Candlelight Yellow to both further smooth things out and to impart that beautiful glow that glazing Candlelight Yellow over something tends to give. I don't know how obvious that reads on the camera, but I would recommend trying it sometime over green. Lastly I took MSP Pure White and put a couple of little dots in a semicircle shape for the final highlight. Then it was late and I finished up Rictus with a few simple things that I didn't take step by step pictures of. I started by basecoating the horns of his helmet with Secret Weapon Handle Wood. Then I painted the tips of the horns with MSP Pure Black, leaving the edges jagged. I shaded the bottom edges of the horns with a quick mix of SW Handle Wood and SW Rust Shadow. I highlighted the tips of the horns with a couple of quick mixes of MSP Pure Black and SW Handle Wood. Then I basecoated the base with MSP Afterburn Grey (It's a discontinued Heavy Gear paint but tends to be my go to medium grey) and then lined the cracks with Brown Liner, then went over the rim of the stone pattern with SW Rust Shadow. I then glazed in touches of SW Rust Shadow, SW Old Rust and MSP Black Green over the tops of the stones. I highlighted the stones with a couple of quick mixes of the MSP Afterburn Grey with SW Handle Wood. Then I cleaned up the rim of the base with MSP Pure Black. And with that, Rictus was done! Thanks for following along! I hope y'all like him and that maybe this will give you some ideas for painting your own Rictus, or some part of it helps you in some way or that it was just fun for you to follow along with!
  12. So Buglips and I were discussing it because I genuinely thought that the thighs were cloth and we figured out why I thought they were and how I came to agree that they were not. So I don't know how well you can actually see that, but maybe you can see how there's a bit of a curve to the back of his thigh, which my brain read as sagging cloth. There are also creases at the back of his knee. Buglips told me something about armour that I'll never remember enough about to repeat. So what actually convinced me that it was not cloth was because of the thickness of his thigh. Obviously he's just a skeleton, so if he just had cloth pants, then his thighs would not be so thick, they'd be bony and extremely saggy. So for there to be structure there, the intention must be for it to be armour and the creases at the back of the knee are just the gap between the armour plates where you can see cloth poking through. So I basecoated his sleeves and the back of his knee with MSP Black Green. And then I did the thighs and the shield arm with the same metal and rust method as the rest of the areas. So next I wanted to paint the other metal areas, which I wanted to be gold. I decided to basecoat those areas with purple because, well, why not? I thought it might give them a slight undertone that you might not necessarily actually see consciously, but that would make them go just a little bit better with the purple cloak. So I grabbed MSP Malvernian Purple, literally because it was the closest purple to my hand at the time, and basecoated the inside of the shield and the stripe down the middle of his helmet and the hilt of his sword. Then I went over the purple with P3 Blighted Gold, which is one of my favourite metallic paints. It's just so lovely. On the inside of the shield, I also went over the Blighted Gold with Secret Weapon Rust Shadow to dull down the shine since that entire area is in shadow up against his body...at least with the way that I planned on positioning his shield. Then I started working on his face and oh man, you guys. I've painted a lot of skeletons but for some reason, it just wasn't working out with this guy. He just looked off. The colours were wrong, the contrast was wrong and he somehow looked cross-eyed even though he doesn't have any eyes.... And in trying to fix it, I just..... I don't know if this ever happens to you guys, but.....I accidentally OSL'd. Here's another shot with a white background so that the camera isn't going above and beyond with the white balance and blowing out the contrast in the process. That picture is not really any better. One of these days I swear I'm going to sort out these lighting issues. I was thinking about maybe trying one of those arc lights that gives more consistent light. Anyway, I digress. So since I hadn't actually intended on doing this OSL, I didn't take any pictures of the process. However, since I'm also incompetent, I managed to totally forget about painting his arm that's showing through his shredded arm cloth, so I was able to document the steps on that! So I started out by painting the arm bone with..........I'm honestly not sure what colour that is. It's one of the MSP bone paints. It honestly doesn't matter because I just wanted to give it a bright off-white base. Next I took the best paint that Reaper makes, 09248 Moth Green Or, ok, I suppose that's just my subjective opinion, maybe not everyone has need for the best acid green colour ever or something; at the very least it's my favourite Reaper paint and I very much think that everyone should own it. Anyway, I took arguably the best paint that Reaper makes, my beloved 09248 Moth Green and went over the arm bone with it. I want this to be my brightest point on the arm. Moth Green is a touch translucent so the brightness of the off white beneath it is really going to punch up the brightness of the area. Next, I'm going to tag @Fire_Eyes because I was just giving a suggestion about this to her - I wanted you to see what I ended up using for this. I probably could've thinned it a bit more because I do still have a wee bit of chalkiness but I ended up going for a slightly darker green to dull it down to make sure that the brightest point was my light source. I started with a base of MSP Candlelight Yellow and mixed just half a brush worth of MSP Clear Blue into it and that gave me this pretty translucent darker than Moth Green but still very acidic slime looking green colour. I would want to play with this a little bit more in the future because it was still just slightly chalky because there is a little bit of an opaque base to the Candlelight Yellow. I'm not sure why I grabbed the Candlelight Yellow instead of Clear Yellow. Truth be told, I really love Candlelight Yellow and so the thought process behind it was most likely "Ooh, I love Candlelight Yellow." I'm really not kidding when I say that the OSL just kinda happened, so when doing the arm, I wanted to recreate what I had done on the head rather than play with it and risk having two parts looking drastically different. On future figures, I would use Clear Yellow instead and see if that resolves the slight chalkiness and if not, then I'd explore possible additives to mix in. Anyway. I took that mix and concentrated it on the areas closest to the bone like the inside of the sleeve and the fabric folds closest on the cloak. This is my strongest light, but I made it darker to maintain the brightness of the source. Then I took a couple of brushes full of that green mix and added a couple of drops to make a heavy glaze. I used this the same way I would do a regular glaze, making sure to dab off most of the moisture onto a paper towel, and then I used it in a circular area around the lightsource. I extended it a little bit further on parts where the metallic was meant to be shiny because a metallic surface would very much reflect a colourful lightsource like that. So you'll see that I put some on the sword and even down his legs and a touch on the foot that he has extended. Because that was a glaze, it dulled down the original strong points that I made on the surfaces closest to the lightsource, so I went back in with straight Moth Green and touched just the edges of the closest surfaces. It's not perfect OSL by any means, but I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out, especially since it just kinda happened.......does that sort of thing happen to y'all or am I just especially weird?
  13. 77408: Athak, Undead Knight

    Wonderful work! You’ve got the colours and placement down really well for the NMM. I would work the contrast just a touch more - both a step or two darker and a step or two brighter up to pure white. Really high contrast is what sells the shine on NMM so you really want those bright glinty spots. Keep working on your blending as well and you’re going to be nailing NMM in no time! What paints did you use for his cloaks? I really like those colours a lot. I think you nailed your objective to paint a convincing bad guy in non-traditional bad guy colours. Overall it’s a beautiful colour scheme. That’s also a great looking gem and I’m going to disagree with you on the OSL - I think you did well with the glow part, what it’s missing is the source of the light which should be the brightest point to show where the glow is coming from. So instead of having black on the very insideof the visor, you’d want probably a near white colour, if not pure white. It is a small area to work with and it’s a tricky effect to get right in general but I think if you play with it a bit more, you’re going to pick it up.
  14. Here you go! Please keep in mind that my lighting is poor but I tried to get as accurate of a colour display on the swatches themselves as I could. They look a little dull compared to how they look IRL. So so I did the swatches on watercolor paper that is slightly off white so I’ve got a line of Pure Black at the top, then a line of Pure White under that. Then left to right is Prom-night Pink, Stark Naked and Morning After Blues. Below those swatches, the dots are different MSP paints that I pulled that are similar for comparison sake. Below Prom-night Pink is 09262 Blush Pink which is a very similar colour, but the obvious difference is that Prom-night Pink is on the metallic side of satin. Below Stark Naked is 09446 Pale Flesh which is very similar but just slightly more pink than Stark Naked. Below Morning After Blues is 09021 Snow Shadow which I think is slightly more on the purple side of blue whereas Morning After Blues is lighter and just slightly on the green side of blue by comparison. They’re a lot more distinct in person than they’re showing up here.
  15. Kingdom Death: Monster 2

    Well I can’t like that! Hopefully you’ll get yours soon!