• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation


About lazylich

  • Rank
    Rabble Rouser
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

122 profile views
  1. Live

    It kinda depends on your play style and workflow for preparation. If you want to set up a whole dungeon level on your table in advance you're going to need a larger area (and time to prepare and build). However, there's nothing wrong with setting up a room or two on the fly and tearing it down for the next encounter, and that takes less stuff. If you have a fairly improvisational game this is pretty natural. Granted that style requires some mid-game setup time, but it works better if you don't have a ton of space, money, or have players that tend to run off in unexpected directions. My own game tends to be relatively on-the-fly, so we play like this. It also helps if you can't leave the setup built on the dining room table from session to session. However, you're still going to want at least 2-3 square feet and have enough of all of floors, corners, and walls to have a fair amount of variety and complex geometry in the room or two you build. There is nothing more frustrating that running out of corners.
  2. fulfilling

    I had one bottle red liner missing, and I couldn't find a part number either - no 3 digit number on the KS image and no paint SKUs in the leaflet in the box. I included the paint number from the image in my email, though. I just mailed last night so it'll probably be a while before I hear from them. (edit) vvv Great, that's the number I included in my mail. vvv
  3. Live

    Has anybody posted a spreadsheet for totalling up what you'd get with various pledge levels and addons? I seem to recall backers doing these for their campaigns in the past. I find DF KSs confusing, and this one's the worst in that respect. (I admit I have the attention span of a squirrel who found of bag of espresso beans and their campaign page is... arduously long.)
  4. The patches of different colored scales on the body are really clever way to combine the 5 colors and suits the backstory. It's like a calico!
  5. Nice job, that model's high on my list as well. The Stoneskull expansion might be my favorite expansion out of all the KSs.
  6. Oh that's a much better example.
  7. I don't have a picture immediately handy, but I did a base once with some resin water where I airbrushed the edges of the area to fill with resin with a gradient so that it matched the color of the ground at the edge and faded to black as you go into the middle of the water. That gives it that out of focus look as it goes deeper into the water. I imagine the effect would be improved if you had detail near the water's edge that faded out, and had a color gradient as well as shade so that deeper areas were more green/blue than shallow areas. There might be some layering going on as Doug suggests, but it might just be a painted gradient on a stepped model. Edit: Found my old showoff thread. The paint job on the frog is a bit garish, the water effect is a bit further down in the thread where I posted about making a base for the model. It's not spectacular, but it wasn't that hard either and hopefully illustrates the basic idea.
  8. Cool colors, more color variation than mine.
  9. Great, very helpful info... I'll probably keep relying on triads a lot but I should start taking another look at the HD paints I've got and try them out more.
  10. Froghemoth is at the top of my list of Bones 3 I kind of regret not getting, despite getting too much...
  11. My inaugural Bones 3 paint, the Iron Golem (menacing Sir Forscale that I got from either a paint-and-take at PAX or a learn-to-paint kit, can't remember which). I'm not sure it really comes out in the picture, but I started with black/gray zenithal priming layers, airbrushed a not-too-thick layer of a bright metallic over it, dark wash, and then heavily shaded it with pure black glazes (there's supposed to be some left/right shading with the glazes, but it doesn't show well in the pictures I don't think). Then touched all the gouges with the metallic again, and painted the optics and vents with red and orange, on the assumption that iron golems are powered by some kind of eldritch furnace internally. (Sir Forscale was splashed with whatever bright primary color was close at hand, like you do when you're a complete noob at a paint-and-take, and I hope I got the right SKU from the list that came with my shipment.)
  12. I backed the Rath holders but haven't been fulfilled yet, looks like the original estimate was October for mine...
  13. Me too, but despite fixing minis to a holder (bottle top or something) I can't seem to avoid putting clumsy gorilla fingers on minis before they get sealed. I didn't really mean to cause a prep/priming derail, I was mostly wondering how I should think about using HD paints besides using them for dense base coats. I hadn't thought about coverage for red/yellows and I have had that hassle, so I will try that.
  14. Mostly I had paint coming off of sharp points on things like armor spikes. Sometimes it works, but I just got into the habit of priming to get reliable consistent results. Maybe you wash your Bones better than I do...
  15. Do the HD paints come in triads, or at least have groups that work well for shadow/base/highlight? I have a couple of older MSP HD starter sets, but they mostly seem to be saturated base coat colors and since getting a bunch of MSP paints, I've generally used the triads for shading and highlighting purposes. Maybe its a crutch but I haven't really learned my color theory and I'm a bit green deficient in my vision (obviously painting was a great choice of hobby), so having triads has been sort of an easy cheat for getting a range of colors that work well together. I'm the opposite of buglips - I rarely mix paints, and usually just to interpolate within a triad. As a result I haven't used HD paints much, or expanded my collection of them, and just used the MSP sets. I did try HD paints for base coating Bones because of their density, but after problems with durability I've gone to always priming. So the question is when should I be using HD paints and what am I missing out on?