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TaleSpinner last won the day on September 27

TaleSpinner had the most liked content!

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About TaleSpinner

  • Rank
    Sculptor of Stories
  • Birthday 08/05/70

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lakeville, MN
  • Interests
    Sculpting, painting, things outdoors, et. al.

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  1. Getting to Know You ... December Edition

    Ate the dry dog food. It is actually pretty good. Also, on long trips, my sister and I would ride in the bed of our pick-up. The truck had a topper, and my dad built benches and a table for us. There were no restraints of any kind. Went all the way from WI to WY and back and a trip to MO as well. Had we been rear-ended, we'd be dead.
  2. Getting to Know You ... December Edition

    Coffee with cream and sugar, preferably in the form of Creme Brulee creamer.
  3. Starfinder PC

    IMHO, if you can learn to do it from a midtone from the get-go, you will be better off long term, as you will develop better contrasts and have a better feel for it. There is a reason that most of the pro-painters I know who highlight and shade (as opposed to wet-blending), start at the mid tones. It is also mostly essential to start at midtone when doing TMM (essentially my TMM and my normal painting are now the same technique; the only thing that changes is the addition of metallic paint at two steps of the process).
  4. Starfinder PC

    Yeah, I did my models dark to light from 2002 to 2015. Dalth, it may be easier for you to control things, as you only have to worry about going in one direction. The models do tend to be darker done that way. I switched after talking to @Wren (Rhonda Bender) at ReaperCon one year, where she noted that you get a lot more contrast doing it from the center. It also works better with the glaze method I am using now. I can show you both methods in January and you can decide which fits you best.
  5. Morghot various stuff and project

    Welcome to the Reaper Forums. Well done. He looks very good. There are a few points to work on, but you've got a gift. His face is especially excellent. I can tell you put a lot of work into it. Most of your anatomy is spot on. I especially like that you gave him a flabby belly. The armor, boot, straps, and rivets all look good and quite crisp and tight. A few things to consider for your next sculpt: - You have the tricep on his left arm attaching to him at the wrong spot. You have it going to the front of the armpit, it actually attaches at the back to the edge of the shoulder blade. The pectoral muscles attach to the arm from the front where you have the tricep. This arrangement is what forms the armpit. Tricep attachment: Pectoral Attachment: - The fingers are essentially tubes at this point, without well defined joints and planes. When you lay out a hand, a good practice is to lay it down like a mitten first, working in the general shape. Next sculpt in the three flat planes of the fingers, ensuring that the joints are ridges and the bones are flat planes. Then, using a knife, separate the mitten in half and each half in half, forming the fingers. Touch them up and add the details of the knuckles and fingernails. Add a very thin strip of putty across the knuckles on the hand. Blend it in and use it to build-up those knuckles a bit more. - The fur, is ropey and too even. To do fur/hair, define regions of hair flow in the putty first, then use an edged tool to slice in the hair, using short pulling strikes with the direction of the hair. Flick some out and add variability and flow to the hair. (This is something I have always had difficulty describing. I should make a video of making the different hair types someday.) - On the jerkin, under his right arm, the green stuff putty doesn't blend well into the lighter putty. To get a smoother blend from wet putty onto cured putty, use a burnisher (tiny curved spoon shaped tool). Use the curved surface, pulling it from the wet putty onto the cured. The goal is to pull it down until it is about a molecule thick. Pull it out, then smooth it with your finger or clay shaper. Then repeat this process until it is smooth. - The edges of his kilt are not will defined and the wrinkles don't flow quite right. I recommend getting the book Dynamic Wrinkles and Drapery by Hograth as an excellent resource for getting fabric flow right. I'm impressed by you work. Keep it up! You apologized for you English, which is quite good. If you don't mind sharing, what is your native language? (I'm a linguist and am always curious about such things. I love language. ) Andy
  6. Starfinder PC

    What kind of phone do you have? @Doug Sundseth might have some ideas for you in getting better shots. IIRC he's the resident photo master.
  7. Reapercon 2018 Enthusiasm and Chatter

    I was filling out my desired vacation on my 2018 calendar. I got to the week I reserve for ReaperCon and realized that I am already really missing you guys. Only 10.5 months to go*...get those entries going! * or so, since we don't actually know when it is yet.
  8. Starfinder PC

    You picked a good color for highlighting. Blue is one of the easiest to develop good highlights. One tip for learning to highlight and shade better: turn your photos into black and white so you can more easily see the shadows and bright points. Then reproduce what you see in the pictures in the paint. I often take photos of a mini I am about to paint with forward zenithal lighting after priming. These I make black and white and use then throughout the painting process to check my highlight and shadow placement. I also print a couple out and use them to test color combinations. They also let me check to see if any areas need additional polishing, smoothing, and filling. Here are the pictures I used with Coraline:
  9. Getting to Know You ... December Edition

    The scent of Spring right after the snow melts.
  10. Putty and Tools For A Newbie

    There's a bit of genius here. I'd never even thought to try this. I will now. I often want clay shapers in different shapes or sizes than are commercially available. Not sure why I never thought of this. My hat's off to you!
  11. Rottweiler Grav Tank for my IMEF

    What program are you using? It looks almost like Creo.
  12. Swapping Weapons

    @Froggy the Great wrote a great article about how to do just this in The Craft: What to do When the Quartermaster Just Doesn't Understand You
  13. Golem Hired Muscle - Finished

    Best bet to get hired by Reaper, is to attend ReaperCon and get your work seen by the other sculptors (Gene, Bobby, Jason, Chris Lewis, and Kevin especially since you are digital) and talk to Ron in person. I wouldn't be recommending this if I didn't think you were already good enough. I'd recommend some other companies, but all of the other lines I work for hire analog sculptors exclusively.
  14. wet palette

    Hmmm, I just thought of something. What is the length of your typical paint session? I very seldom paint for more than 1 to 2 hours at a time and clean the palette after each session. Does paint session time have a bearing on this?
  15. wet palette

    Well, first I use a humidifier in my studio in the winter. Second, I mix enough paint in each well to fill it at least halfway. If I need to leave it, I mist the area lightly with a water from a spray bottle and put the cover on the palette. Finally, I am really good at telling exactly how thick my paint is on my brush. If it is too thick, I just mix in a little water. My problem with a wet palette is that it adds water over time, and I can't take water out of the paint, so I have to add paint to thicken it and that is a PITA when I was mixing a color on the fly in the first place.