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rollcast

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About rollcast

  • Rank
    Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Fly fishing, gaming, games, sci-fi stuff, you know - the usual.
  1. Goremaw . . . in SPACE!

    Ha. Wormhole. LOL. As requested... Plus a free X-Wing upgrade - any ship whose movement template or base overlaps Goremaw or any ship model which comes in contact with Goremaw rolls 2 attack dice and is assigned damage shown.
  2. Goremaw . . . in SPACE!

    Ha. Wormhole. LOL.
  3. Goremaw . . . in SPACE!

    I'm just really proud of this, my first work with an airbrush ever. Maybe it's not the best skill & craft work out there for finishing a figure, but I think I win some points for originality. What I learned... Sometimes, inspiration comes when you think your finished (my son said "I thought you were going for a nebula") Sometimes, your wife says "It needs something iridescent" when you think you're done and she's right. Sparkling Amethyst on the spines Airbrushing means mixing and getting your consistency exactly right - I got lucky on my first try Airbrushing base colors is insanely fast, uses almost no paint and produces something much more even than I could dry-brushing Dry brushing is great for aging/leathering a piece - airbrushing is all about consistency of coverage. Trying to add red-shifted & blue-shifted stars to the star field looked like birthday cake sprinkles. Nature always has better color schemes than I can come up with on my own. I still need to figure out how to layer/thin/build up my colors. After initial airbrushing with Violet Shadow and Clear Magenta and maybe a mix with aged bonne for the belly. First pass at layering for the spikes. I've got some learning to do. Another angle at the "ready for detailing" stage. My son said "nebula" and I broke out the clear blue and thinned it, but probably not enough. Here's the "finished" product. I detailed so many stars in the blue areas. Then my wife said "iridescent" and I added Sparkling Amethyst to the spines. It's a great touch and highlights the raised part of the body instead of leaving it the same as the rest. For scale against another recent work, my lizardman army.
  4. There are some stunning photos of this figure in the inspiration gallery - mine is very much in progress, but if you're tackling him, don't miss this detail on his back.
  5. Thanks guys - I'm learning tons on the forums and on youtube - I actually did this dragon just a few weeks ago and look at it now sort of wishing I had known more. Oh well - there's always rubbing alcohol if it gets to be too disappointing. My proudest work so far is in the show-off forum. My bugbadger is my masterpiece so far. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/63909-bugbadger-if-he-kills-it-he-wears-it/ I really love painting and wish I could work in alot more. Sometimes, I see someone's work and I'm inspired, sometimes crushed. I also really appreciate the encouragement on the forums. So many places where the keyboards of the internet are unfettered just get draining.
  6. Sorry for the long delay on this answer - didn't see the post. For me, Krylon Colormaster Primer dries really well. I usually spray very light coats, maybe two or so, depending on the angles I need to hit. I use black primer (not flat paint). It's dry to the touch in just a few minutes, but read the cure time on the can - I think it's 24 hours. I usually prime mine and walk away for a day or more. I learned to paint long ago using black paint on metal. When I got my first bones, I went to the garage and found a can of the Krylon sitting there - black primer. It wasn't a scientific decision or years of experience that made the decision - just the can I had available. But as to stickiness - no, the base coat is probably the least sticky time in the figure's life. The acrylics I use create a sort of sticky feel. I haven't tried any kind of sealer or flat clearcoat. If anyone has any suggestions in that department, i'm all ears.
  7. Bugbadger - If he kills it, he wears it

    What's funny is, my son bought the figure and said "Dad, paint him brown. Bugbears are brown." I disobeyed a direct order.
  8. Bugbadger - If he kills it, he wears it

    A little better view of the colors. My favorite detail for some reason is the dryng blood on the bandage on his knee. The badger lines down the back make the character though. In game, this guy will be a sort of mean Chewbacca, I'm thinking.
  9. Bugbadger - If he kills it, he wears it

    this guy was my inspiration animal.
  10. This is bugbear has been reimagined as a bugbadger. He wears the scales of a young dragon, a loincloth made from a tiger pelt, and a wolf's tail adorns his spiked club's handle. I cannot wait until my group sees this guy land on the table.
  11. Baugi, I agree - something needs to happen on the pale bits. There's no look of use there. I wanted to honor the white fin edge of the brook trout - originally, I planned to hit the trailing edge of the wings with a white edge, but talked myself out of it. Do you have an example of the coloration you're talking about? Darkening toward the tips like the top ones on this guy? Or more like this?
  12. Sure - I'm no expert, so I'm looking for advice. I'd love to get more realistic, but maybe my vision & hands just won't let me.
  13. I'm getting back into painting after an 18 year break (finally raised a kid who likes D&D). I've painted a few figures in my time, but tend to avoid larger pieces. I try to imagine creatures or people in real settings before I paint them. I love science, so I want to wrap my head around the biology of a creature or the environment of an adventurer. I guess I like something in fantasy that anchors me to reality. So when I started Ebonwrath (bones) I couldn't get the brook trout out of my head. It's my favorite fish and I think its blend of color and pattern is very fetching. Basecoat/Texture I always start with a black basecoat. For Bones, I use Krylon ColorMaster Black Primer. Once cured, I dry brush white acrylic "against the grain" to pop the details that are hard to spot on a monocolored figure. Software Pre-paint Using the image above, I begin my color scheming in Paint Shop Pro on my PC. I usually add a transparent raster layer to the image, adjust its opacity and start "airbrushing" colors until things look roughly satisfactory. This step saves me from getting halfway into a paint and breaking out the rubbing alcohol and toothbrush to start over. I hate starting over. Acrylics and Water do the rest My first hour was spent with the wings. I used 4 colors on my palette, an avocado, a burnt orange, a burgundy and a dusty pale green. I would crossdip my #6 flat brush into one or two colors, blend a bit on my palette and start painting the wings. As the paint dried, I'd add water where I wanted to avoid hard lines. Then, I finished up with a black wash (acrylic & water) applied and blotted off as needed to get shadow & grain visible again. Then I followed by covering the whole body with the avocado color, present in much of the body of the brook trout. The belly scales were the "Light Leaf Green" and another black wash. When done, the paint just looked ordinary so I had another inspiration. The eastern fence lizard's iridescent blue belly & throat. Finished product? - I need your advice Here's where I'm at. Have I made the right choices? Is there something I should improve?
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