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About anab0lic

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  1. anab0lic

    NMM failure

    Is smooth blending really the key with NMM? I'm no expert, still learning myself, but I've heard a lot of painters say not to go smooth as it takes away from the extreme contrast you need to make it look real... If you look at actual metalic objects around you there it is very sharp transitions where the there is reflection of light and other objects surrounding it (shadows) off the surface.
  2. anab0lic

    Question about layering acrylics

    Hmm I'm not entirely sure what you mean by feathering it as applying the layer? I am wondering if i were to reduce my dilution layers and apply it on so the transition lines lines are visable then go back over those lines once its dried with thiner layers of the necessary colour to blend the lines might be an easier way for me to work...
  3. Ok, so I'm trying to get good at layering paints so i can create smooth transitions between highlights/base/shadows and I'm using using paints that are quite diluted to do so approx 2:1 water to paint for reaper paints and about 3:1 for vallejo and other brands (since they are a bit thicker) as any less diluted i seem to get very noticeable lines between the colours. The problem I'm having is as I go around the model applying layers this way, i need to be on each layer applying it beyond where the previous layer started right? But when you apply layers this thin it isnt always possible to see where the previous one was applied, unless you have really good memory or only work on a few areas at a time how do you know where the next layer should begin... hope I explained that well enough to get some good answers!
  4. with the cost of these things i dont fancy being the lab rat for this experiment xD
  5. ^^ Ok great, I'll pick up both see how I get on. :)
  6. arclance Which is the super sculpey you mixed 1:1 with the firm grey stuff? Is it the super sculpey beige? Theres quite a few different types, want to be sure i get the right stuff....
  7. Guys be careful doing the freezer trick, I tried it with green stuff, .... it must have only been in the freezer about 15 mins and when I went to pull it off the mould, some of the resin came off with it ... was only a tiny speckle but yeah.... just a heads up. I'm gonna put an order in for some super sculpey, My green stuff attempts havent really come out as sharp/crisp as id like and those pictures above look much better!
  8. Hey guys, So I am somewhat new to painting and decided a few months back to invest into the reaper range of paints as one of the biggest problems i was having was knowing which colours to use for my base,shadows and highlights and the reaper triad system has helped me a lot with that. However, I am now realizing that if i want to take my painting to the next level, I am going to at times need to create further contrast between the highlight and shadows, but unsure which colours to mix into the shadow and highlight colors to achieve this. Does such a guide exist anywhere? If not do you think we could maybe create one here for the 60 or so triads? Would be a great reference for new painters like myself.
  9. anab0lic

    Your favorite Youtube channels

    Its worth checking out some of the painters who are live streaming on twitch from time to time too. Check out the creative channel. I have been enjoying this guys stream quite a lot lately, gives out lots of good advice, has lots of painting experience. http://www.twitch.tv/hysteriayard
  10. I have seen that happen as well.One thing you can do is let the putty cure enough that it stiffens up some but is not completely set before trimming the excess. If you do that it will not be pulled out of shape as much when you trim it. You could also let it set completely and trim it then. 100% Green Stuff should be soft enough to trim with a sharp knife at this point. Things that set hard like Apoxie Sculpt could be trimmed with a saw of some kind at this point. You might need to sand the edge a litte to clean up the saw marks depending on what you use to make the cut. I have been thinking of using my scroll saw to trim hardened bases myself but I have not tired it yet to see how well it works. Makes sense, my first time using green stuff, so wasnt really sure about the hardening times and such. I'll let it set a little then trim and see how that goes, might try the putting it in the freezer trick too. I'm curious about how some of the other mentioned sculpting clay in this thread might work too.... going to have to pick some up at some point and give it a try!
  11. anab0lic

    Your favorite Youtube channels

    I don't think he uploads anymore but SchnauzerFaceMinis has some good airbrush stuff.
  12. anab0lic

    Books on Color Theory

    Picked up this book recently, glad I did, its pretty great. Also Figopedia by Jeremie Bonamant is another good one
  13. So I'm having trouble to get this stuff working with 25mm bases for infinity. The problem im having is once Ive pressed the mould into the green stuff attached to the base... I always have excess around the edges and trying to trim it away puts the mould out of shape, no matter how carefully i Try to remove it. What's the solution here wait till it sets then cut it away?
  14. Hey guys, I'm fairly new to painting miniatures and two of the table top games Ive decided i want to get into are Malifaux and Infinity. If you have any experience with the miniatures from these games you will know they are very small.... Ive spent a good amount of time watching tutorials on youtube of experienced painters to try and get a good understanding of how to paint well... a lot of the techniques though are on models that have a lot more surface area to apply things like layering and highlights and such... I mean the faces on some of these models are so small I'm not even sure its possible to paint the eyes... Any tips for getting models with parts as tiny as this looking nice would be greatly appreciated...
  15. Any reason why i cant set up a second account if i want more than 3 pads?