DaemonDoesMinis

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About DaemonDoesMinis

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  1. Bit of progress today.... couldnt decide on a color scheme. Oddly I decided to go against everything I like and use cool blue colors. Thoughts and critiques of course are more than welcomed.
  2. back to the wizard while i await parts to make base pulse light. Not much done just starting skin and hair. As Pingo mentioned where i'd left off seemed like a pre line/shade... so i wanted to see if i could capitalize on that using thinner paint layers than I usually do. So this is about 3 layers of vallejo basic skintone, lightly applied with a water dipped brush for skin on the head (2-3 layers in the hands) and same of vallejo white and grey primer 2:1 mix for the hair.
  3. Pragma, Go with the red if you are looking for lava highlights.... mine came in today the pics are of ONE red led. vs the 8 white i had in there. pics are and on off comparrison w/the one red led with my filter as dark as i could get it...my plans have changed Chanzon 10 pcs High Power Led Chip on Board 3W Red (400mA-500mA / DC 2V-2.4V / 3 Watt) Super Bright Intensity SMD COB Light Emitter Components Diode 3 W Bulb Lamp Beads DIY Lighting
  4. To be quite honest its been over ten years since electronics were part of my job and as a close inspection of that soldering and wire will tell you i'm out of practice. So i have been doing things by the seat of my pants, thought to action, for pretty much all of it. But you asked so here goes: I wanted smaller focused pure white LED's (link below to LED's i've used in pics) to focus in the "runes". Not RGB white because they always have a blue tint to it. Plus the linked ones had easily accessible solder points. Which ever you chose try not to mix and match led types. it will give you more options and less hassle in the long run. What you need to decide off the top is how many LED's you need and how much voltage you will need to run them. for example if you have four 3 volt LEDs... if you wire them in series you will need at least 12 volts of power. If you wire them in parallel you can use 3volts to power them all BUT if using batteries (as i have done) wiring parallel will drain the battery MUCH faster as the Amperage draw is much higher. which is why i am thinking of going from a 3 volt 2033 flat battery to an A23 type 12volt cell battery. Either way you decide to use, you probably will need a resistor (or more if you want to be supper protective) to protect the led or have it function properly. i have linked a good article on leds for beginners below also, as i wont pretend to be a good teacher or subject matter expert. but it gives you the formulas to figure out resistance needed, the information you need to know about your led, and practical examples. bear in mind though that the current requirements will be different than your standard radio shack leds for example instead of the 20mA current need for radio shack leds mine are 350mA so make sure you have all the information about the leds you use. As to how i placed them in the base. i used a sharpe to put black points on the underside where the runes were on the top of the base. then transferred the pattern to a wood block and laid out the led's in a way that would allow them to fit in the space but also allow for wires of opposite polarity to cross as little as possible. i then made marks on the block indicating + & - leg placement so that when inevitably i moved the assembly i could reposition it correctly or bend/desolder on the block as needed. i didn't have a lot of small gauge wire so i stripped the one i did from its insulator to save space except where the polarities cross. I intend to hot clue this in place once i've settled in placement and finally assembly, so it shouldn't move and the other bare wires should not make cross contact. still not sure if its what i'm using i have some red leds i want try as well first. hope thats what you wanted to know :) sorry post is quick and dirty but short time and phone typing :)) 20 Pcs Pure White Light SMD LED Bead Chip Bulb Lamp 3.0-3.6V 350mA 1W https://www.google.com/amp/www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-for-Beginners/%3Famp_page%3Dtrue
  5. You know... thats a good idea... i may leave the base where the model can be placed in and out just for that effect you mentioned. Roll for inspiration my friend! Thanks!
  6. lil bit of soldering in position and i think i have the leds close enough on the runes.... done for the night back to painting next time!
  7. not much time today so I'm still on the base... trying a focused light on the bases runes... still fidling...proably need to fit at least 6 leds in here of this type... got it down to a 3 volt source though. hoping to adapt tealite base for easy on off.
  8. ....Ever had one of those "Ah Haa!" moments. All i have is 12volt but I think i can fit it all in any way. Is that cheating?
  9. ok so i dont have titanium white or burnt umber. what i do have is army painter matt white and vallejo umber wash. Taking Pingo's details to heart, after coating over with the matt white I started appying a very much further diluted umber wash over the model not much in the way of coverage but staying the course of diluted wash i continued ... for about 4 more coats (2nd set of pics) after which i decided to be more liberal with the wash as it was, still a touch watered down from the wet pallet. three coats of that and i decided, if nothing else comes of it i think this (to me any way as it stands) looks like a good way to create a statue or "turned to stone" look. Because thats what it puts me in the mind of right now. The pictures might not do my stone opinion justice as looking at them first hand. We'll see what it does for the colors. As always any thoughts are appreciated
  10. Thanks for the suggestion! You echo what i've been thinking about the state of the red as is... yeah i know ... its cliche as all hell to do red and black or dark colors but well ... yes i like the colors (a little to much really) ... but this demon summoning felt like a red aura he's not in his element but is definatley a more balrog-esk demon... so blue or any other color seemed wrong to me. Also thats why these are trials or experiments i want to see if i can make it look how it does in my head or if it fails completely. But i do agree with the different colors for magic. And since new to d&d as much as painting i am probably "doing it wrong" by the book strictly speaking. Hmmm, you make a good point ... a little less dramatic and more k.i.s.s. (keep it simple stupid) That bears considering!
  11. yeah basically the full figure is a demon (of course) i saw the base runes as the remains of the summoners attempts at containment that have just failed spectacularly... and actually when i saw how the light naturally highlighted the center with a kind of yellow to white tone i was actually thinking of what you suggested in a way, just very muted, not a fire kind of yellow to white just a "bright spot" kind if way. If you want to replicate i used army painter's "pure red" color primer and vallejo's "black" suface primer so far. Though the more i look at it the more i want the red to be ... brighter almost neonish ... for the effect i'm looking for... we'll see if i get it right.
  12. So, finally getting started on some of the ideas i had from the replies in my last post and some techniques that will be BLATANTLY ripped off from posters of said ideas (thanks and sorry in advance Pingo if i butcher your technique in the tweaking of it). For our campaigns end game battle i found a model i thought would fit the bill. Its base has some almost rune patterns that i wanted to pop and be seen. i'm not looking for lava because ... that doesnt fit to me with something that has been "summoned", but i want high contrast of what i'm sure will be the stone floor of the secret chapel deep inside the high lord of the city's keep. Dry brush seemed like a good way of doing it but i am a time pressed individual so i was looking for a way to do that at faster pace than with a brush. i thought high density foam roller... but that wasnt right for the surface but i picked up some cheap foam brushes from Walmart tore off the side down to a manageable width and went for broke... dont think it turned out bad so far. I still intend to make the higher stones actually look like the stone floor than the blacked charcoal they look like now with some dark grey - white transition. But i think i will leave the charcoal look for the lower more central... not completely sure yet. My biggest issue is still knowing when the hell to STOP applying... someone once said "paintings arent finished, they escape" and so far i dont think any of mine have got out in time. Next up in this trial run is a wizard mini for my son that i want to try Pingo's initial priming technique on... this should be interesting
  13. I agree with what you say. Lol, in fact its why i painted it the way i did... i figured it being a wizard and magic and not exactly physical battle trained (contrary to what the figure would imply, that of a kind of battle mage) that he would naturally focus the energy to the tip of his sword (and being a level 4 ... not that well or large of a spot to begin with) assuming that it should be the focal point... the darker (and cooler by fire standards) colors are accurate as they are further away from the hottest point. But thats just how I envisioned him. if it were an actual flame from the hilt type of sword I would have painted it the way you suggested. Love the input, I liked fleshing out the reasoning behind the choice
  14. Well campaign starts saturday and wont have time to paint friday... so some quick clear coat and this is the trio. Guess we'll see how well they hold up in play. Thanks for all the advice guys. defiantely using the suggestions in here. more minis and ideas large and small in hand. Like say for instance ... BASES!! lol
  15. tried a black vallejo wash on the majority and sephia on the hair and face. trying my idea of a few highlights on the brown so far.... but hit that wall so will hit it again tomorrow