Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

291 NPC

About DragonWyrm

  • Rank
    Rabble Rouser

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. DragonWyrm

    Oni of Hate - beginner

    For working with gold a good idea is to underpaint it a brownish red (venetian red/ red iron oxide). This was traditionally used in gilding since it hid any small imperfections. Personally I don't like metalic paints and prefer using nmm or liquid gold by vallejo.
  2. DragonWyrm

    03681 Nazera Bloodraven, Vampire

    If you want white which isn't chalky I recomend Zinc white (artist paint). Thought it is very transparent and has terrible tinting strength. Just don't use it with oil paint.
  3. DragonWyrm

    Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

    Too me it looks like the Female Frost Giants are a WIP of the sculpt (look at the detail on wolf, you can see it is unfinished). With the caribou it would limit the usability of the figure (eg using the giants as a normal sized human for bigger scales) yet the caribou does add character, so I am undecided if I prefer it with or without the animal.
  4. DragonWyrm

    Black Rose Wars

    Necromancer, where does it say it is with ubisoft approval? I only see "official authorization pending".
  5. DragonWyrm

    Anno Domini 1666

    Lets see: - The three musketeers - Characters from Ogniem i Mieczem (with fire and sword). Seems fun.
  6. DragonWyrm

    01448: Elf Ranger Flat

    I finally finished my Elf Ranger Flat, I found it a joy to paint.
  7. DragonWyrm

    Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

    Personally I don't like how the scabbard for the lady of hell is on the same side as she is holding the sword. Realisticly that would mean that she either did some really impressive twists and turns to draw the sword or she switch hands after drawing it.
  8. DragonWyrm

    Tools of the Trade

    vs. artist grade paint (I prefer artist grade paint, cleaner mixes) Oil Vs Acrylic (I found that a lot of websites completly ignore that oils are still used on miniatures) Artist mediums (e.g. liquitex glaze medium) Varnishes (matt, satin, gloss, spray vs brush on, artist vs hobby) Wet pallet (making your own, difference between sponge and wipes) Colour Theory (important!!!) Pigments in Artist Paint (e.g. PW6: Pigment White #6: Titanium White)
  9. Pingo, when I said that zinc white helps the film strength I was only talking about a small amount being added to titanium white (i read it in some article but can't find it right now, it may have been something about drying). I know that premium grade Michael Harding oil colours titanium whites contain zinc, from his website: Personaly I don't use lead white because my workspace is next to the dinning room table. But when I was at a demonstration/talk by Michael Harding I did get to play around with his Stack Lead White (which has the lead pigment handmade using a traditional method, this actually changes its properties). Once again quoting M.H.: Supposedly it is what allowed Rembrandt to get the textures he got. It was an interesting experience. On a different note, when I was working with the metalic mediums I was reminded why I prefer the Liquid Gold range from vallejo for my metalic needs.
  10. Pingo, Golden sells zinc white (I have it in the 59ml tube). Yeah, never brought any zinc white for oil paints. Thought I read somewhere that small amounts added to titanium white actually helps the film strenght or something similar (that is why some oil titanium white paints have zinc pigment inside them). I brought zinc white to experiment with, using it as a glaze (scumble?) on some dragon wings I was working on at the time. Recently I found that I enjoy the skin mixes it produces. Overall I find I like working with transparent colours, so I use zinc white for mixes which I will use in glazes.
  11. DragonWyrm

    OneBoot Experiments with SHINY Paints!

    Lets see a quick test: There is a difference between the titanium and the the zinc, but I would need to experiment with the ratios and see how it looks on the miniature. It is important to note that zinc white is transparent, and therefore has terrible coverage (I diluted my titanium white heavily). On the bottom part of each sample I glazed it with the medium, this gave the best results.
  12. DragonWyrm

    OneBoot Experiments with SHINY Paints!

    Hmm.. I wonder how zinc white would work with metalics. I will go and test it now!
  13. DragonWyrm

    OneBoot Experiments with SHINY Paints!

    You could also glaze the metalic medium over the pink. Thats how I used my Iridescent medium.
  14. DragonWyrm

    02682: Selmarina, Witch OSL project

    Hmm, I like how the last picture looks (the back of her). For the front of her, it looks like you went a little to far with the orange, you may want to deepen the shadow on the side with the staff. Personally I would add some cool dark purple under the chin, as well as into the creases of the robes, the knee and the lower leg (all on the staff side). More purple or purplish brown would be used for the staff shadows (opposite side of the orb). But what do I know, I don't paint OSL often. Actually I like how it came out after the orange, you just need some darker shadows and it will look fine. The metall plate she is standing on should have some sharper reflections.A little yellow here and there.
  15. DragonWyrm

    Lazylathe's painting adventures...

    I second the recomendation for brush soap (or any other brush cleaner). Personally I learned about brush sizes and types by going to an art store and looking at the brushes, then if I did not understand what a brush was I would search its name on my phone. For brushes I would recommend having a selection of cheap and expensive brushes. The sizes I like using are 1, 2 and 6 for painting. You may also find a tiny brush, for when you want to make a tiny dot (10/0 to 00) usefull. It can be used to set the location of corners for freehanding extremly small designs. Buglips I disagree with your statement about size 3 brushes. Personally I found to have had no problem using size 6 brushes when painting miniatures. A larger brush is able to hold more paint in the bristles, increasing the working time (as you allready said). The most important thing about a brush is its tip. Thought with larger brushes you may have problems reaching certain parts of the model without touching any other section, this is not that big of a disadvantage since you normally should have another brush that can do it. Overall, I find that the biggest disadvantage of larger brushes is the cost of good quality ones.