Jump to content


DragonWyrm

Members
  • Content Count

    113
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

403 NPC

About DragonWyrm

  • Rank
    Instigator

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. DragonWyrm

    Cal and Aponne

    I enjoy all the miniatures you paint. To see improvement in painting the best thing is to try new stuff, whether that be a highly limited colour pallet or a new technique. As an example you could paint a grisalisse (a value sketch in black and white) and then glaze it with multiple transparent layers of paint.
  2. DragonWyrm

    Bones Black Owlbear - 44001

    Amazing paint job on the owlbears. Is it just me or does the reaper black owlbeardance with and invisible partner?
  3. DragonWyrm

    Zest-it Brush Cleaner

    Cyradis, as a non certified doctor I must inform you that you are a pregnant. You are currently experiencing the symptom of cravings, there is no cure for the cravings. Surgery is not recommended. Buglips, the advertisment I was talking about happened years ago and it was about another of their products. When it came out the main draw of the solvent was that it was natural therefore more safe than the *not* natural turpentine (turpentine comes from trees) and synthetic mineral spirits; smelt of lemons to prove it (Zest in the name).
  4. DragonWyrm

    Zest-it Brush Cleaner

    You should certainly not lick the brush after using a harash cleaner (and the zest-it you are talking about certainly is harsh). If it disolves paint, it can probably disolve your gums, stomach lining or intestine lining. The problem that I have with Zest-it as a whole is how they advertise themselves. Natural =/= safe unlike what they would like you to believe, and in the past (not sure if it has changed) they spread misinformation when "comparing" their solvent with OMS. They "compared" the NORMAL use of Zest-it solvent with the SPRAYING of OMS, it was such a suprise that Zest it required so much less precautions. It was almost as if they did not compare two products under the same conditions.
  5. DragonWyrm

    77144: Mummy (3)

    Should have used genuine mummy brown paint from the 1900s. Made out of real mummies! It would give that authentic feeling. For a quick paint job I like them. The eyes could be made more distict with a darker colour or given some OSL to highligh them further.
  6. DragonWyrm

    Scalecolor Artist Scale75

    Yay thats good. Now all the miniature paint lines need to provide this information The lightfastness ratings don't follow any standard system (that I know of, unless its meant to be BWS in which case it is missing information) but they seem to be generally what one would expect from the pigments used; other manufacturers do similar stuff. The PY14 doesn't look to good (thought pigment techonolgy is advancing all the time so they may use a more lightfast version). How ultramarine PB29 and PV15 is not 8 I have no idea (has BWS of 8:8:8 and I ASTM, meaning it has survived more than 100 years with no fading under normal conditions and 1.5 years with no fading in direct sunlight ) The hidding power seems to imply that they used addetives to achieve it or are using a completly different system to measure opacity and transparency. (pthalos are transparent and somehow they have them marked as medium and HIGH covering power) Overall I am happy that they provided this information and apart from the points I mentioned I find no major problems with the paint line. Some people may not like the mixes but I personaly don't mind them (thought how the greys have no white... extremly dark grey or filler).
  7. DragonWyrm

    Painting in the style of ......

    Given the picture you provided as refrence I would have started with one of the reaper angels instead of lizardmen. To look more similar to the refrence style I would still push the shadows further, especially in the green. Furthermore, all the white highlights on the green (if they are not caused by the camera) would have a thin glaze of yellow. Maybe, to copy how the refrence has the extreme dark shadows away from the light source, I would paint the back of the lizardmen a lot darker, aproaching black. Post Scriptum: I am also a person inspired by Pingo's art. I looked at it and went "I want to paint similar to that", so that is what I tried to do.
  8. DragonWyrm

    Scalecolor Artist Scale75

    Well that is nice to know, I couldn't find this informatino on their website so I do hope they add it in the future or if its there, make it easier to find. But PR130 doesn't seem to be a pigment that is used in paints, based on the name I will assume that you/they meant to write PR102 which is natural red iron oxide or PR101 which is sythetic red iron oxide. Now the interesting colours. PR170: is a napthol which lightfastness is variable, but generally is a II ASTM (not the best but still suitable for artistic use) PO34: Pyrazolone Orange, pretty bad lightfastnes from what I could find, thought its not rate by ASTM. BWS (trans.) 5-6; 4-5 and (opaque) 6-7; 5-6. {BWS 8;8;8 is the best} PB15.2: Phthalocyanine Blue, strong colour use in moderation when mixing with other colours that are not pthalo. I ASTM (the best lightfastness). Seems to be a rarer Pthalo blue variation. The only colour that I disagree with is the orange chosen, all the other colours are nice with lightfastness II to I ASTM. Now for personal preferences: I am surprised they included two pthalo blues, if I was buying only from them I would have prefered the redder one to be exchanged for utramarine blue or indathrone blue. Thought since I have access to other paint manufacturers it is really nice that they used the less common pthalo. I don't like napthol reds and would have prefered a cadmium (ohh the toxicity) or pyrrole, but I understand given the cost of said pigments. As a side note you can mix yourself a red by combining yellow with magenta. Mixing a turquise is easy Pthalo Green (Blue Shade) + Pthalo Blue (Green shade).
  9. DragonWyrm

    Scalecolor Artist Scale75

    I find these and the Kimera Kolor which advertise themselves using the word "pigment" to be marketing BS since they don't tell us the actual pigment codes. A mixture of linseed/walnut/sufflower/sunflower/poppy oil (, casein, gun arabic or acrylic medium) and the dirt from my backyard is a pure pigment paint. I would just need to test the chemical composition of the dirt and depending on the elements it has the pigment code would be different (that is what umbers, ochres and siennas are). Furthermore, a mixed paint of hansa yellow light (PY 3) and Phthalo Blue Green Shad (PB 15:3 ) is still no less pure pigment than pure hansa yellow light, insead it behaves worse in mixes. Some artist and professional grade paint companies use the same marketing strategies, but they at least have the decency to tell us most of the pigments (exceptions with specialty mixtures). To me Scalecolor "Artist" and Kimera Kolor are worse than the josonja that somebody recomended, since josonja acrylic colours have the pigment information written on the tube. So far I was unable to find any of said vital information on the Scalecolor Artist or Kimera Kolor, they don't even tell us if the colour is a single pigment or a mixture (which is one of the most important things when it comes to mixing paint). The other problem with the new paint lines is that they don't provide us with lightfastness information. Both Kimera and Scale seem to advertise themselves as "artist grade" while being hobby or the worse quality student paints. The pigments do seem more finelly ground but too much information is missing and I see no point buying them over Golden, Liquitex, Winsor & Newton, Mattise and Atelier Interactive; which all provide pigment information and are available in multiple forms (heavy body, soft body, liquid, high flow). The opaque nature of the Scalecolor "Artist" paints makes me belive that they are either have extenders such as Lithopone or have titanium white added to the reds, magentas and yellows (the opaque reds and yellows are cadmiums or Mars colours, with Mars being pretty earthy.) I don't believe that Scalecolor uses the toxic cadmiums (the toxicity of modern high quality cadmium pigments can be argued against), therefore that leaves napthols, anthraquinone, lakes and pyrroles. Most are transparent or semi transparent and those that are not have terrible lightfastness or are more expensive and toxic than cadmiums. Furthermore for the magenta and purple colours the artist world uses PR122 (has an opaque version) or PV19 both of which are generally transparent, all other versions of magenta (PR202 may work but it seems to me to be a different shade) and that shade of violet have poor lightfastness or are too expensive. This result in me believing that Scalecolor uses either extenders/fillers, inferior pigments or highligh expensive pigments to achieve the opaque qualities they advertise. If you want to see some more fun pigments search: The Color of Art Pigment Database. If you want to learn more about pigments and colour mixing go to the Colour Mixing and/or Technical Forums on wetcanvas.
  10. I adore your work Pingo. "Especially the jeans"
  11. DragonWyrm

    Stonehaven Dwarves Vol. 2

    I don't know, from Stonehaven Adventurers 2018 the dwarf trapper had a tartan which retained its pattern in the metal casting. That tartan did look a little more defined than the plaid shirt, but we can always hope.
  12. DragonWyrm

    Atlantis Miniatures - Dwarf Gladiator

    Pst you missed the decorations in his beared/braid. Otherways a fantastic paint job, I love the tartan and the high contrast NMM
  13. DragonWyrm

    StoneHaven Adventurers 2018

    If anybody is interested I posted my painted pledge Here.
  14. After a while of not posting any painted pieces I present to you my pledge from Stonehaven Adventurers 2018. They have been painted using a limited palett of: titanium buff, titanium white, prussian blue, red oxide, burnt umber, raw umber and yellow ochre. They were fun to paint even if some of them are tinny. My favourite fo the bunch is the thief, I am not sure if you can see it from the photos but the base looks like water without using water effect (modelling paste and a wash of prussian blue + yellow ochre). Front: Back: The Side: Close ups: The witch: The Thief: The Tracker: The Warrior (Only one with gloss varnish): The Assassin: The Pet: An extra of the Warrior and Ferret (or one of the related species).
  15. DragonWyrm

    'Sleeping beauty'-esque scenic diorama

    "Tottaly Worth It" "Is Sleeping for a Reason" "Not Recommended"
×