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DragonWyrm

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About DragonWyrm

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  1. DragonWyrm

    10003 Dragons don't Share

    Magnificent!!! Just a reminder, don't lick the paint!!! I am happy that you found the paint pigments to your liking.
  2. DragonWyrm

    Elf guy on horse

    I had this guy done for a while, except the weather didn't really allow for a good photo. Now that the weather was somewhat better, I quickly took some. I am happy how the gems came out (thought you can't really see them in the photo). All the black was painted by washing a black and white surface with Indanthrone blue (PB60). The armour was made by using vallejo liquid metal red gold (for highlights) and copper (for shadows)
  3. DragonWyrm

    Darksword red dragon for Reapercon

    Beatiful dragon! I especially enjoy the bony plates and their contrast with the red. To answer your question about opaque bright red. I know of only a couple opaque red pigments in artist grade paint, the most famous (and most used) ones are Cadmiums (which are poisonous). Historically (currently available from limited paint manufactures at exorbitant prices) Vermilion and Minium were used. Minium is based on lead (poisonous) while vermilion is mercuric sulfide (poisonous). Minium is an orangy red, vermilion is the epitomy of red and cadmium can be most reds from the orange to dark. Napthol Red family can also be semi opaque but it varies based on type (with lightfastness being different between napthol reds). Personaly for an opaque bright red I would recommend Cadmium Red Light (PR 108) from an artist grade paint (not a hue, a hue is a mixture of pigments and in most cases it lacks the opacity of cadmium). If you want to check the opacity of artist grade paints you can always go to the website of the manufacture, they normally have swatches (these swatches show the paint: as a glaze, straight from the tube and tinted with white), and information on which pigments the paint contains. For detailed information on opacity I would recommend checking Golden paints website and looking at the reds in the heavy body range (clicking on the picture and then expanding the techinqual information should give the opacity). Further reading on red pigments can be found on: http://www.artiscreation.com/red.html#.W2QeGC17Gu4
  4. I went into Dymocks and while looking throught the bargain bin I found Dune and The Sword of Shannara trillogy. Couldn't stop myself.
  5. DragonWyrm

    Warmachine Gorgon Light Myrmidon

    Welp, I found it on sale and couldn't stop myself. I decided to make it a quick paintjob so I just used Cerluen blue and Tiatanium white for the body while using golden interference green for the gems (glazed over a basic black to white gradient). It was glazed in gloss varnish and in reall life the whites looks more white than seen in the photos. Now that it is finished I would have probably done the gems differently, colouring them all black, glazing some interference paint and then adding highlights with white. The base was made using liquitexes ceramic stucato (which is really nice for bases, even thought you can't see it here), which was given a earthy red wash. I then decided that it was too stark and that the figure would work better in a jungle, so I used some miniNature, moss, tuffs and flock to create it.
  6. DragonWyrm

    Dark Elf Ranger Flat

    I really like this figure, painting it was a learning experience. The desert version you did previously conviced me to get a copy of it, I was not dissapointed. This iterations once again does it justice. Fun ideas about how to paint the flat next time: - Invisible cloak - Light comming from down to up. - Dark forest with tiny mots of light piercing the canopy. (I tried to do this on mine but I did not fully commit, so I just changed it into subtle shades of the cloak)
  7. DragonWyrm

    Oni of Hate - beginner

    For working with gold a good idea is to underpaint it a brownish red (venetian red/ red iron oxide). This was traditionally used in gilding since it hid any small imperfections. Personally I don't like metalic paints and prefer using nmm or liquid gold by vallejo.
  8. DragonWyrm

    03681 Nazera Bloodraven, Vampire

    If you want white which isn't chalky I recomend Zinc white (artist paint). Thought it is very transparent and has terrible tinting strength. Just don't use it with oil paint.
  9. DragonWyrm

    Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

    Too me it looks like the Female Frost Giants are a WIP of the sculpt (look at the detail on wolf, you can see it is unfinished). With the caribou it would limit the usability of the figure (eg using the giants as a normal sized human for bigger scales) yet the caribou does add character, so I am undecided if I prefer it with or without the animal.
  10. DragonWyrm

    Black Rose Wars

    Necromancer, where does it say it is with ubisoft approval? I only see "official authorization pending".
  11. DragonWyrm

    Anno Domini 1666

    Lets see: - The three musketeers - Characters from Ogniem i Mieczem (with fire and sword). Seems fun.
  12. DragonWyrm

    01448: Elf Ranger Flat

    I finally finished my Elf Ranger Flat, I found it a joy to paint.
  13. DragonWyrm

    Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

    Personally I don't like how the scabbard for the lady of hell is on the same side as she is holding the sword. Realisticly that would mean that she either did some really impressive twists and turns to draw the sword or she switch hands after drawing it.
  14. DragonWyrm

    Tools of the Trade

    vs. artist grade paint (I prefer artist grade paint, cleaner mixes) Oil Vs Acrylic (I found that a lot of websites completly ignore that oils are still used on miniatures) Artist mediums (e.g. liquitex glaze medium) Varnishes (matt, satin, gloss, spray vs brush on, artist vs hobby) Wet pallet (making your own, difference between sponge and wipes) Colour Theory (important!!!) Pigments in Artist Paint (e.g. PW6: Pigment White #6: Titanium White)
  15. Pingo, when I said that zinc white helps the film strength I was only talking about a small amount being added to titanium white (i read it in some article but can't find it right now, it may have been something about drying). I know that premium grade Michael Harding oil colours titanium whites contain zinc, from his website: Personaly I don't use lead white because my workspace is next to the dinning room table. But when I was at a demonstration/talk by Michael Harding I did get to play around with his Stack Lead White (which has the lead pigment handmade using a traditional method, this actually changes its properties). Once again quoting M.H.: Supposedly it is what allowed Rembrandt to get the textures he got. It was an interesting experience. On a different note, when I was working with the metalic mediums I was reminded why I prefer the Liquid Gold range from vallejo for my metalic needs.
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