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Phoenix Rising

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About Phoenix Rising

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  1. Tips for light wood tones like natural oak/pine?

    Thanks for the start on this! Here's what I wound up with for an Oak... I'm working on DwarvenForge pieces, so the starting material is dark, not white Bonesium. Base coat in Leather Brown. Wash in Chestnut Brown, trying to get a decent coat in crevasses but not much on top. Re-wash lightly in Leather Brown - don't want too much Chestnut... I didn't have the rest of the Warm Brown triad, so followed with a liberal drybrush of 2-pt Leather Brown to 1-pt Pokorny Stone Edge (equivalent to one of the yellow bone colors I think). Highlight with Desert Sand light drybrush - liked it more than the Khaki. The result is a bit sandy compared to the image, but pretty decent; perhaps a bit more Chestnut on the wash isn't so bad... Inside of a wagon wheel for testing... For the yellower Pine, the Golden Blond looks like a good option for the first drybrush. A final wash of Leather Brown might work to yellow up the tone if that's not available.
  2. I'm wondering what people use to reproduce natural or light varnished oak and pine wood. Darker woods and weathered wood aren't too difficult with Reaper's paint selection, but I can't seem to find the right combo to get anything close to natural oak or pine - either the "neutral" light wood color of oak or the yellower tones of pine and varnished oak.
  3. 89004 - Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter

    Thanks for the feedback! Yeah... I had noticed that from others' painting and from my comparative lack of contrast in my LTP2 figures. I moonlight as a nature photographer; while eyesight is an issue for me, I'm good on colors and tend toward understatement or "natural" as much as I can get away with in the market. For figure painting, picking up the highlight/shadow levels is going to be an ongoing lesson. Hopefully I'll be reminded of that until I get it right!
  4. 89004 - Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter

    Thanks all for looking!
  5. 89004 - Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter

    Yeah - they look like mold lines, but sadly they aren't. (I did remove a couple of those - a first attempt for me, too.) I must have spent a couple of hours with various lighting and vision aids trying to figure out if they were mold lines. I even came back after I had painted to see if I was mistaken, and the feel of the brush told the same story. There's depth and detail on the far side of these spots. The visible bit in the Reaper shot is on the lower side of the left-hand ponytail between the two ties. Look at my post images; the flat spot is still visible on the front as a darker area with light lower edge, but the back shows all hair, all the time. Another spot not visible in the pictures is on the left foot; it made matching up leather vs foot a bit challenging. It's obviously not the entire figure, but where it happens it's in the same direction each time; can't really understand what happened, and it doesn't look like it was there on the metal version. Overall it's not so bad with the paint, but it wouldn't do for a display quality mini. I'm just using mine for gaming.
  6. 89004 - Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter

    Here's a much cleaner shot in sunlight. Better color balance than flash on my Lumix., and you can see some color differences much more clearly.
  7. 06023 Anhurian Swordsmen

    Nicely detailed, and simple distinguishable uniform colors - would be great on a battlefield for keeping track of a squad!
  8. 89004 - Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter

    Pathfinder goblins tend between green, brown, and gray with blue to purple tongues and orange or red eyes - definitely not a D&D goblin. I don't recall seeing any PF goblins with hair in illustrations; that's one of the zany things about this particular sculpt, and one that I like just for the hairdo.
  9. 06028 Plague Zombie

    Very plaguey! Like the axe detail.
  10. 89004 - Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter

    This is my first to-completion detailed mini outside of the three LTP-2 figures. I'm looking to start a Rise of the Runelords game and needed a warchanter figure; this one from Reaper is wonderful in its detail and goblinesque insanity. Unfortunately, I think the molds are a little off-kilter on the Bones version; there are several spots on the figure where one side butts up against a flat spot from the other half of the mold - you can even see one of them in the Reaper website image. I found myself departing from the LTP painting order and starting with "inner" areas like eyes and mouth as well as isolated details like the whip and blades. Skin and leather were left until late, with details on top of those the last. Don't know if this is a good thing or not, but I felt more sure in painting up to those areas rather than filling them in and inevitably splattering over multi-layered skin tones. Thanks to the folks at CMPA for the painting tips as I'm learning. Wish I could have been to the holiday party; finished this ravaging beauty as compensation.
  11. Thanks to an afternoon with CMPA, I have the fin repainted in yellow and the wing "fingers" in khaki. Thanks to Cyradis for a color tip for body shading; I see the way forward.
  12. If my execution matches my vision, this will be fun! I'm starting to really look forward to seeing progress in the details.
  13. Well, base coat is done. I kept it to the three allowed colors, and wasn't terribly finicky about things like wing rib, back sail, and horn/teeth/nail colors. I abandoned the #4 brush for a #0 and won't be going back there again. Maybe I'll go as high as #2 some day, but I don't know what that will do...
  14. New lighting in my basement - very good for painting! Lemon Yellow paint - not so good for basecoating; between limited opacity and the plastic's extra hydrophobic reaction to the paint, I wouldn't recommend it as a regular basecoat. Body basecoat is pretty much done (mouth excepted). Wings are undergoing extra basecoat layers to get good coverage and tone. Pictures of full basecoat by the end of the weekend. PS - as this is my first large figure and dragon, might I say that even with a #4 brush, it takes forever to paint... If it's possible, I now have even more respect for anyone who does a 7-day dragon challenge.
  15. Real Life got in my way for a bit - namely my garage painting space falling below the 40 degree mark. After a bit of experimentation (thanks to an Orc Marauder and Mangu Timur for the stand-in work for Brown and Gray Liners, respectively) I decided not to use the liners for priming. And while there are some mold lines, they aren't bad enough to trust my skills with a knife to make them better. So today I've finally managed to get most of a Khaki base coat on the body. Pictures when the base coat is done...