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Geoff Davis

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Geoff Davis last won the day on May 28

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About Geoff Davis

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    Halifax, Nova Scotia

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  1. Geoff Davis

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard

    There are a few WIP photos here: Garwin WIP After doing all the preshading, or undershading, or underpainting, or whatever the right term is, I do three layers of blending of all the colours on top of that. This is based on advice I got from watching one of Vince Venturella's Hobby Cheating videos on blending fleshtones. The layers are very thin. So, I did a thin layer of the mid tone blue, then a series of three progressively darker shade colours, followed by a series of three progressively brighter highlights. Then I painted over everything again with a very thin layer of the mid tone blue to tie it all together and improve the blending. Then I did it all over again with the same three shades and the same three highlights, only with even thinner paint and being careful to blend smoothly and not lift up any partially dried layers of paint by accident (something I have frequently been prone to do by mistake). Then I did another thin layer of the mid tone. Then I did a third layer of all the same shades and highlights. Some areas this was relatively effective, like the robe/cloak and the staff. Other areas, like the face and the scroll, it didn't work out quite as smoothly.
  2. Geoff Davis

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard

    Thanks very much for your nice comments. There is a WIP here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/81459-03157-garwin-greywand-wizard/&tab=comments#comment-1727678 I am experimenting with preshading. I lay out where all the deepest shadows will be in relation to the light source first with dark brown dark blue and some nightshade purple. Then I use light browns and blend and highlight right up to linen white before putting any colours on the figure. Then I apply thin base coats which gives me good foundation of very dark shadows and bright highlights to start working from.
  3. Geoff Davis

    03880: Phineas Greybone, Necromancer

    03880: Phineas Greybone, Necromancer sculpted by Tre Manor Overall I'm really happy with how the light effects worked out. This was a really difficult miniature to photograph. The main challenges painting him were the glowing skull and the very irregular base. I tired to make the skull stand out by making very deep purple shadows around it. I used red, orange and white glazes and appear to glow, but without making it look too orange. Making the base look dark enough was very difficult because it has a very irregular surface and every jagged edge catches the real light and makes it look brighter than I want it to in comparison to the shadow areas on the main figure. In future for a project of this type, I would use a smoother style of base so I have more control over the shadows and lighting like on the main figure. Comments and criticism are welcome.
  4. Geoff Davis

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard by Bobby Jackson Comments and Criticism welcome.
  5. Geoff Davis

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard

    Starting to feel like he's finished.
  6. Geoff Davis

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard

    03157: Garwin Greywand, Wizard sculpted by Bobby Jackson. Continuing on with practicing OSL. I started by undershading with dark brown and purple and highlighted up to linen white on his body and base. I did the same thing but with black and greys on his staff. I then added the blue for his robe, using two sets of blues. One set has no light effect colour added. The other set has the yellow added. I did the shading and highlighting on the dark side with the blues that didn't have the yellow added. I used the set with the yellow added anywhere that I thought the light was going to hit, using the undershading as a guide as to where that would be. The yellow I mixed with the blue is also used on the orb. Then I added the other colours (particularly the staff and the fleshtones) using the same approach of mixing up two sets of the colours to use side by side. Overall I'm pleased with the way it's turning out. A few of the values seem out of balance though. Particularly parts of the staff compared to the adjacent areas on his robe. Some of the flesh tones that are further away from the orb need to be darker still. The part of the staff directly below the orb seems too bright overall, especially right beneath the orb. Still a work in progress.
  7. Geoff Davis

    HOW TO POP SHOGGOTH -- Popped, thanks :D

    Heres how i would do it: Mix tiny amounts of red and white into the purple to make a series of progressively brighter tints of the purple and keep highlighting. Keep brightening the series of tints until the brightest one is practically white. Then put a very thin layer of the brightest purple you have on there right now (before adding the purple tints I described) over the whole purple area. Then repeat the process. The layers of purple will blend together but also look much brighter.
  8. Geoff Davis

    02476: Lorna the Huntress

    Thanks very much. I have been painting miniatures for a very long time (I started in 1979) but I have really only progressed in the last couple of years. I'm recently retired so I finally have the time to dedicate to it. Most importantly, over the last 6 months participating on this forum I feel like I have levelled up several times over. Access to advice, supportive comments and seeing the fantastic work of painters on this forum have all made a huge difference. I feel lucky to have found this community.
  9. Geoff Davis

    Age of Sigmar Duel Project with OSL

    Thanks very much for your comment. I've just started work on another project...might be ready for Reapercon 2019. I'm going to try not to rush myself this time.
  10. Geoff Davis

    Age of Sigmar Duel Project with OSL

    Well this was a good learning experience. I had never entered a miniature contest before and I learned quite a lot. The feedback from the store staff who were the judges was quite helpful. First thing was that deliberately painting for a contest changes the dynamic and adds a stress level to the project. I only had about two weeks to complete the project, so right off the bat I felt like I didn't have enough time. I started cutting corners almost right away which affected the final quality of the project. The main mistake was not filling cracks using greenstuff. I pre-painted most of the miniature before assembly. To avoid having to repaint areas after assembly, I didn't fill a couple of big creases. I just put a bit of glazing medium over them and called it good enough. That was a mistake and greatly affected the overall result. I also cut corners on some of the details which I am actually quite good at painting, like gems. I just didn't bother painting them up fully in favour of putting more time into the OSL. You can see the big crease in this photo: Another mistake was that I positioned the glowing effect badly relative to the two miniatures. If I had offset the glow instead of having the light be centered right between them, the overall look of the undead guy would have been much better. The position of his cloak right over the light caused a lot of unnecessary painting challenges. If the glow had been pushed slightly to the right from his perspective, it would have looked better overall for both the undead guy and the knight. I also didn't select a primary viewing angle before starting. As a result, there is no one angle from which the project 'looks best'. Trying to mix the OSL effect with the metallic paint didn't work particularly well. Any thinning of the metallic paint, including by adding the various glow colours, caused separation of the metallic particles. It's hard to see in the photos, but you can see it when you look at the miniature in person. The real light reflections combined with the artificial OSL light reflections only works from certain angles. Because the light source is below the miniature, those effective viewing angles are relatively few. What did work quite well was adding nightshade purple into the metallic colours for the darkest shade areas. It kept the overall metallic colour and blended well with the adjacent unshaded areas. It's something I'd recommend trying if you are doing TMM with a strong light source. Anyway, I'm pleased with how it turned out overall. It gave me lots of useful insight for future projects.
  11. Geoff Davis

    02476: Lorna the Huntress

    02476: Lorna The Huntress sculpted by Bobby Jackson. This is the P65 version. A bit of a speedpaint in order to try out a different tartan colour scheme. This one is based upon the Robertson Hunting Tartan.
  12. Geoff Davis

    10021, Viridius WIP

    That is one huge and beautiful beast! I cant wait to see your colour choices. Personally, I would paint the wings separately. The last metal dragon I painted I found so heavy that just holding him and turning him to paint was frustrating. I would keep the wings off both to keep the weight down and to make accessing the space around the shoulders easier.
  13. Geoff Davis

    01-106c Half-elf

    Pretty good. Down to only 15 projects as of the start of June. I'm focussed on all new projects now though. No doubt the shelf of shame will grow to humongous size again soon.
  14. Geoff Davis

    Age of Sigmar Duel Project with OSL

    Made quite a bit of progress. Almost ready to add the light colours.
  15. Geoff Davis

    Age of Sigmar Duel Project with OSL

    I found the missing in-progress pictures of the base. I made it out of yellow milliput. The grey square is where I incorporated the plastic base of the wight. I've been working a lot more than expected in the last week, so my progress on this painting project has been slow. It's unfortunate that I only found out about the painting contest a short while ago. My project may have been too ambitious to get it done in time. I have five days of painting time left, including the remainder of today. I've learned a few things already which will be really helpful for future projects. First one is that I haven't assembled a plastic model kit in at least 20 years. Both of these figures were multi-piece with lots of fine detail on very soft plastic. You can't handle this stuff roughly like you can a metal miniature, they damage very easily. They both also needed to be almost completely painted before final assembly, otherwise reaching the inner recesses would be impossible. This makes working out the OSL highlighting very challenging. The knight is now fully assembled and doesn't look too bad. The metallic parts are done, but everything else still needs highlighting and the addition of the lighting colours. The wight is not assembled, he's just held together by hope and a bit of tape. He has some very deep crevices which light can reach into that mean I can't assemble him until almost all the painting is done. I may have an aneurism trying to figure out the lighting on the part of his cloak which is extended out above the rune.
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