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CaesarAnto

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About CaesarAnto

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  1. using airbrush primers as brush-on?

    hi, are you referring to the product I posted? (I may be missing some links/photos) in case you're using that, do you have any problems when priming metal in terms of adherence? I've read somewhere that polyurethane primers tend to chip off (I'm already using Vallejo's Game Color White brush-on Primer and I'm not too happy with, it tends to rub off pretty easily) thank you
  2. using airbrush primers as brush-on?

    I'm actually repainting an old GW army of mine, so apart from metal it's also plastic, hope there aren't any contraindications with that. I've just found this link https://www.everythingairbrush.com/vallejo-premium-white-primer-60ml.html where they give a thorough description. They also mention sanding, is that something that needs to be done only when airbrushing? thank you
  3. looking for a brush-on white primer I've found this product at my local hobby shop. It seems to be meant for airbrushing (of which I know absolutely nothing), but since it comes pretty cheap (roughly 2$/oz) I thought I might give it a try. So, are airbrush primers suitable to be brushed on as well? Are they too thin? My only alternative is Army Painter's brush-on grey primer, but since I'm doing mostly reds I feel more comfortable with something white
  4. tried out demineralized water. I added a few drops, gave it a good shake with a glass agitator but the coating on the sides doesn't seem to budge :/ not that it's a big deal (I got these paints for 1€ a pot), still it's a bit annoying. I don't know if it's a matter of quantity, I don't want to risk adding too much water
  5. the original pots were sealed, I decanted them right after opening them (though some of them are several years old, Foundation-era Citadel paints) I have a bottle of demineralised water at home, do you think it would have the same effect as distilled? thank you
  6. I've managed to transfer a few paints of mine from pots into dropper bottles. Problem is, a few of them were a bit thick so after shaking the bottle now they're sticking to the sides of it. (red paint bottle is actually half full). Is there any way to get back what is now adhering to the bottle? I've heard of thinners and flow improvers but I don't know what the difference between the two is in this case. At my hobby shop they sell the following products by Vallejo: - Thinner medium 17ml/60ml - Airbrush thinner 17ml/60ml - Airbrush Flow improver 17ml/60ml What would be my best bet? thank you
  7. replacing the old GW inks

    In case anyone is interested, I think I've found a suitable alternative. In the end I didn't try out Army Painter's Red Tone as from what I've gathered it's more similar to the present-day washes than the old inks. Instead, I bought a couple of Liquitex Inks, Naphtol Crimson and Transparent Burnt Siena (if you want to google it you'll find it under the name of 'Sienna', but it should actually be with one 'n' lol). In terms of shine they look pretty similar to the old inks (on metal they seem to dry a bit more matte than on plastic, but then again back in the day I never used GW ink on metal so I wouldn't know what it's supposed to look like). In terms of color, Naphtol Crimson by itself is a bit light, but it gets closer adding some Burnt Siena. I've tried an undiluted 1:1 mix and, while not exactly the old thing (it's still a bit light), it's fairly similar. I guess with a little bit of tweaking (using burnt umber or some other ink, I don't know) it would be possible to achieve the original color depth. I think that's the closest one can get, I've heard of people suggesting Tamiya's Clear Red but it appears to be more of an overly glossy syrup than a proper ink.
  8. hi all, I’ve recently decided to switch to Army Painter paints and I’m struggling to choose a color I need. The tone I’d like is something in between sky-blue and grey, fairly similar to Fog Grey and Gorgon Hide (that is, what they appear to look like in the hexagons on the left). The problem here is that I don’t know how faithful these color charts are (I've had some bad experiences with Vallejo), as for instance in the hexagon on the left Fog Grey looks rather different from what it looks like on the label and inside the bottle (it looks more similar to what's inside Wolf Grey's bottle), and the same goes for Gorgon Hide. Which part should I trust here? also, which grey would you use to highlight blacks? I need a pure grey, that is with no brown tones. Judging from this chart, Necromancer Cloak doesn’t look very different from Matt Black, while Dungeon Grey and Uniform Grey may be a bit too light :/ (also, judging from this chart I'm not 100% sure that Uniform Grey is a pure grey) thanks for any help you can provide
  9. I've finally managed to get hold of a Marauder giant, the keg is missing and since I have no hopes of finding one at a decent price I'm trying to find a suitable substitute...in terms of size the barrel that came with the plastic GW giant from a few years ago looks quite similar but there are two differences that bug me: the wood has no texture, and the ropes seem to have a bit too many twists (minor discrepancy but I think it's noticeable) what would you do? would you settle for the plastic keg (and maybe carve some lines mimicking the texture) or try and find a textured keg and attempt to recreate the ropes with some green stuff? do you know of any good websites that sell diorama accessories? I've already tried on eBay but with no luck :/ thank you
  10. replacing the old GW inks

    sorry to bug you again but are these two the same thing? 'red tone ink' is not listed on Army Painter's site, maybe it's what it was called when it first came out and then it had its name changed?
  11. replacing the old GW inks

    according to this guy Liquitex transparent burnt Sienna is a pretty close match to the much beloved Chestnut Ink, for example, and in general I keep reading of people indicating Liquitex and Daler-Rowney acrylic inks as the best bet (Winsor&Newton also but since it has shellac in it I don't trust it much in the long run). I've never come across anyone suggesting a positive match for GW's Red Ink, though, and I really miss it - mostly for nostalgic reasons, it was one of my favorites when I was a kid. I remember applying a single layer of it and the orangish GW Blood Red of my minis would turn into a gorgeous, shiny darkish red
  12. replacing the old GW inks

    thank you for your suggestions, I've found a store in town that sells Army Painter paints so I'm going to give them a try. I've read mixed opinions about them in terms of similarity to the old inks but at €2.50 a piece they're definitely worth the risk
  13. hi all, I'm trying to find a suitable replacement for the GW inks that got discontinued some 10 years ago (I'm talking about the screw-on top inks with the glossy finish, red and green in particular). After a bit of research I've narrowed down my search to two brands, Liquitex and Daler-Rowney. In terms of gloss/shininess which one would you suggest? I've already tried Vallejo's red ink but it's fairly matte; Coat d'Arms is producing paints and inks which supposedly mimic the first generations of Citadel paints but from what I've gathered they have little to do with the 'screw-on top generation'; I've heard that P3 ink is fairly shiny but as I live in Italy that's a bit out of the question for me thank you for your help (on the left, GW's old red ink; on the right, an example of what I'd like to obtain)
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