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Al Capwn

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About Al Capwn

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    Mostly Harmless

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Texas
  • Interests
    Painting, Woodworking, Music, Games (both Tabletop and Video).
  1. Al Capwn

    7012 Caerindra Thistlemoor

    For me, the textures are what stand out to me. The back of the cloak, as well as the worn leather bits. What aspect/detail was the greatest challenge of this piece?
  2. Al Capwn

    What does C&C mean (to you)?

    Pre-2000, I would have thought of Command & Conquer. Post 2000, I would take it as comments & criticism/critique. Like Guindyloo mentioned, I also believe there is a good point in encouragement being celebrating the effort, and not really the results. Lots of people put a lot of time into their work, and some people are able to execute more techniques in that same span of time. The number of hours doesn't necessarily change. Personally, I post my work because: 1) I feel it is of a quality I am not totally embarrassed to show. 2) Provides a log of my progress, in a notebook of sorts that I won't lose. 3) Hopefully give inspiration to others if I executed something well. I believe most people put a small "disclaimer" regarding what they are seeking improvement on because they may be aware of other aspects that they are not seeking to work on at this time. For example, if I am asking specifically for feedback on improving say, blending skin tones, I am not looking for advice or suggestions on how to paint eyes or pupils. It is "out of scope" in terms of the request for critique. I think some folks (myself included) prefer to define aspects of technique execution they are actively working on. Information outside of that scope doesn't help troubleshoot problems that are actively being worked on. If it is an "open" request to critique and pick apart the paint job, then sure, fire away. I do have a few cautions when offering critique specifically. One, is that it is very easy for people to pick out the faults, rather than acknowledge when things go right. <Insert Heath Ledger Joker Meme Here> It is equally important to reinforce the good as well as offer advice on how to correct mistakes. I am not saying to offer undue praise or "blow sunshine", but rather to acknowledge and reinforce aspects that are being executed well. Two, on the internet nobody knows you are actually a dog. Meaning anyone can be the biggest know-it-all and simply press e-glasses up their nose and offer unsolicited advice where it is not wanted. They may or may not know what they are talking about. Furthermore, not everyone has the same level of diplomatic tact with the written word, and not everyone interprets written words in the appropriate tone. As we have been on the internet for any length of time, we know "flame wars" or even simple disputes often erupt from effectively nothing, usually due to a lack of vocal inflection to impart intent. I tend to believe that may be the reason for an overabundance of caution. All in all, I think that critiques can be honest and genuine while also simultaneously being positive and encouraging. Critique should be aimed at improving an area where a painter is seeking improvement. So it is best proffered in response to a prompt, i.e. "Why do my layers have tide marks/visible lines?"
  3. Al Capwn

    Best material for shading primer?

    I've tried all of the things you have mentioned and I generally tend to default back to a pre-made wash. I use GW, friend of mine uses Army Painter - both quite good. This tends to work the best in textured areas; faces, chain/chainmail, fur, ropes, etc. It is almost worthless for large flat areas (cloaks/capes). I sometimes will use something like Reaper [Blue/Brown/Red] Liner for "manual" dark-lining certain areas, such as the the flats of capes/cloaks. As an example, we did this in both Coulson and Markon's (Kuro Cleanbrush) classes at ReaperCon. With inks, they tend to "leach" into existing paint and the surface tension tends to cause them to "stain" or "tint" an entire surface much more than a traditional wash would. This means I find them poor for washing purposes, but great for glazes and boosting the intensity/saturation of an existing color (i.e. red ink over red paint to boost the intensity of color). Thinned paint, for me, tends to act like a diluted ink - staining an entire surface more than running into recesses. It can still work with a bit of fiddlin', but I find that the contrast is not nearly as stark due to the surface tension issues.
  4. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    December 2nd (The Necromancer) Rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated! I have too many hobbies, and between that and the holidays, I have been away from the painting desk. I finally picked up a brush again and after touching up the belt buckle on Clovis, I figured I would keep moving along so that these minis actually get painted before Zombicide: Invader comes along sometime in Feb-March. The usual zenithal priming setup, but this time I added a bit of black wash and re-applied the white highlights on top. This was to add a bit more depth into the recesses and areas to quickly black-line to get an idea of where the outlines should be. Front: Back: I started working on the mini using layers of Reaper Twilight Purple for the robe, introducing a little Vallejo Black into the mix for the deeper shadows. I then airbrushed some Vallejo Mecha White back over top, and repeated this purple glaze over white routine a bit to boost contrast and add highlights. Beard is done with Vallejo German Black-Brown. The eyebrows on this guy are pretty huge, but I still overshot them a bit and need to come in with some magnification and clean up. Skintones were done with the Scale75 skintones set, using Indian Shadow, Basic, Pink and Light skin tones. The skulls were coated with GW Screaming Skull, which contains a fair bit of Gray in the mix - if you mix Vallejo German Black-Brown, instead of pushing more towards Brown, it starts turning more Gray. This has been my first "gee that is weird" interaction with color mixing. It still works out, just not what was expected. Ribbon/sash is base coated with my perennial favorite, Vallejo Cavalry Brown, which will be worked up to a bright red in the next steps. The first phase of the handwraps were given a light coat of Reaper Linen White and given a light coat of GW Agrax Earthshade, as were the skulls in hand and staff. So with all of that, here is phase one of the necromancer. Still a lot of work to do, but getting a rough idea of how it is coming along.
  5. Al Capwn

    Chibi Gloomhaven (spoiler free)

    Wow, my only wish is that these were commercially available - great work and great re-imagining them into chibi form. It goes without saying that the painting is equally well executed! Well done!
  6. Al Capwn

    Painting 3D prints

    Depends on the material and how much prep you want to put into terrain. Most FDM produced pieces will have visible layer lines. You can opt to sand, use a sealer (such as an epoxy), use a filling primer + sanding. Basically any means to conceal these layer lines. You can also choose to more-or-less ignore them, but certain techniques, chiefly drybrushing and washing to a lesser extent, can prove to be problematic. For ABS, you can "vapor smooth" the piece using acetone - but this is a careful dance since you are effectively melting the ABS layers, so too long and you begin to melt details. To be fair, I would surmise you haven't been impressed with FDM 3D printing. Resin based printers are frequently used to produce miniatures. Different technologies for different applications. Folks who use FDM printers to produce miniatures are frequently left with sub-par results. Though there are rare exceptions to the rule when using very fine nozzle sizes, or specific printer settings to yield better results. Recent developments in the technology have lowered the barrier to entry to resin printers significantly, to the point where individual sculptors can afford an AnyCubic Photon/Maker Select/Wanhao to produce very acceptable prototypes. The biggest cons are the relatively small build chamber, mess and fumes, and significantly increased cost of materials when compared to FDM.
  7. Very impressive progress! I have to imagine the most time consuming and tedious part is getting initial coverage on all of the pieces. So much coverage...with a single tiny brush. I admire anyone who has the mental and physical endurance to attempt this. Keep it up and look forward to seeing the completion!
  8. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    Clovis (Oct 26) Yesterday the name of the game was tackling some details and tidying up a bit. First order of business was his white sleeves of his undershirt. I used Vallejo German Black-Brown to shade, and then worked in increasing amounts of Reaper Linen White, pushing up the contrast more and more. For some areas of his cloak, I added a bit of Daler-Rowney White Ink and glazed over a bit of Reaper Violet Red over top, just to push the highlights a little further on the edges and folds of some of the cloak. I found a few more leather straps around the model, notably on his boots, short sword, and at the top of his greaves. Various metal bits received some more highlight love with Vallejo Air Steel: the rivets in the padding that covers his legs, the very tips of some of the armor sections along the front leg, various belt buckles, the bottom-left edge of the sword sheath, a tiny bit on the short sword in the front, and the armor rivets on the leather armor of his chest. For the hilt, I used a bit of Vallejo Game Air Glorious/Polished Gold to add some subtle highlights. Finally, I went ahead and blocked in the base coat of color for the base. Now, I don't know about others, but sometimes I find that I have no clue "what things are" on a model until after I have taken pictures, or looked at other reference pictures. Usually that is when the mental click goes, "Oh, so THAT is what that piece is!" and I have to go back and tidy that section up to make it look like what it is supposed to be. A good example of this is that glaring square steel block in the front. It is supposed to be another leather buckle; whoops, something I missed this go around.
  9. Al Capwn

    Zombicide Green horde orcs batch 1 of 6...

    Persistence is certainly the name of the game when it comes to batch painting. I still have a whole bunch of zombies to paint, so clearly not going to meet my end of October goal (though I should wrap up the starter heroes by the end of the month). Looks good - keep at it!
  10. Al Capwn

    Ongoing Wip Thread..

    Nice work on the barbarian as well - the wilderness base really sets it off nicely! ...and Orks are perfect for Orktober!
  11. Al Capwn

    CMON Zombicide: Black Plague

    Oct 20th - Clovis Today was making a few changes and refining some details. Like I mentioned in my previous post, the "black leather" was just not enough contrast from the silver of the armor. So I decided to take it into a more "traditional" leather color. I used Vallejo Cavalry Brown, which is a Red-Brown, and added Vallejo Orange Brown into the mix. Then I added increasing amounts of Reaper Golden Highlight and Linen White to push up the contrast. Finally, I added a spot wash of Citadel Agrax Earthshade into the recesses. I also added highlights to the hair. Brice Cocanour mentioned looking at "anime style hair" as an reference for highlighting mini hair. There is usually a bright highlight in a ring around the hair, that pushes into brightest highlight. Liz Beckley has a short tutorial that mimics the concept as well. I used Orange Brown as the base color for the hair, and used Golden Highlight and Linen white. I kept alternating with a thin glazes of Orange-Brown over Golden Highlight/Linen, gradually building up the highlighted area. I did this about 2-3 times, but the more layers you do, the more contrast and refined the transitions are. You may also notice that I used these colors for the belt highlight as well; something I was told is that if you use the same colors in the mini, it helps tie things together and keep colors from being too random. I don't know how much truth there is to it, I am not a color scientist, but it looks good to me. Still quite a bit left to do, including working on the sleeves of his shirt, refining his cloak, shading the "ropes", and refining the sword sword attached to his belt. Pesky mold line! *shakes fist*
  12. I am actually really looking forward to this, it sounds really cool and of course very thematic to the piece as well. Enjoying watching the refining process.
  13. Al Capwn

    Scale75 - The Chronicles of Run

    So I recently dipped my toes into the water with the ScaleColor skin tones set, and it is very, very matte. Almost dusty matte. Borderline uncomfortably matte. Blends beautifully though - great for glazing as well. Sounds like you need to shake them. No, shake them more. No, even more. All done? Shake a wee bit more. ScaleColor is notoriously "thick". Like the consistency of heavy-cream or melted chocolate. If yours is watery, it sounds like the pigment has separated from the medium and requires fierce agitation to unify. It appears to be a common critique about the line.
  14. Al Capwn

    Ongoing Wip Thread..

    Very nice work so far! Really nice transitions of the purple on the robes - they contrast nicely with the skin tones.
  15. Al Capwn

    10 Rookie Tips... From a Rookie

    I've heard Vince Venturella say, "Don't let perfect be the enemy of good" and 'Uncle Atom' from Table Top Minions say, "The cost of perfection is prohibitive". I think these axioms are extremely valid. I also like the phrase, "Don't compare yourself to others. Compare yourself to who you were the day before." Guilty as charged. I try to meet somewhere in the middle now and save some "fodder" or less-loved minis for newer techniques or experiments, and save the minis for the things that "I don't want to mess up" after I feel somewhat comfortable when establishing a technique or color scheme. Just a personal guideline, not a hard-and-fast rule though.
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