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japenny_902

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About japenny_902

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  1. japenny_902

    Neutralizing Gloss Varnish?

    I switched from testors dullcote, to Tamiya TS-80 and never looked back, for rattle can varnish. It's more consistent to me and is dead flat. For brush on/Airbrush on, I use Pebeo Matt Artist Varnish. It's extremely flat and for an acrylic varnish it seems pretty durable.
  2. japenny_902

    Minis we would like to see

    I'd personally like to see Ratling type miniatures, great for sewer adventures. And Wolfen, I get asked for them a lot by my players, and have a hard time finding miniatures. The reaper warlord ones are cool, but 1 inch based size figures would be awesome (if I remember the warlord ones are larger figures are they not?)
  3. japenny_902

    Wargames using reaper figs

    I recently got Dragon Rampant by Osprey games. Seems very cool to me and totally generic. You could even use it as a skirmish game if you just fielded individual powerful figures as units. Worth checking out.
  4. japenny_902

    cracks in paint appearing on models

    Absolutely you're right. I was considering one or two of the learn to paint kits, to get a sampling, but from there even if the paints in the kit don't do anything bad there is no way of knowing if there are any other problem colors in the line. I was hoping there might be some official word from reaper on the issue, which is really what I was musing about with my comment. As any painter that does a google search for reviews etc, while doing research on the materials they are thinking about using, will come across this, erroneous or not, issue on many 3rd party forums/sites etc. Plus 100 bucks on a sampling of paint, for instance, is a lot to me, with the wait times for delivery it's just a little irritating is all, I wasn't trying to make a big point.
  5. japenny_902

    cracks in paint appearing on models

    Sort of off topic, but still about cracks in reaper paint. I've heard about the cracking with MSP paints before. I think the common reason people say it happens is the amount of flow improver in the paint, although from my experience with many types of paint in the art world, this isn't what happens when too much flow improver is in paint. Normally the paint doesn't dry as water proof as you expect with too much flow improver, so you can actually "reactivate" the paint a bit. All my personal experience mind you. I think cracking could be caused by a bottom layer of paint shrinking under a top one, especially if the top layer does not have the elasticity to keep up with the shrinking. I wonder what kind of primer the OP used. To be honest this is what has been making me have second thoughts about buying a bunch of reaper paint. I've been itching to dump a pile of money into new paint but having a hard time being comfortable with it being reaper. Maybe this should have been it's own thread. As it would be nice to hear some official word from Reaper on this cracking that you hear about online in various places. And if there are any guarantees or company policy on the matter. Maybe I'll start one on it soon.
  6. japenny_902

    Master Series HD and Bones Paint

    Thanks for the replies as always! That's the info I was hoping for.
  7. Another paint question here. Is there any overlap between the regular HD paint and the Bones paint? Please correct but they're both similar in formulation from my understanding. But are they all individually unique colors? Like if I bought the whole range of each would I wind up buying a lot of duplicate colors?
  8. japenny_902

    MSP Advice - Black Primer

    Thanks for all of the feedback everyone. I still have some decisions to make obviously, and given that I'm hearing we're in for another cold snap up here in Canada I will have a little more time to think about it. Cheers
  9. japenny_902

    MSP Advice - Black Primer

    Thank you guys for the replies. I can see how I gave the impression that I wanted it for speed painting. I guess what I kind of mean is I'd like a good paint system that would work well both higher quality single jobs that have smoother blends/layering etc., as well as faster table top work when I want to churn out a pile of troops at a time etc. I also make a lot of mistakes lol, so I do find corrections easier to do with a more opaque base. When I used to paint minis years ago I tended to do a lot of ultra thin layering for higher quality work that took forever, but I found it catastrophic when I made a blunder. 9ish years later I guess my patience and spare time limit me for doing that kind of work. I assume the more opaque colors would be the highlights in the triads due to the addition of white or other light opaque pigments. But I also have a small concern that relying on the triad systems may make for a sterile look in ways. Like sometimes I add a bit of different colors to steer a highlight to a warmer or cooler temperature, same with shadows. This sounds contradictory to my initial inquiry but it is something I did think about. Makes me go in circles in my head lol. Probably overthinking it. I know the ideal would probably be a mix of both HD and MSP, although if HD can be thinned and worked will for reasonable layering then that alone might be the way for me to go.
  10. japenny_902

    MSP Advice - Black Primer

    Hello Everyone, I'm seeking a little input for my spring paint purchase. I'm considering going over to Reaper Master Series and phasing out P3 and GW. My concern is how well do master series paints cover over a dark primer? For units and faster style painting, I find it suits my tastes to use a black primer over a white or gray. I do kind of a dark to light, loose to tight style of work. Any input would be appreciated.
  11. japenny_902

    14093: Finari, Crusaders Hero Mounted Conversion

    Hello from a fellow Haligonian! Looks great, that's a really skillful conversion. The hoof prints in the base are a nice touch.
  12. japenny_902

    Custom stats?

    Hello, I'm looking for various miniature rules that allow for the creation of custom units/characters. Can anyone tell me if there are rules for this included in the Warlord rules. Basically I'm looking for something like a set of generic rules, and am wondering if Warlord can be used as such? I'm still probably going to pick it up anyways, but just thought I'd ask. Cheers James Penny
  13. Hello, Can anyone provide what temperatures are safe for paint. I'm going to be travelling by car and want to know how hot paint can get without being hurt, specifically reaper master series paints. Cheers James Penny
  14. japenny_902

    Old paint

    I did investigate the list of bad paints in the pinned section, but these colors aren't on that. I guess my question should really be about age. Is there a time that MSPs are good on the shelf? Cheers James
  15. japenny_902

    Old paint

    Hi everyone, I bought some of the MSP triads a couple of years ago, and didn't use some of them until now, except when I first got them to play with them for a day or two. Now some of them when thinned down to a layer consistancy they are extremely grainy on the surface of my mini. Like little tiny polkadots. I shook the paint very well and even stirred it with a toothpick to get the gunk from under the dropper mixed back in, and still it doesn't seem to help. Mabey I should mix them again.... I dunno I love the paint, and would hate to think that I need to buy a bunch all over again, but if that is all I can do then I guess I will have to Is there anything I can try? Some help from the pros would be greatly appreciated. Cheers James
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