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Madog Barfog

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About Madog Barfog

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  1. Figure Protecting

    Just some of my thoughts on sealing, since I've been doing it for a while and have done a lot of research. First, as mentioned, Future has undergone a lot of changes in the last few years, and I'm not sure something called Future today is what we actually still want. There is supposed to be a product out there almost identical to our old Future, but I forget which one it is. I would put a bit of research into this before purchasing anything. But I don't use Future for sealing. It's just floor wax. I use Minwax Polyurethane, available at hardware stores. I use satin, but it really doesn't matter, as it's going to come out incredibly shiny. I use 2 coats, 24 hours in between, with NO thinning. Then I use Golden Archival acrylic spray, available from Dick Blick or another major art store. I get a lot of push back on this, because people love their Testor's Dullcoat. Well, if you want to spend more money on something that *isn't* archival, meaning it isn't designed to last, go right ahead. Your figures may never yellow in a few years (mine haven't), but enough reputable people have reported that theirs have that I don't want to pay extra for that possibility.
  2. Weta Workshop uses Reaper paints!

    All I will say is I'm absolutely delighted I started this thread!
  3. For their miniatures, obviously. Check out this video, around 4:12. I can't see them completely, but it looks like some RMS and a bottle of Bones in the background. BTW, Adam Savage is perhaps the most talented adult 8 year old I've ever seen. Most of his Tested videos are awesome!
  4. New painter, Kobold and Deladrin

    Brown is fine for shading red, but if you use white to make it a highlight, you will end up with pink, not a brighter red. If you want a brighter red, add *yellow* to it. This is the only color I can think of offhand that breaks the rule of adding white for highlighting.
  5. New painter, Kobold and Deladrin

    I'm going to second the recommendation for quality brushes, and will mention that I've used W&N S7Ms for years. Acrylic paint dries very quickly. We often mix "retarder" in with it to slow the drying time if we want to blend paints on the figure while they are still wet. I paint under an old incandescent "natural" bulb, and the heat accelerates drying. If you aren't using acrylics, your mileage may vary. Highlighting and shadowing are easy. Shadows are a darkening that goes into the depths of the figure - those areas such as underarms, folds in cloaks, the back of the knees, etc. It's a simple matter of taking a darker version of your main color, diluting it until it is no longer opaque, and then selectively applying it. Ink also works well for this; it's thin enough to run into the crevices itself (note that holding the figure in the correct position until the ink dries will help with this). Highlighting is just the opposite. Take a lighter shade than than your base shade (often simply made by mixing in some white paint, or yellow if you are lightening red), thin it so it's transparent, and paint it on the high spots, such as forehead, cheekbones, elbows, the ends of sleeves and pants legs, anything that sticks up above surface, etc. It will take a bit of practice to get the paint density thin enough to be transparent without running into places you don't want it. I'll add two suggestions for you. The first is dark lining. This is simply taking a dark color, usually dark brown or black, thinning it carefully, and "lining" where different sections meet, such as between sleeves and hands, around where a sword lays against a body, where a cloak meets the rest of the clothing, etc. It will really help each part of the mini stand out. The second suggestion is to use a dull coat. I use Golden Archival Varnish spray, and I'm probably going to get a lot of complaints because I'll point out it is *cheaper and better* than Testor's dull coat, which most people use simply because it's more readily available. The problem with Testor's is it's not archival, which means it *CAN* yellow with time, and to be honest, if this hasn't happened to someone, that's nice, but I've heard from enough very knowledgeable people it HAS happened to that I'm not willing to take the chance. If someone uses Testor's and has not had this happen, I really don't need to hear about it as it changes nothing and the problem can still occur. It's a bit like driving a Pinto - not many of them exploded, but it was still considered a big problem as it happened far too often. I buy my spray at Dick Blick's art store for about $16/can or so. One thing that is true of all flattening sprays is they can be sensitive to temperature and humidity. I only spray outside on warm days when the humidity is low. This means I can't spray during winter and have to be careful during spring, as warmer days are often too humid because it's going to rain soon. Just be patient, and don't spray too much or the microscopic plates that break up the light will begin piling up and actually cause your finish to become shiny.
  6. P3 paints?

    Hi, Moonglum. Long time no see! I only saw P3 paints used by one person. He worked in an FLGS and painted minis while there. He used straight P3, which I thought was very odd because it was so thick. He was painting tabletop Warhammer armies to sell, and I was really surprised at how good he was able to make them look using such thick paint straight from the bottle. I'm guessing he had really good brush control. I'm not sure if this helps, but it's all the data I have.
  7. Hi, everyone. It's been a looong time since I posted here. I'm getting back into painting (again) and just picked up some Golden Retarder for acrylic paints. Does anyone have any experience using it? I'm specifically looking for advice on how to mix it with paints, such as ratios.
  8. Stirred not shaken?

    I tried exactly this a long time ago. It was a total failure. As others have said, rock tumblers simply don't spin the bottles fast enough to agitate them. Seriously, I was putting at least 5 paint containers in and letting it run overnight. Useless.
  9. Stone colours

    But color mixing is fun. One of the big differences I've noticed between top paint jobs and average paint jobs is that top painters realize that one way to make something look smaller is to paint it a uniform color. In other words, they vary the color of almost everything, even across a uniformly colored surface. There's no sin in having a few different shades on your terrain. Rocks have a tremendous variety of shades and it may look funny if they all match too closely. I'd go to your local craft store and pick out some craft colors as WizardOne has shown. Get some neutral browns and tans if you don't want to clash with any mini color schemes. I like my RMS and I wouldn't waste it on terrain. I can't buy any locally, either. If you insist on premixing, the craft bottles are large enough and cheap enough. Get 2 browns, a black, and a white. When you want a shadow/highlight, take 1/2 of one of the browns and mix some black/white in. Last I checked these were about 50 cents a bottle, so no worries about mixing up too much and wasting it.
  10. Citadel/Ral Partha Imports Treeman

    Citadel is a line of GW products. I think their paints are still called Citadel, the early figures were as well. There were some interesting licensing agreements back then - there is still a Ral Partha Europe that sells things I can't buy at IWM, and while GW has become a monster of its own, it had some interesting distrubution agreements in the US (Ral Partha) and Canada (RAFM, I believe).
  11. Display cases

    Thanks, Laszlo. The case pictured is my first - it's been with me since the early 80s and has spent some of those years in a damp basement, all the while being in contact with unpainted minis, or at least their bases. I have no rot, I'd say having the cases open may help. The printer boxes I've had for less time (still a few years). Yes, Karoak, one of my best. My Karoak gallery if you like. See, most of these guys are up already. :)
  12. Stone colours

    Rocks can be all sorts of colors. I have some very nice orange ones in my yard now, full of fossils - very cool. I would pick a color that's going to compliment the rest of the mini. Will it be a warm mini (reds) or a cool mini (blues & greens)? Once you have that figured out, the base can be painted to compliment. Craft paints work quite well for this. A color like gray can be cold or warm - mix some brown or yellow in it to make it warm, or give it some blue to go cold. I like grey-blue rocks, but it depends on the mini's color scheme.
  13. Citadel/Ral Partha Imports Treeman

    Thanks. Have you checked out IWM's Wormwood? Thanks. It's *old*; was probably cast in 1982! Don't drop it, it's real lead!
  14. Display cases

    Antique means old. Old may or may not mean rare. There were a LOT of print shops around, and each of them had several drawers like this. Thank you. The worthy ones are already in my gallery (hint: the page has links on it). Ebay. I don't like it for selling things, but if you are OK paying with Paypal, that's where you can find these. Me too. I finally tracked it down with help. Here you go: http://www.reapermin...mports-treeman/ Yes. Are you implying that I should now finish the tutorial? That just seems odd :)
  15. Citadel/Ral Partha Imports Treeman

    Halloween wasn't that long ago. Here's a figure I painted a while ago but is a recent addition to the gallery, per Kang's request. http://www.hacklopedia.com/miniatures/terrain/partha_tree.shtml
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