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Mad Jack

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Mad Jack last won the day on March 15

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  1. Getting to Know You, Mar 2018

    I don't paint. I just haphazardly collect unpainted miniatures, and sometimes cut them up but never reassemble them.
  2. The '80's: The decade that brought you warnings that coffee was hot... It was a continuation of the whole kids'-toy choking scare of the '70's and the lead-scare of the '80's.
  3. They were part of the collection I've been identifying and cataloguing... Some of those undead that GW got were part of the Leading Edge Games Army of Darkness 61101 Deadite Warriors box set... I wish I'd been able to ID them before he asked for them - I would have kept them for myself, lol. There's all sorts of old stuff in the collection - a lot of old Citadel (including a full set of BC4 Mighty Ugezod's Death Commandos), Heritage Dungeon Dwellers, Metal Magic, just over half of the entire Grenadier Western Gunfighters line, the Perrin Miniatures Sovereign Stone figures (based on the Margeret Weiss/Tracey Hickman books)... And the ID project is still ongoing. FTFY
  4. What, no pictures yet?
  5. Yeah, in a lot of ways a rotary tool is almost too much tool for what we as miniature hobbyists use it for - I tend to spend decent money on my stuff because I'm equally likely to be using it for home repair or plumbing as anything hobby-related.
  6. Randomness XIII: Cognitive Dissonance While You Wait

    Mad Jack, hunter/gatherer, returned safely to the tribe bearing sustenance, and all is well. Impending Snowpocalypse apparently still impending... It snowed all night long last night, but everything melted as it hit the ground - it literally looks as if it hadn't snowed at all. So I went out and bought an emergency pizza for nothing. I haven't watched the series myself, but I understand that Spartacus was good for that... If any of that junk is mini-related, I'm sure we can find a good home for it... <hint, hint>
  7. Most Dremels have a switch to change between a higher and lower speed. What you want in a low speed is something under 8000 RPM. On the high end, you're never going to need anything above 12,000 or 15,000 - and most of the time using the high setting for anything mini-related, even cutting materials for terrain, is like using a fighter jet for crop-dusting or doing an appendectomy with a chainsaw. The first few times you use a powered rotary tool for thing you usually do with hand tools, it's going to seem like you've traded in your grandma's old Ford for a Ferrari, and it will be just as hard to handle. Too much power is generally the greatest cause of mishaps when using a Dremel on minis - rather than removing material it has a tendency to grab too tightly to the material and then, like a tire suddenly gaining traction on asphalt, it jumps the cut and goes skittering across the surface or launches your piece out of your hand like a rail gun. Which is one of the reasons Gadgetman suggested looking into the micro-tools, particularly for fine work like pinning - if a tool has too little power, it can get bound up, but that's easily countered by backing off and starting again, taking your time and not using too much speed or pressure. Too much power, and instead of just getting bound up in the material you end up with snapped bits or ruined material. I'd probably second the recommendation for the Dremel 2050 or 8050 - and you might consider starting off with the 8050 since you can get one online at Micro Mark at a discount, and with a 30 return policy if you don't like it.
  8. Randomness XIII: Cognitive Dissonance While You Wait

    Right.... Mad Jack, hunter/gatherer, is now headed out into the impending Snowpocalypse to forage for roots and berries...
  9. Randomness XIII: Cognitive Dissonance While You Wait

    My services as a ringer are freely available - I always tell my DMs at the start of the game that if there's a certain place they want the party to go, someone we need to talk to, or they party needs steered in a particular direction, I'm always happy to be a collaborator as long as the actions required to do it fit within my character. If I can see that you've got something cool or interesting planned I'm all about jumping on the bandwagon and working from a script. Your last name is Skywalker, isn't it?
  10. Since you don't intend to be doing much heavy work with it for now, I'd definitely look into either getting the flexible shaft attachment for a regular Dremel or get a smaller hobby-sized Dremel. The hobby-sized Dremel units are sometimes not powerful enough for the heavier hobby jobs like the serious grinding and cutting you'd get into during heavy conversions or making terrain, but for most basic uses it should be enough. And if I remember correctly, the flexible shaft attachment also fits the hobby-sized Dremel as well. Note that using the regular-sized Dremel and flexible shaft attachment will require a bit of room, so if you don't have a dedicated hobby area or it's really tight on space, it may be advisable to go with the smaller Dremel. I have strong hands, and a lot of practice with the hobby-sized Dremel, so I personally just hold it like a pencil in one hand and the mini in the other, but you'll likely end up developing you own style - a lot of folks get those helping-hands things or something else to hold the mini securely while they work. As far as bits go: - You'll want several different sizes of collets in order to hold a wide variety of bits - most Dremels come with a basic starter kit. - There are hundreds of different cutting and grinding bits out there, both from Dremel and other brands, and you'll eventually want to end up with two or three cutters and four or five grinders in varying shapes and sizes. Make sure you get the ones meant for use with the material you're working on. Using a bit meant for softer material on harder things will kill it in short order. Using a bit meant for harder things on softer materials can have vastly different results than normal, so always check first to see how they interact. - Cutting wheels should always be the reinforced kind. When the reinforced ones break, they usually just end up in two or three pieces, but the regular ones tend to shatter and throw shrapnel. - Dremel makes a small 6 or 7 piece drill bit set in a little gray plastic holder - the three smallest bits are going to be just about perfect size for a wide variety of hobby uses. - You can get ridiculously tiny engraving bits in several shapes. These are awesome for fine detail work. Large engraving bits are good for removing large amounts of material in tight areas that you might not be able to reach or apply enough pressure to with other tools. - Sanding drums can be found in a variety of different grits, and you can also make your own if you want. Sanding and polishing bits are excellent for removing mold lines and other prep/finishing work. On soft metal like we work with, sometimes even a rubber polishing bit is enough to remove mold lines and smooth things out. - Pick up some plastic brush attachments... They're excellent for taking paint off of minis after they've been soaked in Simple Green. General Advice: As mentioned, a slower speed with a lighter touch is nearly always going to accomplish what you want easier and with less chance of mishap. With enough practice you can even do fine detail work with a cutting wheel. High speeds are for gross material removal and grinding down the bulk of an object before switching to a more siutable bit and slower speed. When first starting out, dig out a bunch of old minis and practice on them first - using a Dremel is a skill, and control and finesse need to be learned through practice. Aside from being physically painful, even a minor slip-up can have catastrophic results on your figure if you're going too fast or applying too much pressure. And finally, SAFETY GLASSES!!!!! SAFETY GLASSES!!!! SAFETY GLASSES!!! You will get hit in the face by flying detritus and or dust on a regular basis. Although a full-on respirator mask usually won't be necessary, it can be helpful to have some sort of dust mask.
  11. removing greenstuff

    As mentioned, if it's not cured yet, just dab some more greenstuff on there and it should pick up most of the leftovers. Also, get a bit of blister plastic or plastic card and cut out a suitably-shaped scraper to get whatever remains off. If the stuff's already cured, just poke your scraper up under the edge and peel it off.
  12. Getting to Know You, Mar 2018

    Yep. Living in semi-rural CT, any school friends we had that didn't live in the neighborhood lived up to five miles away. So when we weren't walking, we were riding. I can't really remember how old I was when I learned to ride, but it would have been pretty young - there's no way in hell anyone in my neighborhood would have been caught dead with training wheels on their bike after the age of six, and my parents were always of the "shove and pray" school of learning to fly. Not so much funny, but epic crash story. It's one of the ten times in my life I probably should have died, but didn't. Our whole neighborhood was on a hill. We were always biking or skateboarding down the hills to see how fast we could get. Wiping out was a regular occurrence. This one time, my brother and I had started out on the far end of the horizontal road at the top of the neighborhood, and built up as much speed as we could before we rounded the corner onto the steep downhill. We were going fast enough that it was lucky both of us managed that first corner. Now, the road continued down the hill, but a short block downhill from the top was a 90-degree turn onto another road. Coming into the second turn, both my brother and I were fighting hard to successfully make the turn at terminal velocity. And only about six inches apart. I forget which one of us wobbled, but we bumped and both lost control. The yard in the downhill corner there drops steeply down from the corner before leveling out - essentially leaving an 8-ft embankment on the first 40-ft. of the outside edge of our turn.My brother, who'd been on the outside, went hurtling down the embankment and out into the middle of the yard, where skidding on the grass slowed him down enough to allow him to engineer a "soft" crash in just enough time to avoid the house itself. I was on the inside coming through the turn, and hung on for the extra second it took for the ground to level out. Which meant that I crossed the gravel on the side of the road and the guy's driveway completely out of control and at far too high a speed to react, nevermind engineer a soft crash. My front tire hit that tree head on. I flew up over the handlebars, slammed into the tree headfirst... and rolled up it. I was pretty much completely inverted, doing a handstand on my handlebars. Which is when the bike followed me up and slammed into my chest. Then the whole process repeated itself in reverse, and the bike fell back down on it's tires, and I landed back on the bike with my feet on the pedals. And promptly fell over. I was covered in minor bruises, and a couple of minor scrapes, but had no broken bones, no fractures, no tears, sprains or any other real injuries aside from twisting my ankle when the bike fell over at the very end. I have at least a dozen stories of times I've crashed into things at speeds that by all rights should have killed me. I have earned my reputation as a tough bastard.
  13. I like the little green Petal Princess, wonder where she came from...
  14. Randomness XIII: Cognitive Dissonance While You Wait

    Thanks for the tip. GEM Greenstuff remains slightly flexible, even when cured. It'll put up with a lot more crap and rough handling for a lot longer. And it will stretch and tear rather than cracking like most of the other putties. The down side is that it's elasticity make it harder to work with for filling holes and gaps than the things like Squadron Putty that you can just slap on like spackling a hole in the wall.
  15. Randomness XIII: Cognitive Dissonance While You Wait

    Anytime something is flexible, go with greenstuff - anything else eventually cracks or separates.