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Bones Supporter
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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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About MojoBob

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    Christchurch, New Zealand

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  1. Yes, I have. It would probably be best to use the high-intensity dyes intended for use with plaster, as the Sculptamold's whiteness lightens paints a lot. However, adding more water-based paint doesn't seem to affect the stuff's curing much, if at all, and chips and what-not are certainly less obvious.
  2. It's pretty light once it's dried thoroughly. Its edges are vulnerable though, so I always use a base plate of some sort. It occurs to me (though I haven't tried it yet) that you could reinforce the edges by covering them with toilet paper or similar soft tissue soaked in PVA.
  3. I use Sculptamold pretty much exclusively these days for the basic groundwork. It's so much easier than any of the other methods I've tried. It definitely needs to be laid down on some sort of base though, as the edges can be prone to damage if unsupported. I usually use 3mm MDF. The rock faces are cheap epoxy putty, pressed into Woodland Scenics rubber moulds. The foot bridge is one that I made on my 3d printer. The steps were just pressed and shaped into the Sculptamold after it had set for ten or fifteen minutes.
  4. MojoBob

    Nothic (Bones ghast conversion)

    Excellent job — it really is a good representation of the original artwork as I remember it. The ghast was a good choice for the base figure.
  5. MojoBob

    Flame Skull (3d print)

    I printed Miguel Zavala's Flame Skull, and put it on a clear acrylic flight stand. It's shown here with the ever-reliable Sergeant Measureby and his +3 Spear of 5mm Increments. I struggle a bit with painting flames and hotness, like hot metal or lava, but I'm relatively happy with how this turned out. I got a bit of stringing amongst the flame spikes, but I can't say that was unexpected. Printed at 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle in eSun PLA+
  6. MojoBob

    Nuln vs Agrax

    I quite often use a 50/50 mix of the two. Pure Nuln Oil is too stark and cartoonish, pure Agrax Earthshade is too brown and warm. The combination of the two gives me the darkness I want, with a touch of colour. Alternately, I'll do an overall wash with Agrax and then come back in with Nuln in selected areas to pump up specific shadow regions.
  7. MojoBob

    Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

    It looks great. Very reminiscent of some of the Chinese "Seated Buddha" statuettes I've seen.
  8. MojoBob

    Owl Coin

    One option might be to get the disc, complete with outline and lettering, produced by a stamp manufacturer. Then you can transfer your owl sculpting to that to make a composite master.
  9. MojoBob

    Mr. Blobby

    I think if you search Thingiverse for "Handsome Kirby" you should find it.
  10. MojoBob

    Demon No.3

    This is the third of three big-mouth demons from a set by Duncan Louca. I tried a much more chaotic colour scheme on this one than I did on the first two, and I can't really say that it's a great success. However, inertia will no doubt keep it this way forever now.
  11. MojoBob

    The newbie and the Giant

    Beautiful, I really like it.
  12. MojoBob

    Mr. Blobby

    I found this model somewhere on the internet, alone and uncredited, so I have no idea who made it or what it is or anything. People have suggested that it's a Kirby, whatever that is, with a human face pasted on. I like it, and I'll print about a dozen of them, and make up some stats to use them in my D&D campaign in some way. I'm leaning towards some kind of waddling tar-baby critter, but we shall see. The original model was only about 1.5mm tall, so I've rescaled it by 1500% to roughly 20mm.
  13. MojoBob

    Sculpting free-standing feathers

    You could try some of the self-adhesive copper tape used for leadlighting, stuck on both sides of a coarse nylon bristle. The nylon will provide enough support to keep the feather upright, but enough flexibility that an accidental impact won't be catastrophic. The copper is soft enough that it can be cut to shape with sharp nail scissors, and it can be easily impressed with a feathery texture with a needle.
  14. MojoBob

    Digital Sculpting in Blender

    I'm in the process of teaching myself a little bit about digital sculpting in Blender. This is the latest fruit of my digital loins. This poor guy got chained up and stuck in a hole for no other reason than that I failed to plan ahead to making a body and limbs for him. I probably could cobble something together by stretching and moulding from its base, but it wouldn't be ideal. I've put the model on my page at Thingiverse, both as it's seen here, and just as the bust; it comes to about 4 megabytes for both versions. I strongly suspect that the chained up version would be quite tricky to print successfully; those chain links are bound to be problematic.
  15. MojoBob

    Airbrushing: The Compendium

    I've designed several stands for some of my own airbrushes, and uploaded the STL files to Thingiverse for 3d printing. They all print with minimal supports; I've been enabling Cura's "Make overhangs printable" option, and then they need no supports at all. I wanted something that would hold the brushes securely without being a pain to get them in and out of, and the test prints I've so far done have worked very well. I've pierced the bases with countersunk holes for screwing them down to a desk or shelf or just a bit of wood, to give them considerably more stability — they're fine just on their own with an unmounted brush, but I worry about snagging the hose on a mounted brush and pulling the whole shebang on to the floor. So far I have designs for the following: Badger 105 Patriot at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135372 Badger 200 Single-action at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135516. Badger Krome at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3137556 Paasche Talon at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3141265 Here's the stand for the Patriot 105: The others (and any others I make in the future) are pictured on my blog at http://mojobob.blogspot.com/2018/10/airbrush-stands.html