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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

MojoBob had the most liked content!

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    Christchurch, New Zealand
  1. Speed paint monsters Hoard of the Dragon Queen

    Maybe it's just some kind of internet weirdness, but I'm not seeing any pictures....?
  2. Airbrush Assembly Question

    My Patriot also has that gap. I can't remember for sure whether it was like that before I disassembled it for the first time, but I think not since I noticed it was there at some stage. I haven't noticed it making much, if any, difference to the operation of the brush, which is still my go-to workhorse.
  3. Basilisk

    Those eyebrow scales are a big improvement. It's a really nice model, so kudos!
  4. Basilisk

    The eyebrow-horns aren't working, but what if you get rid of them and build up its brow ridges a bit? The ridges could be shaped to give the facial expression a bit more menace. [EDIT] Ah, like what you've just done in fact :)
  5. Bones Sphinx

    I had assumed the thing she was standing on was a casket or sepulchre or something, not a full-sized building. Nice painting, by the way
  6. Hello, it's been a while. Have some picspam.

    Excellent work. I'm glad you got the urge to paint again — don't burn yourself out!
  7. Boggy Bits

    Figures are British WW1 staff officers from Peter Pig This terrain piece is somewhat experimental, inasmuch as I wanted to try out using very cheap (and pretty terrible) 5-minute epoxy resin for the water effects. I wanted something to go at one end of my river pieces (here and here), so they don't necessarily have to go from edge to edge of the table. The water doesn't match those pieces though, so that may not be a goer — I'll just have to see how much the difference scrapes on my nerves when the pieces are actually in play. The no-name epoxy I used was some I found on a clearance rack at a local hardware chain store, for about three bucks per 50ml syringe. At that price, I figured I wasn't risking much except my time if it didn't work. I mixed it along with about 5-10ml of acetone to thin it, and I added some sepia acrylic ink — far too much, as it turned out — to colour it. The results are as you see, only partially successful. With the acetone and ink added, it took a lot longer to cure than it said on the label, but that was a good thing as it gave me more working time to nudge it into all the nooks and crannies. In very shallow areas, close up against the flocking, it has greyed out somewhat. I suspect that's because the PVA I used to seal the flock wasn't fully dry, and some of it has migrated into the epoxy. It's not a tragedy for this piece, because it just looks like muddy, swampy muck, but it would have been problematic if I'd needed clear water throughout. Whether it was because of the additives or not I don't know, but when it cured, this epoxy developed a waxy bloom that had to be wiped off. I was a bit relieved when I found that it could be wiped off. The epoxy has one advantage over the polyester casting resin I've used, and that is that it doesn't smell, but that's it's only advantage. It is much thicker, and really does need the addition of acetone to make it usable at all, and it creates a pronounced meniscus as it cures. It doesn't create the slight surface ripple that the polyester does, so it doesn't look as convincingly liquid. One thing: it would have been better to have attached the dam across the river-mouth end so that it leaned out at a slight angle. That way, when I trimmed off the meniscus, it would leave a vertical edge, and the water surface would remain shiny and flat right up to the edge. I didn't do that, so when I trimmed the meniscus it left a scar across that edge.
  8. Here's the first piece of bog terrain finished. I originally intended to use a 5-minute epoxy and acetone mix for the water, but I can no longer find really cheap and nasty epoxy — I used to be able to get 40ml syringes for just a couple of bucks, but now the cheapest ones I could find are closer to ten. So, instead I used polyester casting resin, which costs about thirty bucks for a 250ml can. There are down-sides to using the polyester: First, it stinks to high heaven while it's curing. Second, the disposable plastic cups I used for mixing are dissolved by it — I had to do a rapid transfer into another vessel before it ended up all over everything. Third, it's very, very clear, which would normally be a good thing, but for this purpose it could have done with being a bit more murky. I added some colouring, but not quite enough, so the water looks more lake-ish than boggy. Fourth, it's quite a bit thicker than water, so the meniscus is more pronounced, and it takes a bit of persuasion to flow into all the nooks and crannies. However, I was pretty much expecting that and I'm not heartbroken by it. The vehicle in the picture is my 3d-printed 1/100 scale Burford-Kegresse machine-gun carrier.
  9. Unless you're looking at paint chips painted with the actual paint in question, colour charts are never going to be truly accurate. Colour rendition in any medium has its own range, called "gamut", and it differs depending on how the colour is displayed. A computer monitor's RGB range has a different gamut to CMYK offset printing, which in turn has a different gamut to a 6-colour inkjet printer, and so on. In short: colour charts are not quite useless, but they're indicative only and not to be relied on.
  10. Stripping Bones with Simple Green

    It usually won't matter at all. If it's still that well stuck on, it's unlikely to lift under a new coat of paint.
  11. FitzBones: E.H.P.

    Here's another Bones Kickstarter figure. I don't know what the SKU is for this one, or even if it's for sale yet — it seems to take quite a while for the Kickstarter figures to filter through to the online shop. I like it mainly for the over-the-top shield. I have a weakness for that sort of thing, probably from early exposure to the old Warhammer stuff back in the day. For those unfamiliar with the term: E.H.P. stands for Evil High Priest. I don't know if it's still used, but it was common shorthand back in the distant primeval past.
  12. FitzBones: Halfling

    The newest character in my AD&D campaign is Oswalt Tenpenny, a halfling fighter-thief. So, I thought I'd better hunt out a halfling figure and paint it up. This is a plastic Bones miniature, but I have no idea what the SKU is. As it turns out, Steve (the player) already has a halfling figure of his own, but never mind. I'm sure this one will come in handy one day.
  13. Here they are, all done and ready for the gaming table. All the finishing is via my usual flocking and what-not, so they don't look appreciably different to any other pieces I've made — which is a good thing, I guess. Sculptamold is not a perfect landscaping material for game terrain, but it does have many virtues, and on balance I think I quite like it.
  14. Terrain pieces made from this stuff definitely need to be on a protective base of some sort. It's not nearly as bad at chipping as regular plaster, but the bottom edges of the rocky outcrop (no base) are proving to be vulnerable, and since I didn't stain it when I mixed it, any breakage or cracking shows up really starkly.
  15. OK, so here are the two pieces, painted but not yet flocked and vegetated. The SculptaMold takes longer to set fully than I'd assumed from Luke's video, but I have a little toaster-oven, and an hour or so in that at its lowest heat got everything set solid. Something that this stuff has in common with regular plaster is that it's bright, bright white. I think it would be a good idea to add some ink or paint or something to the mixing water, to stain it it right through. That way, any pin-pricks of white left behind after painting will be avoided. The river banks have been left just as the stuff goes on wet, and you can see that it has quite a knobbly texture. The SculptaMold on the little rocky outcrop was smoothed a bit with wet fingers after it had stiffened up, but not set fully, and it's a lot smoother where I did that. It looks a bit rugged in this photo, because the bark pieces forming the cliff face are facing the camera.