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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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    Christchurch, New Zealand

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  1. MojoBob

    Photography C&C please (photo heavy)

    A reflector (or another, less powerful, lamp) aimed into the shadows for minis like the giant-hatted wizard would help with avoiding those featureless black shadows.
  2. MojoBob

    Forced perspective

    Having done this (many years ago) when I was working in a museum display department, the best piece of advice I can give is that you MUST force the audience to view it from a very specific aspect. Even a shift of a couple of degrees either side in the viewpoint makes a forced perspective scene fall to pieces.
  3. MojoBob

    Metallics for classic steel

    I haven't tried the Vallejo MetalColor, though I've read good things about it, but I do like their ModelAir metallics. Because they're so thin, they generally need two or three coats when brushed on, but the finish is very smooth. Of the ModelColor range, the one I use most is Oiled Steel — it's not as bright as Silver, not as dark as Gun Metal. I generally thin it with flow-aid and apply it, like the ModelAir, in several thin coats.
  4. MojoBob


    This is one of Duncan Louca's Hags, printed on my Ender 3 (0.08mm layer height, eSun PLA+, total height to the top of the spikes is 44mm). I got quite a lot of zits and boogers from the supports on this one, but she's so warty and festering that rather than trimming them off, I just turned them into zits and boogers.
  5. MojoBob

    Z brush

    I have a Creality Ender 3 FDM printer, which was very cheap (about $US200) and has served me very well, and relatively speaking, has run pretty painlessly and trouble-free. However, 3d printing is not yet a plug-and-play technology; you're going to have to do quite a bit of tinkering even with quite expensive machines. Here's an example of the output from the Ender 3, using a Fat Dragon supportless 28mm skeleton model in three quality settings. The best quality (0.04mm layer height) took about 4½ hours to print, the lowest (0.12mm layer height) took just over an hour. So, it's not instantaneous Star Trek replicator technology by any means. If your main focus is going to be miniatures rather than terrain or other larger pieces, then you'll want to end up using a resin printer for the higher resolutions that are achievable, and the Anycubic Photon is probably the best bang for a beginner's buck at the moment. However, I'd highly recommend that you start out with an FDM machine, as filament printing is much, much cheaper to learn the ins and outs of designing for 3d printing, not to mention less messy and toxic.
  6. MojoBob

    Airbrushes I Have Known

    Here's the result of my Sotar 20-20's first real outing. It's a 1:100 scale Zvezda Jagdtiger (a German late WWII heavy tank killer). The figure is a 15mm German Grenadier from Battlefront. The camouflage is all straight freehand airbrushing, using Vallejo acrylics (VMC colours, mainly) and the Medium needle and tip the airbrush came with. There's a Fine needle/tip kit on its way to me at the moment, but I'm not sure it will really be necessary for my purposes; I'll give it a go of course, but tinier tips are more prone to clogging, and they're less tolerant of paint buildup on the needle. I really, really like the Badger Sotar 20-20.
  7. tl;dr — I like Badger. The combination of the 105 Patriot for general work and the Sotar 20-20 for detail work is an excellent one. My thoughts on all my airbrushes are posted at http://mojobob.blogspot.com/search/label/airbrush My very first airbrush was a Badger 150 bottom-feed which I got in the late 1970s, and it gave me fantastic service for decades. I would be using it still, except that i wanted to try a gravity-feed brush to speed up colour changing and to allow me to use paint in smaller quantities and at lower pressures. I'd had a brief play with a Paasche airbrush at art school, and liked it a lot. So, in 2013 I bought myself a Paasche Talon with an extra-fine head and needle set. That was rather a disappointment; the engineering quality and finish was not great, the trigger was quite stiff and tended to stick, and it was very difficult to get a controllable spray pattern as a result. These days I have the largest head and needle installed, and only use it for high-pressure base-coating and terrain spraying, for which its large capacity reservoir comes in handy. A couple of years later, in 2015, I took advantage of a sale at the late lamented Chicago Airbrush Supply and got myself a Badger 105 Patriot. This was a huge improvement over the Talon. It was billed as an all-purpose nozzle/needle system, not needing separate fine or coarse tips or needles, and though that was a bit hyperbolic, it has proved to be my favourite workhorse brush. The Patriot is a truly excellent brush, and the one I always recommend as a beginner's first brush. I also bought a couple of single-action brushes: a Paasche H suction-feed for coarse work with large-capacity jars and a Badger 200 gravity feed for fine line work. They're both fine, within their own limitations, but I seldom use them. The Badger 200 does come into its own when I want to do a lot of fine, regular lines or dots though, as I can just set it to the width I want and go to town without having to worry about juggling with a double-action trigger. My most recent purchases have been a Badger Renegade Krome and a Badger Sotar 20-20. They're both truly excellent brushes for fine detail work, but of the two I would say the Sotar has the edge in terms of engineering quality. I have never used another airbrush with such a fantastically smooth, controllable trigger. Unfortunately, the people I bought the Sotar from (and who messed me around for nearly a year before they eventually sent me anything at all) sent it with the Medium head and needle instead of the Fine that I'd ordered, but by the time it finally arrived I was just happy to get it and never to do business with them again, so I've ordered a Fine conversion set from elsewhere which is winging its way here even as I type. I'm eager to try it out; even with the Medium tip installed it's a real beauty, and I suspect it will end up being my go-to brush for any kind of detail work.
  8. MojoBob

    Paasche model H airbrush review

    tl;dr — I like Badger. The combination of the 105 Patriot for general work and the Sotar 20-20 for detail work is an excellent one. My thoughts on all my airbrushes are posted at http://mojobob.blogspot.com/search/label/airbrush
  9. Yes, I have. It would probably be best to use the high-intensity dyes intended for use with plaster, as the Sculptamold's whiteness lightens paints a lot. However, adding more water-based paint doesn't seem to affect the stuff's curing much, if at all, and chips and what-not are certainly less obvious.
  10. It's pretty light once it's dried thoroughly. Its edges are vulnerable though, so I always use a base plate of some sort. It occurs to me (though I haven't tried it yet) that you could reinforce the edges by covering them with toilet paper or similar soft tissue soaked in PVA.
  11. I use Sculptamold pretty much exclusively these days for the basic groundwork. It's so much easier than any of the other methods I've tried. It definitely needs to be laid down on some sort of base though, as the edges can be prone to damage if unsupported. I usually use 3mm MDF. The rock faces are cheap epoxy putty, pressed into Woodland Scenics rubber moulds. The foot bridge is one that I made on my 3d printer. The steps were just pressed and shaped into the Sculptamold after it had set for ten or fifteen minutes.
  12. MojoBob

    Nothic (Bones ghast conversion)

    Excellent job — it really is a good representation of the original artwork as I remember it. The ghast was a good choice for the base figure.
  13. MojoBob

    Flame Skull (3d print)

    I printed Miguel Zavala's Flame Skull, and put it on a clear acrylic flight stand. It's shown here with the ever-reliable Sergeant Measureby and his +3 Spear of 5mm Increments. I struggle a bit with painting flames and hotness, like hot metal or lava, but I'm relatively happy with how this turned out. I got a bit of stringing amongst the flame spikes, but I can't say that was unexpected. Printed at 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle in eSun PLA+
  14. MojoBob

    Nuln vs Agrax

    I quite often use a 50/50 mix of the two. Pure Nuln Oil is too stark and cartoonish, pure Agrax Earthshade is too brown and warm. The combination of the two gives me the darkness I want, with a touch of colour. Alternately, I'll do an overall wash with Agrax and then come back in with Nuln in selected areas to pump up specific shadow regions.
  15. MojoBob

    Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

    It looks great. Very reminiscent of some of the Chinese "Seated Buddha" statuettes I've seen.