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MojoBob

Bones Supporter
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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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About MojoBob

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  1. MojoBob

    Rogue Raccoon

    That's coming along nicely. I like the naturalistic creases and folds in the fabric; it always works out so much better from a life model than from the imagination.
  2. MojoBob

    Fitz's Demon Idol OSL

    Here's my low-rez FDM 3d printed PHB Demon Idol, all painted up. It turned out all right, if I do say so myself. I haven't really tried OSL (object source lighting) painting before, so I wasn't quite sure how to approach it, but I think I managed a decent result for a first try. I ironed most of the larger surfaces with a soldering iron before I started painting, to minimise as far as possible the layering from the 3d printing process. It worked OK for a model like this, but it would be a bit coarse a process for a more delicate model. Unfortunately, PLA doesn't respond to acetone vapour the way that ABS does, so there's no really decent smoothing shortcut. Some people paint the surfaces with epoxy or self-levelling polyurethane.
  3. I shouldn't think you'd have too much trouble with epoxy, but just make sure that's what it is, as not all clear resins are the same. Polyesters heat up much more than epoxies when they cure in a mass, sometimes enough to cook and discolour themselves, which is one reason why large masses of polyester are poured in layers. Also, laminating resins often cure very much hotter than casting resins, but they often look and smell exactly the same.
  4. I like to start with an off-white base colour, and then add successive glazes with a coarse bristle brush, starting with a yellow ochre, heavier at the base of the horn, and finishing with something like burnt umber towards the tip. The coarse brush gives you an irregular fibrous look to the horns that I prefer to a perfectly smooth gradation. It's also a good way of producing wood grain.
  5. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    I think somebody has taken over their old business assets. I had nothing but good experiences with CAS, completely different to this mob.
  6. MojoBob

    Diorama, Little Cthulhu Rising

    That's good. Really, really good.
  7. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    I ordered it — and paid for it — from Midwest Airbrush Supply months and months ago, and haven't seen a thing. Eventually, after a whole lot of unanswered emails, they finally put in a missing mail report to USPS, but that was a couple of months ago and I still don't have my Sotar. I can't say that I'm all that impressed with their customer service.
  8. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    Fantastic. My favourite airbrush ever. I posted about my first impressions here: http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2018/03/renegade-krome-first-outing.html — but it doesn't amount to much except "I love this airbrush!" It's probably not the best choice for a beginner though; for someone starting out who wants a good airbrush that will do just about everything and is easy to use and maintain, I'd highly recommend the Badger Patriot 105 gravity-feed, with the medium all-purpose head/needle to begin with, and the super-fine set for when they start to get a bit more adept. I did a brief review of the Patriot here: http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2015/05/badger-105-patriot-review.html
  9. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    I have both the Paasche Talon and the Badger Krome (very similar to the Sotar). I absolutely love the Krome, I was very disappointed with the Talon — especially in the engineering of its valve and trigger, which are very stiff and sticky, even when lubricated. It feels like the surfaces haven't been polished properly. Also, the paint cup on the Talon is, I feel, too high for a modelling airbrush; it gets in the way of the user's view when you're working in close. I've used Paasche brushes in the past, and they were great to use, but the standard of finish seems to have really dropped off in recent years. Based on my experience of the Talon, I wouldn't buy another Paasche.
  10. MojoBob

    77185 Large Earth Elemental (Magma version)

    That looks really hot! I haven't had much success with that sort of thing myself, so I'll be referring back to this one next time I give it a go.
  11. MojoBob

    How to make a cheap light box

    I made a light-box for very little money out of a cheap plastic storage box, some white posterboard, and a couple of clip-on lamps. I've detailed the process, and the reasoning behind it, on my blog at http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2018/05/photographic-light-box-on-cheap.html — there are more pictures there as well.
  12. MojoBob

    Gorge

    I wouldn't leave SculptaMold edges completely unprotected, but if it's on a base (I use 3mm MDF with chamfered edges) it stands up to a reasonable amount of punishment. It's stronger than plaster alone, but not as strong as resin or plastic, of course.
  13. MojoBob

    Metallic Dragon's gloss or no gloss?

    If it's a Bones figure, I don't bother with varnishing at all these days unless I have unwanted shine to get rid of, or I want to add a gloss accent to something. On metal figures, I like a satin finish varnish over metallics rather than a full gloss. It gives a bit of reflection without making everything look wet.
  14. MojoBob

    Gorge

    No, it's all cast plaster (for the rocks) and SculptaMold (which is a paper fibre and plaster mix) for the rest of the groundwork. The dirt and vegetation is all home-made sawdust flock.
  15. MojoBob

    WotC Lich repaint

    This is a re-paint of one of Wizards of the Coast's pre-painted plastic D&D miniatures. According to the information moulded under the base, it's a Lich Necromancer. I tried to get his cloak looking like a fairly freshly flayed skin, though with fairly limited success. WotC's pre-painted miniatures are extremely variable in quality, both in sculpting and in painting. This isn't one of their best in either respect, but neither is it one of their worst.
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