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MojoBob

Bones Supporter
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MojoBob last won the day on September 11 2013

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About MojoBob

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  1. Stage 4 Now it's time for some vegetation to bring the scene to life. The grass is a mixture of several shades of sawdust and foam flock, and the bushes are just bits of clump foam soaked in diluted PVA. This will probably do as a finished piece now. I may revisit the painting of the river, but probably not.
  2. Stage 3 The river. That's just painted, with varying shades of green to indicate depth, and then varnished with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane. I choose that over a gloss acrylic, because it gives a smoother, harder gloss than any acrylic varnish I've found. The down-side is that it takes a very long time to cure, at least 24 hours to be safe. I wanted the river to look deep and quite fast-flowing, so apart from some areas at the edges where I wanted to suggest shelving rock, it's all in quite dark tones, with bright highlights to suggest patches of white water. I think that possibly I should have included a bit more blue to the green, but I think it's probably too late now unless I want to repaint it from scratch. I'll live with it for a while and see how much it bugs me.
  3. Stage 2 All the groundwork and the bridge's stonework has been painted. Everything is painted in very loose blotches of yellow ochre, burnt sienna, and raw umber. The paint is quite liquid, so it spreads through the plaster of the groundwork and creeps into cracks and things. At this stage it looks pretty lurid and awful, but not to worry. Next everything is covered in a black wash, which tones down all the colours and ties them together harmoniously. Hints of the original blotches still show through, so you don't get a monotonous grey overall. Last, everything gets a dry-brushing in pure white, which delineates the highlights, and also gives the effect of stone in the process of being weathered over centuries by water, wind and frost.
  4. I've made a start on a new piece of scenery, a foot bridge crossing a narrow stretch of river. The tile is sized to fit with my other river pieces, but I'd like it to be an attractive little standalone model in its own right. We shall see. The bridge is one that I 3d-printed from a model I found on Thingiverse; I thought it was bigger when I started printing it, but it will do OK as a foot bridge — its total length is about 70mm. The base is 3mm MDF, sealed with black spray primer. The rock formations are DAS air-drying clay, press-moulded into Woodland Scenics rubber rock moulds, and the rest of the groundwork is SculptaMold plaster/paper goop. The steps and flagstones are just pressed and scribed into that once it had firmed up but not actually set hard.
  5. MojoBob

    FitzBones: Gnome Wizard

    89023: Balazar, Iconic Summoner by Bobby Jackson I assume this figure is meant to be a gnome; he's very short for a human, and he's lacking the beard of a dwarf. I find painting yellows and oranges very difficult. They tend to be colours with very low opacity, and getting an even coverage requires several coats.
  6. 89031: Whispering Tyrant by Bobby Jackson From time to time, when I need a very quick miniature that doesn't look completely unpainted, I'll pump out something along these lines. This has been primed black, and then had a zenithal spray of white applied to give me some very fast basic modelling shading and highlights. Then I've added some washes in various colours — mossy khaki green, sepia, and ochre to emphasise the detail and add just a suggestion of colour, with a touch of dry-brushing in bone-white to pull out the highlights some more. It's very fast, and at the end of it I have something that looks more like a little statuette than a raw unpainted gaming miniature. It's something I wouldn't be embarrassed to put on the table, and for spooky, ghostly things like this particular figure, it can probably just stay like this forever. However, for other sorts of miniatures, this state can later act as underpainting for a more finished paint-job.
  7. MojoBob

    FitzBones: Anonymous Dwarf

    Here's a Dwarf warrior from Reaper. It's one of the plastic Bones miniatures. I don't know what the SKU is; it came with one of the Kickstarters. I started it as a very quick demo piece just to show a friend how the Citadel washes work, but I decided that since I'd started it I might as well finish it off. I wanted the armour to look a bit battered, and maybe a bit fresh from the forge, not polished smooth. So the metallic highlighting has been applied in spots and blotches rather than smoothly.
  8. MojoBob

    Paint mediums

    They will allow you to create more and more translucent glazes, depending on the ratio of paint to medium, without risking the paint's binders disassociating as they can do when excessively thinned with water. Whether a medium has any thinning effect — that is, making the paint looser and more liquid — depends on the medium itself, as they come in a wide range of viscosities, from as thin as water to as thick as paste for impasto effects.
  9. MojoBob

    The Vulgar Cephalopod

    This ill-mannered octopus is a model I found on Thingiverse and printed on my el-cheapo Ender 3 FDM 3d printer. It's printed in PLA at 0.08mm layer height; from memory it took about three hours. Next to it is Sergeant Measureby, for scale. Each of the divisions on his spear is 5mm. He's a very old Essex mediaeval wargaming figure from the mid '80s.
  10. MojoBob

    Paleolithic Graffiti

    I made these primitive runestones in Blender and printed them on my little 3d printer. I thought the first one was a bit boring, so I added a bunch of skulls around the base of the second for that cannibal-headhunter vibe. They're on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3010064 The miniature is from Reaper, the figure I use to represent my oldest (surviving) D&D character from back in 1981, Smirnoff the Huge and Ugly. There was one earlier character from my very first roleplaying session, but I don't even remember his name — he was blown to smithereens in that same session by being too close to an overly-curious halfling thief.
  11. MojoBob

    Lidless Eye Hobbies: 3d print Atropal

    That is beautifully repulsive.
  12. MojoBob

    Fitz's DragonLock Skeletons

    Creality Ender-3
  13. MojoBob

    Fitz's DragonLock Skeletons

    This is the DragonLock newsletter freebie skeleton STL that I printed the other day in 0.04 mm, 0.08 mm, and 0.16 mm layer heights to see how the difference in quality affected them as playing pieces. They've been painted very quickly, with just a black primer and white zenithal shading, followed by coloured ink glazes and an Agrax Earthshade wash. I picked out some of the bone highlights to finish. I wasn't keeping close track of time, but I guess each one took about ten or twelve minutes to complete, not counting drying times. Unsurprisingly, the finest layer heights suited the glaze and wash paint method the best, but even the coarsest will do fine as one of a large group of mooks — at tabletop distances, the difference in detail is insignificant, to my eyes at least. Though having said that, my eyesight is pretty crappy.
  14. MojoBob

    Flail Snail

    I repainted its front-polyps (eyes maybe?) to look a bit more fleshy and a bit less toothy.
  15. MojoBob

    Flail Snail

    The Flail Snail is one of the goofier monsters to be created for D&D. I think it came from the Fiend Folio, though I'm not 100% sure and I'm too lazy to look it up right now. Here's a 3d-printed model of it, along with Scaley the Filthy Bartender (from Reaper) for scale. The model was made by Miguel Zavala, and printed by me at 0.08mm layer height in PLA. The colour scheme is taken, more or less, from the D&D 5e illustration. I've tried to represent the iridescent shell by spraying random blobs of transparent inks over a silver base coat, and then applying liberal coats of gloss varnish; I think it turned out OK, though in retrospect I think I did the colours in the wrong order — I did blue and green first, which cooled the yellow and red. If I did it again, I'd start with red and yellow so that I could see where to avoid them with the blue and green.
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