Jump to content


MojoBob

Bones Supporter
  • Content count

    283
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by MojoBob

  1. MojoBob

    Fitz's Demon Idol OSL

    Here's my low-rez FDM 3d printed PHB Demon Idol, all painted up. It turned out all right, if I do say so myself. I haven't really tried OSL (object source lighting) painting before, so I wasn't quite sure how to approach it, but I think I managed a decent result for a first try. I ironed most of the larger surfaces with a soldering iron before I started painting, to minimise as far as possible the layering from the 3d printing process. It worked OK for a model like this, but it would be a bit coarse a process for a more delicate model. Unfortunately, PLA doesn't respond to acetone vapour the way that ABS does, so there's no really decent smoothing shortcut. Some people paint the surfaces with epoxy or self-levelling polyurethane.
  2. I shouldn't think you'd have too much trouble with epoxy, but just make sure that's what it is, as not all clear resins are the same. Polyesters heat up much more than epoxies when they cure in a mass, sometimes enough to cook and discolour themselves, which is one reason why large masses of polyester are poured in layers. Also, laminating resins often cure very much hotter than casting resins, but they often look and smell exactly the same.
  3. I like to start with an off-white base colour, and then add successive glazes with a coarse bristle brush, starting with a yellow ochre, heavier at the base of the horn, and finishing with something like burnt umber towards the tip. The coarse brush gives you an irregular fibrous look to the horns that I prefer to a perfectly smooth gradation. It's also a good way of producing wood grain.
  4. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    I think somebody has taken over their old business assets. I had nothing but good experiences with CAS, completely different to this mob.
  5. MojoBob

    Diorama, Little Cthulhu Rising

    That's good. Really, really good.
  6. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    I ordered it — and paid for it — from Midwest Airbrush Supply months and months ago, and haven't seen a thing. Eventually, after a whole lot of unanswered emails, they finally put in a missing mail report to USPS, but that was a couple of months ago and I still don't have my Sotar. I can't say that I'm all that impressed with their customer service.
  7. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    Fantastic. My favourite airbrush ever. I posted about my first impressions here: http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2018/03/renegade-krome-first-outing.html — but it doesn't amount to much except "I love this airbrush!" It's probably not the best choice for a beginner though; for someone starting out who wants a good airbrush that will do just about everything and is easy to use and maintain, I'd highly recommend the Badger Patriot 105 gravity-feed, with the medium all-purpose head/needle to begin with, and the super-fine set for when they start to get a bit more adept. I did a brief review of the Patriot here: http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2015/05/badger-105-patriot-review.html
  8. MojoBob

    Badger Sotar 20/20 v/s Paasche Talon

    I have both the Paasche Talon and the Badger Krome (very similar to the Sotar). I absolutely love the Krome, I was very disappointed with the Talon — especially in the engineering of its valve and trigger, which are very stiff and sticky, even when lubricated. It feels like the surfaces haven't been polished properly. Also, the paint cup on the Talon is, I feel, too high for a modelling airbrush; it gets in the way of the user's view when you're working in close. I've used Paasche brushes in the past, and they were great to use, but the standard of finish seems to have really dropped off in recent years. Based on my experience of the Talon, I wouldn't buy another Paasche.
  9. MojoBob

    77185 Large Earth Elemental (Magma version)

    That looks really hot! I haven't had much success with that sort of thing myself, so I'll be referring back to this one next time I give it a go.
  10. This is my latest terrain piece for my tabletop games, a small gorge. It's about 300 x 150 mm, and at its deepest the gorge is about 30 mm deep. It's not wide enough for vehicles in any scale larger than 6mm or 10-12mm. Maybe a jeep in 15mm, certainly nothing larger. There's just enough of a bend in it that you can't see right through from end to end. I suspect that the rock formations would make geologists clench their fists and grind their teeth, but fortunately, I'm not a geologist.
  11. MojoBob

    WotC Lich repaint

    This is a re-paint of one of Wizards of the Coast's pre-painted plastic D&D miniatures. According to the information moulded under the base, it's a Lich Necromancer. I tried to get his cloak looking like a fairly freshly flayed skin, though with fairly limited success. WotC's pre-painted miniatures are extremely variable in quality, both in sculpting and in painting. This isn't one of their best in either respect, but neither is it one of their worst.
  12. MojoBob

    How to make a cheap light box

    I made a light-box for very little money out of a cheap plastic storage box, some white posterboard, and a couple of clip-on lamps. I've detailed the process, and the reasoning behind it, on my blog at http://mojobob.blogspot.co.nz/2018/05/photographic-light-box-on-cheap.html — there are more pictures there as well.
  13. MojoBob

    Gorge

    I wouldn't leave SculptaMold edges completely unprotected, but if it's on a base (I use 3mm MDF with chamfered edges) it stands up to a reasonable amount of punishment. It's stronger than plaster alone, but not as strong as resin or plastic, of course.
  14. MojoBob

    Metallic Dragon's gloss or no gloss?

    If it's a Bones figure, I don't bother with varnishing at all these days unless I have unwanted shine to get rid of, or I want to add a gloss accent to something. On metal figures, I like a satin finish varnish over metallics rather than a full gloss. It gives a bit of reflection without making everything look wet.
  15. MojoBob

    Gorge

    No, it's all cast plaster (for the rocks) and SculptaMold (which is a paper fibre and plaster mix) for the rest of the groundwork. The dirt and vegetation is all home-made sawdust flock.
  16. MojoBob

    Travelling with minis

    I use magnets to secure my 1/300 scale wargaming stuff for transport and storage. The way I do it is by laying out the magnets on a silicone baking sheet over a piece of steel — in this case, a ruler. The magnets are strong enough to grip through the rubber sheet. Then I add a dab of 5-minute epoxy to the top of the magnet, and one to the bottom of the model, and put the model over the magnet. I prefer to use epoxy rather than cyanoacrylate because it encapsulates the whole thing, and there's less chance of it coming away because the nickel plating has come loose, which can happen especially with cheap magnets. Also, it's gap-filling, which means that it doesn't matter if the magnet is thinner than the gap it sits in; the glue will fill the space. This method guarantees that the magnet is perfectly flush with the bottom of the model's wheels or tracks or whatever. If you want to use magnets to secure things like turrets or guns or hands or equipment or whatever, the thing to do is to emplace one magnet in the socket first, and let the glue cure. Then add a separator to the area and pop another magnet to the one already embedded. I usually use cling-film; grease or vaseline also works, but will have to be thoroughly cleaned away before painting. With that second magnet held in place by the first, just glue the second component over the top, held in place however you like — blu-tak or plasticine work well. This ensures that you have perfect registration between the two magnets, and it also guarantees that you don't accidentally get the polarities wrong.
  17. MojoBob

    Speed paint monsters Hoard of the Dragon Queen

    Maybe it's just some kind of internet weirdness, but I'm not seeing any pictures....?
  18. MojoBob

    Airbrush Assembly Question

    My Patriot also has that gap. I can't remember for sure whether it was like that before I disassembled it for the first time, but I think not since I noticed it was there at some stage. I haven't noticed it making much, if any, difference to the operation of the brush, which is still my go-to workhorse.
  19. MojoBob

    Basilisk

    Those eyebrow scales are a big improvement. It's a really nice model, so kudos!
  20. MojoBob

    Basilisk

    The eyebrow-horns aren't working, but what if you get rid of them and build up its brow ridges a bit? The ridges could be shaped to give the facial expression a bit more menace. [EDIT] Ah, like what you've just done in fact :)
  21. MojoBob

    Bones Sphinx

    I had assumed the thing she was standing on was a casket or sepulchre or something, not a full-sized building. Nice painting, by the way
  22. MojoBob

    Hello, it's been a while. Have some picspam.

    Excellent work. I'm glad you got the urge to paint again — don't burn yourself out!
  23. Here's the first piece of bog terrain finished. I originally intended to use a 5-minute epoxy and acetone mix for the water, but I can no longer find really cheap and nasty epoxy — I used to be able to get 40ml syringes for just a couple of bucks, but now the cheapest ones I could find are closer to ten. So, instead I used polyester casting resin, which costs about thirty bucks for a 250ml can. There are down-sides to using the polyester: First, it stinks to high heaven while it's curing. Second, the disposable plastic cups I used for mixing are dissolved by it — I had to do a rapid transfer into another vessel before it ended up all over everything. Third, it's very, very clear, which would normally be a good thing, but for this purpose it could have done with being a bit more murky. I added some colouring, but not quite enough, so the water looks more lake-ish than boggy. Fourth, it's quite a bit thicker than water, so the meniscus is more pronounced, and it takes a bit of persuasion to flow into all the nooks and crannies. However, I was pretty much expecting that and I'm not heartbroken by it. The vehicle in the picture is my 3d-printed 1/100 scale Burford-Kegresse machine-gun carrier.
  24. MojoBob

    Boggy Bits

    Figures are British WW1 staff officers from Peter Pig This terrain piece is somewhat experimental, inasmuch as I wanted to try out using very cheap (and pretty terrible) 5-minute epoxy resin for the water effects. I wanted something to go at one end of my river pieces (here and here), so they don't necessarily have to go from edge to edge of the table. The water doesn't match those pieces though, so that may not be a goer — I'll just have to see how much the difference scrapes on my nerves when the pieces are actually in play. The no-name epoxy I used was some I found on a clearance rack at a local hardware chain store, for about three bucks per 50ml syringe. At that price, I figured I wasn't risking much except my time if it didn't work. I mixed it along with about 5-10ml of acetone to thin it, and I added some sepia acrylic ink — far too much, as it turned out — to colour it. The results are as you see, only partially successful. With the acetone and ink added, it took a lot longer to cure than it said on the label, but that was a good thing as it gave me more working time to nudge it into all the nooks and crannies. In very shallow areas, close up against the flocking, it has greyed out somewhat. I suspect that's because the PVA I used to seal the flock wasn't fully dry, and some of it has migrated into the epoxy. It's not a tragedy for this piece, because it just looks like muddy, swampy muck, but it would have been problematic if I'd needed clear water throughout. Whether it was because of the additives or not I don't know, but when it cured, this epoxy developed a waxy bloom that had to be wiped off. I was a bit relieved when I found that it could be wiped off. The epoxy has one advantage over the polyester casting resin I've used, and that is that it doesn't smell, but that's it's only advantage. It is much thicker, and really does need the addition of acetone to make it usable at all, and it creates a pronounced meniscus as it cures. It doesn't create the slight surface ripple that the polyester does, so it doesn't look as convincingly liquid. One thing: it would have been better to have attached the dam across the river-mouth end so that it leaned out at a slight angle. That way, when I trimmed off the meniscus, it would leave a vertical edge, and the water surface would remain shiny and flat right up to the edge. I didn't do that, so when I trimmed the meniscus it left a scar across that edge.
  25. I'm trying out another river segment, built in pretty much the same way as my first one, but this time I'm using a a material that is new to me, SculptaMold from Amaco. I saw it used on Luke's APS on Youtube and liked the look of it, so I popped down and bought a bag from Gordon Harris art supplies. It cost me about twenty-two bucks for about 1.3 kg, which should be enough to do a reasonable amount of terrain. It would probably get a bit pricey if you wanted to build a whole table, but for my purposes it's OK. It's a plaster and paper (?) fibre mix; I don't know if there's anything else in there. Depending on the amount of water you use it can be mixed to a cottage cheese-like paste, as I've used it here, or to a more liquid slurry that can be cast in rubber moulds. It sets up more slowly than plain plaster; by the time I'd finished laying out the river banks and setting in all the gravel, it was still quite workable, so I slapped together a little rocky outcrop on a plastic cutting board, using some bits of pine bark and the left-over goop from the river banks. I wasn't really keeping track of time, but I'd guess that you probably have 15 to 20 minutes of working time, which is plenty for most things. When it's wet, it retains a quite knobbly cottage cheese texture, which is fine if it's going to be under flock and stuff. If you want a smoother finish though, just leave it for about another ten minutes or quarter of an hour to stiffen up a bit, and then it can be smoothed with wet fingers or modelling tools, or just with a wet soft brush. It's early days yet, but at first acquaintance I think I'm going to like it.
×