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MojoBob

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by MojoBob

  1. MojoBob

    FitzBones: Gnome Wizard

    89023: Balazar, Iconic Summoner by Bobby Jackson I assume this figure is meant to be a gnome; he's very short for a human, and he's lacking the beard of a dwarf. I find painting yellows and oranges very difficult. They tend to be colours with very low opacity, and getting an even coverage requires several coats.
  2. 89031: Whispering Tyrant by Bobby Jackson From time to time, when I need a very quick miniature that doesn't look completely unpainted, I'll pump out something along these lines. This has been primed black, and then had a zenithal spray of white applied to give me some very fast basic modelling shading and highlights. Then I've added some washes in various colours — mossy khaki green, sepia, and ochre to emphasise the detail and add just a suggestion of colour, with a touch of dry-brushing in bone-white to pull out the highlights some more. It's very fast, and at the end of it I have something that looks more like a little statuette than a raw unpainted gaming miniature. It's something I wouldn't be embarrassed to put on the table, and for spooky, ghostly things like this particular figure, it can probably just stay like this forever. However, for other sorts of miniatures, this state can later act as underpainting for a more finished paint-job.
  3. I've made a start on a new piece of scenery, a foot bridge crossing a narrow stretch of river. The tile is sized to fit with my other river pieces, but I'd like it to be an attractive little standalone model in its own right. We shall see. The bridge is one that I 3d-printed from a model I found on Thingiverse; I thought it was bigger when I started printing it, but it will do OK as a foot bridge — its total length is about 70mm. The base is 3mm MDF, sealed with black spray primer. The rock formations are DAS air-drying clay, press-moulded into Woodland Scenics rubber rock moulds, and the rest of the groundwork is SculptaMold plaster/paper goop. The steps and flagstones are just pressed and scribed into that once it had firmed up but not actually set hard.
  4. Stage 4 Now it's time for some vegetation to bring the scene to life. The grass is a mixture of several shades of sawdust and foam flock, and the bushes are just bits of clump foam soaked in diluted PVA. This will probably do as a finished piece now. I may revisit the painting of the river, but probably not.
  5. Stage 3 The river. That's just painted, with varying shades of green to indicate depth, and then varnished with a high-gloss oil-based polyurethane. I choose that over a gloss acrylic, because it gives a smoother, harder gloss than any acrylic varnish I've found. The down-side is that it takes a very long time to cure, at least 24 hours to be safe. I wanted the river to look deep and quite fast-flowing, so apart from some areas at the edges where I wanted to suggest shelving rock, it's all in quite dark tones, with bright highlights to suggest patches of white water. I think that possibly I should have included a bit more blue to the green, but I think it's probably too late now unless I want to repaint it from scratch. I'll live with it for a while and see how much it bugs me.
  6. Stage 2 All the groundwork and the bridge's stonework has been painted. Everything is painted in very loose blotches of yellow ochre, burnt sienna, and raw umber. The paint is quite liquid, so it spreads through the plaster of the groundwork and creeps into cracks and things. At this stage it looks pretty lurid and awful, but not to worry. Next everything is covered in a black wash, which tones down all the colours and ties them together harmoniously. Hints of the original blotches still show through, so you don't get a monotonous grey overall. Last, everything gets a dry-brushing in pure white, which delineates the highlights, and also gives the effect of stone in the process of being weathered over centuries by water, wind and frost.
  7. MojoBob

    FitzBones: Anonymous Dwarf

    Here's a Dwarf warrior from Reaper. It's one of the plastic Bones miniatures. I don't know what the SKU is; it came with one of the Kickstarters. I started it as a very quick demo piece just to show a friend how the Citadel washes work, but I decided that since I'd started it I might as well finish it off. I wanted the armour to look a bit battered, and maybe a bit fresh from the forge, not polished smooth. So the metallic highlighting has been applied in spots and blotches rather than smoothly.
  8. MojoBob

    The Vulgar Cephalopod

    This ill-mannered octopus is a model I found on Thingiverse and printed on my el-cheapo Ender 3 FDM 3d printer. It's printed in PLA at 0.08mm layer height; from memory it took about three hours. Next to it is Sergeant Measureby, for scale. Each of the divisions on his spear is 5mm. He's a very old Essex mediaeval wargaming figure from the mid '80s.
  9. MojoBob

    Paint mediums

    They will allow you to create more and more translucent glazes, depending on the ratio of paint to medium, without risking the paint's binders disassociating as they can do when excessively thinned with water. Whether a medium has any thinning effect — that is, making the paint looser and more liquid — depends on the medium itself, as they come in a wide range of viscosities, from as thin as water to as thick as paste for impasto effects.
  10. MojoBob

    Paleolithic Graffiti

    I made these primitive runestones in Blender and printed them on my little 3d printer. I thought the first one was a bit boring, so I added a bunch of skulls around the base of the second for that cannibal-headhunter vibe. They're on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3010064 The miniature is from Reaper, the figure I use to represent my oldest (surviving) D&D character from back in 1981, Smirnoff the Huge and Ugly. There was one earlier character from my very first roleplaying session, but I don't even remember his name — he was blown to smithereens in that same session by being too close to an overly-curious halfling thief.
  11. MojoBob

    Fitz's DragonLock Skeletons

    This is the DragonLock newsletter freebie skeleton STL that I printed the other day in 0.04 mm, 0.08 mm, and 0.16 mm layer heights to see how the difference in quality affected them as playing pieces. They've been painted very quickly, with just a black primer and white zenithal shading, followed by coloured ink glazes and an Agrax Earthshade wash. I picked out some of the bone highlights to finish. I wasn't keeping close track of time, but I guess each one took about ten or twelve minutes to complete, not counting drying times. Unsurprisingly, the finest layer heights suited the glaze and wash paint method the best, but even the coarsest will do fine as one of a large group of mooks — at tabletop distances, the difference in detail is insignificant, to my eyes at least. Though having said that, my eyesight is pretty crappy.
  12. MojoBob

    Flail Snail

    The Flail Snail is one of the goofier monsters to be created for D&D. I think it came from the Fiend Folio, though I'm not 100% sure and I'm too lazy to look it up right now. Here's a 3d-printed model of it, along with Scaley the Filthy Bartender (from Reaper) for scale. The model was made by Miguel Zavala, and printed by me at 0.08mm layer height in PLA. The colour scheme is taken, more or less, from the D&D 5e illustration. I've tried to represent the iridescent shell by spraying random blobs of transparent inks over a silver base coat, and then applying liberal coats of gloss varnish; I think it turned out OK, though in retrospect I think I did the colours in the wrong order — I did blue and green first, which cooled the yellow and red. If I did it again, I'd start with red and yellow so that I could see where to avoid them with the blue and green.
  13. MojoBob

    Lidless Eye Hobbies: 3d print Atropal

    That is beautifully repulsive.
  14. MojoBob

    Fitz's DragonLock Skeletons

    Creality Ender-3
  15. MojoBob

    Flail Snail

    I repainted its front-polyps (eyes maybe?) to look a bit more fleshy and a bit less toothy.
  16. Useful markers for tabletop FRPG games with miniatures, possibly more so than any other dungeonish terrain pieces, are doors. I made this one in Blender and printed it on my Ender 3 at 0.12mm layer height in grey PLA. I've seen quite a few models with hinged, openable doors, but I find them to be of limited usefulness in gaming, and they're always a lot fiddlier to print and assemble than a simple one-piece marker that does essentially the same job. I've yet to come across a printable model that hinges well. A possible compromise might be a two-piece model of door and frame that slots into the hinges, so that the door could be glued either open or closed, or possibly that has very over-sized hinges that could be drilled and pinned.... experimentation awaits. I've uploaded the .STL file to Thingiverse, for free download for anyone who wants to print as many of them as they want. I realised after I started printing it that I'd forgotten to include the latch on the "inside" side of the door — I've updated the .STL since then. Here's the model above in its raw printed PLA plastic:
  17. Here's another, based on the same wall section model: a metal door this time. These are a couple I just finished printing; I haven't got around to painting them yet.
  18. MojoBob

    Using Bark for Basing

    A note re: pest-killing Baking is more likely to kill anything living in there than freezing. Many bark-living critters, especially in high-country species like many conifers, are able to reduce their metabolisms to survive freezing. Whereas there aren't many complex organisms I know of offhand that will survive extended exposure — say, half an hour or more — to temperatures over 80 degrees C. (Maybe tardigrades, they're just incredible).
  19. Although I seldom actually make use of it for one reason or another, I am quite fond of scatter terrain for use with miniatures in tabletop FRP games. Part of the reason is that it can be a bit expensive, and it seems a frivolous use of my gaming dollar to spend it on what is effectively doll's-house furniture. However, now that I have a 3d printer and access to Thingiverse, I can make my own bits and bobs quite easily. This is one such bit or bob, a spiral stair marker. If it was in an actual castle, it would most likely turn in the opposite direction, with the intent of impeding a climbing intruder's weapon hand, while allowing the defenders more freedom of attack. However, if you assume the standard and traditional D&D "dungeon" format, then the attackers might be more likely to be going downwards, so this orientation would be more correct. Anyway. I've included a Reaper 28mm figure for scale. It was printed on my Ender 3 FDM printer in PLA at 0.12mm layer height, and took about 2½ hours.
  20. Fair enough. I often infuriate my more pompous and anal wargaming friends by suggesting that we "have a game of war-dollies" :) It's on Thingiverse. This is the one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793224
  21. MojoBob

    FitzBones: 77183 Frost Wyrm

    ...or, as pretty much everybody else in the RPG world knows it, a Remorhaz. From memory, I think remorhaz are supposed to be more of a light ice-blue, but I got a bit carried away, so this one has more of a tropical look about it than an arctic one. Never mind. This was a real quickie paint job, taking about an hour and a half from start to finish. There's a lot more detail I could concentrate on, and maybe I'll revisit it one day, but for now it's good enough for gaming, and that's good enough for me.
  22. MojoBob

    Rogue Raccoon

    That's coming along nicely. I like the naturalistic creases and folds in the fabric; it always works out so much better from a life model than from the imagination.
  23. MojoBob

    Fitz's Demon Idol OSL

    Here's my low-rez FDM 3d printed PHB Demon Idol, all painted up. It turned out all right, if I do say so myself. I haven't really tried OSL (object source lighting) painting before, so I wasn't quite sure how to approach it, but I think I managed a decent result for a first try. I ironed most of the larger surfaces with a soldering iron before I started painting, to minimise as far as possible the layering from the 3d printing process. It worked OK for a model like this, but it would be a bit coarse a process for a more delicate model. Unfortunately, PLA doesn't respond to acetone vapour the way that ABS does, so there's no really decent smoothing shortcut. Some people paint the surfaces with epoxy or self-levelling polyurethane.
  24. I shouldn't think you'd have too much trouble with epoxy, but just make sure that's what it is, as not all clear resins are the same. Polyesters heat up much more than epoxies when they cure in a mass, sometimes enough to cook and discolour themselves, which is one reason why large masses of polyester are poured in layers. Also, laminating resins often cure very much hotter than casting resins, but they often look and smell exactly the same.
  25. I like to start with an off-white base colour, and then add successive glazes with a coarse bristle brush, starting with a yellow ochre, heavier at the base of the horn, and finishing with something like burnt umber towards the tip. The coarse brush gives you an irregular fibrous look to the horns that I prefer to a perfectly smooth gradation. It's also a good way of producing wood grain.
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