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Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by MojoBob

  1. It's pretty light once it's dried thoroughly. Its edges are vulnerable though, so I always use a base plate of some sort. It occurs to me (though I haven't tried it yet) that you could reinforce the edges by covering them with toilet paper or similar soft tissue soaked in PVA.
  2. MojoBob

    Digital Sculpting in Blender

    I'm in the process of teaching myself a little bit about digital sculpting in Blender. This is the latest fruit of my digital loins. This poor guy got chained up and stuck in a hole for no other reason than that I failed to plan ahead to making a body and limbs for him. I probably could cobble something together by stretching and moulding from its base, but it wouldn't be ideal. I've put the model on my page at Thingiverse, both as it's seen here, and just as the bust; it comes to about 4 megabytes for both versions. I strongly suspect that the chained up version would be quite tricky to print successfully; those chain links are bound to be problematic.
  3. I use Sculptamold pretty much exclusively these days for the basic groundwork. It's so much easier than any of the other methods I've tried. It definitely needs to be laid down on some sort of base though, as the edges can be prone to damage if unsupported. I usually use 3mm MDF. The rock faces are cheap epoxy putty, pressed into Woodland Scenics rubber moulds. The foot bridge is one that I made on my 3d printer. The steps were just pressed and shaped into the Sculptamold after it had set for ten or fifteen minutes.
  4. MojoBob

    Flame Skull (3d print)

    I printed Miguel Zavala's Flame Skull, and put it on a clear acrylic flight stand. It's shown here with the ever-reliable Sergeant Measureby and his +3 Spear of 5mm Increments. I struggle a bit with painting flames and hotness, like hot metal or lava, but I'm relatively happy with how this turned out. I got a bit of stringing amongst the flame spikes, but I can't say that was unexpected. Printed at 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle in eSun PLA+
  5. MojoBob

    Nothic (Bones ghast conversion)

    Excellent job — it really is a good representation of the original artwork as I remember it. The ghast was a good choice for the base figure.
  6. MojoBob

    Nuln vs Agrax

    I quite often use a 50/50 mix of the two. Pure Nuln Oil is too stark and cartoonish, pure Agrax Earthshade is too brown and warm. The combination of the two gives me the darkness I want, with a touch of colour. Alternately, I'll do an overall wash with Agrax and then come back in with Nuln in selected areas to pump up specific shadow regions.
  7. MojoBob

    Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

    It looks great. Very reminiscent of some of the Chinese "Seated Buddha" statuettes I've seen.
  8. MojoBob

    Owl Coin

    One option might be to get the disc, complete with outline and lettering, produced by a stamp manufacturer. Then you can transfer your owl sculpting to that to make a composite master.
  9. MojoBob

    Mr. Blobby

    I found this model somewhere on the internet, alone and uncredited, so I have no idea who made it or what it is or anything. People have suggested that it's a Kirby, whatever that is, with a human face pasted on. I like it, and I'll print about a dozen of them, and make up some stats to use them in my D&D campaign in some way. I'm leaning towards some kind of waddling tar-baby critter, but we shall see. The original model was only about 1.5mm tall, so I've rescaled it by 1500% to roughly 20mm.
  10. MojoBob

    Mr. Blobby

    I think if you search Thingiverse for "Handsome Kirby" you should find it.
  11. MojoBob

    Demon No.3

    This is the third of three big-mouth demons from a set by Duncan Louca. I tried a much more chaotic colour scheme on this one than I did on the first two, and I can't really say that it's a great success. However, inertia will no doubt keep it this way forever now.
  12. MojoBob

    The newbie and the Giant

    Beautiful, I really like it.
  13. MojoBob

    Sculpting free-standing feathers

    You could try some of the self-adhesive copper tape used for leadlighting, stuck on both sides of a coarse nylon bristle. The nylon will provide enough support to keep the feather upright, but enough flexibility that an accidental impact won't be catastrophic. The copper is soft enough that it can be cut to shape with sharp nail scissors, and it can be easily impressed with a feathery texture with a needle.
  14. MojoBob

    Big Mouth, Big Tongue

    This is a model by Duncan Louca, one of a set of three demons. The other two of the set are on the printer as I write this. I've printed it at 0.08mm in PLA on my Ender-3, scaled at 150% which brings it up to about 50mm tall. I added a base of my own, as the models are provided baseless.
  15. MojoBob

    Airbrushing: The Compendium

    I've designed several stands for some of my own airbrushes, and uploaded the STL files to Thingiverse for 3d printing. They all print with minimal supports; I've been enabling Cura's "Make overhangs printable" option, and then they need no supports at all. I wanted something that would hold the brushes securely without being a pain to get them in and out of, and the test prints I've so far done have worked very well. I've pierced the bases with countersunk holes for screwing them down to a desk or shelf or just a bit of wood, to give them considerably more stability — they're fine just on their own with an unmounted brush, but I worry about snagging the hose on a mounted brush and pulling the whole shebang on to the floor. So far I have designs for the following: Badger 105 Patriot at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135372 Badger 200 Single-action at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135516. Badger Krome at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3137556 Paasche Talon at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3141265 Here's the stand for the Patriot 105: The others (and any others I make in the future) are pictured on my blog at http://mojobob.blogspot.com/2018/10/airbrush-stands.html
  16. MojoBob

    FitzBones: Friar Tuckish

    Here we have yet another of Reaper's plastic Bones miniatures, from one or other of the Kickstarters. I don't know the SKU. I've mounted it on a steel washer, and extended the base texture with Green Stuff. He's a stout fellow, in every sense of the word, but I get the feeling he might be a bit of a bastard if you cross him. This guy is painted as a more or less mediaeval European mendicant friar, though the weapon is one the Japanese call tetsubo, an iron-bound club-staff. It was notoriously used by some of the militant Japanese Buddhist monkish sects for killing people without (theoretically, though probably not actually) spilling their blood. There was one sect who carried their sacred bits and pieces in a casket into battle, and threw it into the enemy lines to inspire the monks to a fanatical frenzy to get it back. They were, let's face it, completely barmy.
  17. MojoBob

    Big Mouth, Big Tongue

    No, they're just as they came off the printer.
  18. All the walls of this piece have been printed at 0.2mm layer height on my Ender-3 FDM printer. The rubble and stuff inside is just crushed and stained kitty-litter and cut/broken matchsticks. The 15mm Soviet Maxim team are from PSC, the KV-2 is from Zvezda. I'm also making a whole lot of floating corner pieces that can be arranged into building-like formations. These, combined with whole-plan building ruins, give me quite a lot of freedom to lay out a bombed or shelled urban area. I print them in multiples, as many as I can fit on my printer's platen. It doesn't really decrease the print time much at all, but it does save a bit of faffing about re-starting print jobs. The down-side to ganging-up models like this for a single print run is that if, for any reason, the print fails, then I've lost more models and wasted more filament. However, filament is cheap, so it's not much of a risk.
  19. MojoBob

    Paint bottle issues

    This is something that probably won't be an issue, but it might..... If you use a pointed object like a pin to clear a plastic nozzle, it can pass through the obstruction (e.g. dry paint) which then acts as an expanding collar as it passes up the taper of the pin, stretching the diameter of the nozzle, and potentially even splitting it. A probe the same diameter as the nozzle with a flat perpendicular-cut end, however, will push the obstruction down the length of the nozzle without distorting it in any way. I don't actually know what the inner diameter of the nozzle on a Reaper dropper bottle is; I've never measured it. But the moral of this story is this: paper clip, yes; pin, no.
  20. MojoBob

    3D Printer Question

    It's not water soluble exactly, but it, like most filaments, does absorb moisture from the atmosphere, which compromises the quality of its printing. They need to be stored in absolutely dry conditions. PLA is the easiest and most forgiving filament to print, and the one I would recommend as a beginner (which I still am — I've only had my printer for a few months). How much it varies from vendor to vendor I don't really know; I've had just as good results with non-name filament as with branded stuff, but as I say, my experience is limited.
  21. MojoBob

    Hill Giant (3d Print)

    This is a hill giant sculpt by Duncan "Shadow" Louca, which I printed on my Ender 3 FDM machine. It's been re-scaled to 66% of the original model's size, and printed at 0.08mm in PLA+. I can't show the whole picture here, as the giant isn't wearing pants. The unexpurgated pictures (not too unseemly) are on my blog at http://mojobob.blogspot.com/2018/09/bare-nekkid-hill-giant.html
  22. MojoBob

    Fleshwalker (3d print)

    Here's another 3d print from a model by Duncan Louca. This one's called the Fleshwalker, and it's huge — I've printed this model at 50% of the base size. I printed it at 0.08mm in some grey no-name PLA, and mounted it on a 50mm fender washer. 3d printing is coming along in leaps and bounds. The machine I printed this on only costs about two hundred bucks, and when well-tuned is capable of pretty good results. This is about medium-fine in terms of the quality I can produce as a real neophyte; I can get down to a layer height of 0.04mm (half what this is printed in), though a miniature this size would probably take about sixteen or eighteen hours to complete at that level, and the layer lines would still be visible to close inspection. For me, being able to print a figure like this is a novelty, but it's not going to replace my Bonesium figures any time soon; they're cheap enough that I'd rather just buy a couple of dozen plastic orc mooks than have to spend a week printing them, and get a lower surface quality. It's possible to get machines that will produce the smoothness and detail of traditional sculpting and casting methods, but they're still considerably more expensive than I can afford. Give it another five years though....
  23. MojoBob

    Milk Maid Townsfolk

    Lovely work. The colours and execution remind me of C18th porcelain figurines — I guess the subject matter helps too.
  24. MojoBob

    Cthulhoid Cube

    This is a three-dimensional doodle I did in Blender in the process of teaching myself how to use its Sculpt mode to create organic forms. I had no plan at all when I started out with a simple cube, and it just ended up getting creepy so I went with it. The figure is one of the Bones Townsfolk, the bartender, who I've made a bit more sinister with his bloody hands and apron. I printed the cube on my Ender 3 FDM machine at 0.2mm in PLA. Hopefully it will inspire a certain degree of disquiet among my players.
  25. I've made a start on a new piece of scenery, a foot bridge crossing a narrow stretch of river. The tile is sized to fit with my other river pieces, but I'd like it to be an attractive little standalone model in its own right. We shall see. The bridge is one that I 3d-printed from a model I found on Thingiverse; I thought it was bigger when I started printing it, but it will do OK as a foot bridge — its total length is about 70mm. The base is 3mm MDF, sealed with black spray primer. The rock formations are DAS air-drying clay, press-moulded into Woodland Scenics rubber rock moulds, and the rest of the groundwork is SculptaMold plaster/paper goop. The steps and flagstones are just pressed and scribed into that once it had firmed up but not actually set hard.