Doug Sundseth

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Everything posted by Doug Sundseth

  1. RPGs: GM: Pathfinder Skull & Shackles - Early in book 2 with a large group (7) that is ... not very nautical. But they seem to be having fun. Player: 3.5 Age of Worms - Almost 15th level, playing a Raptoran Fighter/Ranger/Horizon Walker archer in a 6-player group). Mostly in this one because of the other people. The premise and tone of the game aren't very interesting for me. GM seems to think we're close to the end. If we finish (other than by TPK) before the end of 2018, I'll be surprised. Player: Pathfinder Mummy's Mask - Beginning of book 5, playing a Fighter (Lorewarden) archer (started this character before Age of Worms and sort of got stuck into another archer there). This one has been fun, both because I like the player mix better and because the tone and premise are more interesting. Player: Pathfinder Rise of the Runelords (Rev. ed.) - 2nd level Arcanist from a merchant family. 3rd child trying really hard to make a name for himself. Still working this group into a team. Player: Pathfinder Skull & Shackles - Wizard (Thaumatuge, but actually better at Necromantic spells). Just finished this campaign a couple of months ago. My wizard and another player's Sorcerer worked particularly well together in this one. A 15th level wizard, double-specialized in Necromancy, with a 30 INT is a scary thing. Video Games: Minecraft - I've been running the same world for several years now and have quite a bit of infrastructure built up. Its principal virtue is that it's easy to pick up and play. Misc. 4X games - My primary computer gaming style. Includes Civ, Total War (various), Stellaris, MOO, Sword and the Stars, .... I've been playing these for a long time (my best score in CIV I was a 7500% - victory by world conquest in about 1000 BC at highest difficulty. Skyrim - Stealth archer. Haven't played this for a while, but every once in a while I pick it up again. Misc. other CRPGs Board Games: Many. I own hundreds of games and play a variety, depending on mood. I started playing wargames when I was in Jr. High and have played nearly all sorts since. Miniatures Games: Frostgrave - Primary wizard is a 24th-ish level Sigilist, but I have several other wizards built and played. DBM - Used to be very serious about this. I have three armies (Later Swiss, Sumerian, and Northern and Southern Dynasties Chinese), and played tournaments with some success for quite a few years. I'd like to try several of the other Osprey rules sets, but haven't gotten others into them yet. I wrote a Hollywood Old West game called Into the Sunset that we played several hundred games of. I keep meaning to polish the rules and publish them on the web, but other projects always seem more interesting.
  2. My experience with MSP metallics, particularly the white metal ones, is that they work fairly well when used thinly in multiple layers, but that they have very poor single-coat coverage. I now use either Scale75 or P3 metallics for most things, saving the MSP metallics for highlighting and shading, where the translucency is an advantage. I haven't had a particular problem using the Reaper metallics on a wet palette, though they have less working time than most other paints. They seem to be fine for several hours on the palette, which is sufficient for most of what I want to do. (Note that I live at about 1600m MSL in a semi-arid area, so not the easiest place to keep paint live, but not quite the same as La Paz or El Alto.
  3. Sorry things got complicated, but those are the important things. I'm glad things are going better now.
  4. Craft paints tend to break down more rapidly with thinning than higher quality, more expensive paints, so the addition of some sort of medium would probably help. For terrain, if you're OK with the glossy effect, there shouldn't be any problem using Pledge. If you don't want gloss, you would need to use a matte medium or apply a shine killing coat after painting.
  5. Got to see that one on Saturday. It's pretty amazing.
  6. I'm guessing that it happened to fast. Some of the larger dragons have the turning radius of a 747. Though the Wingover feat (in 3.5 and Pathfinder, at least) allows one free 180° turn per round.
  7. A couple more tips: Clear coat the figure before starting your freehand. Then if you mess up, it's pretty easy to take off the mistake without harming the paint you're happy with. Paint the design in a dark color first, then do your final color over that. The dark color will act as a darkline to enhance the appearance of the freehand, and you can mess around with the shape then paint the final only when you're happy with it.
  8. I only saw the Matrix movie* once, and that was years ago. So ... heckifiknow? * I'm pretty sure there was only the one. Like the Highlander movie.
  9. Grindylow (in Pathfinder). Have to be pretty darn high level to get a Kraken as a familiar. Might be better to go Druid and use it as an animal companion. I kind of like the idea of a high-level goblin sorc with a Charisma of 12. In order to cast his higher-level spells, he has to magically raise his Charisma. Most of the time he just casts first and second level spells, but when things get real, he bounces his charisma and starts casting fifth and sixth level nasty stuff.
  10. It's sort of comp time. We get one Friday afternoon off per month to make up (-ish) for the extra hours through the month. It was always going to be either today or next Friday, since if I don't take it this month it's gone. But it sounded better the other way.
  11. Can't speak for @Pochi, but I took her to mean that you should bring the highlights up in tone (typically that would be adding more, lighter blues to the highlit parts of the robe). Assuming that to be correct, I agree. Painter's mantra: "Higher highlights, deeper shadows. Higher highlights, deeper shadows. Higher highlights, deeper shadows." Just keep chanting that as you paint.
  12. I left my lunch at home. This is an omen that I should take a half day off today. So shall it be!
  13. That's ... kind of horrifying. But now I want to do a mechanical Kraken with segmented bronze tentacles. With drills on the ends. "Nemo, I'm coming to get you and your poxy submarine!"
  14. That would be "tone" using a Hue, Saturation, Tone color model. Hue: Basic color from which the final color arises. Red, green, orange, violet, chartreuse, whatever. Saturation: How vibrant that color is. Tone: How dark or light the color is. (Photoshop calls this "Lightness" in their HSL color model.) In that first photo, the Lichen is a midtone of a low saturation green. The purple is a midtone of a medium-high saturation purplish magenta. BTW, I'm looking forward to this, not least because I came this close (imagine fingers really close together) to painting this figure for ReaperCon. Which is to say that I quite like the sculpt as well.
  15. @Ducknuck84: Most of the complaints I've heard haven't been about just any old Winsor & Newton brush. Miniatures painters who are buying W&N are usually buying their Series 7 brushes, which are premium Kolinsky sable brushes. But there was a period where W&N let their quality standards slip, and the result seems to have been a batch of sub-standard brushes. I haven't been hearing those complaints about recent production, though, so I think they might have fixed their problems. Still, depending on where you buy from, you might still get unlucky. And of course every brand has its outliers.
  16. When I was GMing Kingmaker, the party had occasion to cross a river to an island. Now they could have used some combination of dimension door and flight, but those take resources and they had a boat. One of their paladins also had a paladin's horse. But it was a magic boat. Now the paladin can summon his horse once a day, so they could have taken the boat across to the island and then summoned the horse*, but what if they needed to summon the horse again? They would have to wait until the next day! It would have been terrible! So they decided to take the boat. Including the 2000# warhorse. Their theory was "Magic Boat, what could go wrong?" As GM, I let them know that small magic boats aren't really designed for 2000# warhorses that can't sit down, but they were adamant. So they all get on the boat. As the horse boards, I ask the player for an Acrobatics-Balance check for the horse. It wasn't especially difficult (DC15 perhaps?), but it turns out that even paladins' mounts aren't especially good at tightrope walking. Still, the horse passes the test and they push off from the bank. Now sailing a boat with a huge animal in it seemed like it might be more difficult than the usual pond trip, so I asked for a Profession: Sailor from whoever was conning the boat. None of them had that, so default value it was. This time they weren't quite so lucky. The boat started rocking. I asked for another Acrobatics-Balance check from the horse, which wasn't so lucky this time, so over the side it went. Now when you lose a 2000# unbalanced weight from a longboat suddenly, there's going to be some instability, so I asked for another Profession: Sailor check, easier this time, since there wasn't a horse on board. Nat 1. After a series of Reflex saves and/or balance checks from the PCs, one of the two rogues was standing on the upturned bottom of the capsized boat and the rest of the group was in the water. With only minor problems they all made it back to the bank - and dimension door-ed to the island. * The adventure was in a cave on the island, but the paladin really wanted his horse. For ... reasons. Don't ask me; I was just the GM.
  17. Seems to me that if two tails are good, then eight (or ten!) tails would be even better. So: Octopus or squid with scorpion tails instead of tentacles?
  18. Probably my favorite pirate movie. "One black, one white, and two khaki."
  19. The long national nightmare is over. I have finally completed the purchase of a new (used) car. Not too painful, really, just tedious. And expensive. But it didn't take as long as Bones IV.
  20. Did the drone have a Hellfire missile attached? Because if it did, you might want to watch out for that pilot.
  21. The "cloudier" the effect you're modeling, the less depth you need. For a very silty Alaskan river, for instance, you probably wouldn't need much more than surface gloss. For crystal clear Hawaiian sea water, you would probably want to go with clear casting resin and model all the bits under the "water". Note that you can layer unlike materials, so if you want you can use casting resin for the mass of the water and gloss heavy body gel medium for the waves on top. For that matter, you can model just the surface of the water with acrylic sheet (with the possible addition of waves as above), then put the "underwater" details in air under the sheet, with clear acrylic sheet sides to the diorama. But if you're not looking to do lots of detailed underwater stuff, paint a depth effect on the bottom, then layer in thin gloss medium (or whatever) and make sure all you can see is the tone and hue, not any details on the bottom. Some of Stefan Pokorny's Dwarven Forge videos show him doing underground pools that sell the effect very well with hardly any depth at all.
  22. I recommend starting with larger brushes, but I live in an arid area. If the air is very dry, there is very little that you can do with a small brush. You have to have a reservoir of fluid to get anything to flow off the tip of the brush, even for the smallest spots. Controlling paint flow is certainly an issue for new painters (at least), but it's a learnable skill where "I need to stop the paint from drying on the brush between palette and figure" really isn't. That said, I use a #1 (#2 in da Vinci Series 10), not a #4 or whatever because there is a point at which bigger becomes counter-productive. There's certainly some argument about where that point might be, and I think that relative humidity plays into that argument. But I think there's also a point below which there are only disadvantages. And again, that might be different in Minnesota and Colorado. Still I think that, to some point, bigger is easier to use for most people once they have basic brush and flow control down. TLDR; yes, but, and also no.
  23. I'll note that while there's no substitute for handling to get a feel for brush spring (which varies by brand), the Blick website has hair length and belly diameter for their sable brushes. My current brush is a Raphael Series 8404 #1, which I quite like, but between individual preferences and piece to piece brush variation, that probably doesn't mean much for you.
  24. If it were me, I'd try to keep the Star Trek guys as close to the way they are in the show as possible. The game would be about the interface between their world and the D&D world. (Which is sort of the canonical Star Trek show anyway.) How will the advanced technology and "enlightened" attitudes work when confronted with monsters and magic? As to mechanical effects, I'd start by matching their capabilities to D&D characters of the level you're planning the game to match, and try to differentiate by flavor. For example, I'd treat phasers as doing total damage in a round similar to that of a buffed archer of the appropriate level, though probably with fewer shots (one shot for 3d6 + 12 at full hit prob rather than three shots for 1d6 + 5 each with a varying hit prob, for example). Tricorders would have a skill roll to use and wouldn't be blocked by much, but wouldn't pick up magic at all. Highly trained crewmembers would have lots of skill points, but few special abilities. My take, anyway.
  25. Sorry, I don't know the varieties. My dad was buying them in Greece when he was on TDY from Germany and bringing them home to eat. I suspect you would probably hate them with sugar, since you don't like that combination. But I found the slight sourness of the tomato to go well with the sugar. Of course I find most things to go well with sugar, so that's not much of a surprise.