Doug's Workshop

Members
  • Content count

    781
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1960 Adventurer

2 Followers

About Doug's Workshop

  • Rank
    Master
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Indianapolis, Indiana

Recent Profile Visitors

446 profile views
  1. Roman Polanski's Pirates is a freaking great movie. Robert Shaw starred in Swashbucker, which also ranks high on my list. (Also starring James Earl Jones and Peter Boyle.) And the other Pirates actually had an R-rated version that was once available at Blockbuster (if you remember that chain). Since Blockbuster famously didn't rent adult films, I did a double-take when I saw it sitting on a shelf. But no, they took the worst (best?) parts out and produced a not-horrific movie. And the movie has some actual funny parts, and the acting isn't as bad as you might think. I mean, from what I hear . . . friends of friends, you understand.
  2. I've had very good experience with Reaper's Brush-on Sealer, but you have to shake the devil out of it. The "anti-matte additive" wants to settle to the bottom of the bottle. Adding a small amount of water helps, too. At about a 1:4 ratio or so. As for Vallejo Matte Sealer, yes, I've had the same issue. As for inks, yes, pretty much every ink I"ve used will turn glossy. Ink isn't paint, and is meant to "stain" the surface, not sit on top like it will for miniatures. Ink is useful for printing, because it seeps into the paper. Ink is less-useful for miniatures, because plastic/resin/metal do not absorb it. Inks need some sort of additive to become non-glossy, because otherwise the tiny particles dry to become a very smooth surface. Smooth surfaces are glossy.
  3. I was thinking of a Ying/Yang thing: Black and White. Luckily we've got some time to think about it!
  4. Funded

    As much as I really want to stay around the computer and wait for the new reveals, I have to be Responsible Guy today. Besides, the family is off visiting other family and I've got the day to myself! I've got a little bit of mowing to do, gotta go marinate some pork for dinner, take a trip to a game store, and paint a bunch of minis. Which means I'll make it to the game store, cut about half the lawn, and eagerly keep an eye on the Updates to see the newest cool Bonesium thing. And that doesn't even matter because I've currently backed as much as I will until later in the month! Okay, the dishes ain't gonna wash themselves . . . .
  5. Um . . . what? By that reasoning, we shouldn't change the resolution of our computer screens because the larger fonts will cause us to have worse eyesight. Large print books would also be causing poorer vision. Large-screen televisions must be a conspiracy between Samsung and Lenscrafters . . . . Don't tell my dentist; she uses magnifiers during lots of her work. I guarantee she uses magnifiers far more often than I use mine. No, feel free to use the magnifiers as much or as little as you need. I find myself needing them far more often, but that's because the muscles that shape the lens are getting as aged as the rest of me, so I don't see things up close as well as I used to. Now I wear bifocals. That's age and poor genetics, not because I've used magnifiers in the past.
  6. Never having used it, I can only offer the following: Fast mixing can introduce air into the mix. This isn't a problem for air brush paint, since it all gets dispersed via air, but it may give the impression that the paint is less dense than normal. You may have micro-bubbles in your paint that change how it is applied, although I can't imagine it would change the paint a lot. Fast speed alone won't cause the paint to become less viscous, as the binders and such in the paint are already ground up, and you aren't going to add liquid unless you actually add liquid. I just use the other end of my paintbrush to stir up the sediment, if necessary, and then give it a good shake or seven. Good luck.
  7. Gardening (vegetable, not flowers, although I do like having flowers to attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees). Fishing I used to dance quite a bit. I competed, and taught a bit. It's fallen by the wayside as I have children now, and time gets limited quickly.
  8. An important thing to remember is that, as a niche hobby, we are proponents of it in a way that distributors and store owners may not be. At one point I knew pretty much all the fantasy miniature companies and what they produced. It seemed that, given I could learn that information without too much work, store owners could learn that just as easily. And I would expect them to, given that's how they make their living while it's just a hobby for me. Alas, that was not the case. Store owners may have an idea about parts of the hobby, but they may not. They may be really knowledgeable about board games, but not have a clue about RPGs or miniatures. I was talking with one store regarding great work put out by Frog God Games, and the employee had no idea who they were. Of course, the Swords and Wizardry system doesn't have the branding of WoTC or Paizo, and the books are more expensive, so they're not available through distributors (that I know of). Similarly, I know a few stores who are amazed that I bring in Freebooter miniatures for their painting competitions, or Tre Manor's stuff from Red Box Games, or something from Gamezone. It's not in their wheelhouse, and may not be available through their distributor, and so it may as well not exist. It's weird, but it is what it is.
  9. Liners can be used as a primer for Bones miniatures. They also seem to be more fluid (as in it's easier to get paint off your brush, allowing you thinner lines), so can be used to "line" between two surfaces, making a thin dark line to separate two different surfaces. For example, the seam between a model's boots and pants, where the pants are tucked in. Or the edges of a belt, etc. They can be used as normal paints as well.
  10. This year, I'm going to try and make my own ketchup. I already have a decent recipe for tomato juice (including a dash of worchestershire sauce). Although last years tomatoes that were just juiced were used for an amazing tomato soup this past spring.
  11. 91% coverage here south of Indianapolis. Meh. It was the same as I remember when I was in 2nd grade. Turns out the sun puts out a LOT of light, so even 91% coverage was more like "overcast sky/gonna rain." I'm looking forward to 2024, since my house will be in the direct path of totality. That will be cool. I've got friends already planning on putting their houses on AirBnB for that day.
  12. What brand paint are you using? I once grabbed a couple bottles of concentrated watercolor, and every time I added something on top, the watercolor came alive again. I had to seal, then add paint for the final highlights. Got some great blending, though.
  13. If your primer is glossy (as I infer from you saying it's like trying to paint on teflon), then it is possible you've used too much primer. I had this problem with Tamiya primer before. Light bursts of primer, dusting the mini, not coating it like you're trying to spray-paint it. If you are using floor polish, I would place the blame there. Floor polish is not meant to be used for painting, and it will likely react in a negative manner with your paints (such as not allowing the paint to dry and "cure" properly). Yes, I know there are people who use it. I've used it. But it's not meant for painting, it's meant for the use on floors. You don't use a screwdriver to hammer a nail; don't use floor polish as paint.
  14. I've done "cracked" marble that looks pretty good, and you won't get there with layers of varnish. The layers we work with are just too thin to create the effect you want. What I do is to get some thinned paint and very very very lightly make the "crack." Do this a couple times, creating the deepest cracks. Then, a couple more with slightly darker paint. Keep all the lines roughly parallel, grouping the faintest in one direction (let's say 45 degrees), then the next 'level' at 55 degrees . . . creating the illusion that there are different levels that crack in slightly different ways. The effect is that things deeper will not be as visible (you can do the same thing when painting a landscape by keeping the colors lighter - it gives things in the distance a fuzzy feeling of distance). It's also important not to draw straight lines when doing the cracks - nature doesn't like straight lines, so have a lot of coffee and draw your line. Lightly. Like, barely touching the surface light. Use a brush with a very good point.
  15. Speedpaint - Not more than 2 hours. Usually 1 hour. I don't usually have these except as reminders of the speedpaint competitions I've entered. Tabletop - "Git 'er done" up to "I'm going to use this guy as a leader so I'll put more time into him" (aka Tabletop-Plus). This guy's going to die quickly, so do I want to put a lot of time into detailing him? Strangely, this is the stage I have the most trouble with, because for most of my painting life I've tried to get all the details down and spend a lot of time getting things "right." Turns out, if a mold line shows up, it doesn't matter. I will experiment with a new technique here. So I have some tabletop models with OSL and NMM. Show-quality - Details, let it sit, notice more details that need attention. Let it sit, notice more details. Washes, glazes, delicately placed highlights. Push my ability. Dioramas fall here, because I won't play games with them. Larger scale (54mm/75mm) will fall here, because I can go to town with blending. Anything I'm never going to game with. New techniques will be applied after having been tested down on a tabletop model.