GlenP

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About GlenP

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    Enlightened
  • Birthday 10/06/54

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    Male
  • Interests
    Little British sports cars, painting historical - and more recently, gaming - miniatures, Middle East and military history.

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  1. Well done, m'lady. Draconia does some nice fantasy busts. Young Miniatures for historical busts. FeR Miniatures does both. A lot of both... There are others. Again, well done!
  2. Thanks! Anyone doing a plane? I know there's some Warhammer planes out there...
  3. What Heisler said... My old Binks is from the stone-age, but it still works. It runs continuously once a I plug it in (it doesn't have an on/off switch). When it dies, I'll look at a tankless semi-auto compressor. I'm curious; doesn't the owner's manual address this feature?
  4. Thanks! Looking forward to seeing your stuff ...and everyone one else's as well. There will no doubt be a flood of tanks, aircraft, starships, and Imperial Walkers on the Ordnance tables this year. Panzer Vor!
  5. I think that looks pretty good for lava; maybe some yellows and near whites in the hot spots. Then I read your text. Oops... Ok, so the unpainted dude is conjuring something out of the rocks. Does the red imply a degree of eviltude? Perhaps some yellow/whites where the conjuring is focused to draw the eye to that area? I'll be quiet now.
  6. Passche guy myself, so I'm not sure about your Badger, but there may be a leaking gasket (rubber washer) in the air line to brush connection or a similar gasket up in the brush body that seals around the needle. Your manual should have an exploded view of the brush where you can check for the gaskets. If not, try checking on line. Good luck with it!. Edit: on second thought, is the compressor supposed to operate continuosly like my elderly diaphragm Binks compressor? Most compressor that shut off do so because an air tank has been filled or the unit has reached its duty-cycle and overheated. If it overheats on a regular basis, then something is wrong. Is it getting proper ventilation?
  7. Thanks all! Weathering, even minor weathering, can help pop the model. I generally go for weathering associated with dry(ish) climates - summer, desert, etc. I leave the vehicles covered in wet and/or caked mud to others. That.s not to say you can't go to town... Slainte
  8. Thanks! I'm glad you like it. Hopefully, it'll light a fire in some folks and we'll see more entries in the ordnance category at R'con. Everything I did is more or less applicable to cars, planes, and sci-fi, and fantasy as well. I'm sure some of you out there have a Warhammer Orc tank or two...
  9. FInal pics posted here:
  10. Here are the pics of the completed Tamiya 1/35 Stug III Ausf B self-propelled assault gun. Painted an weathered with a variety of model enamels, oil washes, Reaper Acrylics, colored pencils, and chalk pastels. Questions and comments are welcomed. The orginal SBS is here:
  11. Thanks! Better (I hope) pics this week in 'Show Off'. Now working on a Scale 75 'Bitsie' armored space babe.
  12. I’ve added a radio antenna to the antenna mount. This is just a thin brass rod fixed in place with superglue. It’s important to keep the antenna aligned with angle of the mount and the protective trough hanging of the side of the engine deck. Once cured, the antenna was primed and painted. I’ve also painted the tail lights. Now that the model is pretty much assembled and painted, it’s time for my last step – chalk pastels. I’m using basic earth-tone chalks from craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael’s. I use a small file to grind off some material onto a post-it note stuck on the desktop. I usually have it off to the side so a sneeze or exasperated breath doesn’t blow it away. It’s happened… I apply the chalks using and old paint brush, Q-tip, or one of those fuzzy ball tipped applicators (they can also be used for glue application, special effects painting, etc.). The chalks are applied in areas that, like the dirt/dust washes, are protected from human activity – the little nooks and crannies that are found all over the vehicle. The concentrations are varied. Each wheel gets a treatment as well. I don’t use a clear coat or other fixative, so some care in handling is required. At this point, I usually consider the model done. I set it aside for a few days and then go back over it with a fresh set of eyes looking for missing/damaged parts (remember, fat hammy fingers), stray paint blobs, and glue spots. The pics show what I’ve got so far. The next set of pics will be in the Show Off forum. I’ll crosslink the two threads. I hope you all enjoyed it and, as always, questions and comments are welcomed. See you in the Ordnance category in October.
  13. Attaching the wheels and tracks is next. As I mentioned, the tracks are a flexible polystyrene that can be assembled with regular plastic model cement. When joined, the tracks want to take the form of a tear-drop with the narrow part where the ends are joined together. I glued them together and clamped the joint with self-clamping tweezers and used hobby knives to flatten the tracks so that the joint was a flat run. This relieved the strain for a stronger joint. It’s important to not use too much cement where the narrow mounting tab joins the track proper. Too much cement can melt the thin tab allowing it to separate from the track. Ask me how I know… The next job is attaching the roadwheels, track return rollers, and the rear idler wheels (the drive sprockets are left alone for now). These do not roll and are cemented into position. It’s an easy enough task, but make sure each axle shaft gets a swipe from medium grit sandpaper to remove the gray paint. While the cement can melt the paint some, it will re-harden and make a weak joint. Once cleaned, I simply painted the axle with the glue, attached the wheel, and rotated it about 20 degrees left and right to spread the glue and seat the wheel. Repeat. Once the tracks and wheels are fully cured (I gave it 24 hours – BSTS), the tracks are looped over the idler wheel and the guide teeth are fed into the gaps between the wheel pairs. Next the drive sprocket is placed into position with the teeth engaging the slots at the outer ends of the track links. The drive sprocket shaft is then pulled to the sprocket mount and sprocket pushed into the hole. There is some resistance as the shaft squeezes through the soft plastic. All this can a bit fiddly because you have to hold the hull steady, keep the drive sprocket engaged with the tracks, pull (gently) on the sprocket to align the sprocket shaft with its mounting hole, then push it in – all with two hands. Then you get to do it again on the other side.
  14. What Heisler said... And... By way of my own clarification, I paint plastic models (tanks and aircraft) with hobby enamels; Testor's Model Master, Mr Color, Aeromaster, Folquil Military Colors, and Humbrol. These are used for the fade and shade technique (common) that I use. The paint is allowed to dry for at least 24 hours. I then use an artist's oil black and dark brown in a general and pinpoint wash form to create artificial shadows in panel lines and around raised detail. This is allowed to dry for at least 24 hours, although these colors tend to dry quickly compared to other oils. I add a gloss coat (Testor's GlossCoat) to the areas that will have decals. After the applied decals are dry, I apply a clear flat coat (Testor's DullCoat). The gloss is applied by brush if there's only a few spots that need it, while the flat coat is sprayed through an airbrush. I have never experienced any compatibility problems with these materials as long as they are allowed to dry/cure. Once the flat coat is dry, I use a combination of Reaper MSP colors in a wash/glaze form for dust and dirt layers, colored pencils and Reaper/model enamels for paint chips, scratches, and rust spots. Again, no compatibility issues. This is followed by a final flat coat sprayed through an airbrush. Once that flat coat is dry, I use chalk pastels for a final dusting. The chalks are not fixed or otherwise overcoated (careful handing is required, but I tend to base tanks for competition). Many oil figure painters I know will undercoat a piece with the appropriate acrylic color before before over painting the shadows and highlights with the oils. This is a fairly common practice. I know of no one who does the reverse, and that applies to hot lacquers over enamels and acrylics as well. Additionally, every oil painter I know primes the figure before applying any paint regardless of its chemical makeup. Actually, every acrylic painter I know, including myself, also primes a figure before painting. Lead disease was a known issue up through the late 70s/early 80s. It could occur in unpainted pieces still in their box or on painted figures. It is far less common now due to regulations inhibiting/prohibiting the use of lead in 'toys' and the improved alloys (mainly zinc) used by metal casters.
  15. What Heisler said... I've had very satisfactory results using diluted black and raw umber oil paints as a general and pinpoint wash. These are followed by acrylic hobby paint washes and glazes. Reaper's Muddy Soil and Basic Dirt triads are a good place to start. Other colors can be used to match the terrain you're using as a setting - coral island, North Africa, etc. Because the washes and glazes are transparent and allow underlying colors to show through, they basically functions as pigment filters. I'll lock everything down with an airbrushed flat coat, then add a bit of dirt/dust colored chalk pastels in protected areas (the chalk pastels are not fixed, so some careful handling is required). Apart from the StuG III in the WIP forum, there is also a Russian KV-1E and and a British Cromwell in the Show-Off forum under Ordnance 1 and Ordnance 2 respectively.