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About GHarris

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    Rabble Rouser

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  1. Citadel Shadow Grey replacement?

    When GW switched to the screw top lid paints in the 90's they also switched manufacturers. I believe the paints were made by Colart after the switch. I remember the switch well because GW was out of black paint for weeks....not because they were out of paint but because they ran out of pots to put it in.
  2. Citadel Shadow Grey replacement?

    Depending on how old your paints are you might find the equivalent color in the Coat D'Arms range. They used to make the paints for GW before they switched to the screw top lids in the 90's. I understand they still make the same paints but with new names and labels.
  3. Reapercon 2018 Enthusiasm and Chatter

    I checked the Komodo Loco website...looks promising! Thank you!
  4. Reapercon 2018 Enthusiasm and Chatter

    Are there any recommendations for places to get a good bowl of ramen?
  5. Basilisk

    I am with you on fur being less time consuming than scales, but I would rather do fur or scales instead of mail armor! The other thing I remember being a pain to sculpt was samurai armor...
  6. Miniatures for Collectors & Gamers

    Yes, they use them to directly make masters. Professional miniatures companies tend to use very high end printers that don't leave lines all over the print. I've seen my sculpts printed on high end printers, there isn't any stepping but the prints are much more expensive than what you will get on most home printers or from Shapeways. The nicest prints I have seen have come from Trenchworx. Just beautiful. But you pay for that quality- a 30ish mm print will run you about $130 or so because they are printed on high end medical grade machines that cost tens of thousands of dollars. I've also seen prints from a Form 2, which is about as high end as a home printer will get. Again, no lines, but the printer will run you about $3500, the resin isn't exactly cheap, and there is a small step down in quality from the goodies printed by Trenchworx. In the next few years it wouldn't surprise me a bit to see better quality home printers at a lower price. But right now it is cheaper to just make one good print and use that to make a master mold than it would be to print multiple lower quality prints to use for production molds.
  7. Miniatures for Collectors & Gamers

    This is true, "master" may have been a confusing choice of words. The original 3D print is basically the same as an original physical sculpt, you start with one, throw it into a mold and use that new master mold to cast masters. These are basically a second generation of the sculpt. From there you make a handful of master castings so you can make a production mold, which will make the 3rd generation sculpts that you end up selling. What often happens with physical sculpts is the original model gets damaged in the process of molding them to make a master mold. With digital sculpts this isn't as much of an issue as you can just print another original if the previous one gets damaged or destroyed during molding. My point was it is meaningless to say "...and then we are destroying the masters!!!" if you still have the ability to print something that is actually better than the masters that you are destroying.
  8. Miniatures for Collectors & Gamers

    I mean they COULD destroy the masters (again, why?) but seeing as these are digital sculpts they can always just print another master later. Unless they are delete every copy of the digital files too??? If they do that it truly is pretty boneheaded.
  9. Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

    No hat eating necessary! Well unless you are on a high fiber diet....get it? High fiber? Er right, moving on then! The other thing I'd want to do with a vulcanizer is have the ability to slowly add clamping pressure as the mold is heating up as well as have the ability to "burp" the mold to try to get trapped air out. Basically you add and relieve pressure a few times as the mold is heating up to try to get any bubbles out. I will admit that I don't know if it actually does anything but I learned it from FAR better moldmakers than myself and I had good results. Why mess with what seemed to be working? A melting furnace may be a bit more DIY friendly, basically it is just a big pot that gets, well, hot. As long as you can control the temperature, be safe, and have it mounted at an ergonomic height (save the strain on your back!) you really don't have to get all that fancy.
  10. Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

    I bought a used Contenti spin caster back in 2001 for $1500 from a resale place in Rhode Island. For some reason that was the used casting machine resale at the time, I wish I remembered the name of the place. A used melting pot cost about $800, I want to say the vulcanizer was about $1200, I forget what the cost of the mold frames was. We did have to pay freight fees to get it all delivered, and the wiring in the shop had to be redone for the new machines. I would add that you'd want some sort of downdraft table to keep your molds cool and talc from going everywhere, and make sure you have a venting hood if you are working in your house. Ah yes, don't forget about an air compressor...and you may need a gas line put in for the melting pot...and you need to buy molds....plus buy metal... That was also 17 years ago. I assume, if you can find the machines used, you may be able to shave a few thousand dollars off of your costs but overall Talespinner is making a lot of sense. Use C-Clamps, a frame, and an oven? Um, no. If you are seriously making molds you buy a vulcanizer. I used to do this sort of thing for a living, I wouldn't even consider anything other a vulcanizer. Sure, you can rig up a spin casting system from scrap, but again if you are serious you want to precisely control clamping pressure on your molds and how fast the molds spin, and you want your machine to hold up to heavy use. You can put in the time, money and skill needed to rig up a machine to do all of those things as well as a commercial machine...but it is just easier to just get the commercial machine. Unless you are just really into rigging up machines, if so then more power to you!
  11. Lets Talk About NMM

    You are absolutely correct with about everything except for reflective surfaces, like metals. Once you establish light sources the shading and highlight on anything non-reflective stays the same regardless of your viewing angle. If you walk in a circle around a dining room chair the shadows and highlights stay still! Now try the same thing with a piece of metal. Walk in a circle around the shiny piece of metal. Note that the shadowing stays the same and the general highlights stay the same...but the reflected highlights and the metallic sheen moves according to your viewing angle. NMM will not do that. As you change the viewing angle of, say, a model's sword painted with NMM you will see it turn from "cool metal effect!" to "huh, he has a grey sword" to "hey, it looks like metal again!" to "nope, it's just grey". That is why NMM is always highlighted "wrong" in a live viewing, and that is why it is better as a 2D technique. I think NMM just got popular because it is hard to do. It is true that it does take some skilled blending to pull off, which really is true of most advanced painting levels in general, but I also think that a large part of the "mystery" of how to make NMM "look right" is coming to terms that it technically will never "look right". Even on the most gorgeously painted NMM models you have ever seen you can just turn the viewing angle just that little bit and the NMM illusion is gone. I also suspect part of the bias towards NMM is because people mostly only see the best examples in picture form, aka in 2D format where the technique really shines! (pardon the pun) If you are in a painting competition you can't just give NMM a free pass because it is "difficult", you have to take into account that the metal is not interacting correctly on NMM areas when they are viewed at the "wrong" angle. If your beautifully painted NMM sword turns grey when viewed from the "wrong" angle it should count against you in a live painting contest.
  12. Lets Talk About NMM

    I think if anyone is fairing worse in a live painting competition because they didn't use NMM it means you need new painting judges! But sadly many people got caught up in that trend of NMM = better. If we have learned anything in the past few years it is that really painting true metals well also requires a high level of skill, its just that many people are used to thinking that metals are "easy" because you just "basecoat, wash and drybrush". Um....no! Seriously painting metals is very tricky! Even if you paint NMM perfectly, and it looks gorgeous in a picture, you still technically painted metals wrong for a live competition because reflective highlights on metal don't look like that when you see the model from different views. Mind you, I am not saying NMM is necessarily bad. I am saying that that in a competition you should be thinking about whether your piece is going to be viewed as a 2D object in a picture or a 3D object viewed in the round. I don't want anyone to think I am bashing on the skill that it takes to paint NMM.
  13. Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

    I can totally respect that answer! I wish you nothing but good fortune on your artistic journey.
  14. Lets Talk About NMM

    If you are photographing a miniature NMM gets a slight edge. But if you are viewing a miniature in the round it is true metals all the way. Why? Because NMM will always look wrong if not viewed from those "magic" angles. Remember metals are not like everything else when it comes to highlights- the reflections on metals move with you when you move around the piece wherein the rest of the shadows and highlights on non-metallic areas stay in one place. That is why NMM is "tricky"- you are trying to use a 2D technique on a 3D object. So for an online painting contest NMM will have a slight edge (as you have converted a 3D model into a 2D picture) but if you are doing a live viewing NMM should actually work against you. My pet peeve on OSL is models that are painted as if they are standing in the broad daylight, then finished off with an OSL effect from something that obviously wouldn't be bright enough to overcome sunlight and cause an OSL effect. Look back at that Ork dread vs Sister fight...notice that the models are painted as if they are in a dark area and the flames actually are bright enough to cause an OSL effect. If those models were in the daylight you would barely get an OSL effect, if you got any OSL effect at all. You need that darkness to make OSL look right. But then you get a model painted as if they were in bright daylight holding a torch or candle that is giving off an OSL effect and it just doesn't work, you get that "why is there yellow paint on their arms?" effect.
  15. Basilisk

    ...until you feed him after midnight!