Darkmeer

House Tabletop
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About Darkmeer

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    Eyes in the Darkness
  • Birthday April 28

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    Nessus, IL

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  1. Sturgis goes last, but, if possible, he will move up to use his "rebuke death" ability on Janalyth. Let me know if that is possible and I'll roll dice and update the stat part. Spell stuff
  2. To a kid? What age? To a kindergardener? Dr. Seuss. Seriously. Suess is the best. To a 5th grader? Harry Potter To a teen? Dragonlance Chronicles Trilogy... I have my teen reading the complete Hitchiker's guide to the Galaxy (all 3 books together) right now. To an Adult: Dresden Files: Storm Front. Or Johannes Cabal, Necromancer. Discworld, especially the Death stuff.
  3. Using the magic of friendship, they would both win and humanity would be wiped out, creating a green world in which the animal kingdom would no longer suffer... at least until the sun goes supernova, that is...
  4. Nickname's Red, Cell Mate's Tiny, and we're getting out Angry Birds style...
  5. Thank you, I was still wrong, but thank you. Thing is I don't care one way or another (avoiding beekeepers here, but I'm pro-legalization, despite having no interest in the stuff myself).
  6. Agree with your sentiment for the day. Riding a wave of migraine misery today. Many apologies for coming across as a complete jerk with my comments, David. I reread my comments and I came across as rather bitter and angry about something that I shouldn't have.
  7. I'm an oddball in that I've never done any version of this (medical or otherwise). I have no interest in knowing or naming a flavor of it, sorry guys, gals, and otherwise. Have fun storming the castle today, everyone.
  8. Nicely done! I was on the fence about this KS. You did a great job! I'm now jealous that I did not get in on it, especially with that bubbling piece!
  9. 2008... Next move will be sooner than I'd like. There are reasons, and the loss of my job is likely impending due to health issues (and lack of being able to perform being due to said issues). Customer Service is a bear that way.
  10. @Arc 724 I haven't seen the time frame yet. I have heard fall. So I'm guessing August-October.
  11. Think about where the light is coming from, and hit the "top" of the ridges and tops of the muscles and so on that would be facing the light The shadows will be opposite that or in the crevasses of the miniature. Sorry, getting sleepy (night time medicine). My apologies for being less clear there. That's a sure sign it's time for bed... As to brushes, check the brush health coach needed thread (can't figure out linking at the moment) in this section of the forums. Also, you may want to think about LARGER brushes, which seems counterintuitive, but it's true. Think about maybe a size 2 or even a size 3 brush for some of your base-coating needs, which will allow more paint to be taken into the ferrule, meaning more painting and less wear on the brush itself. I use a size 2 or 3 for a lot of my later brush work. In fact, Abyzarran here was painted mostly with a #3 brush, until the very end, when I went down to a number 1 for his eyes and tongue. (also a good comparison for progress versus the Chainmail Aasimar cleric above. The Aasimar was painted circa 2006, while Abyzarran below here was painted in 2013, so PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!).
  12. Welcome to the Madhouse! We're all Mad as Hatter's here, although the multicolored wolves will probably disagree about the angry sounding nature of that statement, as they do not suffer from their malady, but rather enjoy it (I'm being silly, by the way, which normally comes in some tone of purple on these forums along with sarcasm). First off, the section you really wanted to post this in is Works in Progress (I'd recommend pinging a mod to move the topic). No biggie there, we ALL have made mistakes on topic placement, self included. Second point. You're painting bones. Good choice! I am rather fond of the Bones Kobolds, as they are very forgiving despite your feelings towards them being sloppy. Paint looks to be in the generally correct locations. I'm going to give you a basic tabletop (see my house) idea of how to paint. I paint at a variety of levels, but tabletop is a good starting point, and you're already 90% of the way there (you do have bare plastic showing on the bases... see, madness I tells ya, madness!). Anyhoo, you've started with what is known as the "base coat" or mid-tone of the pieces. This gets the basic feel of the piece out there, and it CAN be a bit messy to start. The best advice here, if you want to make your life easier later, is to make sure your brush maintains its point, much like a pencil, a pointed brush works better than one that is frayed. Drying times vary by relative humidity and primer on the bones. Usually, with acrylic paints, only a few minutes is needed. That can be longer in cooler and more humid areas, but usually less than 6 minutes is a good solid time. If it smears, you can let it dry a bit longer (and clean your brush if that happens!). After the base coat, a darker tone is usually applied using a thinned down, darker paint (with reds and earth tones, a dark brown thinned quite a bit to make a wash). A wash is relatively transparent over the other paint, and is intended to seep into the cracks of the base coat. It will darken the base coat. After this you can reclaim the base coat by repainting areas that got darkened that you did not wish to darken, or you can move straight to highlighting, which you can do as a general direct from above highlighting (my preference, and a good way for most beginners to paint), or you can move to something more challenging, but that can come later. I hope you find this helpful, and not just a wall of text. By comparison, the earliest photographed model I have on file is this one: We all start somewhere. You've got a good start on much smaller, much more complicated miniatures. Here's hoping to seeing more progress!
  13. Golden retarder is a good one, but it is thicker than others. That's one of the bigger problems with it. It goes on thick. So, what I usually do is put a "paint drop" size drop on my palette, and take a small portion of that and mix in with thinned-with-water paint. It will thicken the paint back again, and then you thin it back down to a nicer consistency to what you were using to begin with. I like it for when I am blending, but otherwise not so much. It's one of the rare addititves for me, but it is one that is in my arsenal. EDIT: Ratios.... ratios are going to be off depending on how much of the retarder you use, I recommend as small a portion as you feel comfortable with given the amount of water and paint you are using. Expect your drying times to double if not triple depending on your relative humidity. I have had one figure take roughly 30 minutes to completely dry.
  14. Taxes are done. If I had a refund, it was already spent.
  15. I agree with you (I also own the Dragon Empires Primer, but could never convince my players even a passing interest in the AP... thus not recalling the name and general laziness... That and Green Regent was a Forgotten Realms thing, which I am recalling now that you brought that up.). Also back to sci fi: I think that you are right about the sci-fi thing. Military and mecha are pretty much it. I think that star wars minis did it for skirmishes and RPG, and Rogue Trader back in the day. There are *SOME* out there (Chronoscape among others), but they are few and far between.