Cyradis

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About Cyradis

  • Rank
    Uber-Mensch
  • Birthday 07/10/89

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Colorado Rockies
  • Interests
    Geology, physics, flying, gardening, beekeeping, horseback riding, painting, beading, silversmithing, math, off-roading, butterflies, D&D.

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465 profile views
  1. Excellent! Also great tea kettle :)
  2. This guy was straight up the Bette Davis tutorial method on the Tips & Tricks stickied page. Paint the eyes first before all else. Whites, then the iris and pupil, then the liner (looks like a panda here), then the skin. It is almost a cheatie method, and it does require an opaque enough skin to overpaint the eyeliner somewhat.
  3. Rio Grande jewelry supplier is awesome just in general. They were the go-to supplier for when I was in silversmithing class. If you want high end precision files and the like, I recommend them just on jewelry experience. I occasionally use my jewelry burnishing tool on minis now. I may have just been given a crazy scheme to pull out my graver and try to engrave patterns onto figures.... uh oh. Thanks Wren for reminding me of cool jeweler tools.
  4. Darnit. Another item going on the wishlist. And for the Eli figure, that position can be filed if you have a small set. I'd start with the knife, but use the file more. Then I'd try to burnish.
  5. Thanks for clarifying the flat/filbert, Pingo. My favorite "flats" are filberts and labeled as flats. I find them really great for shallow curves, flat areas, or very sharp top edges. Rounds I like more in creases.
  6. If I had to use only one brush, I would want a size 0 round of a good brand kolinsky or high end synthetic. If I had a second, I would add a size 0 or 1 flat. However, I am currently considering more brushes. I don't yet have a Winsor & Newton, Raphael, or Davinci (someday I will bite the bullet and get them!). I am trying Rosemary & Co right now and they seem like they'll last a while, but they take taming a few times per session to go back to a point. In use, the point is good and they hold water well. I am really happy with the Virtuoso multipack I got on Amazon. Not perfect quality, but for $10-15 for 10 brushes, even if you have a few you like it is worth it. Plus it comes with a case. The flats and the 4/0 I like a bunch in their pack. The customer service was also great; they emailed me to see if I liked it. I let them know that 1/10 brushes had arrived splayed but others were all good. They sent a whole new pack out unprompted to make up for one brush.
  7. I have a few synthetic Reaper brushes. They are delegated for broad area base coating mostly. Too clunky otherwise.
  8. Thanks, Volksfest! :)
  9. This is excellent! He has so much character!
  10. I will certainly give that a shot on the next one! Would the Heather Blue by Reaper be a good candidate for classic steel? I'll try dabbing on the thumb. I did notice a bit of coarseness by using the paper towel. Hopefully I can get the moisture to behave :)
  11. Alright, the most preliminary brown shading has happened. Will get much more thorough than this. And the bodice has begun. I think that color is Nightshade Purple - it is *almost* black. I will be shading/highlighting it to appear black or near-black, instead of purple though.
  12. You have a pretty darn good painting setup then; I don't think I have space to do that at my painting station. Will definitely try to find the setting on my camera to lower the aperture too. Thanks :)
  13. Thanks! I did use a slightly bluish gray for the NMM, but tipped the edges in black, and had a dominant white area. Agreed on making the blending smoother - the first one (his right hand, front) was the toughest - I think they improved slightly from there. What do you recommend for balancing pigments and liquids on the brush to glaze? I've been trying to super thin my paint, pick it up on the brush, then blot the brush so it isn't soaked. I end up with a low density of pigments on the brush, however it dries super fast. If I mess up the blotting, I get water spots. If I mess up the thinning, it is too opaque. I guess the glazing question applies to both the NMM and the skin. I am pleased with the skin, but could see a tiny bit of red helping. No way a pirate remembers sunscreen all the time, so he probably should have a bit of a scorched noggin.
  14. She's looking really great! I like the blue-ninja stylings and her combat focused face. What are you using for your WIP photo setup? I got my equipment running (still relearning), but it takes a while for me to set it all up and take down, so I hadn't thought to use it for WIPs.