• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

403 NPC

About junex

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/03/67

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Manila, Philippines
  1. Great video. I appreciate your thought processes (maybe because it's about the same as mine). I'd like to see more of your techniques though. Subscribed and waiting for the next one.
  2. I'm with Doug, I think capillary action's a bigger factor than gravity. I've always let my brushes dry standing upright and I've never had any problems. I rinse my brush every time before I load with paint again. With this system my brushes usually just needs a final rinse in water at the end of a painting session. I clean my brushes maybe once a month with shampoo then conditioner.
  3. I have a pot of Coat D' Arms Flesh Wash whose components separates really bad. Usually takes around 15 seconds on my mixer before it's thoroughly mixed. I've always had a problem with that flesh wash drying glossy before. Not anymore since I got a vortex mixer. So I've been using 15s for all my other paints, Reaper & Scale75.
  4. I've always just used the spine of my X-Acto blade.
  5. The holder itself was turned on a lathe. The metal part is actually gauge 10 copper wire. It's soft enough not to be too difficult to be manipulated but still tough enough. I mean, if I want to I can still bend the finished product as I am using it but it holds up to normal usage. I'd like to take credit for the concept but my employee actually came up with that one after I pointed out that I'd easily loose the skull plug and locking ring of the original. Tools he used were a pair of pliers whose jaws are wrapped with masking tape and various pieces of metal to mold the shapes on. He started with a piece of wire that's about 2 inches longer than the finished piece (we already established how long was needed after doing a couple). Starting at the middle of the wire he first forms the finger rest portion. The "neck" part was fairly easy. The tricky part was the portion that fit in the groove. Using an old precision gauge as a mold, he first forms the first half of the loop and trims it to roughly the the opposite side of where he started. He then forms the 2nd half and trims and fits it to match the first half. He then takes a few more minutes to make small adjustments so both halves meet as close as possible when closed. He then uses a gauge 18 or 20 copper wire to make the locking ring. We're particularly proud of the design because it functions practically the same but now the locking ring is captured within the whole finger rest device. I hope this made sense.
  6. Pics! I was hesitant posting a picture since it's a copied design but my wife pointed out that I wasn't selling them so:
  7. My family owns a small machine shop so I had my own version of the Rathcore design made with a couple of revisions.
  8. I bought Stynylrez's original set of white, black & gray. I only apply it with a paintbrush and I love it. Not as efficient as spray priming but I only prime around 3 or 4 figures at the most in one go anyway. - I prefer light gray. I use around a 3:1 white to gray mixture. - I find any shade between the white and gray, they're light enough that natural shadows make the details easier to see for me. - With thin coats, yeah I can see a difference BUT I've rarely been happy with my color choices and application on the 1st try (sometimes even the 2nd or 3rd) so the layers quickly become opaque enough that effect is gone. So I just stick to light gray. I have tried wet blending the 3 primer colors with a really good zenithal priming but like I said about my layers become opaque eventually so it wasn't worth the extra effort for me. I find it easier to identify where the shadows go now anyway.
  9. I love resin, I know they can be fragile and sometimes the sculpt itself does not help. I buy figures to collect and display. If given an option I'd go for resin unless the sculpt looks really fragile. If metal is not an option I'd still buy it but I'd also buy nice looking bell jar to put it in. I'm still looking for a nice dome jar for one of the my WIPs. I've broken it near the ankle and repaired it 3x since I started on it.
  10. What he said. Life is too short and figures are too inexpensive to paint figures you don't love. I'll echo what both Doug's said. Just go paint what you have, maybe start with your least favorite one but paint the minis you love. When I began painting again I bought a lot of minis some of which I set aside for when I got better at it. Fast forward a few years and with a lot more experience I revisited those minis I was saving. Guess what, I didn't care to paint them anymore. My taste in minis changed or I got better minis since then but either way I wished I painted them when I was excited to paint them. I think what helps me keep getting better is that I love the mini I'm painting.
  11. I know they're supposed to be disposable but I still don't like to throw stuff away when they work so well. So, when I'm done with a particular blister palette I just throw them in a container of Simple Green overnight. The following day I just rinse them off and they're good as new.
  12. Back when I used candy blister packs I used to keep them in a water-tight container at room temperature, they'd last for at least a week before they're too dried up to revive. I was using 3:2 paint to retarder mix. Except for the metallics, they dried up quicker. In the end I ended up just using my Masterson sta-wet handy palette container. I'd just bring out the candy blister palette that I needed and kept the rest inside the container. I also used some 3M removable clear mounting squares on the cover of the container so I can stick the blister palettes on them to prevent them moving around as I loaded my brush or made some on-the-fly mixes. I also had a large rectangular blister pack that fits over the blister palette that I used as a temporary cover in case I had to take a short break to help prevent evaporation. I don't know if it actually helps though.
  13. I have an Anex/Godhand pin vise, I believe it's similar to the Tamiya. (picture from the net, not mine) As you can see on the package can hold from size 0.1mm to 3.2mm. Smallest drill bit I've actually used with it was a 0.3mm (~#83?) I have small hands so I like the rubber sleeve on the barrel when I find it difficult to reach the head.
  14. The barbarian speaks Trooth. Thanks! I have great teachers. :D
  15. One of the first I painted back in the early 90's. Took a long break. Decided to paint again, ordered a set of Reaper paints in the middle of 2010. Here's something I did back then: I understood the concept of highlights and shadows but execution was till lacking. Fast forward to now, this is probably one of my current favorites: And a WIP: I've been working on her on and off for a couple of months now. I messed up the initial layers, still trying to fix it.