themudhead

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About themudhead

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  1. If I can make it to Reapercon 2017, I will be bringing many of mine along. I hope to have enough trades for a Pathfinder Harrow deck soon. But, I am picky... Here is an example: Oct4-TentacleTuesday.tif
  2. That paint job is incredible. But the mini should have been named: Elanter, The Ham-Fisted Pudge. With those giant hands and chunky looking tummy, its a whole lotta nope from me. Again. Guess I'll have to wait another month. At least Reaper has tons of other minis I "Need!" LAL...
  3. How can you tell the difference between a Bones model and a Metal model when all you can see is a number, sculptor, price, and a pretty picture of a painted model where you cannot see what it is made of and the text doesn't tell you? I'm sorry, but I won't collect plastic bones models. I want metal only, I'm probably not alone in this. I'd like to get 03702: Peryton but only if it is metal.
  4. Well, for one, if it is a mini painting tournament can we paint minis and not have to build huge dioramas or elaborate bases? Hint: this is why I'm not doing the shoe box diorama so I'm out of that tournament until next year.
  5. I would reverse two and three. Do the base the way you want then attach the model then prime. That way you don't have the feet of the model stuck down into the base but look as if it is on top.
  6. <-------- went from bronze to silver level by throwing away my citadel paints and going with Reapers.... and some Vallejos mixed in...
  7. The only thing I'm getting are the metal Sophies. Some of us don't want plastic in our collections. And, yes, they will go on the self and into my games. Fair warning "Twighlight Demons" (You know who you are). Also, those Sophies are already past the "Martin paint examples" stage. PS., Sounds like there will be extras lying around. So here's hoping I see a couple in the melt bin at next years Reapercon.
  8. Rule number one, you have to be a member of wamp to enter. Rule number 7, public vote. This all means that popular wamp persons have an advantage. Thanks but, no thanks. Good luck to all who choose to enter.
  9. So, what gives? Is the USPS being slow again?
  10. Automotive primers are designed to be gap fillers. You can always use Reapers brush on primer with a (50%/50%)/50% mix of (Mix 50%brush on primer with 50% distilled water, then mix that with 50% rubbing alcohol)... and spray that on in the confines of your apartment with an airbrush. Works great! You may want to wear a mask or get a filter system just in case... and always clean your airbrush well.
  11. They're just trolling for members. ;)
  12. Another way of saying this: "That Guy" is now Reaper's only painter. No more paint crew. Way less overhead... Nothing but love for you, "That Guy." There are pros and cons to this. Looking forward to seeing how this all plays out, but you can't have it both ways... or can you? What about a featured paint job... but I guess that is what Inspiration Gallery is for...
  13. I guess results vary. Yeah, I don't use automotive or house primers any more. I used Krylon and others on my Warmachine models. I used Tamiya Fine White on my Anima Tactics models. Reaper paints on both. And all models get a good washing... Results: My Anima Tactics models are used 3 times as much and it is the Krylon models that are chipped and showing the metal.
  14. That used to happen to me alot. But as it turns out, I was indeed touching the mini even though I'd punch your "me-mah" to prove I wasn't. And since you are not using a primer, the paint will flake off much easier. Sounds like you are doing things correctly, I think. Paint, then seal. Then paint more. Always use a primer. Do you see bare metal when the paint flakes off? Then you'll need to use a primer. Use Tamiya Fine white spray on primer. You should be able to get cans from ebay or other shops pretty easy. If no bare metal when it flakes off: It could also be the paint itself. Paint (coughCitadelcoughcough) has been known to get old/crappy and the pigment/color part separates molecularly from the suspender. I know Citadel paint will quickly separate, even in a closed pot (its one of their marketing gimmicks. They sell more paint that way). As it dries, the color gets thinner and thinner, especially along ridges or sharp areas of a model. Breathe on it hard and the edge becomes a white edge and looks worn off. I have also had paint reactivate and lose it's color as I layer more on. Same kind of thing. It is just old paint or paint that is not mixed well. The sealer helps prevent this sort of thing. I think spray sealer (Dullcote or similar) will work better than brush-on as the brush will wipe away color from the surface of the model. Also, if you don't practice watering paint down and getting consistent results then you'll be a slave to the way the paint works and not it's master. You will also find it extremely difficult when it comes time to mix colors and get those consistent. No two red shirts are exactly the same color anyway. Just go for it. Reapers paint should not have the color separating problem (excepting for a razor edge or needle tip). You can get paint direct from Reaper website. I don't seal my models. With Reaper paint, I haven't needed to and I mastered color matching for touching up well used game models... Hope this helps.
  15. Shrimpy Culvertson, cook/ratter, and Masher. Shrimpy is small and is unable to carry Masher around for too long. Here we see them resting a bit before continuing. Just don't ask what Shrimpy puts in the stew. The model is about 23-24 mm in height (toes to top of head) and has no fingers (flat paddles), neck detail, or eyes (hollow). He's missing a couple of toes too. Enjoy.