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Ghool last won the day on February 25 2012

Ghool had the most liked content!

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About Ghool

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    Calgary Alberta
  • Interests
    Miniature painting, Warmachine, Boardgaming, and my kids!

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  1. I let them soak for about 5 minutes. Then put slight pressure on the end of the ferrule, whilst rolling the brush side to side on your towel. Give it a quick swish and repeat until no more junk is coming from the ferrule. It helps avoid the lengthy soak, which as mentioned above, will destroy your brushes faster. Just be careful about how much pressure you put on the ferrule - it only needs to be very slight in order for the towel to draw the paint out.
  2. I'm just trying to point out that the trace amounts of anything in your brush is nothing compared to what gets put in our food and other stuff we're told is safe. I think the issue of licking your brush gets blown way out of proportion compared to the toxic constituents of every day food.
  3. If you've never checked the ingredient list for any vaccine, you're in for a big surprise. They all contain formaldehyde, mercury and many more toxic chemicals along with bovine kidney cells, animal DNA and many more questionable ingredients. Getting vaccinated is just as, if not more unsafe than licking your brush. This is especially true for you if you get seasonal vaccines for the flu and such. Licking your brush doesn't seem so unsafe if you actually pay attention to what you're eating and having injected into your body by medical professionals. I've been a brush licker for over a decade and have yet to have any sort of health problems at all. However I don't eat wheat, corn, refined sugar, fast or processed food, nor do I get vaccinated. If you want to suggest people have healthier habits, let's worry about greater problems than licking a paint brush. Take a look at what's sprayed on your food and what industry I telling you to put in your body, and it's a lot worse than what your paint brush is treated with. Look up glyphosate and what it does to the human body. Then look up how much of our food is sprayed with it and how often. I'd rather lick my brush any day than eat food doused in neurotoxin, or get ammonia or formaldehyde injected directly into my bloodstream. But everyone is allowed to do what they wish.
  4. So, a couple of months ago, I collected feedback from my Patrons on how I could improve the videos. The following video is the first video featuring my new format, which is based on the mentioned feedback. Gone is the time-lapse painting - all painting is shown in real time. There is less music more commentary, and much more explicit, and in-depth explanation. Production quality is improved, with a consistent intro, finished model photos, and colours shown at each stage of the painting. I hope everyone enjoys the improvements, and if you didn't care for my videos before, I would suggest you give them another chance. Starting here. Quick Tip #61 - How to Paint Obsidian (Skorne Immortal)
  5. I remember all of these when they first came out. Now I feel old..... Nice stuff though!
  6. Quick Tip #60 - How to Paint Black Armour YouTubers need to do some catching up! So, you'll see a quick tip for the next two weeks on Saturday! Huzzah! This is the final video where I time-lapse paint. All videos going forward will have more commentary, explanation, and all the painting will be shown in real-time. There won't be as much painting, except for pertinent, and key bits. Look forward to massive improvements in the production and quality going forward. Another video that extends and expands the 'Painting Black' series, and this time dealing specifically with flat armour plating. I change things up with a more stark and colourless black, using blue-ish greys instead of my usual Coal Black for highlights. All paints used in this video are Formula P3 by Privateer Press unless stated otherwise. Base - Thamar Black Highlight 1 - 50/50 mix of Thamar Black + Greatcoat Grey Highlight 2 - pure Greatcoat Grey Glaze Thamar Black on the bottom 50% of each armour plate, and in all the recesses. Edge Highlight with 25/75 mix of Morrow White + Greatcoat Grey
  7. Take these from a little farther away and they will look stellar. Especially good job on the woman's eyes.
  8. Quick Tip #59 - Using Natural Materials This is a quick episode about using natural materials found in your local environment. I demo how to make your own leaf scatter using birch tree seed pods and show you one other flower that dries well and looks great as scale miniature bushes - yellow yarrow. Take a look around your own neighborhood for things you can use for basing and terrain. There's a lot you'll be able to find for free that looks unique and provides some originality to your miniatures and terrain.
  9. Is it possible to enter the exchange, just to cover some one that doesn't get their mini? I'd like to enter, but I don't need to do an exchange. Is that possible? I sent in the form anyways. Feel free to set me up with some one whom didn't get their mini for the last one, or one before. I'd be happy to provide a nicely painted model for some one who missed out.
  10. I'm not sure if this one is too small!
  11. Just a bunch of junk from the bitz box and glued together, along with a GS sidewalk and curb.
  12. Another one for Patrons this month. It's been so long since I have painted an Infinity model, I'd forgotten at how beautiful the sculpts really are. I pulled inspiration from Akira since the bike reminded me so much of those comics. This one was easy to paint, and since it was Infinity I had to go NMM and I did my best to match the quality of Angel Giraldez. I'm not sure if it was mission accomplished...
  13. Ok, best way to do this is to leave the tab on the minis feet if you can. Especially so if it's a metal model, as the sturdiness of the cork will be tested with a big metal warjack or something. Glue the cork to the base. Mark where the tab of the model will fit into the top of the cork. Remove that portion of cork with a hobby knife. Superglue the models tab into the hole you cut. Fill with putty or sand once dry to hide the seams and glue. In the case of a big model, make the hole for the tab a bit bigger, if it has a tab. If not, put a pin in the foot, and cut a hole in the cork bigger than the pin. Fill your pin/tab hole with putty. Slather the pin/tab with superglue, and insert it into the putty whilst soft. Let it cure. But keep an eye on it so it doesn't slide to the side, or fall off until cured a bit. Both of these solutions have worked well enough for me that I can paint any model while based, and send them on cross-country/continent trips through the mail without damage. Cork is plenty sturdy for plastic models. The metal ones need a bit of re-inforcement, but the above methods should keep your cork bases nigh-indestructible.
  14. I was thinking g on this and if the mini is primed, wouldn't that prevent it from getting lead rot? Or at least coming into contact with the actual acid? I haven't had a problem with oxidization. But I don't use a wet palette very often and Im not sure what the fascination with them is. I find it too much trouble and fiddly. But I am lazy and can colour match like it no one's business. It could be because I bought a wet palette only last year. I still prefer my wells though.
  15. How many new painters have old lead figures though? I have a huge pile of them. But, I'm old as dirt.