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Jordan Peacock

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Jordan Peacock last won the day on September 24 2018

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About Jordan Peacock

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  • Birthday 12/10/1970

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    Orlando, Florida, USA
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    Sculpting, kitbashing, scenery/terrain, painting.

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  1. Hmm. I've got a whole pack of "Lone Wolves" to paint up, that and I've been puzzling over what color to paint each one (can't ALL be cherry red, or that'd be dull). Suddenly I've got this crazy idea to paint one in rainbow glitter paint (I hardly ever use the stuff -- I wonder if it's still any good?) and dub it the "Lone Glitter Wolf" or the "Glitter Lone Wolf." Not that anybody who sees it is going to get the joke, but it'd definitely be *different*. :)
  2. I've got 8 or 9 of these old Ral Partha 25mm scale Shadowrun "Lone Wolf" (20-581) sets, circa 1996, which I once picked up with the intent of painting up for a "biker gang" for post-apocalyptic settings. I half had a mind to somehow "remove" the rider so I'd have some cool bikes that I could replace with a variety of drivers, but it (too late) became evident to me that would be a much harder project than I originally envisioned. Much, much later, I dug the bikes back out with the interest in seeing how they might stack up against ~20mm toy cars used for Gaslands, as I'd seen someone posing some Shadowrun bikers next to their 1:64 scale cars and they looked pretty nice. The trouble, I realize, is that some Gaslanders have been using GENUINELY 1:64 cars, which are actually larger than the typical Hot Wheels toy (and, not surprisingly, tend to cost much more, too). Nonetheless, it might be close enough for me to get away with it ... until someone else puts some "Sons of Anarchy" bikes on the table and these guys dwarf them. The "conversion" aspect here is that I used some brown-stuff putty to add a bandoleer on the riding version of the model (for some reason he is only cast as having one when standing), and for both versions I added a pip-boy on the left wrist. The figure is painted up in both cases as wearing a blue Vault Suit, but over that is a long-coat inspired by one of the designs the Courier might end up with as a prize at the end of the "Lonesome Road" DLC. (Other designs include the Bull of the Legion, or the Bear of the NCR, if you aligned with either of those factions. The "21" -- a reference to Vault 21 in New Vegas, I suppose -- is apparently the design if you decide either to side with Mr. House, or to fight for a "free" Vegas.) I decided to go with the "Fallout" theme primarily because the bike has a strong resemblance to the "Lone Wanderer" bike from Fallout 4, but also because I couldn't help but draw a mental comparison between the "Lone Wolf" name of the model and the "Lone Wanderer" name of the bike. (If only it could be driven around in Fallout 4! And if only there were a large enough sandbox world full of dusty roads to drive it down. ;) ) One weird quirk about the model bike is that it has really FAT wheels, such that it can pretty much stand on its own -- not that WELL, alas, as it knocks over pretty easily, but it's still possible.
  3. Jordan Peacock

    80034 Weapons Locker (for scatter terrain)

    That sounds awesome (and I'll have to look into this), but it sounds slightly backwards, unless I misunderstand what the chipping medium *does*. Wouldn't you paint the rust FIRST, then paint the "original color" OVER that? The idea of the effect should suggest that the paint color is flaking away, and areas of metal that have been exposed underneath have turned rusty, so if the end effect has any depth at all, I'd expect the rust to go underneath. Actually, thinking about this, I figure there ought to be some reviews or techniques out there, so I did a Google search. I found a review here: http://tibbsforge.com/vallejo-chipping-medium/ I may just have to try this. Thanks for the pointer! :)
  4. Jordan Peacock

    Sky-Fi Cyberpunk Flier (Hot Wheels)

    Huh. Good thought! Maybe the dollar stores and "Big Lots" type stores have *last year's* collection of Hot Wheels, etc. It's a shot in the dark, but I guess I could stop by a few and see if I get lucky. (Most of my Hot-Wheels hunting -- for Gaslands -- has been elsewhere, because I know the baseline cost for a Hot Wheels car is $1 or less. The best deal I got was 69 cents shortly before Christmas at Home Depot, which had a "special shipment" deal that was soon picked over -- I just happened to get some because I was in there getting some parts for home repairs. A friend of mine found some 59-cent Hot Wheels at a local Target. But a DOLLAR store? In no way do I expect to find anything CHEAPER than what I just mentioned THERE. ;D )
  5. Jordan Peacock

    Sky-Fi Cyberpunk Flier (Hot Wheels)

    I just wish I could still find them at Walmart. They're from the 2017 series of Hot Wheels, near as I can tell. I think the one I found (I looked for others, in vain) was just a chance older model that was somehow mixed in with the more recent ones. Froggy the Great managed to work one into one of his Gaslands motorized monstrosities. :) The die cast part by itself would make a great unmanned drone piece (one that might work with 32mm), if only I sawed off the tall vertical shaft that is attached to it and which runs through the whole of the piece from top to bottom. (It's the part I have to Dremel-grind at on the bottom in order to disassemble the whole thing.) I love the idea of the flying brain-drone, for a wilder sort of "late night show B-movie" sort of sci-fi setting, but I could also envision maybe just removing the cockpit insert area (some cutting would be required) and turning it into a one-seater that might accommodate some of my older-school 25mm Ral Partha Shadowrun minis. (Okay, even back then, they were pushing into the 28mm range, but were still noticeably smaller than today's Chronoscope minis, which I would classify as more in the range of 32mm or even pushing 34mm.) Hmm. Actually, I should put this thing next to some of my old "Doom: the Board Game" minis. Those were what I once upon a time would have qualified as "true" 25mm. (As in "25mm represents 6 feet." Pretty close to 1:72.) As it so happens, the infamous "Bag o' Zombies" (Twilight Creations) is also extreme 25mm: that is, right around 25mm from the bottom of the zombie's feet to the top of the zombie's head, so maybe I should put them next to the copter as well, and perhaps I'm on to a suitable vehicle for some sort of cyberpunk demonzombiepocalyptic setting. ;) (On a scale tangent, I still can't figure out why Hot Wheels are deemed both "1:64" and "20mm scale," when "1:72" is deemed "25mm scale." I can only assume that these do NOT represent the same set of criteria being used. And, yeah, I know, scale is a messy issue when miniatures are concerned. ;) Even more so with TOYS.)
  6. Jordan Peacock

    Sky-Fi Cyberpunk Flier (Hot Wheels)

    I LOVE that idea! I actually have a brain-in-a-jar on my shelf o' shame. Hmmmmmm.
  7. Jordan Peacock

    80034 Weapons Locker (for scatter terrain)

    Thanks! One thing I've got to do one of these days is to figure out how to do REAL peeling paint. It's the sort of thing I can occasionally do by accident, but never on demand. I know there's some kind of method that involves first painting a model all rusty-looking, then putting some salt (?) grains on it, spray-on hair fixative, then spray-painting it some outer color, and then deliberately breaking the resulting area where the paint is bulged out by the salt grains, or something like that. I also remember a long time ago, in the fabric store I could get "crackle paint" medium: it was a brush-on "paint" that was sold in the same section as the craft acrylics, and the idea was that you'd paint it whatever color you wanted to show through the cracks, then paint a layer of this clear "crackle paint" medium over that, and then when that dried, paint an outer layer of paint over THAT, and when that dried, it should shrink and crackle, I guess because the medium did something to the surface that messed with the outer paint. I actually had some, but it was the sort of thing best used for LARGE and fairly flat areas (not useful on the scale of a single typical miniature, or even small terrain pieces), but I wonder if it would have worked for something as large and solid as the Weapons Locker or Shipping Container. I suppose if I were really determined, I could paint SEVERAL layers of acrylic over a flat surface, then deliberately distress it, and if the acrylic was applied thickly enough, I'd probably end up with a layer sturdy enough to be peeled back a bit. Hmm. Now that I think about it, I wonder if I might not be able to do something that borrows something of the spirit of the "salt and hair spray" method, but with pieces of scrap paper or plastic. Basically, I'd paint things rusty (as usual) but then stick some piece of thin plastic scrap onto the surface (not glued, but allowed to just get stuck there by the paint? -- or, hey, maybe hair spray) and deliberately paint the "outer coating" all around it, and thickly. Then, go back with a fingernail and tear out the scrap that's buried in the paint. If I applied the outer "coat" of acrylic thickly enough, I ought to get some paint "tearing" at the edges. I guess the trick would be whether I'd end up destroying the underlying "rust" effect as well in the process. I suppose I could try experimenting on a piece of scrap plastic and see what comes of it. (And, hey, if I end up with a rusty, paint-peeling piece of scrap plastic, I could probably actually work it into something -- such as a junk wall barricade. :D )
  8. This started with me shopping for some "miniatures" to use with Gaslands -- or, that is, some Hot Wheels cars, ostensibly in "1:64" scale, and often cited as being around 20mm scale. The thing is, scale is awfully squishy when it comes to toys, and especially for the Matchbox/Hot Wheels world of toy cars, when you have buses, vans, construction vehicles, semi rigs, airplanes, helicopters, sports cars, VW bugs, motorcycles, carts, etc., essentially the SAME SIZE. I've sometimes used Hot Wheels motorcycles for use with Chronoscope figures (roughly 32mm scale) because of that "scale-squish" -- and whether or not they're truly the right scale, they "look okay." My hope upon seeing this vehicle was that I'd be in the same boat for using this as some sort of personal high-tech flying conveyance for a cyberpunk campaign. Well, my first mistake was that I didn't scrutinize the interior nearly well enough: it's not a one-seater, but rather a two-seater. (In my defense, it was kind of hard to make out the details with all that weird chrome going on, while the toy was still in the blister package.) The other was that I probably should have actually brought a mini with me (or some sort of measurement proxy) before supposing that this would really be big enough for 32mm. Next to a Gaslands car, this thing looks "too big," but the SEATS inside look closer to 20mm. The top of the toy is die-cast, while the rest is plastic. (Why just the one part is die-cast metal, instead of just EVERYTHING being plastic, I don't know, really.) Some of the newer Hot Wheels can be disassembled fairly easily if the part that holds everything together happens to be plastic -- since that means I can drill out the "rivet" (not sure what to call it) on bottom easily. The metal takes a bit more work, but once done, the whole thing comes apart. (Why would I want to do this? Well, I want to base-coat everything, but I don't want to paint over that clear windshield. Also, it's a lot easier to paint the interior this way.) I happened to be working on Reaper Bones #80054 "Starship Terminal" at the same time, which I was painting up in a scheme of grey (with darker grey details, white highlights, and "glowing" blue accents), and the similarity of the blue with the cockpit made me consider doing up the Sky-Fi vehicle in the same scheme. After reassembling, I did some more touch-up work and highlights. (Ditto for the Starship Terminal.) I like the look. I just wish I could magically enlarge the copter a bit so it might look like Sarah Blitzer could actually fit in the seat. (The regular IMEF troopers would have an even worse time of it, I figure.) Just another view of the Sky-Fi that shows the scale disparity even more clearly. :/ Eh. Maybe I could get away with sticking it on the edge of a cyberpunk tabletop scene, and as long as nobody gets too close to it, maybe the players won't notice the scale issue. (I mean, several of my buildings and whatnot on the table have some pretty "squishy" scales or else I couldn't hope to put everything on the table.)
  9. I've been getting around to the terrain pieces (such as the Shipping Containers and Weapons Lockers) from Reaper Bones, and this is the latest: #80053, "Starship Generator." I figure this would be of particular use as a scenario objective for games of "Fallout: Wasteland Warfare" (which I've recently gotten started in -- somewhat delayed because of the difficulty of actually GETTING the game and figures in my area). My first approach would've been to make this thing all rusty like I've done with most of my other scenery as of late, but then I got the thought that this is a functional piece of equipment that someone might actually care to *maintain*, even though it might still be rather weathered and ancient. I also wanted something of a retro look, so instead of painting it up in "iPhone white" color scheme such as I did with my first Starship Generator, I thought I'd either go for construction yellow, robin's-egg blue, or leaf green (with the latter two colors chosen because I thought they might be more likely to evoke the sense of a "household appliance"). In the end, I went with robin's-egg (or something in that general neighborhood). Instead of covering it with rust patches, I applied some messy washes of graphite gray (for grime) and dry-brushed with (light) dolphin gray (for a look of wear). The model already has some cables that look as if they're bodged-on, perhaps bypassing some fried internal system (no doubt some sort of SAFETY mechanism that fused!), as it looks a bit odd to have a device that looks as nicely shielded and sealed as this does having cables that pop out of a grill and then route around to another part of the same machine. (That to me says, "cable patch.") I grunged up the cables as well, and then painted in an indicator needle on the reverse side. (I don't think the detail on that side was intended to be any sort of display or meter, but it just looked as good a place as any to put some more primitive sort of indicator on the device, since, despite the model's original name, I have no intention of this ever going on a starship.) It's a bit grimy, grungy, and not worth a "showcase" post, but I just haven't seen too many (or any, for that matter) instances of the Starship Generator getting painted up, and it strikes me as a useful piece that fills an important niche as a catch-all "gizmo" that could be either an objective, or some terrain to hide behind, or a bit of "battlefield feature" that could, say, blow up if you hit it with too many plasma blasts.
  10. Jordan Peacock

    80034 Weapons Locker (for scatter terrain)

    Thanks! The guy is a Reaper mini as well, though one that doesn't appear to be in the Reaper store: S2P80003 "Deadlands: Hell on Earth - Librarian (male)" (from the "Deadlands: Hell on Earth" Kickstarter a few years back), sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. Normally the figure is holding some sort of "data pad," but I modified with some cardstock so he's holding a jumbo-sized edition of "Tesla" magazine. The pallets are from Warsenal (mini-kits of laser-cut MDF and acrylic). The street itself is made from Secret Weapon Miniatures Tablescapes "Urban Streets (damaged)" terrain tiles. The junky car is a McDonald's Happy Meal "Pixar Cars" toy from 2006 (minus the windshield/eye piece, and with some putty to "flatten" the tires). The robot to the right is a Brother Vinni resin model (Flybot).
  11. Jordan Peacock

    Adventuring Alice

    I'm very curious what sorts of considerations have to be made to a 3D model to make it more easily printable. From the context, I'm guessing that since the printer is (I suppose) "scanning" the figure up from the bottom, that sharp overhangs are a bad thing, because it can't start applying plastic in empty space and then connecting it to the main body several layers up from that point? Even the low-res mini looks great to me! At my level of painting skill, any additional fine detail would probably be wasted on me anyway. I really love the drapes and folds of the back of the dress, and the fantastically over-large hair! This would be a joy to paint up, I'm sure. :)
  12. Reaper Miniatures #80034 "Weapons Locker" -- plastic terrain piece (variable scale, used here for 32mm) -- painted up as a RobCo-labeled storage unit, as a barricade or objective for Fallout-themed post-apocalyptic games. The original model is hollow (and is fashioned in such a way that it probably wouldn't be that difficult to cut the lid open), but I just sealed up the bottom with a piece of mat board and decided to paint it up whole ... this time. (Now that I've painted the one, I'm thinking the next time I have an opportunity to grab one on sale, I may grab a couple more, and open up at least one and fill it with robo-junk.) I painted the whole thing dark brown as a base, then spackled it with Burnt Sienna, Pumpkin Orange, and King's Gold for rust effects initially. However, an entire container that's JUST rusty is kind of dull. I mean, it looked sort of okay, but there wasn't so much as a hint of paint peeling off, and that just didn't feel right. So, I went back and spackled it AGAIN with Graphite Gray and Moss Green (for deteriorating paint). I thought to myself that what it REALLY could use would be some sort of logo. At first I was thinking of a military logo, but I wasn't quite sure if the structure was plausible as military. So, I decided to go through a few different fictitious logos and see what I might be able to paint on it free-hand (this "corrugated" surface wouldn't lend itself to my printed paper "label" shortcuts -- and, besides, that'd undo all my effort on the "rust" look). In the end, I roughed out a RobCo logo (Dolphin Gray), then added some grunge (washed Graphite Gray and whatever was scraped up from the bottom of the paintbrush water cup). Voila! Grungy container with barely legible logo on it.
  13. Jordan Peacock

    Adventuring Alice

    Huh. With the translucent plastic, I guess you could leave the potion bottles un-primered (if you brush on primer everywhere else), and then do a wash effect on them instead? Or is the translucent plastic just what the 3D printer works with, rather than a specific choice? Also, what scale would this work out to be? The figure is 32mm tall, but it's of a *child*, so presumably would be shorter than full-grown adult characters at the same scale. (Unless, that is, she's already taken a bite out of the "Eat Me" cake, and therefore has just grown to larger-than-Alice-sized, in which case I suppose scale for a mini is an entirely subjective matter.)
  14. Jordan Peacock

    Adventuring Alice

    Stunning! I thought I'd check back in on this thread (I'm curious, since every now and again, I have Wonderland-themed projects on the mind) and came to this page and -- LIKE, WHOA! Computer model? Okay, I had to page back and find the part where you reveal you've got some sort of awesome "scan 3D real-world figure to make computer model" device, and perhaps a clue on where I might be able to get one (I could go back to sculpting things LARGER, where I'm more comfortable, but just shrink it down in the computer version, perhaps) ... but, ah, it looks like you "just" went and recreated the figure in 3D. Okay, that's just as amazing, really. :D
  15. Jordan Peacock

    Tablescapes Tiles

    ... Here's a scene I put together using the Secret Weapon Miniatures Tablescapes terrain tiles (Urban Streets) and Scrap Yard Barricades. The character miniatures are mostly Reaper Miniatures 32mm scale pewter or plastic gaming minis. In the cluster of three figures to the left, the leftmost one is the exception, as it's a Heavy Ranger Engineer from Dust Tactics, modified with various bits to be a stand-in for Fallout-4-style "raider" junk power armor. Just right of him is Reaper #77047, "Goldar, Male Barbarian" modified with some bits to be a post-apocalyptic sort of barbarian warrior. And just to the right and behind him is S2P80007, "Junker 2 (male)," a Reaper mini from the "Deadlands: Hell on Earth" miniatures kickstarter from Studio 2 Publishing. Over toward the right are a couple of Reaper minis painted up as Vault-Dwellers: Reaper Chronoscope #50044 "Frank Russo, Mercenary," and and Reaper Chronoscope Bones 80025 "Bonnie." In the background, the building is comprised of three sets from the McFarlane Toys "Halo Micro Ops" line: "High Ground Tower" (on each side) and "High Ground Gate" (in the middle). I supplemented this with a "Chryslus" sign made from some letterbox letters I got at JoAnn Fabric (right next to the papercrafting section), which I cut out and pinned (with paperclip wire) to a long sprue strip, which in turn I affixed (with epoxy putty and glue) to a section of mat board, reinforced with a couple of panels from a Platformer (Tehnolog / Pegasus Hobbies) construction set. The rusty display car is a McDonald's Happy Meal "Pixar Cars" toy, minus the windshield insert, and with some putty to make the tires "flat," plus some "rust" paint effects. The hanging cage is from an old Mega Bloks "Pyrates" play set. The light post / super-mutant totem piece is cobbled together from a number of "bitz": The base is from a World of Warcraft miniature (that I ended up putting on another, smaller base, a while back), with an axle piece from an old Tonka "Legions of Power" construction set and a wooden chopstick, topped with a corner construction piece from a Platformer set (I thought it looked like it would make a good street lamp fixture), joined with sections of paper clip wire. The super-mutant "meat bags" are clusters of random leftover pieces from my "bits box" jammed together with bits of epoxy putty, bound in scraps of polyester mesh. Before encasing in the polyester mesh, and while the putty had not yet fully cured, I painted the "meat sack" pieces a fleshy tone, then washed with a glossy outdoor red/burgundy paint. I then wrapped scraps of polyester mesh (left over from packaging of a small toy) around the putty, drawing tight enough to "squish" out some of the putty, temporarily pinned parts of it in place while the glue dried, and jammed a few additional body parts (mostly grasping arms) through some gaps in the mesh, into sections of putty. I also mashed the top "meat bag" piece against the light pole to form an indentation so that later when I'd glue it in place up there, it would seem to rest and squash against the pole. I used some scraps of thread to weave into the polyester mesh, for some sloppy tying-off, and to give the impression of one of the meat bags being suspended from the pole. (Why super-mutants are supposed to do this, I have no earthly idea.) Once everything had dried and cured, I applied some more glossy red wash, dry-brushed a few spots with fleshy or bone-white tones, then glued one lump onto the base, and another to be "hanging" from the light pole. The light pole is actually bent back slightly so that the center of weight is still over the center of the piece, since the plastic base doesn't serve terribly well as ballast.