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Jordan Peacock

Bones Supporter
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Jordan Peacock last won the day on December 28 2012

Jordan Peacock had the most liked content!

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About Jordan Peacock

  • Rank
    Godlike
  • Birthday 12/10/1970

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  • Website URL
    http://greywolf.critter.net

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Orlando, Florida, USA
  • Interests
    Sculpting, kitbashing, scenery/terrain, painting.

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  1. #1: At the very least, if you absolutely positively MUST put a pistol into the hand of a nun or a detective or a janitor, then please, PLEASE have it in a hand held away from the body. When a hand is away from the body, it's not too hard for me to trim out a gun and pretend that so-and-so is just holding a fist aloft (or if I'm very careful, or use a little green-stuff, I sometimes can even manage a POINTING gesture), or do a hand-swap to have a character holding a book or some other item that doesn't pose an immediate threat. When I run superheroic and horror games where I need "innocent bystanders," I can have any number of apparently UNARMED miniatures on the table -- and then as a GM narrate that, yes, this fellow has pulled out a GUN or a KNIFE -- and I won't get any pushback from the players. But if a mini is standing there, brandishing a gun or a sword, no matter how many times I say, "ignore the weapon! he doesn't really have one!" the players seem to have trouble un-seeing that particular detail. Toward that end, I could probably use a few more right and left hands holding non-weapon items. Bones would be nice, but I'd settle for paying the extra for pewter (I've done it before) if I could get a decent selection. Open hand (palm out, pointing, etc.), holding a book, holding a tool, holding a "scanner," holding a cell phone or other gizmo ... just any number of things that don't say, "SHOOT ME! I'M A THREAT!" from the get-go. #3: Ditto on this. As it so happens, I was just commenting on Facebook that we're in a "Kingmaker" campaign that involves lots of overland travel. The PCs acquired some riding horses, and the paladin is a long way off from acquiring his summonable warhorse. #77355 (Count Lorenth) is the only horse-mounted Bonesium mini I've seen so far, but it's kind of over-the-top for a mere "riding horse." (This is definitely a WAR-horse.) Sure, I could take Silverhorn and clip off the horn for a horse (as I've done a few times with #77029 AND #2064) but then I have to work from scratch to add the saddle and tack. I think the horse from #14252, #14253, #14255 (Khamsin Raider, Lancer, Archer) would make a great basic riding horse. (As for the rider ... well, I suppose anything would do, just as long as I can swap it out with another rider.) #14213 "Lady Devona" would be nice for a fancier option that should be fun to paint up. #4: Am I just mis-remembering, or at some point wasn't there a sneak preview of a Bonesium wagon with pumpkins in it? I think I might have seen a photo of a two-wheeled cart being pulled by a pig, in the company of some halflings, as some sort of "sneak preview" picture in greenstuff ... but I don't think I ever saw it actually come up as a stretch goal in the Kickstarter? (I guess it was just a goal we didn't reach?) Anyway, having a wagon full of PUMPKINS seems a little overly-specialized (unless the pumpkins are removable, in which case I'm fine with it), but even then, it would be something I could start converting from. I just ended up making a wagon this weekend from craft wood and hydrocal castings, and now I'm worried it'll break (in storage or in use). Nice, durable Bonesium would hold up a lot better.
  2. Death House in 3D Terraclips !

    Wowzers! I love seeing what's possible with a proper collection of those things. I regret that Terraclips showed up during a time when I was thoroughly in the middle of a sci-fi kick, and didn't see much use for cardboard dungeons and such. By the time my group rolled around to fantasy again, those things had already vanished. I've got a collection of the plastic clips (which I picked up on their own merits initially), but the only Terraclips set I was able to snag was the "Sewers" set a while back (since it was all that was LEFT). I've tried my hand at making some custom tiles with some Photoshoppery and mat board and hobby-knife-cutting, but it's pretty tedious to cut those notches for the clips. (More often I've found myself using the plastic clips with more conventional floor tiles just to string them together on a table, and to aid whenever I might have to "scroll" the layout to one side of the table or another.) One thing I discovered right away was that Terraclips are NOT ideal for cobbling something together on the fly, and perhaps that's why they didn't really catch on. There's too much digging around to find the right piece, and there just aren't enough of the pieces I want to do what I want for any given project. (Most of my homemade tiles have been additional large floor tiles.) Really, the only practical way to use them is to have a crafting project before the game, and have the level(s) assembled and off to one side of the table, ready to be plopped down in place when needed (or else leave it in place on the table and cover it with some scrap fabric for a "fog of war" and then reveal as appropriate). I don't see them as really working for *permanent* structures, since the end result really looks very much like the product of a construction set, what with all those tabs. However, I've been thinking that those tabs might look more at home for a sci-fi type setting. (It's actually why I initially got them, for a half-baked sci-fi project idea ... but I ended up using a bunch of Hirst Arts Castlemolds set pieces instead at the time.) I've got lots of mat board, plastic sheets, and also some vacu-formed texture sheets (from "Sci-Fi Supply") that are meant to represent instant "greebles" such as for the interior of a Space-Hulk or Aliens-style ship corridor system. I've pondered making some wall tiles out of those (and floor tiles out of sections of mat board with "grill" from the screen saved from a broken old screen door, plus whatever greebles I can cobble together), and using them for sci-fi layouts. The mix of T, corner, and straight connectors is what makes the Terraclips themselves particularly useful to me. (And the "T" pieces can also double as quickie bases for "stand-ups.") ... Anyway, if there's a dedicated build thread, can someone post the link? My search-fu is weak, it seems. I've got a few photos of hybrid projects I've done with a mix of the Sewer pack, and home-made tiles.
  3. A New Mushrooms on the Block

    I look at that mushroom and for some reason I think: "What? Me worry?" :B :D Great sculpting!
  4. Entrance to the Faerie Deeps

    Gorgeously nightmarish! I can't help but wonder what sorts of creepy fairy-tale-like adventures you might game-master. (And the PCs in such a setting? "PC" stands for Peculiar Creatures, I'm sure.) I love how I can definitely see elements of the pictures you showed as inspiration, but you've undeniably made it all your own.
  5. Kristof's Car(s)

    Neat! I'm curious -- is it possible to sand down surfaces of 3D prints like this, to try to minimize the "scan line" effect?
  6. 77408: Athak, Undead Knight

    Gorgeous NMM effects! I think it gives this guy a bit of an "anime villain" look. :)
  7. Putty for sculpting terrain?

    The main use I found for the black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt was back when I was doing "pony conversions" a long time back. I think there's another Reaper thread here somewhere, but basically I was taking some 2" tall PVC "My Little Pony" figures, and using some putty to convert them to resemble various conventional fantasy archetypes, along with a few "bits" for accessories. Some of them I repainted at least partially, but for most of them I wanted to keep the original "MLP" look, especially about the eyes. Well, the trouble with that is that if I'm ADDING putty to an already-painted figure, there are going to be recesses in the putty that I add where it would be hard to reach with a brush. With a putty that's light-colored or even grey, if I can't paint over those areas, the figure will end up having an unfinished look -- it will be obvious where I couldn't reach with the paint -- but if I DO try to probe a brush down there, it'll inevitably splash onto the bare plastic of the original PVC figure -- and probably deep enough that I can't just scrape it back off with a hobby knife. Therefore, I found it useful to apply the black-dyed putty. Any recessed unpainted areas would therefore be BLACK, and that's typically not a bad thing for a recessed, hard-to-reach area on a miniature. I don't usually work that way, however, so that was a very special case. The dye from the putty worked against me as well, as it would tend to dirty up the plastic of the PVC ponies, and require extra care to clean up. So despite its utility in that very SPECIFIC application, I doubt I'll ever buy the dyed Apoxie Sculpt again -- I'll just stick to the plain variety. It definitely takes detail from stamps. In addition to my makeshift "plastic clay" stamps, I've picked up a few odds-and-ends (usually parts from broken toys in thrift stores) that have interesting textures that if inversed can make interesting textures in putty. If I force the putty into a mold and allow it to cure in place (rather than just "stamping" the surface and then pulling the stamp off), the detail can be remarkable -- even to the point where if it's pressed against a perfectly smooth surface, the cured putty will take on a shiny, glossy sheen. Doing this tends to be harder on my "molds," though, when pulling them apart, so I routinely keep a "master" of my interesting textures, and periodically have to make a new "mold" out of the plastic clay. (The same would be true if I were making resin casts and so forth.) I haven't quite figured out the working time for the putty. I probably should work with it and time myself. I would say that after about an hour with the Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt, it's solidified enough that I can't really knead or sculpt it per se, but it's still pretty soft and easy cut or carved into. I've sometimes deliberately shaped the putty, then allowed it to PARTIALLY solidify, so that I could then bend and warp it while still keeping its texture and finer details. I can typically put putty into a press-mold and take the whole thing out after 4 hours or so while keeping its detail, but I wouldn't try sanding or drilling it until it's had a full day to cure. If I want to do "broken pavement" effects, I can do that after about 4 hours or so. I'll have to find some pictures of a Relic Knights figure I painted and custom-based for a friend, where I used gritty sandpaper to texture some putty, carved an "Eye of Ra" into it once it had cured in place a bit, then broke it in several parts and reassembled it later (slightly offsetting the various "fragments") so I could make the look of some sort of pseudo-Egyptian ruined floor. I've used air-dry clay at times as a "base" for a project. It works well as the rough interior build-up (that you then apply putty to before texturing and detailing the exterior) for a "master" item that you want to be durable and have some weight to it, that you might be making molds off of, but not so much if you're concerned about light weight.
  8. Last Dragon Inn Bar

    Wow! I love the patterning on the wood surfaces. I've got a bunch of Castlemolds (Hirst Arts) tavern castings I need to get around to making up into some sort of tavern scene, but I can't help but look enviously at THIS set as well (if for no other reason than that the plastic is likely to hold up better than Hydrocal ;) ).
  9. Wizkids Wagon set

    That makes a very nice vardo! Hmm. I'm wondering why the back door is chained up so thoroughly. I guess that little plank on the chains is available to paint in some sort of warning sign if applicable. :)
  10. Starship Generators

    Nice! I think the "industrial yellow" works especially nicely with the generator. I'll have to keep that in mind when I paint some more up. :)
  11. Neathyrmaul and Obsidian Crypt - thoughts?

    Wow. I can't help but think that if I had several of these, I could probably do the better part of a nifty plastic floor-tile dungeon. :) It would probably be easier to store (and require less maintenance/repair) than my Hirst Arts Castlemolds floor tiles. To address the "raised foot" issue: Perhaps there could be something fallen on the roof that he's positioning his leg on? Perhaps it could be the corpse of some other monster he's just defeated, carried up atop this rooftop for a snack, and he's already chowed down on it some. (Maybe this would be a good chance to use some "bitz" and just make some sort of bony rib cage, a hint of a spine, some random bony bits and gore, and whatever it was, he's eaten enough of it that it's no longer quite recognizable.) The fact that his own rib cage is rather airy and anything he devours by all rights should pop right back out again is probably of no great consequence because he's a ZOMBIE dragon, so he'll just keep trying anyway. Zombie dragon gonna zomb. Or something like that.
  12. Bones Sphinx

    Splendid! I love the vibrant colors, and I positively envy your ability to paint a miniature face. I don't think I would have imagined making the wings of a sphynx so colorful on my own, but in retrospect I suppose it is only in keeping with the look of how wings are portrayed on Egyptian amulets and so forth. Very nice! You've inspired me to imagine a sphynx differently now. :) I'm not sure what to make of the ruins. I guess it should be chalked up to "fantasy architecture," since it doesn't really evoke the capitals of any Egyptian columns I've seen for reference. I guess I'd be inclined to treat the surfaces as all relief, with the "arches" purely being a decorative element on the surface, rather than trying to suggest negative space with the black. I also think I would have gone with bland sandy colors for the base in general -- I probably would have interpreted the piles of broccoli-texture as SAND rather than creeping foliage. Your interpretation, however, is far more visually interesting and colorful than what I would have probably come up with. Now that this has finally shown up in the store, I hope I can find it at my FLGS. I was wary of getting it at the Kickstarter: the pricing and apparent size set off my suspicions that there would be no savings for getting it as part of the Kickstarter, and that I might as well play it safe and see how the actual model turns out once it hits the stores. So far, it looks like I had nothing to fear and I would have broken even either way. (Well, except that I really have no particular use for or interest in getting a manticore....) Thanks for the inspiration!
  13. Goremaw the Devourer (Bones Kickstarter 3)

    Thanks! One idea I was toying with, but was worried about whether I'd just ruin the work I've done so far, was to try adding some sort of "dribble" to the gaping horrific mouth. My first thought was to go with some hot glue, which cools to be whitish-to-semi-translucent, which MIGHT give something of the desired effect, and it "strings out" in a way that might work for me ... or might work AGAINST me, depending. Another thought was to get some sort of "water effects," and get some sort of really fine thread to needle into some of the fang tips, then dribble some "water effects" on it -- but I've never really tried anything like that before, so I'm not sure what material would work best, or what the best process is. (I imagine it might be something that would require multiple applications to get the "dribbles" up to the size I want, and to have distinct "gobs" versus just a uniform glaze along the thread.) Would you happen to know of any similar projects or "how-to" threads that I might look to for inspiration along those lines?
  14. Goremaw the Devourer (Bones Kickstarter 3)

    "Goremaw the Devourer" plastic gaming miniature from the Reaper Bones Kickstarter #3 (no SKU yet assigned), surrounded by a number of "investigator" miniatures from Fantasy Flight Games's "Mansions of Madness" board game and expansions. The terrain board is part of the "Forgotten City" theme from Secret Weapon Miniatures. All were painted in craft acrylics (Apple Barrel, Americana). I'm in the process of painting up Digital_Rampage's "Mansions of Madness" investigator and adversary miniatures, starting with just basic colors ("good enough for tabletop") and working my way up to adding more details, along with brush-writing names of the investigators on the bottoms of the bases. My hope is that by matching the illustrations as much as possible (and actually writing names on bases) it'll be easier to distinguish them when picking out minis and moving them during the game. (Otherwise, if you have a bunch of blobby gray miniatures in assorted poses that start to run into just variations on the same basics, it's easy to get mixed up about who's who.) "Mansions of Madness" does a nice job of quickly getting to the heart of a "Call of Cthulhu" adventure with the usual mix of running around looking for clues to help piece together the story, frantic combat against demented cultists or otherworldly monsters, and then time runs out and everything starts falling apart and right when you really, REALLY needed someone to finish that sealing ritual or just CLOSE THE DOOR ALREADY, someone goes mad. Although, it can get a mite bit perplexing at times: The worst offender is the "Escape from Innsmouth." It's rated as one of the more difficult scenarios, and for good reason. First off, you're trying to escape a town, but it's really just a town-decorated MAZE, and of course you have no clue even what direction you're supposed to be headed at first. There's a boat to escape on, and an agent who's investigating the town. The boat simply will not leave unless that agent is on board. You can follow his instructions and summon the boat and all that, but unless one of the PCs is personally with him, leading him BY THE HAND every step of the way, he hasn't enough of a sense of self-preservation to actually make it to the boat on his own. In our first playthrough, we had actually made it to the boat, wondering why the heck the agent wasn't there with us, as the mobs were burning down the city, the docks, EVERYTHING, and yet the idiot boat captain couldn't be bothered to actually leave the dock, while everything burned down around us. As several of my co-players have mentioned, if this were an RPG, at some point someone would have just blackjacked the guy and hit the "reverse" on the engines and pulled the boat out of the dock, never mind if that means the "investigation" has failed. (I mean, c'mon, the nutcases just burned down their own town.) We've actually played through that scenario multiple times now, and failed every single time because it turns out that there was YET ANOTHER THING that needed to be done before that suicidal agent would dare set foot on the boat. (He won't leave without every last Piece of Evidence that can be scoured from random places in the town, even if the room he's standing in and refusing to leave is CURRENTLY ON FIRE.) So, yeah, it has some issues. But mostly it's a blast. The tiles are very nicely drawn, and I could envision using all the elements in the game for an honest-to-goodness Call of Cthulhu adventure, only with an actual GM at the reins rather than an iPad and some board game rules. Also, the way they handle "damage" (both physical and mental) is rather novel, done via cards: at the very base of it, it's similar to "hit points," in that if you take too many hits, you're either Wounded (physical) or Insane (mental), and then take too many AGAIN, and you're simply out of the action. However, on top of that, each card may have a specific effect, penalizing your ability to take actions, how much you can carry, your ability to move quickly, etc., so it's not like certain "hit point" based games where you can keep getting shot or punched or stabbed multiple times and you're PERFECTLY FINE until that last shot/punch/stab happens to push you over the edge and suddenly - BANG - you're out. I keep thinking that I might like to use some variation on that for Savage Worlds in lieu of the existing wound penalty system (which is a cumulative -1 to EVERY roll you might make while you're wounded). Ahem. But I digress. This is about the MINIATURE, right? Right. Anyway, it's a big plastic nasty alien earthworm type of monster that looks like it would work nicely not only for Call of Cthulhu type adventures, but also as a smaller "Rattler" in Deadlands, some sort of alien adversary for my IMEF troopers to take on, a blighted dragonspawn horror for Iron Kingdoms, and a lot more. It's also fairly simple and solid construction for a large "Bonesium" model from Reaper (far less fiddly than, say, Khanjira the World-Breaker). Also, after playing through "Dry Rock Gulch" (Fallout 4, "Nuka World DLC"), and picking up a few Ertl "Cow Town" Wild West building facades, I find myself coming up with yet ANOTHER scenario idea.... As far as painting went, I basically painted the worm up with Graphite Gray, dry-brushed the "fleshy" areas with Dolphin Gray, dry-brushed the "hard shell" areas with Thicket Green, then went in and painted the "fleshy" areas with a solid application of Mocha, then washes of Burgundy, Barn Red, and Dyoxazine Purple. I went back and painted all the claws/barbs/horns Ivory, then Golden Yellow, then gave them a wash of Melted Chocolate, going back and touching up with Golden Yellow again in some of the areas where I thought they turned out a little too brown. I lined the edges of the claws/barbs/horns with Graphite Gray, and semi-dry-brushed the edges of the "shell" layers with Golden Yellow (which, when painted over the Thicket Green, resulted in a sort of dirty-yellow-to-greenish effect to my eyes); I often use some sort of "off-yellow" for highlighting green areas. The base was painted separately for the most part, done in a lighter Denim Gray as a base, then with alternating washes of Dirty Paint Cup Bottom Grit (not a real paint type -- I just got the goop off the bottom of the painting cup, that's all), dry-brushing with tan or shades of gray (or whatever light-ish mixed color I had on the palette that wasn't fully used up), or washing with various grey-ish, green-ish, or brown-ish grungy bits (or whatever dark-ish color I had on the palette that wasn't fully used up) until it just looked messy and earthy enough to suit my liking; I wanted the colors to tend toward neutral browns and grays, and the dirtier and less solid, the better. If I ever want to use this as an alien adversary for the IMEF troopers in a sci-fi setting, I suppose I could fairly easily pop the whole thing off of its integral base, and construct some "industrial wreckage" for it to be bursting out of instead (with bits of "granny grating," wires, guitar-string cable, and random techno-bits from the "bitz box" thrown in for good measure).
  15. Putty for sculpting terrain?

    To fill LARGE amounts of gap, of course, you'll probably want to build things up with foam board or whatever other -- presumably cheaper! -- materials you might have to fill space. When it comes to the detail work on the surface, I prefer to use two-part epoxy putties such as Magic Sculpt / Magic Sculp (WESCO), or Apoxie Sculpt (from AVES Studio) (with "creative spellings" as indicated). All three of these putties -- well, honestly, I'm not even sure if they're actually DIFFERENT from each other in any way. In basic form, they come in tubs with one being labeled "Part A" and the other being "Part B." One is a mid-tone grey, while the other is usually a grey-tan color -- though I've gotten varieties of Apoxie Sculpt that come with dyes mixed in with the grey-tan part. (Beware! Those dyes are POTENT, and can make quite a mess. Especially the black.) As near as I can tell "Magic Sculpt" and "Magic Sculp" come from the same manufacturer -- it's just at some point they decided to play with dropping the "t," and yet I can find suppliers who carry the stuff with one spelling about as much as the other. Not quite sure what the deal is there. Locally, I get Apoxie Sculpt from a company called "Reynolds Materials." I've also seen it in Amazon, but I prefer to support local suppliers when I can (because I'd rather my local suppliers not GO OUT OF BUSINESS and thus deny me the option to go aisle-browsing and to ask questions to store staff). Whether it's Magic Sculp(t) or Apoxie Sculpt, you mix the two parts together largely as you would with the green stuff, but it's much cheaper by the ounce. Once you apply a bit of putty, it's possible to smooth out the surface with a bit of water, and once it hardens you can file or sand it down. My preferred method, however, is to make texture stamps out of Japanese "plastic clay" (the same stuff as the pricier "Instant Mold" sticks), damp the stamps in water to serve as a cheap "release agent," and then stamp the surface of the putty with faux boulders, cracked pavement textures, or whatnot, in the process of obliterating any fingerprints I may have left while kneading the stuff. Then, I can go in with my tools and try to transform it into crumbling stone block ruins, the occasional fallen log, or whatever else it is I'm trying to suggest on a large base. The two-part epoxies are also a lot better for making shattered ruins. When hardened, they're a bit more solid and rigid than the green stuff can ever manage, so if I want to make, say, some broken pavement or maybe a broken statue or whatnot, I can sculpt it in the putty, let it fully harden, stick it in the freezer for a bit, then actually break it. I'm not sure I could manage the same thing with the green stuff. Actually, nowadays, I use the "grey stuff" routinely for custom basing and gap filling far more often than I use the green or brown stuff. For really FINE work (sculpting hands, faces, horns, tiny details such as leaves), the green or brown stuff is all-around superior (and with a little bit of "give" so it's less likely to break), but the grey stuff is far more cost-effective for larger and more solid structures.
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