Jordan Peacock

Bones Supporter
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Jordan Peacock last won the day on December 28 2012

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About Jordan Peacock

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  • Birthday 12/10/70

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    Orlando, Florida, USA
  • Interests
    Sculpting, kitbashing, scenery/terrain, painting.

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  1. Coolness. But I'm confused by the Dark Heaven Legends "NIC" (Not in Catalog?) thing. (Quoted from earlier in thread from Heisler:) So, if this is true, I call my store, and I say, "Hey, Reaper still makes Cockatrices #02631; would you order 4 packs of it for me? The catch is that since it's from the Dark Heaven line, it's Not In Catalog, so your distributor probably won't have it, and you'll need to contact Reaper directly at 940-484-MINI." And then I just hope the store WILL contact Reaper directly, and doesn't have some sort of shady arrangement whereby they can ONLY go through the distributor or risk getting dropped. Or am I just confused on that point? I mean, I've got my store's phone number, and I'm all ready to give a ring and fill in the facts for whoever's on the other end of the line, but I want to make sure I have my story straight. :)
  2. Thanks for the clarification. :) In light of all that... Is there any way I, as a Reaper fan, can help my friendly local game store to do a better job of getting Reaper minis, so I (and other Reaper fans) have an incentive to keep supporting our local brick-and-mortar store, vs. going straight to Reaper? I'm assuming/guessing/imagining here that it's within Reaper's business interests to have friendly local game stores carrying their products, right? Not that they'd *want* it all to become direct order? Or is there a deliberate business move that all DHL should be "direct order only"?
  3. I wish I could figure out a solution, but I confess, I really don't know the particulars of how manufacturers, distributors, stores, retail vs. wholesale, etc., all works. (I wasn't a business major.) Is there something simple I can do like tell my local store, "Call Reaper at such-and-such number, and they can get you set up?" Or would the store be paying the same price (plus shipping) that I would be, hence no point in enlisting the store as a middleman at that point? I guess if it were that easy, I'd wonder why a game store would even bother with a "distributor," so please pardon my ignorance/naivete. :/ I suppose it has to be something like, the Distributor orders a really, really big shipment of lots of minis from Reaper at a large enough amount to warrant getting at a steep discount, and then they have a warehouse full of the stuff, which they shuttle off to smaller stores (who don't have the warehouse space for a big enough order to warrant such a big discount), at which point they sell to the smaller stores with enough of a markup to make it worth their while ... but at enough of a discount that the store can still make some sort of profit when they sell it to the end customer at list price?
  4. Aha. Well, if it isn't available from the distributor, I suppose that'd have the same end result as it being "out of print" from the POV of ordering through my local game store. (I have no idea what distributor they use for game materials. Of course, they go through Diamond for comics, as what hobby store doesn't in the US? But I'm not sure where the minis come from.) Ack. I really want to support my "friendly local game store." When I first moved to the Orlando area, wow, twenty years ago, I was positively spoiled by just how many stores there were within driving distance carrying game supplies, miniatures, etc. Sci-Fi City was "Enterprise 1701" way back then, and my main interest was in picking up Warzone and Mutant Chronicles minis from Heartbreaker Hobbies & Games. "Coliseum of Comics" was a franchise that actually had several stores in the area, and it was the first place where I ran into Reaper miniatures. "Paladin Games & Tech" in Avalon Park was a weird hybrid store that had printer/copier supplies primarily for schools, but also had gaming supplies and tables on account of the owner's personal hobbies and interests. A friend of mine even opened up "Rhubarb Games" (and it got taken over and turned into the "Armadillo Game Shoppe" for a while). Campus Cards & Games had a big selection of Reaper along with Privateer Press and Games Workshop. And Cool Stuff Inc / Cool Stuff Games was a bit of a drive, but it was THE place to get Clix and Reaper on the cheap, plus a massive game table setup. Now, Cool Stuff has totally dropped miniatures gaming, unless it's collectible Clix or conventional board games. Campus Cards & Games is really just CARDS now. The Armadillo is long gone, Paladin Games & Tech closed out last year, and Coliseum of Comics is back to just comics (and pricey collectibles) now. There's a Games Workshop "boutique" store up in Winter Park (the "upscale" area), but I'm not going to find Reaper at a GW store. Sci-Fi City is all that's left, and even they had to downscale; they used to have half the store dedicated to gaming space, and two long aisles of Reaper minis. Now it's crammed into a little hole-in-the-wall spot next to a pet store with air-conditioning that struggles in the summertime, and a goodly amount of the stock is ancient and sun-faded with stickers and blisters cracking and falling off. (Seriously. Two days ago I was searching for 02631 on the pegboard, and I had to take a blister pack of pewter Frogmen and its contents to the front desk because the heat-aged plastic had simply POPPED OFF when I bumped into it while trying to read the labels of its neighbors, and the guy behind the desk had to staple the blister back on.) I figure that online sales through places like Miniature Market and FRP Games and such are probably killing the brick-and-mortar stores, and I feel guilty if I go there FIRST -- so I try to make a point of seeing if I can get stuff through my last remaining local game store if I can. But, hey, if I want Secret Weapon Miniatures Tablescapes -- no luck. Mostly I've been stopping by there and picking up Bones figures now and again -- a few starship terminals, several dumpsters and shipping crates and such, a few big plastic monsters for kit-bash projects and Iron Kingdoms proxies, and so forth. It's been a while since I've had to make a special order for anything. "Rhubarb Games" was pretty good at getting me special orders by going directly to the makers if necessary, so I could get all kinds of off-the-wall stuff. Sci-Fi City ... not so much, but when it's all you have left, what can you do? I hate how all the malls are becoming "ghost malls" (only the food court seems to keep most of them alive around here), book stores have been vanishing, etc. I feel like we're going to get to the point where there just won't BE any stores I can visit and browse any more. It'll all be online, mail order, putting my faith in the resolution and fidelity of whatever photos the online seller chooses to include, and my best guess at scale, and I'll need to wait and order a bunch at once in order to offset the shipping & handling. As it is, most of the time I'm just delving into my big boxes of Kickstarter Bones minis. I mean, I probably ought to have enough to last me a lifetime right there. There's no WAY I'm going to get them all painted. (The owner of the Armadillo Game Shoppe got absolutely LIVID any time anyone would mention Kickstarters, blaming them for cutting into his minis sales. He refused to stock Bones after the first Bones Kickstarter. Bad move, I think, though I confess that my huge Kickstarter boxes of minis have been lasting me an awful long time and sparing me quite a few trips to the game store when I want some random mini to kit-bash into a special player PC mini or whatever. I can't say there's any causality, but the Armadillo didn't stick around for THAT much longer afterward.) Re: Store Owners Lying: I sincerely doubt the guy was lying to me. I suspect it was a matter of confusion. I just don't see what the incentive would be.
  5. LIVE

    Wowzers. I think I'm more excited for the Dreadmere designs than I am for anything so far in the Core set. :D I *love* the aesthetic. Is there any backstory on the inspiration behind all of this? (E.g., are these designs done with any particular system/setting/campaign in mind? Or is there any particular region or time period that's serving as inspiration for the styles?)
  6. Hey, I'm running a really weird game at a convention, and for that I was in particular need of some cockatrices (plural), so I looked up in the Reaper store and found 02631 "Cockatrices." So, I called up my friendly local brick-and-mortar game store, Sci-Fi City (Orlando, FL) to see if I could put in a special order for four packs. I was told that, sure, okay, they could go ahead and put it in for me, but not to expect anything, because (paraphrased) "All those old pewter figures are out of print. Reaper's just going to plastic Bones now. So it might take a while, if we can get it at all." ... Okay, this kind of surprised me. After all, every now and again I see new pewter releases from Reaper. I had thought that Bones would be an OPTION (a nicely cost-effective one), but there would still be the pewter minis, particularly for more "niche" figures. (I mean, how many GMs are going to need 8 cockatrices in one go, really?) So what's the scoop? Did I miss something, and the pewter minis are being phased out? (I don't recall seeing a cockatrice in Bones as an alternative, or I would've ordered 8 of *those*. And it seems odd that the pewter minis would be "discontinued" -- another word the FLGS guy used -- if Bones alternatives don't exist for all those figures yet.) EDIT: I edited the title since it occurs to me that I could be spreading disinformation with a headline like the original. Sorry! That's not my intention.
  7. Ooo. Minis look nice, but what I want to know is what they'll do with the terrain. I loved the old plastic bulkheads. The cardboard sections didn't age so well, though (what with the cartoony colors, or the inevitable wear), but there are ways to get by and still make use of the original bulkheads for vertical supports and representation of ladders to get from level to level. (I.e., simply paint over overly-abused old cardboard floor pieces, or make new floor pieces made of "corrugated" plastic from yard signs, with "paneling" made of pieces of cardstock, and drops of Super Glue Gel standing in for rivets, with occasional patches of cross-stitch plastic grid and random bits for "greebles," etc. It's similar to what I did to refurbish my old, horribly abused Mordheim buildings.)
  8. Huh. I didn't know there was a pewter version of this. I look forward to the black-and-red scheme. So is she going to keep the sword, or are you going to go further along the 40K-ish route and give her some sort of gun or chain-weapon? (I've got a plastic trollslayer Sophie, and haven't known what to do with it, as most of my focus has been either steampunk-fantasy (Iron Kingdoms), retro-post-apocalyptic (Fallout), or generic sci-fi/cyberpunk, but now I'm starting to get ideas. Not likely going to DO anything with them, though, because I've got such a backlog of OTHER things to do first, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to have IDEAS. :) ) I look forward to seeing where you go with this!
  9. Live

    Well, that just gives me something to look forward to in the stores. Boy, I got a BUNCH of those storage trailers, dumpsters, and the sci-fi standing computer terminals when they finally showed up at Sci-Fi City (my last remaining local game/minis store). I figure that's really the strong point of Bones production: the minis that can be cheap enough in plastic that I don't feel too bad about getting several copies of them in the store (vs. all the fantasy hero types and dragons wherein if I got it in the Kickstarter, I'm unlikely to be a repeat customer for those particular figures later on).
  10. Wow! The gradual progression of dry-brushing is really effective at bringing out a natural-looking stone look. (Thanks for the blog link with the further details!) Has this ever come out in stores? I can imagine that if I could get this in pairs, it would make for a really nice progression (curved creepy spike-like "statues" on each side) leading up to a temple, sacrificial altar, extra-dimensional gateway, big boss fight location, etc.
  11. I'll second Knochensack's suggestion of the photographic example. I've actually built one of those bridges from the Hirst Arts Castlemolds bridge mold/kit, and it works pretty well for all but the most top-heavy and unwieldy of my minis (i.e., the sort who'd fall over anyway even on a flat surface if someone touches the table). In the example, note that while there's a curvature to the overall bridge, the walkway itself is actually flatter than the arch portrayed at the bottom of the bridge (at the expense of having much more length). Also, at the ends, the tiles level back out a bit -- then end with STEPS. Of course, minis aren't going to stand well on those steps at all. As with any terrain that has stairs or tiered hills, there are certain areas where minis just won't go well (without the help of extreme measures, specialized spacers, or a ball of putty) -- and this primarily works by just defining a small, sharp area where you just won't end a mini's movement (versus having a WIDE area that minis can't reliably stand on). Therefore, one possible fix would be to "re-pave" your bridge so the top is much more level, and terminates at steps at each end. That would render it more as a footbridge, rather than something a wagon might roll across, however. However, another approach would be to have some much shallower ramps to lead in at either end. If that poses problems with storage, you might make them as separate add-on pieces. If you're trying to make it a wood-plank area in the center, this might be a good opportunity to use "craft sticks" -- the sort you can find in various craft stores in large boxes (often as "popsicle sticks" that you'd have to clips the end off of; I've seen thinner, flat-ended versions sometimes, but those always cost more). You can get them to curve a bit by soaking them in water, then using clamps to hold them in place while they dry on a curved surface (such as the curved back of a hand-sander tool, in my case). Or, you could have the planks running cross-wise rather than length-wise, in which case they can stay straight.
  12. Doing nails on a dragon. Awesome. :D I love the gold-vs.-adamantium-black contrast for the main body!
  13. I actually shuddered when I saw this. :D You are a MASTER of nightmare fuel.
  14. Eek! Hey, how do you do those creepy underbites (on the mushroom and nearby tree)? It looks like the teeth are some sort of inserted element? (Toothpicks?)
  15. Wow. This is embarrassing, but I didn't notice this post back in 2014. :/ I'm figuring this is too little, too late, but I pretty much use Adobe Photoshop, a Calculator app, and a bit of searching around to find any hints of dimensions for signs. Traffic Signs: Stop signs have a fairly standard size, which is 750mm from side to side, which converts to 29.52756 inches. From there, I can get a good idea of what the paper sign should be, if I know what scale I want. For 32-34mm scale, 1:48 seems to be in the general ballpark. I've been able to get away with vehicles anywhere from 1:43 scale to 1:55 scale on the table with Chronoscope minis, just as long as I don't MIX those vehicles. (The difference between the wheel base of a 1:55 scale sports car and the same sports car in 1:43 starts to get noticeable.) A standing figure at should be able to see and shoot over the top of a sports car or sedan -- and that's BEFORE he has that extra elevation from a base. At 1:43, I start running into problems with that. On the other end, 1:55 cars start to look like they'd be awfully cramped for the average mini to ride in, but they still work at a glance as scatter terrain (just as, in the later Fallout FPS games, if you REALLY PAY ATTENTION, the roads are way too small, the sealed-off buildings are generally way too small, and so forth, but AT A GLANCE, it isn't really a problem -- it gets to be noticeable more when you start building settlements and start paying a lot more attention to the space you have to work with). For my work, I assume 1:48, so that gives me an on-paper width of around .62". Many places sell speed limit signs, but there seems to be less of a standard on those. (Please, feel free to tell me how wrong I am, if you know otherwise. It's the only way I learn.) I've seen places selling speed limit signs (I guess for posting on private property?) frequently are offered at either 18"x24" or 24"x30" in size. Assuming the bigger size, at 1:48 scale that means somewhere up to about .5" in width. While hunting around and looking for searches of "Fallout Street Sign" and such, I found a useful image repeated in a few places: It's an image from a mod on Nexusmods called "Street Signs Retexture," by "WorriedWalrus." ( ) I'm assuming that the pictures in this sample are at least roughly scaled to each other, so basically if I take this image and paste it onto a 300 dpi 8"x10.5" page in Photoshop, I can scale it until I can see that the stop sign roughly approximates .62" wide, since it's so conveniently in the upper-left-hand corner. Doing this results in speed limit signs that are a bit narrower than .5" wide, but I can work with that. The black background for this particular image is a bit of a toner-waster, so my next step would be to lasso each of these signs and cut and paste them against a plain paper backdrop. For Deadlands: Hell on Earth, I assume that a lot of this would work as well. As time has passed, HoE seems to be very like Fallout in a number of ways -- Whereas Fallout is "the future as envisioned from the 1950s, plus a nuclear war and a heavy dose of satire," Deadlands: Hell on Earth is kind of "the future as envisioned from the 1990s, plus a nuclear war, a dash of weird fantasy, and, oh yeah, a big dose of alternate history." I suppose the biggest differences of note would be that while in Fallout the big difference in the US flag is that it has gone back to the circle-of-stars version (with one star in the center) -- in Deadlands: Hell on Earth, the Civil War ended differently, with the USA and CSA as two separate entities, and thus their own flags. I don't know how that should pertain to road signs and such; that level of detail was never really brought up to my knowledge, so it probably doesn't really matter much. ;) Magazines: Now, if you want to take images of the magazines from in-game in order to have some street litter, base decor, or maybe something held in hand, a typical modern magazine is pretty close to standard printed page size -- that is, 8.5" wide and 11" tall (or actually a little smaller at 8 3/8" x 10 7/8"). So, if you get a few image samples of the magazines from Fallout 3, Fallout New Vegas, and Fallout 4, you should be able to shrink them down to somewhere around .20" wide. Visually, you could probably get away with 1/4" wide. My own examples have sometimes gone over that size, just because I had trouble with anything being recognizable on the surface of the magazine if shrunk down too small, and I wanted it to be visible. If I were decorating a magazine rack, and the interest is in just having a general clutter of magazines on the shelf and scattered about on the ground, I should probably stick to a more realistic size. (But then, hey, this IS the future -- and, apparently, a future in which magazines still exist -- so maybe magazines are just BIGGER in order to draw more attention? I never really paid much attention to how they sized up in-game, given how squishy in-game scale is.) License Plates: License plates seem to work out to around .25" wide at 1:48 scale, whether you're trying to do Deadlands: Hell on Earth or Fallout style license plates. Street Signs: If you don't have some particular model of street-corner street sign that you need to paste something on to, street signs don't seem to have any particular standard. Shopping around online, I can find street signs for sale as 24"x6" blade signs at the low end, up to 48"x9" at the high end (on one particular site). Going by rule of thumb, that tells me that the standard street sign that one sees at a street corner letting you know that it's "MAIN St" going one way, and "5th Ave" the other, is probably best depicted at about 1/2" wide and 1/8" tall, while a larger sign to go up with the stoplight would be 1" wide and 3/16" tall. Billboards & Posters: Billboards are however large you want them to be. Ditto for posters. It really depends more on the space you have available, or whether you have a model at the handy to paste a billboard, etc., onto.