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Jordan Peacock

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Jordan Peacock

  1. Kristof's Car(s)

    Neat! I'm curious -- is it possible to sand down surfaces of 3D prints like this, to try to minimize the "scan line" effect?
  2. 77408: Athak, Undead Knight

    Gorgeous NMM effects! I think it gives this guy a bit of an "anime villain" look. :)
  3. Putty for sculpting terrain?

    The main use I found for the black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt was back when I was doing "pony conversions" a long time back. I think there's another Reaper thread here somewhere, but basically I was taking some 2" tall PVC "My Little Pony" figures, and using some putty to convert them to resemble various conventional fantasy archetypes, along with a few "bits" for accessories. Some of them I repainted at least partially, but for most of them I wanted to keep the original "MLP" look, especially about the eyes. Well, the trouble with that is that if I'm ADDING putty to an already-painted figure, there are going to be recesses in the putty that I add where it would be hard to reach with a brush. With a putty that's light-colored or even grey, if I can't paint over those areas, the figure will end up having an unfinished look -- it will be obvious where I couldn't reach with the paint -- but if I DO try to probe a brush down there, it'll inevitably splash onto the bare plastic of the original PVC figure -- and probably deep enough that I can't just scrape it back off with a hobby knife. Therefore, I found it useful to apply the black-dyed putty. Any recessed unpainted areas would therefore be BLACK, and that's typically not a bad thing for a recessed, hard-to-reach area on a miniature. I don't usually work that way, however, so that was a very special case. The dye from the putty worked against me as well, as it would tend to dirty up the plastic of the PVC ponies, and require extra care to clean up. So despite its utility in that very SPECIFIC application, I doubt I'll ever buy the dyed Apoxie Sculpt again -- I'll just stick to the plain variety. It definitely takes detail from stamps. In addition to my makeshift "plastic clay" stamps, I've picked up a few odds-and-ends (usually parts from broken toys in thrift stores) that have interesting textures that if inversed can make interesting textures in putty. If I force the putty into a mold and allow it to cure in place (rather than just "stamping" the surface and then pulling the stamp off), the detail can be remarkable -- even to the point where if it's pressed against a perfectly smooth surface, the cured putty will take on a shiny, glossy sheen. Doing this tends to be harder on my "molds," though, when pulling them apart, so I routinely keep a "master" of my interesting textures, and periodically have to make a new "mold" out of the plastic clay. (The same would be true if I were making resin casts and so forth.) I haven't quite figured out the working time for the putty. I probably should work with it and time myself. I would say that after about an hour with the Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt, it's solidified enough that I can't really knead or sculpt it per se, but it's still pretty soft and easy cut or carved into. I've sometimes deliberately shaped the putty, then allowed it to PARTIALLY solidify, so that I could then bend and warp it while still keeping its texture and finer details. I can typically put putty into a press-mold and take the whole thing out after 4 hours or so while keeping its detail, but I wouldn't try sanding or drilling it until it's had a full day to cure. If I want to do "broken pavement" effects, I can do that after about 4 hours or so. I'll have to find some pictures of a Relic Knights figure I painted and custom-based for a friend, where I used gritty sandpaper to texture some putty, carved an "Eye of Ra" into it once it had cured in place a bit, then broke it in several parts and reassembled it later (slightly offsetting the various "fragments") so I could make the look of some sort of pseudo-Egyptian ruined floor. I've used air-dry clay at times as a "base" for a project. It works well as the rough interior build-up (that you then apply putty to before texturing and detailing the exterior) for a "master" item that you want to be durable and have some weight to it, that you might be making molds off of, but not so much if you're concerned about light weight.
  4. Last Dragon Inn Bar

    Wow! I love the patterning on the wood surfaces. I've got a bunch of Castlemolds (Hirst Arts) tavern castings I need to get around to making up into some sort of tavern scene, but I can't help but look enviously at THIS set as well (if for no other reason than that the plastic is likely to hold up better than Hydrocal ;) ).
  5. Wizkids Wagon set

    That makes a very nice vardo! Hmm. I'm wondering why the back door is chained up so thoroughly. I guess that little plank on the chains is available to paint in some sort of warning sign if applicable. :)
  6. Starship Generators

    Nice! I think the "industrial yellow" works especially nicely with the generator. I'll have to keep that in mind when I paint some more up. :)
  7. Goremaw the Devourer (Bones Kickstarter 3)

    "Goremaw the Devourer" plastic gaming miniature from the Reaper Bones Kickstarter #3 (no SKU yet assigned), surrounded by a number of "investigator" miniatures from Fantasy Flight Games's "Mansions of Madness" board game and expansions. The terrain board is part of the "Forgotten City" theme from Secret Weapon Miniatures. All were painted in craft acrylics (Apple Barrel, Americana). I'm in the process of painting up Digital_Rampage's "Mansions of Madness" investigator and adversary miniatures, starting with just basic colors ("good enough for tabletop") and working my way up to adding more details, along with brush-writing names of the investigators on the bottoms of the bases. My hope is that by matching the illustrations as much as possible (and actually writing names on bases) it'll be easier to distinguish them when picking out minis and moving them during the game. (Otherwise, if you have a bunch of blobby gray miniatures in assorted poses that start to run into just variations on the same basics, it's easy to get mixed up about who's who.) "Mansions of Madness" does a nice job of quickly getting to the heart of a "Call of Cthulhu" adventure with the usual mix of running around looking for clues to help piece together the story, frantic combat against demented cultists or otherworldly monsters, and then time runs out and everything starts falling apart and right when you really, REALLY needed someone to finish that sealing ritual or just CLOSE THE DOOR ALREADY, someone goes mad. Although, it can get a mite bit perplexing at times: The worst offender is the "Escape from Innsmouth." It's rated as one of the more difficult scenarios, and for good reason. First off, you're trying to escape a town, but it's really just a town-decorated MAZE, and of course you have no clue even what direction you're supposed to be headed at first. There's a boat to escape on, and an agent who's investigating the town. The boat simply will not leave unless that agent is on board. You can follow his instructions and summon the boat and all that, but unless one of the PCs is personally with him, leading him BY THE HAND every step of the way, he hasn't enough of a sense of self-preservation to actually make it to the boat on his own. In our first playthrough, we had actually made it to the boat, wondering why the heck the agent wasn't there with us, as the mobs were burning down the city, the docks, EVERYTHING, and yet the idiot boat captain couldn't be bothered to actually leave the dock, while everything burned down around us. As several of my co-players have mentioned, if this were an RPG, at some point someone would have just blackjacked the guy and hit the "reverse" on the engines and pulled the boat out of the dock, never mind if that means the "investigation" has failed. (I mean, c'mon, the nutcases just burned down their own town.) We've actually played through that scenario multiple times now, and failed every single time because it turns out that there was YET ANOTHER THING that needed to be done before that suicidal agent would dare set foot on the boat. (He won't leave without every last Piece of Evidence that can be scoured from random places in the town, even if the room he's standing in and refusing to leave is CURRENTLY ON FIRE.) So, yeah, it has some issues. But mostly it's a blast. The tiles are very nicely drawn, and I could envision using all the elements in the game for an honest-to-goodness Call of Cthulhu adventure, only with an actual GM at the reins rather than an iPad and some board game rules. Also, the way they handle "damage" (both physical and mental) is rather novel, done via cards: at the very base of it, it's similar to "hit points," in that if you take too many hits, you're either Wounded (physical) or Insane (mental), and then take too many AGAIN, and you're simply out of the action. However, on top of that, each card may have a specific effect, penalizing your ability to take actions, how much you can carry, your ability to move quickly, etc., so it's not like certain "hit point" based games where you can keep getting shot or punched or stabbed multiple times and you're PERFECTLY FINE until that last shot/punch/stab happens to push you over the edge and suddenly - BANG - you're out. I keep thinking that I might like to use some variation on that for Savage Worlds in lieu of the existing wound penalty system (which is a cumulative -1 to EVERY roll you might make while you're wounded). Ahem. But I digress. This is about the MINIATURE, right? Right. Anyway, it's a big plastic nasty alien earthworm type of monster that looks like it would work nicely not only for Call of Cthulhu type adventures, but also as a smaller "Rattler" in Deadlands, some sort of alien adversary for my IMEF troopers to take on, a blighted dragonspawn horror for Iron Kingdoms, and a lot more. It's also fairly simple and solid construction for a large "Bonesium" model from Reaper (far less fiddly than, say, Khanjira the World-Breaker). Also, after playing through "Dry Rock Gulch" (Fallout 4, "Nuka World DLC"), and picking up a few Ertl "Cow Town" Wild West building facades, I find myself coming up with yet ANOTHER scenario idea.... As far as painting went, I basically painted the worm up with Graphite Gray, dry-brushed the "fleshy" areas with Dolphin Gray, dry-brushed the "hard shell" areas with Thicket Green, then went in and painted the "fleshy" areas with a solid application of Mocha, then washes of Burgundy, Barn Red, and Dyoxazine Purple. I went back and painted all the claws/barbs/horns Ivory, then Golden Yellow, then gave them a wash of Melted Chocolate, going back and touching up with Golden Yellow again in some of the areas where I thought they turned out a little too brown. I lined the edges of the claws/barbs/horns with Graphite Gray, and semi-dry-brushed the edges of the "shell" layers with Golden Yellow (which, when painted over the Thicket Green, resulted in a sort of dirty-yellow-to-greenish effect to my eyes); I often use some sort of "off-yellow" for highlighting green areas. The base was painted separately for the most part, done in a lighter Denim Gray as a base, then with alternating washes of Dirty Paint Cup Bottom Grit (not a real paint type -- I just got the goop off the bottom of the painting cup, that's all), dry-brushing with tan or shades of gray (or whatever light-ish mixed color I had on the palette that wasn't fully used up), or washing with various grey-ish, green-ish, or brown-ish grungy bits (or whatever dark-ish color I had on the palette that wasn't fully used up) until it just looked messy and earthy enough to suit my liking; I wanted the colors to tend toward neutral browns and grays, and the dirtier and less solid, the better. If I ever want to use this as an alien adversary for the IMEF troopers in a sci-fi setting, I suppose I could fairly easily pop the whole thing off of its integral base, and construct some "industrial wreckage" for it to be bursting out of instead (with bits of "granny grating," wires, guitar-string cable, and random techno-bits from the "bitz box" thrown in for good measure).
  8. Neathyrmaul and Obsidian Crypt - thoughts?

    Wow. I can't help but think that if I had several of these, I could probably do the better part of a nifty plastic floor-tile dungeon. :) It would probably be easier to store (and require less maintenance/repair) than my Hirst Arts Castlemolds floor tiles. To address the "raised foot" issue: Perhaps there could be something fallen on the roof that he's positioning his leg on? Perhaps it could be the corpse of some other monster he's just defeated, carried up atop this rooftop for a snack, and he's already chowed down on it some. (Maybe this would be a good chance to use some "bitz" and just make some sort of bony rib cage, a hint of a spine, some random bony bits and gore, and whatever it was, he's eaten enough of it that it's no longer quite recognizable.) The fact that his own rib cage is rather airy and anything he devours by all rights should pop right back out again is probably of no great consequence because he's a ZOMBIE dragon, so he'll just keep trying anyway. Zombie dragon gonna zomb. Or something like that.
  9. Bones Sphinx

    Splendid! I love the vibrant colors, and I positively envy your ability to paint a miniature face. I don't think I would have imagined making the wings of a sphynx so colorful on my own, but in retrospect I suppose it is only in keeping with the look of how wings are portrayed on Egyptian amulets and so forth. Very nice! You've inspired me to imagine a sphynx differently now. :) I'm not sure what to make of the ruins. I guess it should be chalked up to "fantasy architecture," since it doesn't really evoke the capitals of any Egyptian columns I've seen for reference. I guess I'd be inclined to treat the surfaces as all relief, with the "arches" purely being a decorative element on the surface, rather than trying to suggest negative space with the black. I also think I would have gone with bland sandy colors for the base in general -- I probably would have interpreted the piles of broccoli-texture as SAND rather than creeping foliage. Your interpretation, however, is far more visually interesting and colorful than what I would have probably come up with. Now that this has finally shown up in the store, I hope I can find it at my FLGS. I was wary of getting it at the Kickstarter: the pricing and apparent size set off my suspicions that there would be no savings for getting it as part of the Kickstarter, and that I might as well play it safe and see how the actual model turns out once it hits the stores. So far, it looks like I had nothing to fear and I would have broken even either way. (Well, except that I really have no particular use for or interest in getting a manticore....) Thanks for the inspiration!
  10. Goremaw the Devourer (Bones Kickstarter 3)

    Thanks! One idea I was toying with, but was worried about whether I'd just ruin the work I've done so far, was to try adding some sort of "dribble" to the gaping horrific mouth. My first thought was to go with some hot glue, which cools to be whitish-to-semi-translucent, which MIGHT give something of the desired effect, and it "strings out" in a way that might work for me ... or might work AGAINST me, depending. Another thought was to get some sort of "water effects," and get some sort of really fine thread to needle into some of the fang tips, then dribble some "water effects" on it -- but I've never really tried anything like that before, so I'm not sure what material would work best, or what the best process is. (I imagine it might be something that would require multiple applications to get the "dribbles" up to the size I want, and to have distinct "gobs" versus just a uniform glaze along the thread.) Would you happen to know of any similar projects or "how-to" threads that I might look to for inspiration along those lines?
  11. Putty for sculpting terrain?

    To fill LARGE amounts of gap, of course, you'll probably want to build things up with foam board or whatever other -- presumably cheaper! -- materials you might have to fill space. When it comes to the detail work on the surface, I prefer to use two-part epoxy putties such as Magic Sculpt / Magic Sculp (WESCO), or Apoxie Sculpt (from AVES Studio) (with "creative spellings" as indicated). All three of these putties -- well, honestly, I'm not even sure if they're actually DIFFERENT from each other in any way. In basic form, they come in tubs with one being labeled "Part A" and the other being "Part B." One is a mid-tone grey, while the other is usually a grey-tan color -- though I've gotten varieties of Apoxie Sculpt that come with dyes mixed in with the grey-tan part. (Beware! Those dyes are POTENT, and can make quite a mess. Especially the black.) As near as I can tell "Magic Sculpt" and "Magic Sculp" come from the same manufacturer -- it's just at some point they decided to play with dropping the "t," and yet I can find suppliers who carry the stuff with one spelling about as much as the other. Not quite sure what the deal is there. Locally, I get Apoxie Sculpt from a company called "Reynolds Materials." I've also seen it in Amazon, but I prefer to support local suppliers when I can (because I'd rather my local suppliers not GO OUT OF BUSINESS and thus deny me the option to go aisle-browsing and to ask questions to store staff). Whether it's Magic Sculp(t) or Apoxie Sculpt, you mix the two parts together largely as you would with the green stuff, but it's much cheaper by the ounce. Once you apply a bit of putty, it's possible to smooth out the surface with a bit of water, and once it hardens you can file or sand it down. My preferred method, however, is to make texture stamps out of Japanese "plastic clay" (the same stuff as the pricier "Instant Mold" sticks), damp the stamps in water to serve as a cheap "release agent," and then stamp the surface of the putty with faux boulders, cracked pavement textures, or whatnot, in the process of obliterating any fingerprints I may have left while kneading the stuff. Then, I can go in with my tools and try to transform it into crumbling stone block ruins, the occasional fallen log, or whatever else it is I'm trying to suggest on a large base. The two-part epoxies are also a lot better for making shattered ruins. When hardened, they're a bit more solid and rigid than the green stuff can ever manage, so if I want to make, say, some broken pavement or maybe a broken statue or whatnot, I can sculpt it in the putty, let it fully harden, stick it in the freezer for a bit, then actually break it. I'm not sure I could manage the same thing with the green stuff. Actually, nowadays, I use the "grey stuff" routinely for custom basing and gap filling far more often than I use the green or brown stuff. For really FINE work (sculpting hands, faces, horns, tiny details such as leaves), the green or brown stuff is all-around superior (and with a little bit of "give" so it's less likely to break), but the grey stuff is far more cost-effective for larger and more solid structures.
  12. Delphyne & Ekhis / Little Red & BBW

    I'm working my way through painting up miniatures from the original Relic Knights kickstarter, and from a few assorted "grab bag" pieces I've picked up in the meantime. These pieces are "Delphyne" (the little girl) and "Ekhis" (the "big bad wolf"), who represent a "Questing Knight" (Delphyne) and "Cypher" (Ekhis) pair for the "Doctrine" faction (which is sort of a "magic high school" faction, though it has a few oddball models such as this one that I'm not sure quite fit the theme at all). From the color text (paraphrasing from memory) on the card: Ekhis: "Grrr." Delphyne: "Oh, don't FUSS! Now you look PRETTY!" Something just amuses me greatly about the idea of "Little Red Riding Hood" turning out way, WAY differently (because Little Red happens to be a mahou shoujo?) and she ends up with "Big Bad" as her pet (begrudgingly putting up with things like getting his fur braided and put up in pink ribbons and having big obnoxious bandages pasted onto every "ouchie"). Among the Relic Knights figures I've had to paint up, Delphyne actually has one of the better-defined faces, with a distinct dot for a nose, a big enough mouth that I can depict a toothy grin, and large enough eyes to add irises. Several of the "Doctrine" minis seem a bit more cartoony than minis from the other lines -- especially the "Novitiates," who look absurd, and have clunky clodhopper shoes more akin to something that Pinocchio might wear -- for better or worse. Here, I think it works. The background "cottage" piece is a plastic cast made by my friend Chris Stadler, using Hirst Arts Castlemolds. The cottage has "breakaway" walls that can be removed so that the remainder can represent a "destroyed" version of the building, and the roof can be removed to have access to place minis and furniture inside. I just helped with the painting. He also made the grass/hill terrain pieces depicted (with cut plastic for the grass templates, and "pink stuff" foam board for the hills). I'm painting up the "Noh Empire" and "Doctrine" minis for him. He got me some "Black Diamond" minis that I'll be painting up once I get these done -- they might make good adversaries/rivals for the IMEF, Nova Corp Mercs and/or Blackstar Privateers.
  13. Pathfinder Version 2

    Yeah, I figured that much, and wasn't meaning to imply otherwise. When I was "young" -- well, there definitely wasn't any Pathfinder around then, and jokes about the +1 Backscratcher predated it as well. The notion of "balance" seemed to entirely be, "Well, EVERYONE gets a chance to roll ridiculously high on the dice." And, oh, how amazing it is when you tell the players to roll up their characters at home, that it JUST SO HAPPENS that fully half the party consists of characters who rolled 00 on d100 and thus have psionic powers. And the Fighter of COURSE has 18/## Strength. Now, once the rolling was in the hands of the GM for things like treasure tables, such Amazing Coinkadinks to the great enrichment of the PCs tended to be less frequent. I have absolutely no idea how one determined what a "fair" encounter size was. Based on my limited experience, I have a feeling it really wasn't much of a consideration. Anyway, "easier monster design" could be nice. I tried running a 3rd edition World of Warcraft campaign (3rd party add-on material) for a bunch of players familiar with the online WoW game, and they wanted to go on a world tour. In the online game, when there's a particular monster type, you're going to keep encountering it all over the world, regardless of your level. Murlocks aren't just some petty thing that only bothers you at level 1 -- no, when you're level 50 or whatever, they're still popping up in the area you finally accessed (ARgleblargleblargle!) except that they're called "Firechucker Murlocks" and they're color-shifted orange, and now they breathe FIRE at you ... or whatever. So here I am, trying to level up a basic monster profile with hit dice AND slap on a fire attack, and I've got a player complaining that, "If it's a 10 HD monster, and the 2 HD version has a Reflex save of N, then this one's Reflex save should be X!" And I have to resist the urge to throw dice at him. Razzlefrazzlecomplicatedmonsterlevelingrules! But then, I suppose the simple solution would just be not to have any rules lawyers / card-counters / mathematical wizzes at the table. ;)
  14. Now I want to try making a bolt head / nut head like that, and glue it to a flat piece of card, and use some Japanese plastic clay (AKA "Instant Mold -- but cheaper!") to make a press-mold. I can see value in churning out a bunch of little green-stuff rivets/bolts for future steampunkery and "industrial" pieces. I approve of the "value-add" to the generators! I'd really like to see how you painted them up. Tech-wise, they seem to fit a very nice middle-space between "clunky tech" and "high tech." That is, there's enough mechanical-looking bits to it that I could justify painting it up rusty and dinged-up for a Fallout-type or Warhammer-40K-ish retro-futuristic industrial scene ... or I could see painting it for what passes for more glossy and futuristic these days by mostly painting it in sleek white and black, with some "glowy neon" accents (such as the recessed "corner" segments on the large round segment on one side of the generator that MIGHT be a huge wire coil, OR it could be some sort of fancy-schmancy micro-particle-accelerator). Adding a few bolts/nuts like that helps to nail down going in more of the "retro-futuristic" direction, which seems friendlier to any plans to add grunge and dings and rust effects and so forth. :)
  15. Pathfinder Version 2

    I've been playing Pathfinder lately, and in the abstract I can sympathize with some of the stated goals of the revamp. However, the big appeal for me for Pathfinder is that it's largely compatible with the huge glut of d20 material I accumulated back during the "OGL" boom back in the Aughts and somehow never got rid of. It's kind of nice to have a huge collection of already-written adventures, and the ability (at least theoretical) that even if Pathfinder institutes a few "tweaks," I could still run those same adventures largely as written. If they "overhaul" the system too much, that's going to go away as a selling point. I don't know if that's what they're going to do. I guess I might not really know for sure until August. In the meantime, I'm still playing Pathfinder on Fantasy Grounds, and I don't foresee shelling out lots of $$$ to retool all our Fantasy Grounds mechanisms to account for a slightly-but-significantly-changed system. Also, a friend of mine is starting up a "Kingmaker" campaign in a few weeks, so I guess I'll get a refresher on what it's like to play at an actual tabletop, too. I can only hypothesize. The stated desire to tackle the complicated tier of action types -- standard, move, full-round, immediate, free, swift, etc. -- and to simplify it ... yeah, I guess I can appreciate that. It's a little bit of a speed bump if I'm new to the system, or having to bounce between too many game systems on a regular basis to remember what sort of action is what. However, it really never struck me as a game-breaker in need of an overhaul per se. The desire to tackle the relationship between the need for PCs to accumulate newer and better arms and armor with higher pluses to hit and damage and protection in order to meet the challenge scale of encounters at higher levels? Okay, I'm all ears about that, but it could be good or bad. For one thing, for a long time we've made jokes about some player acquiring and getting excited about his shiny new +1 Backscratcher with its long and storied history of heroics ... and then selling it off without a second thought to Ye Olde Magik Pawne Shoppe as soon as he finds one with a *+2* bonus. Story-wise, it just seems kind of silly how magic items are so monetized and TRIVIAL in the Pathfinder universe -- even though the amounts of cash involved are enough that you could sell your +1 magic sword and BUY A NICE HOUSE, so the economy's really weird, and things get really messy as soon as a PC gets it into his head that maybe he should try raiding merchants for their vast stores of magic items and gold pieces rather than raiding dungeons. But I digress. On the other hand, we've been playing "Rise of the Runelords" online, and I've really had my face rubbed around in the meta-aspect of how encounter ratings at higher levels are based on the ASSUMPTION that PCs at a certain level will have acquired powerful combat-ready magic items of a certain power level. Once upon a time, when I was young and naive, when I managed to get some amulet or dagger with a nice shiny bonus to it, I imagined that it would make it all the easier to survive the next encounter with goblins. What I didn't realize was that we'd never see a goblin again, and instead it's up from there to orcs, bugbears, and so on, in a never-ending arms race -- and if I DON'T get those weapon upgrades, I'm going to fall behind. (And the GM has been fretting that the GM guidelines tell him, "At this point, the PCs should be at such-and-such level, and have thus-and-such GP worth of combat gear," and yet we aren't, and we don't, and apparently this campaign world offers us absolutely nothing in the way of "side-quests" we can go on to try to address this deficiency, so I'm rather NERVOUS about the next installment, considering how perilously close to TPK we keep getting.) So ... removing the arbitrary acquisition of +X weapons and armor from the combat difficulty equation? Sounds interesting. I have no idea how that's supposed to HAPPEN without getting terribly video-gamey about it ("Lo and behold, as a level 5 Warriordude, a +1 magic sword MATERIALIZES in your hand with level-up sparkles and fanfare!") but I'll be curious to find out. ... Now, one thing that concerns me a little more is this mention of the idea that Feats are now going to be a function of not merely your class, but also of your race -- er, I mean, "Ancestry." (Okay, seriously, I don't mind replacing the term "Race" with "Ancestry." It sounds less scary, and prompts me to be less picky when it's really a matter of SPECIES.) That sounds a little too much like what I thought was happening in 4th Edition, where, by virtue of being an Orc or Dwarf, you're just going to get these ANCESTRY-specific benefits at level 5 and 10 and 15 or whatever. I suppose that the INTENT is because they think, "Gee, isn't it terrible that your Ancestry is so important at character creation, but then it becomes less and less important as you increase in level as a hero?" But to that, I think ... WHY NOT? I mean, to me it seems entirely appropriate that when you start as a novice, factors beyond your character's control (such as the matter of his birth) are going to have a large impact on his starting connections, wealth, etc. However, as he distinguishes himself as a hero, it only makes sense that his choices in career and his personal accomplishments will come to be more prominent in defining him as a character. If anything, I think it's GREAT that as you increase in level, any two Dwarf Clerics or Half-Orc Fighters or Human Rogues will be less likely to be mirror-reflections of each other. But ... ah ... I've only heard some very, very vague things. I don't know where they're going with it. Just please, PLEASE, please, whatever happens ... let me still use the same minis! :D
  16. Otherworld Miniatures - Medusa

    I really like the "cool" shadow look to the white robes. Is the flagstone texture on the base custom work? (E.g., putty?)
  17. Blightfang

    Nice! I especially like the vivid corn-husk-green gradient to the wing membranes.
  18. The Space Hello Kitty looks FAB-U-LOUS! :D "In the grim future of Hello Kitty, there is only war." Those undead trooper conversions look pretty sweet, too. One thing I really admire, though, is how you took those "starship generators," and carefully made some bolt heads to go on bases to frame them. Did you find a supply of hex-cross-section plastic sprues? Or did you have to shave corners to get hexagon heads like that?
  19. Great idea with those letter beads! I see now that the letter pieces I was thinking of would be WAY TOO LARGE for this size of a building. Hey, by any chance do you have one of those old-style "label makers" around? I have one that I hardly ever use because the label-stuff has never been sufficiently sticky to adhere to much of anything without simply peeling itself off (since the thick plastic of the reel is curved and seems inclined to STAY that way, regardless of how flat the surface is that it's attached to). Another problem is that the letters it creates by stamping into the plastic tend to wobble up or down compared to the baseline, since it's hard to line up the tape JUST SO in the puncher. I've still used it for a bit of sign-making for buildings, and the "wobbly" vertical variance isn't necessarily out of keeping with the style of some signage I've tried doing for retro 1960s-ish buildings for Fallout. Of course, there's always the shortcut of just PRINTING something on paper or cardstock, to get instant billboards and such. Now I want to check out the local thrift store and just keep a watch out for random pieces of junk that for whatever reason have raised lettering as part of a plastic shell that I could perhaps shave off and force-fit into some sort of ruined signage. :D (Or, more likely, I'd use a bit of Instant Mold / Japanese "plastic clay" and make a temporary impression for a push-mold, press some epoxy putty into the indentation, and then have as many copies of the letter as I wish, minus having to Dremel or cut it off of a surface.) One time, I used a piece of plastic sprue from Games Workshop ... and cut out the sprue with "WORKSHOP" in raised letters on the back of it and turned that piece into a "workshop" sign. I suppose I could use the "GAMES" part of the sprue for something that's supposed to represent an arcade. A useful tool for creating high-tech ruins is what Froggy the Great calls "granny grating": plastic cross-stitch plastic, such as can be found in just about any craft store -- sometimes in different colors. It doesn't directly apply to the lettering angle, but it might serve as backing for a sign, or some other surface, and it's easily enough cut with scissors for an irregular "battle damage" look. If I see anything in the craft store that I think might be useful at 10mm scale, I'll try to take a picture to share. :)
  20. 77161 Ghost King

    Interesting! Here and I would have thought the thing going on with the base was just reflecting the overall dynamism of the figure. :D (Swoosh!) I mean, unless I'd really stopped and THOUGHT about it. I think I'd just gap-fill between the bottom of the base and a more conventional plastic base (as you have it pictured) and work with that, using some epoxy putty. Anyway, it looks awesome! :)
  21. 77161: Ghost King - Shelf of Shame WIP

    Wowzers! I liked it with just the rich gradient grays, but now the simulated light-casting makes this figure positively POP. The reddish tones to the highlights in the relatively shadowed areas really help to give a sense of heat -- as if this fellow is standing on a precipice over a fiery abyss. Very dramatic!
  22. For the front, the "furry" areas were so soft-edged that it was pretty much a non-issue: I just painted them "alligator green" like the rest. For the back, however, I used some putty to give him a tail and some thicker gator scales. (The results weren't all that fabulous, however, so I'm content with just having a photo of the FRONT of the figure. ;) ) Also, since my earlier post I've had the Pineapple-Pen song looping in my head, and I HAVE NOT MANAGED TO GET IT OUT OF MY HEAD YET. Argh! (I've also seen the Japanese Sesame Street version, because there are too many people who enjoy sharing strange things with the intent of tormenting me. ;) )
  23. I'm not sure how it'd fit the look (I don't quite have a solid grasp on exactly HOW large or small these buildings are), but to decorate my own ruined buildings, I've been using a few plastic letter-board sets I've picked up at the local craft store. (Every now and again, JoAnn Fabric offers up a 40-60% coupon on ONE item, and the store is on my way home from work. I figure I'm SUPPOSED to buy more than just the one thing ... but I'll just grab some oddball item, and wait until I get a "25% off your entire purchase" before I pick up anything else. ;) ) Anyway, in most stores it ends up being near the papercraft items section that they have some little display board and then sets of plastic letters (or complete words in fancy script -- but not necessarily very USEFUL words for my purposes) that you can put on the boards like a marquee. They come in different sizes, and I figure a few letters would work for some giant (short) company name or mysterious acronym (GENCO, ACME, whatever), with most of the letters still in place, but at least one letter broken loose and crashed into the ground, or precariously hanging at an angle. (It's also an excuse to add some accents of color.) Those "steel rods" sticking out of the walls and floor really add a lot of visual interest to the destroyed areas, and furthermore break up the artificiality of the original "break" lines, making it all look much more convincing. I've tried using twisted bits of sprue for a similar purpose for larger (~25-32mm scale) buildings, but ... eh ... the results vary. I think you really got it to work there. :) And I can sympathize about the uncertainty in which route to take. Buildings with a bit of "overgrowth" would make for a great opportunity for points of color to break up the concrete grey, but might not necessarily make sense for a particular scenario or setting. Anyway, it's looking great so far! :D I'm having fun watching how this is coming along.
  24. It's a small world after all! :D I used that very same bugbear model (#77231, "Rugg, Bugbear Leader") for a Gatorman conversion for a (recently concluded) Iron Kingdoms RPG campaign: I'm pretty sure I used a Warhammer Fantasy Ogre Kingdoms weapon arm to replace the right hand. The back banner pole is from Warhammer Fantasy Dwarves. The head is from Reaper #0263, "Shrend, Alligator Man." (I got maybe half a dozen copies of that model years ago as part of a clearance lot, originally intended for an Egyptian-themed fantasy campaign, but more recently found a new life for them as "Gatormen" for the Iron Kingdoms universe.) This became "Chief Rainmaker," Gatorman tribe chieftain -- and father to one of the PCs (and an occasionally appearing NPC who was sometimes pawned off to "special guest star" visiting players from out of town to take over as a temporary PC). The pointing hand just seemed perfect as saying, "Aha! This gator is giving COMMANDS!" ... Epiphany! I never realized until now that he is a KIT-BASHER! Amazing! :D
  25. Witch-hunter Gretel

    Fascinating! Actually, there's something about the styling and the painting that reminds me vaguely of some porcelain miniatures my grandma would have on display in the curio cabinet, once upon a time. The design and pose and magnificent, and your paint job really brings that out wonderfully! I am wondering: What is that roundish thing she's standing on? It looks from some angles like a log, perhaps, but from the front it looks more mechanical. Some bit of ruined steampunk machinery?