Jump to content


Jordan Peacock

Bones Supporter
  • Content count

    1383
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Jordan Peacock

  1. For a change, I'm actually getting to PLAY, rather than be the GM: one of my veteran players is taking over in order to run a Pathfinder RPG campaign -- the "Kingmaker" campaign - -while I take something of a break. However, I can't just take a break completely, so even though the GM has a bunch of pre-painted Pathfinder and D&D minis at the ready for the campaign, and is using printed battle maps, I have been focusing on kit-bashing and painting minis for the PCs (and eventually whatever companions and cohorts they pick up on the way). Recently, the adventurers acquired a wagon after defeating a bunch of bandits. It was a wagon in pretty sad shape, but they fixed it up, and hitched up a couple of horses "liberated" from the bandits. This has made it a lot easier to tend to their assigned task of exploring an area known as the "Greenbelt" -- hunting down monsters (or, in the case of the kobolds, making peace with them), and dealing with rampant banditry. From left to right (rear row):* Human Paladin Sir Greys (Reaper #77197, "Erick Paladin Initiate")* Elven Kineticist Selana Kelsa (Reaper #77036, "Devona Female Wizard")* Gnomish Rogue Lis (composite of old Mage Knight miniature pieces)* Grippli Oracle Chirp Meadowsong (Reaper #77165, "Hellakin Goregutter," with head swap from Reaper #77268, "Squog Warriors")* Kitsune Magus Yuri (Reaper #77473, "Kogo Male Kitsune")* Half-Orc Sorcerer Gruush (Mage Knight Minions #065 "Medicine Troll")Foreground:* Human Warden* [spell-less Ranger variant] Rook Greys (Reaper #77320, "Galadanoth Elf Sniper")The horses are a couple of plastic Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy Battle horses (presumably from some sort of Empire set). I had some "bitz boxes" out in the garage that I picked up at a game bazaar, including several horses -- either on sprues, or with badly-mangled partly assembled riders stuck to them with overly-caked glue. I tried assembling a few and "dismounting" a couple more. The two pictured are just two I randomly picked out for the picture. (I figured there wasn't much sense in just taking pictures of the horses, since none of them are Reaper; they all need saddles and such.) The wagon has wheels, cabinets, lanterns, keg, and crates/barrels of Hydrocal castings done with Hirst Arts Castlemolds. The rest of the wagon is made up of wooden craft sticks (a mix of "popsicle sticks" and "matchsticks"), plus a couple of plastic head-pieces that someone had trimmed off of some Warhammer Fantasy dwarven mining carts for some purpose, and a random plastic shield hung on the side to show the heraldry for "Erastil" (since at least two members of the party -- the Greys cousins -- are followers of Erastil). I used some epoxy putty to add a cushioned seat for the driver's bench. I hope to personalize the wagon more as the campaign goes along -- adding trophies, maybe even some more shields or banners with heraldry of the rest of the party, or perhaps even a top for the wagon (if we can afford it, and get it done somehow back at the trading post). I'm also working on some pieces to represent an adventurer campsite, but they need a little bit more work before I bother taking a photo. (I tried making some tents with paper, and some others with putty. Results were ... mixed.) I suppose that's another thing I could imagine being useful from Bones: an "adventurer tent" (maybe even make it hollow), a "bedroll," and some sort of campfire (in translucent yellow or orange?): bonus points if it has a suspended kettle or a spit over it. Beds and shelves are great for dungeons, but some scenes happen while the PCs are traveling and their camp gets ambushed by monsters out in the woods. Or maybe the PCs are the ones doing the ambushing! :)
  2. Jordan Peacock

    Kingmaker Exploration Party

    The campaign has progressed a bit. We've finished exploring the "Greenbelt," dealt with the bandit king known as the "Stag Lord," took over a bandit fort, and received a charter from our friendly local empire to start a little not-entirely-independent kingdom. (Wouldn't that mean this is a barony or a duchy or something like that, rather than a "kingdom"? Eh, what do I know about titles?) Sir Greys has since undergone a bit of a promotion. I still have never learned his first name (or whether he even has one), but the consensus of the group seems to be that he's the best choice for leader, so now he's "Lord Greys." In the meantime, I've put a little more work into the minis for the characters, and for their improved campaign gear. I got another copy of #77197 "Erick, Paladin Initiate" on sale, and decided to combine it with some Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy bits to make a riding version of the model. For the camp, Lord Greys now has his own pavilion (rather than a little pup tent), and a mini-shrine of Erastil to set up at camp for daily devotions. I also upgraded the cook-fire with a bigger pot (we have a wagon to carry these things). The pavilion was originally made of Sculpey on a crumpled foil core for an old campaign, but over time I've used some epoxy putty to touch it up, make repairs, and add details (such as the drapery folds) -- plus a couple of Warhammer "bits" such as a stag-head shield from a Bretonnian knight sprue, and a posted notice from the Flagellants set. The "shrine" is a Dwarf standard base with a spare Bretonnian helmet and another Flagellants post. The cook pot is a piece of scrap plastic from some random junk toy bit from the thrift store, a plastic "food item" from a Phantom Menace Tatooine play set, toothpicks, epoxy, and some Hirst Arts Castlemolds "bakeware" bits. The riding paladin conversion features a Bretonnian knight's horse in caparison, the greatsword swapped out for a spare lance from a Warhammer Fantasy Imperial Knights sprue, and a spare plastic "laurel" bit from an Imperial Militia sprue. And here's a bit more detail on the conversion process of #77197.
  3. I've got several Secret Weapon Miniatures bases in various sizes and styles (rounded lip, bevel, etc.). Nice detail, remarkably bubble-free, lightweight but solid resin, and easy to pin-drill. I'm also a fan of their durable plastic Tablescapes boards (which I've been trying to use to phase out some of my beat-up old home-made terrain tiles), though it's a shame that those got tied up in international legal limbo -- I was really hoping to see more.
  4. Jordan Peacock

    Barrow work in progress

    Nice! I've been pondering getting a GreenStuffWorld roller or two (I just can't settle on which one(s) I'd get the most use out of), but I've been looking at them for use with putty -- I hadn't even considered the possibilities for rolling them over foam to texturize it. What a neat effect! Thanks for sharing your work in progress. :)
  5. Jordan Peacock

    Gatormen and Bog Trogs from Widower's Wood

    I love it! I also admire the way you subtly worked in hints of the red/blue/purple designations.
  6. Jordan Peacock

    [77291] Bones Kraken

    Wow! Really nice gradients. :)
  7. Jordan Peacock

    Sci Fi city style bases

    Well, when you get down to that point, the big problem becomes that the shipping & handling costs for any supplier are going to become the big factor in cost for bases (unless you're shelling out for some seriously pricey bases). I don't happen to know of any good game stores in the vicinity of the Kingdom of the Dice Fairy, alas, so I can't point you to a local seller. (Not that it would necessarily help anyway. My LGS doesn't carry scenic bases, and won't order them for me, either, so I don't know that it's a common offering for miniatures stores.) Once upon a time, I would have recommended that you get a copy of "Sedition Wars." It was available on the cheap in a number of places. The minis are a royal headache to try to assemble, and suffer "melty-face" far worse than the worst of the Bones 1 Kickstarter examples, but it's a GREAT source for sci-fi plastic bases. (That, and the game tiles are kind of nice, if you need map tiles for a sci-fi horror scenario.) I still see it available for far less than I paid to get in on the Kickstarter (I still mourn my foolishness) but not at an amount that would be cost-effective for just TWO BASES. Dust Tactics bases are kind of nice, too, if you can get some figures on the cheap. The base diameter works out to around 30mm, and have a techno look, with rivets along the rim, and a diamond-plate pattern on the surface. It wouldn't be quite the "Infinity" look, but still suitable for sci-fi, IMHO. You might check with Warsenal (the proprietor and his laser cutter are actually somewhere on the north side of the Orlando, Florida urban area, despite the ".al" part of the web site name). In addition to carrying more conventional resin bases for Infinity, the site also carries a number of laser-cut acrylic and MDF bases. Clusters of bases come in as few as 5 bases. Yeah, that's not *2*, but at least it's not like ordering a pack of 10 or 20? (And anyway, when you're going for a really, really small order, shipping and handling is going to start dominating the overall cost.) (LONG RAMBLING ASIDE: The laser-cut bases are kind of neat. I got some by chance when I ordered a couple of the Warsen.al acrylic "junk box" packs. (It's really a BAG, not a box.) Every now and again, there will be an announcement on Facebook that there are some "junk boxes" available, and the MDF bags will sell out in seconds. (Or at least, the one time it popped up while I was actively in Facebook, even though I went straight to the site, they were all sold out before I could complete an order. The rest of the time ... yeah, it was already long gone anyway.) For whatever reason, the acrylic bags are easier to get before they sell out -- I've gotten two of them, and lucked out in that I got several laser-cut acrylic bases of assorted sizes, plus enough pieces to make some sci-fi holographic terminals. (I'll have to post pictures of that project some other time.) The trouble is that it takes a long while to get fulfilled (a month, in my case), and it's a GAMBLE: I mostly just get the junk boxes/bags because I LIKE getting random assortments of "bitz" on the cheap, and then figuring out what in the world I can do with them. I got the acrylic bits largely in the hope of getting some scraps of the "fluorescent" translucent plastic that is used for "holographic" and "illuminated" accents in the largely MDF-based scenery kits included on the site. I use those bits for much the same purpose in my own constructs. As it so happened, I did indeed get a bunch of them, but most folks would probably just see it as a bag o' plastic garbage.)
  8. Jordan Peacock

    Sci Fi city style bases

    If you were local, I could fix something up with putty and bits. But failing that, here are a few ideas: 1) Instant Mold + sci-fi toy + epoxy putty = quickie techno textures. "Instant Mold" is a re-branding of what's "plastic clay" over in Japan -- basically a clear plastic that has a very low melting temperature, so you can nuke a mug of water in the microwave for 2 minutes, dip a slab of the plastic in the near-boiling water, then mold it into silly shapes, or else (more practical our purposes) jam it against some interesting texture, stick it in the freezer for a while to let it cool, then pry it off and -- VOILA! Temporary press-mold. I sometimes grab junk toys (or pieces thereof) at the thrift store simply because SOMEWHERE on the toy is an interesting texture that I would like to replicate and incorporate into a decorative base or terrain feature. (E.g., a brick wall pattern on some toy building, some "diamond plate" on a construction-set toy, a faux wood-plank feature on the deck of a toy "pirate ship," some stylized leaf textures from a badly-painted knickknack, an interesting tiled-texture from an old "Aladdin" micro play set.) In theory, you could put a dab of putty on a regular base (or, lately, I've been using pennies for even smaller bases), dip your custom-made texture-mold in a cup of water (as a quickie "mold release") and then jam it into the putty to impress the texture. Now, the downside of this is that it generally works best for ORGANIC shapes (leaves, vines, broken stone, etc.) vs. "machined" shapes that demand to be orderly and perfectly flat. This is a bendable plastic, after all, so it may therefore result in a surface that's slightly curved due to warping. Having a thicker chunk of plastic behind your "mold" can help to reduce this a little (making your press-mold less bendy). Also, there may be a bit of tearing when pulling the push-mold back off the putty: therefore, for sharpest details, I tend to LEAVE the press-mold in place (putty, base, and all) to cure before I remove it later. 2) Look for interesting items you might have that could work as a texture-mold. For instance, the aforementioned Aladdin micro play set: It had a plastic piece that had a raised pattern that I think was supposed to represent some sort of Arabesque design in abstract ... but if I pressed it into some putty and let it sit there to cure, those raised lines became insets for the putty -- and the otherwise smooth surface of the plastic meant that the putty took on a smooth sheen once it cured, and the piece was removed. Hmm. Not the best photo to demonstrate (I should have relied more on just wash-and-dry-brush, as my attempt at detailing obliterated most of the DETAILS), but I DID use this technique for the mini base below: 3) Ever buy packaged food from your local grocery store deli that comes in a plastic clam-shell? Well, I have, sometimes -- and sometimes those black plastic clam-shell container bottoms have some interesting textured bases, and I've ended up washing them off and cutting them out in order to save them as "techno-greebles" for terrain-building. Sometimes it's a raised grid. Sometimes there are little ridges. I'm not even sure why it's anything other than a totally flat surface, but all I know is that the plastic cuts easily, it holds up to spray-painted base coating, and with a bit of a wash and dry-brush, I can bring out the details for what amounts to a bit of a "techno" look suitable for walls or floors. The above has a number of examples of "scavenged" textures: pieces from an incomplete (and now disassembled) "Toy Story" play set, some Hirst Arts castings, some "Tehnolog Platformer" panels, some "granny grating" (plastic cross-stitch grid), some wafer trays from a surplus store -- and also right toward the middle area -- in the room where the miniatures are congregated -- there was a hole in the "floor" that I filled in with a section of plastic from the bottom of a deli tray that had a diamond-pattern raised texture that worked well to represent some sort of grate flooring. 4) Look for things you can roll, too. I often use the handle of my hobby knife to roll-texture putty for an interesting raised pattern. I used it for the "rug" texture below. 5) Print, cut, and glue. Find an image of some interesting "techno-plate" design with lots of little panels, or a hex grid. Print it on cardstock. Cut out the tiny bits, and then glue them back onto a black base (trimming as necessary), but be sure to leave some gaps in between the "plates." A few tiny paper hexes, carefully arranged, can give a nice "hex tile" effect. Another possibility would be to get some thin plastic -- such as the clear plastic from a blister pack -- and carefully cut it into "hex" shapes with a hobby knife (e.g., have the clear plastic taped down over a printed "hex grid" pattern for a guide). Then, you can paint and glue down the hex tiles with enough of a gap that the black of the original plastic base underneath can show through, and trim off any part of the tiles that extend over the edge. I used to do that sort of thing with cardboard for some quickie "Star Wars space station" flooring (lots of random "panels" here and there) -- that unfortunately I gave away a long time ago and don't have a photo for show 'n' tell here. Have a thicker piece of cardboard (or plastic or what-have-you) that only covers PART of the base, and you could have yourself a split that represents one side being the sidewalk curb, and the other area is the pavement. (Many plastic bases already have a semi-rough surface that with a bit of dry-brushing in a slightly lighter-but-still-dark grey could pass for pavement anyway.) Want a can of soda sitting in the gutter? Chop a piece of sprue, and you've got a small cylinder. Want some newspapers on the sidewalk? Use actual paper. In fact, you could *print* it with whatever you want to be on the newspaper or magazine. I really went overboard with that sort of thing when I was doing bases and street scenery for zombie-apocalypse minis: I.e., in Photoshop I arranged a whole bunch of newspaper, magazine, book, sign, and packaging images I found online, so that I could make paper props to add to bases and scenery: the "No Loitering" and "Warning" signs, the caution stripe, the "crime scene" tape, the jumbo-sized "Zombie Survival Guide" manual, the discarded newspaper, the educational poster, and the Chick-Fil-A carry-out bag in the above. (The sidewalk/driveway consists of squares of 1.5"x1.5" pieces of cardboard tiled together, as originally I made these pieces for a HeroClix street battle zone. The building facade is liberated from a broken Hot Wheels City play-set I found in the thrift store.)
  9. Jordan Peacock

    Kingmaker Exploration Party

    Another shot of the PC minis for Chris Thesing's Kingmaker (Pathfinder RPG) campaign, this time with some campsite elements I made over the weekend. I have a number of painted paper tents I've put together (enough to house the entire party) but I decided to try my hand at making some tents and other equipment. Three of the tents are based on a plastic tent-like element I got as part of a model kit grab-bag years ago. I made a crude "Make-a-Mold" mold off of it, then made some Hydrocal castings, but those came out as pretty crude (lots of bubbles, and the dry bag of Hydrocal powder had picked up a bit too much Florida humidity in the garage before mixing), so I used some epoxy putty to enact repairs and to add "tent flaps" at each end, using some paintbrush handles to make indents to suggest folds and stress points where the frame would be supporting the tent at the corners. In the foreground is an experiment where I tried adding putty to a paper tent "form," but that was a near-disaster; the cardstock paper didn't hold up all that well to having the putty worked around it, and I ended up having to go back a few times to enact "repairs." I only ended up with 4 tents for 7 adventurers, but I might manage to churn out another 3 before next weekend's game. (If not, hey, I still have the paper ones.) I made a bedroll in the foreground under the assumption that my warden PC (spell-less ranger) is more likely to prefer camping under the stars if the weather permits. I used the textured handle of my hobby knife to roll over the putty in an attempt to texture it to suggest some sort of coarse fabric. The cook pot at the center uses Hirst Arts Castlemolds pieces for the pot, logs, and fire. I made the frame with toothpicks, and made the joints, pot handles, and stones lining the campfire with putty. Next to the bedroll is a leather-working area with a hide stretched on a frame (again, toothpicks). The hide is putty; the pail and bowl on the penny base are Hirst Arts Castlemolds casts. I was inspired by the leather-working stations in Skyrim, and I figured, hey, it's basically just some poles stuck in the ground, so it could be set up at any camp site without too much trouble. I also have a few penny-base props that might serve some game purpose. One has a lantern from a Games Workshop Fantasy Battle pack; the intent there is for if there's another game venturing into burrows or caves where my warden has to set down his lantern in order to free his hands to fire a bow; that's important to keep track of, for purposes of figuring out which areas are well-lit, dim, etc., for concealment penalties ... or, perish the thought, someone drops an area-effect spell that happens to include the area where the lantern was left untended. Similarly, I've got a couple of backpacks from #2638 "Adventuring Accessories." (A long time ago, I managed to just get the sprue that has the lute, tiny pouch, backpack, and loot sack on it.) My character's basic gear comes awfully close to pushing him into "encumbered" territory, especially if he should come across any worthwhile loot. Therefore, I keep track of what items are on his immediate person (worn, sheathed, in a quiver, in a belt-pouch, etc.) separate from what is in his backpack -- and if dire circumstances should arise where mobility is of the essence, he *could* simply drop the pack and free himself up to fight or run as needed. The marker could serve as a reminder of where that backpack was left, in the hopes that he might be able to go back for it -- but of course that could be complicated if someone drops a /fireball/ on the spot, or maybe a goblin swipes it and bolts off at full speed. Another useful item from the same sprue was a bag o' loot. I've got two of them in the picture, though they're largely obscured by our Mage Knight "gnome" conversion figure. The original was supposed to portray a bag filled with a platter, a goblet, a vase and some other assorted loot, and I painted it as such, but for the other I applied a few "pebbles" of putty to transform the contents into gourds, roots, and leafy vegetables -- provisions. And then, there's another odd item in the camp: I had a few of these odd plastic "bits" from a Warhammer Fantasy "Empire Militia" set, consisting of little plastic rabbits and birds that I suppose were meant to be suspended from some trooper's belt as snacks for the journey? Anyway, I built another rack and suspended the rabbit and one of the birds from it -- representing, perhaps, some game caught thanks to a successful Survival skill check, destined for the cook-pot once the warden gets around to gutting and gleaning them. Eventually (once I actually have one tent for each PC, at least), I hope to personalize things more. It might be nice to get a pavilion for the princess or for the knight (though we'd actually have to BUY one, as I think it's beyond my character's ability to craft from what's available). At the next game, I hope to poll the players to find out if their characters might have any sort of identifying symbol, emblem, coat of arms, etc., that I could use to decorate and personalize the tents.
  10. If you've managed to at least pin the pewter part, perhaps you could use a heated pin or needle to burn/melt a pinning hole into the Bones pelvis? (I'm just brainstorming here. I don't honestly know how that'd work with whatever surface area you have available.)
  11. Ooo. Crazy Idea: "The Masquerade." A swarm-like swirl of a multitude of masquerade-ball type masks (butterfly, feathered, bat-wing, crow-beak, "Punch" clown, comedy/tragedy, etc.). Maybe it's a ghost. Maybe it's a really fancy sort of eidolon summon. But one thing for sure: It's a PRIME candidate for kitbashing! Just chop off a mask, then pick some Bones figure, shave off the existing face, glue on the mask and -- VOILA! Another attendee for your Masquerade Ball adventure/encounter. Why have it be a "swarm" rather than just several masks on a sprue? Because some people just ARE NOT going to buy conversion packs. The next best thing is to create a Bones figure that's just bristling with conversion-part candidates (so that hobbyists like me buy it for just such a purpose), but it's still in a form that could theoretically be used for some sort of encounter. Toward this end, I wouldn't mind seeing a few more items in packs, if it could help to make the number of SKUs more manageable, and maybe even make the cost for individual items slightly more efficient. I confess, I have often bought a 3-pack of minis (whether Reaper or some other brand) primarily because of at least ONE miniature in the pack I really wanted, and the other two -- well, I /could use/ them -- and collectively it was worth the price to me. I don't know that I would need several copies of a "campfire/cook-fire" mini, but I'd probably need several bedrolls and tents, and any number of accessories (lanterns, torches, poles, boxes, sacks, pots, shovels, et al.) would be usable in multiples as well. Combine that cook-fire WITH 2 tents and 2 bedrolls and assorted props -- and if I want a larger camp site (for 4 or 6 members) I might just decide it's worth getting another pack, and I'll try to find something clever to do with the "extra" cook-fire pieces. (Put it with *4* of everything, and that's cool ... but if I had a party with 5 or 6 members ... hmm. Okay, if the price is right, I might still buy a second camp site pack anyway.) I might as well pay for a collection rather than just having to buy each item piecemeal.
  12. Jordan Peacock

    Gaslands terrain

    Beautiful work! :D Have you ever seen those Jada "Battle Machines" cars? (They're around 1:64 scale, so pretty close to "typical" Hot Wheels cars, and already have a bit of a "road warrior" theme going on -- though IMHO they're a little too "pretty" straight out of the box. :) ) I really like the look of the corrugated metal "scrap wall" barriers! (Well, hey, I like the look of ALL of it, but those just really jumped out at me.)
  13. I love the styling of the back of the ship, with the little ... well, what's the term for them? Bartizans? Bastions? Whatever it is those little "side-tower" structures are called. I've got more than enough Mega Bloks ships to last me a good while, but now I wish I could justify doing some sort of a conversion job to add fancy little details like this.
  14. Awesome! I'm curious about the big gob o' green up at the top of the corner: is that a mass of green-stuff putty that's fusing the corner? Or, is it some sort of green plasticene that's providing a more temporary bond? (Just curious that it's the one part that doesn't seem to be painted up like the rest of the production.) Also, great Mega-Mutant. :) Since I don't see a base, I suppose you position miniatures here by pinning the feet and just poking them into the foam that comprises the base/ground area? And I can't help but be curious about the rusty pickup in the background, the blue power-armor trooper, and what looks like a scrap-wall barrier. More Fallout-y goodness WIP perhaps? :) (Where is the blue trooper from?)
  15. Jordan Peacock

    Kingmaker Exploration Party

    I've got some of Mantic's "Dungeon Saga" terrain pieces: two sets of the doors, and two of the Furniture Pack. They're pretty nice, sturdy hard plastic, with good detail, and they seem to do well with flat surfaces staying flat (e.g., bookshelves, throne, cabinet) without visible warping compared to some other plastic furnishings. I'm not familiar with this Kickstarter, but if they keep up the same level of quality, that'd definitely be worth looking into. Thanks for the heads-up. :)
  16. Jordan Peacock

    Kingmaker Exploration Party

    Yes, actually, I've got a few casts of it. :) It's part of my grand plan for the camp. I still need to do some more work on the tents and props, though. (Probably this weekend.) There's also a pot from one of the Hirst Arts molds that I think might be a good starting point for a kettle, but it's very flat-bottomed, so I may either end up using some putty to round out the bottom before suspending it over the fire -- or I may just try making a whole kettle from putty or some other "bit." That might make it easier to add handles. I also plan to use Adventuring Accessories (#2638) to decorate the camp, and also to add a "leather-working station" (inspired by similar things in Skyrim) -- basically consisting of some sort of hide stretched on a pole frame -- to represent the area where my warden (AKA spell-less ranger) might be doing crafting work after hunting. (Aside: A "backpack marker" can be useful for more than just decoration, too. I tend toward building characters who try to maintain light encumbrance, but sometimes they pick up stuff that'll push them over lightly-encumbered and into penalties. When that happens, I keep separate tallies of weight for the character's encumbrance with and without a backpack. If a fight should break out, or some other circumstance where maximum mobility is essential, my character can DROP the pack, and with any luck he might be able to pick it back up once the fight is over with. Most of the time the GM seems content to let that be covered out of narrative, but when area-effect blasts and such start coming into play, it's probably more essential to mark precisely where that stash was left untended. A backpack piece mounted on a penny base seems to do the trick. After our last game where we were crawling around the dark in a mite-infested tunnel, I think I need to do the same with a lantern, so we can keep track of where the light source is, if it has to be set down so my character can have both hands free for a bow.) @Gargs: One possible factor in this could be that our GM deployed the "Background Skills" optional rule from Pathfinder Unchained. The short version is that it gives us a couple of extra skill points each level, but these can ONLY be used for a few skills that are now designated as "background" skills: Appraise, Craft (any), Handle Animal, Linguistics, Perform (any), Profession (any), and certain Knowledge areas. (You can still spend regular skill points on them as well.) Combine that with a presumed lack of conventional dungeons full of wealth to raid, and limits on what we can buy (if we get any money, we can put in orders at the trading post, but it's going to take a long time to fulfill), and it starts to look like crafting our own gear -- or repairing whatever we can scavenge -- is pretty appealing. (My own character is "Rook the Warden"; I had been talking about how I thought it was silly how most of the classes fit with archetypes of popular fantasy pretty easily, but the Ranger messes up the basic woodsman/frontiersman/outdoorsman archetype by arbitrarily throwing in spellcasting out of the blue. The GM found a 3rd-party book that introduced a "spell-less ranger" type, and I'm calling that a "warden" for the sake of brevity. Basically it gives up the spellcasting at higher levels in exchange for beefing up the animal companion a bit, and swaps out Spellcraft skill to gain Acrobatics instead. For background skills, I'm going for Craft: Leather and Profession: Tanning, under the theory that I'll try making leather and hide goods out of what monsters we clobber along the way, even though the tanning process traditionally should take several months ... but most of our adversaries so far have been BANDITS or BIG BUGS. Well, and mites. We ran into some kobolds, but we worked out a peace deal with them after rescuing one of their number from the mites.)
  17. Jordan Peacock

    Kingmaker Exploration Party

    Oh. Yeah. PHOTO. Riiiiiight. (Oops.)
  18. My latest wish: some Bones pieces for an Adventurers' Campsite. Yeah, I know, "Nolzur's" has a so-called "Adventurers' Campsite," and it's very pretty, but it's more like a vardo with props, rather than what a beginning group of heroes is likely to take with them as starting equipment. Why have this? Because some adventures don't take place in dungeons. Sometimes you're traveling overland, and you have to go through the ritual of assigning who's on watch at different parts of the night, and then the GM rolls and -- wouldn't you know it? Monsters attack while the guy with zero ranks in Perception and Wisdom as his dump stat was on watch. D'oh! This is something that could happen a number of times, so it might make sense to have some models to quickly put down to represent the "camp." Alternatively, it could well be the PCs who are doing the ambushing -- launching a surprise attack on some bandits or orcs or whatnot. Some tents and other props would be just as useful. I envision: * Pup Tent: Basic, roughly prism-shaped tent. Make it hollow and save some material. It would be nice if it's sculpted to have some texture and drapery so that it gives the impression of being made of cloth or hide, and actually hangs from supporting poles -- something a bit hard for me to do with just folding over a piece of paper and calling it a "tent." Keep it simple enough, and it might be usable for more modern settings. For bonus points, it might be nice to have a few "props" around the edge of the tent -- a lantern, a rolled tarp, a backpack, a closed sack -- but it'd be best if they're just on the fringe, rather than actually pressing against the tent. That way, if you get multiple tents and don't want EACH TENT to have exactly the same line-up of gear, you could simply take a hobby knife to it and trim off the lantern, tarp, whatever, without messing up the texturing of the tent itself. (And of course, such props could be found a home elsewhere.) * Cooking Fire: A pile of logs with a blazing fire atop it, surrounded by a ring of stones. For bonus points, have a spit suspended above it, or else a frame and a hanging kettle. For extra EXTRA bonus points, it'd be awesome if the flame were in translucent orange. (Or just make the whole thing translucent orange or yellow and I'll paint over what's NOT supposed to be a fire.) * Bedroll(s): Just a simple lumpy bedroll (textured), possibly with one corner pulled to show that it's layered and not everyone keeps these things all nice and neat. If that's too small a piece to justify having on its own, perhaps pair it as another "prop" with the Pup Tent, or have it in a pack of two. This could even be useful for "dungeon dressing," since those orc guards might not have proper beds, but still need to keep warm at night. * Wagon (Open, 4-Wheeled): The pig cart and the Dreadmere cart from Bones Kickstarter #4 are wonderful, and I simply must have them ... but I could also really use an open, self-standing, four-wheeled wagon. Oh, I can find "battle wagons" aplenty from various miniatures war games, but what I'd really like is just a simple open-backed wagon that could be pulled by one or two horses, for loading up all those tents and bedrolls and shovels and 50' lengths of rope and 10-foot-poles and umpteen days' worth of trail rations and other weighty necessities of adventuring. Yes, I could make one out of craft sticks, but it won't be as durable as one made out of Bonesium ... and I can't for the life of me manage to make decent wagon wheels with SPOKES. Bonus points if you include one or two separable horses to pull the thing. :)
  19. #1: At the very least, if you absolutely positively MUST put a pistol into the hand of a nun or a detective or a janitor, then please, PLEASE have it in a hand held away from the body. When a hand is away from the body, it's not too hard for me to trim out a gun and pretend that so-and-so is just holding a fist aloft (or if I'm very careful, or use a little green-stuff, I sometimes can even manage a POINTING gesture), or do a hand-swap to have a character holding a book or some other item that doesn't pose an immediate threat. When I run superheroic and horror games where I need "innocent bystanders," I can have any number of apparently UNARMED miniatures on the table -- and then as a GM narrate that, yes, this fellow has pulled out a GUN or a KNIFE -- and I won't get any pushback from the players. But if a mini is standing there, brandishing a gun or a sword, no matter how many times I say, "ignore the weapon! he doesn't really have one!" the players seem to have trouble un-seeing that particular detail. Toward that end, I could probably use a few more right and left hands holding non-weapon items. Bones would be nice, but I'd settle for paying the extra for pewter (I've done it before) if I could get a decent selection. Open hand (palm out, pointing, etc.), holding a book, holding a tool, holding a "scanner," holding a cell phone or other gizmo ... just any number of things that don't say, "SHOOT ME! I'M A THREAT!" from the get-go. #3: Ditto on this. As it so happens, I was just commenting on Facebook that we're in a "Kingmaker" campaign that involves lots of overland travel. The PCs acquired some riding horses, and the paladin is a long way off from acquiring his summonable warhorse. #77355 (Count Lorenth) is the only horse-mounted Bonesium mini I've seen so far, but it's kind of over-the-top for a mere "riding horse." (This is definitely a WAR-horse.) Sure, I could take Silverhorn and clip off the horn for a horse (as I've done a few times with #77029 AND #2064) but then I have to work from scratch to add the saddle and tack. I think the horse from #14252, #14253, #14255 (Khamsin Raider, Lancer, Archer) would make a great basic riding horse. (As for the rider ... well, I suppose anything would do, just as long as I can swap it out with another rider.) #14213 "Lady Devona" would be nice for a fancier option that should be fun to paint up. #4: Am I just mis-remembering, or at some point wasn't there a sneak preview of a Bonesium wagon with pumpkins in it? I think I might have seen a photo of a two-wheeled cart being pulled by a pig, in the company of some halflings, as some sort of "sneak preview" picture in greenstuff ... but I don't think I ever saw it actually come up as a stretch goal in the Kickstarter? (I guess it was just a goal we didn't reach?) Anyway, having a wagon full of PUMPKINS seems a little overly-specialized (unless the pumpkins are removable, in which case I'm fine with it), but even then, it would be something I could start converting from. I just ended up making a wagon this weekend from craft wood and hydrocal castings, and now I'm worried it'll break (in storage or in use). Nice, durable Bonesium would hold up a lot better.
  20. Jordan Peacock

    Death House in 3D Terraclips !

    Wowzers! I love seeing what's possible with a proper collection of those things. I regret that Terraclips showed up during a time when I was thoroughly in the middle of a sci-fi kick, and didn't see much use for cardboard dungeons and such. By the time my group rolled around to fantasy again, those things had already vanished. I've got a collection of the plastic clips (which I picked up on their own merits initially), but the only Terraclips set I was able to snag was the "Sewers" set a while back (since it was all that was LEFT). I've tried my hand at making some custom tiles with some Photoshoppery and mat board and hobby-knife-cutting, but it's pretty tedious to cut those notches for the clips. (More often I've found myself using the plastic clips with more conventional floor tiles just to string them together on a table, and to aid whenever I might have to "scroll" the layout to one side of the table or another.) One thing I discovered right away was that Terraclips are NOT ideal for cobbling something together on the fly, and perhaps that's why they didn't really catch on. There's too much digging around to find the right piece, and there just aren't enough of the pieces I want to do what I want for any given project. (Most of my homemade tiles have been additional large floor tiles.) Really, the only practical way to use them is to have a crafting project before the game, and have the level(s) assembled and off to one side of the table, ready to be plopped down in place when needed (or else leave it in place on the table and cover it with some scrap fabric for a "fog of war" and then reveal as appropriate). I don't see them as really working for *permanent* structures, since the end result really looks very much like the product of a construction set, what with all those tabs. However, I've been thinking that those tabs might look more at home for a sci-fi type setting. (It's actually why I initially got them, for a half-baked sci-fi project idea ... but I ended up using a bunch of Hirst Arts Castlemolds set pieces instead at the time.) I've got lots of mat board, plastic sheets, and also some vacu-formed texture sheets (from "Sci-Fi Supply") that are meant to represent instant "greebles" such as for the interior of a Space-Hulk or Aliens-style ship corridor system. I've pondered making some wall tiles out of those (and floor tiles out of sections of mat board with "grill" from the screen saved from a broken old screen door, plus whatever greebles I can cobble together), and using them for sci-fi layouts. The mix of T, corner, and straight connectors is what makes the Terraclips themselves particularly useful to me. (And the "T" pieces can also double as quickie bases for "stand-ups.") ... Anyway, if there's a dedicated build thread, can someone post the link? My search-fu is weak, it seems. I've got a few photos of hybrid projects I've done with a mix of the Sewer pack, and home-made tiles.
  21. Jordan Peacock

    New Mushrooms on the Block

    I look at that mushroom and for some reason I think: "What? Me worry?" :B :D Great sculpting!
  22. Jordan Peacock

    Entrance to the Faerie Deeps: The Guard Is Mounted...so to speak.

    Gorgeously nightmarish! I can't help but wonder what sorts of creepy fairy-tale-like adventures you might game-master. (And the PCs in such a setting? "PC" stands for Peculiar Creatures, I'm sure.) I love how I can definitely see elements of the pictures you showed as inspiration, but you've undeniably made it all your own.
  23. Jordan Peacock

    Kristof's Car(s)

    Neat! I'm curious -- is it possible to sand down surfaces of 3D prints like this, to try to minimize the "scan line" effect?
  24. Jordan Peacock

    77408: Athak, Undead Knight

    Gorgeous NMM effects! I think it gives this guy a bit of an "anime villain" look. :)
  25. Jordan Peacock

    Putty for sculpting terrain?

    The main use I found for the black-dyed Apoxie Sculpt was back when I was doing "pony conversions" a long time back. I think there's another Reaper thread here somewhere, but basically I was taking some 2" tall PVC "My Little Pony" figures, and using some putty to convert them to resemble various conventional fantasy archetypes, along with a few "bits" for accessories. Some of them I repainted at least partially, but for most of them I wanted to keep the original "MLP" look, especially about the eyes. Well, the trouble with that is that if I'm ADDING putty to an already-painted figure, there are going to be recesses in the putty that I add where it would be hard to reach with a brush. With a putty that's light-colored or even grey, if I can't paint over those areas, the figure will end up having an unfinished look -- it will be obvious where I couldn't reach with the paint -- but if I DO try to probe a brush down there, it'll inevitably splash onto the bare plastic of the original PVC figure -- and probably deep enough that I can't just scrape it back off with a hobby knife. Therefore, I found it useful to apply the black-dyed putty. Any recessed unpainted areas would therefore be BLACK, and that's typically not a bad thing for a recessed, hard-to-reach area on a miniature. I don't usually work that way, however, so that was a very special case. The dye from the putty worked against me as well, as it would tend to dirty up the plastic of the PVC ponies, and require extra care to clean up. So despite its utility in that very SPECIFIC application, I doubt I'll ever buy the dyed Apoxie Sculpt again -- I'll just stick to the plain variety. It definitely takes detail from stamps. In addition to my makeshift "plastic clay" stamps, I've picked up a few odds-and-ends (usually parts from broken toys in thrift stores) that have interesting textures that if inversed can make interesting textures in putty. If I force the putty into a mold and allow it to cure in place (rather than just "stamping" the surface and then pulling the stamp off), the detail can be remarkable -- even to the point where if it's pressed against a perfectly smooth surface, the cured putty will take on a shiny, glossy sheen. Doing this tends to be harder on my "molds," though, when pulling them apart, so I routinely keep a "master" of my interesting textures, and periodically have to make a new "mold" out of the plastic clay. (The same would be true if I were making resin casts and so forth.) I haven't quite figured out the working time for the putty. I probably should work with it and time myself. I would say that after about an hour with the Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt, it's solidified enough that I can't really knead or sculpt it per se, but it's still pretty soft and easy cut or carved into. I've sometimes deliberately shaped the putty, then allowed it to PARTIALLY solidify, so that I could then bend and warp it while still keeping its texture and finer details. I can typically put putty into a press-mold and take the whole thing out after 4 hours or so while keeping its detail, but I wouldn't try sanding or drilling it until it's had a full day to cure. If I want to do "broken pavement" effects, I can do that after about 4 hours or so. I'll have to find some pictures of a Relic Knights figure I painted and custom-based for a friend, where I used gritty sandpaper to texture some putty, carved an "Eye of Ra" into it once it had cured in place a bit, then broke it in several parts and reassembled it later (slightly offsetting the various "fragments") so I could make the look of some sort of pseudo-Egyptian ruined floor. I've used air-dry clay at times as a "base" for a project. It works well as the rough interior build-up (that you then apply putty to before texturing and detailing the exterior) for a "master" item that you want to be durable and have some weight to it, that you might be making molds off of, but not so much if you're concerned about light weight.
×