Pingo

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Pingo last won the day on April 8

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About Pingo

  • Rank
    Goadlike
  • Birthday 06/06/66

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Very nearly the same time zone as Reaper
  • Interests
    Science fiction, Doctor Who, Jim Henson, history, roleplaying games, fine art and art history, architecture, geology, paleontology, clothing and costume, random bits of whatever catches my fancy.

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  1. More work on bases, this time on the green ones. All of these greens were mixed from two colors: Hansa Yellow Opaque (a bright, slightly warmish lemon yellow) and Carbon Black. On the palette the mix sort of looks like blackened yellow, muddy, weird, unpromising, dull even. But put it on a mini and it's bright spring green. It's amazing. (Tom Meier reddish wolf in grass) Anyhow, I first put a medium mixed green on the bases over the browns and the rather murky green I had already. I used a small flat hog's bristle brush to begin to make that grassy texture I like to use. (RAFM grey wolf in grass) (RAFM black wolf in grass) (Tom Meier Grey wolf in grass) (Reaper grey wolf in grass) Then I simply added more Hansa Yellow Opaque to the mix to make a brighter, lighter green and added some of that to the bases. (Tom Meier reddish wolf on grass) (RAFM grey wolf on grass) (RAFM black wolf on grass) (Tom Meier grey wolf on grass) (Reaper grey wolf on grass) (Reaper Bones wolf familiar on grass)
  2. "Go away or I shall put daggers in your eyes and leave you for the crocodiles," -- One of my PCs on being bothered whilst engrossed in a book
  3. I quote my old WIP:
  4. Oil paint brands are all over the map. Winsor and Newton, believe it or not, I find to be middle-of-the-road mediocre-average oil paints. Utrecht aren't worth the bother. Some really good brands are: Holbein, Williamsburg, Old Holland, and Rembrandt. I think Maimeri are pretty good too, but I can't recall if I've used them much (have to,check my paint drawers). Schmincke paints seem to work well, but they add a lot of resins and stuff to their paints and I'm not quite comfortable with their "secret ingredients".
  5. I am extremely fortunate to not be in that position. I should cherish my close friends and relations more.
  6. Oil paints are a whole other ball of wax. To begin with, I would recommend caution getting oil paints anywhere near lead miniatures. I haven't heard of any incidents, but oil paints are acidic and acids can trigger lead rot. In addition, the presence of lead carbonate can trigger lead rot and lead carbonate is a white pigment found in oil paints (very rare these days, but still). To emphasize, I have not heard any actual report of such unfortunate interactions of materials. If you are using acrylics and oil paints on the same figure, paint with the acrylics first and go over them with the oils, not the other way around. An old rule of thumb in the fine arts is "fat over lean" (which refers to a simplification of a fairly sophisticated understanding of how different pigments interact with drying oils and how to layer them so they do not crack badly or otherwise cause problems). For people who paint with acrylics and oils together, what it means is oils always on top, never under acrylics. Acrylics painted over oils can flake or peel off later. Oil paint also ages very differently from acrylics. Acrylics will shrink v-e-r-y slowly (on the order of decades or centuries) but will not appreciably change color or transparency. Oil paint dries by oxidation in a complex process. In the early stages it expands by as much as 25% as it takes up oxygen molecules. Over time oil paints will darken, turn yellowish, and go semi-translucent as the refraction index of the oil changes with age. Over time a mixed media painting can change a lot as the different media age differently. If you're not too concerned about the long term, they can have some pretty effects.
  7. Frozen almonds get a texture I really like if they are eaten still frozen.
  8. My kids have reminded me that every single time someone on "Doctor Who" says they are "fine", they are decidedly not fine, are in fact probably already dead, and maybe also some kind of ghastly revenant coming for the soul and brain of the questioner. That said, we are fine.
  9. We are fine. ... I did wonder what all those helicopters were for this morning ...
  10. Fire department says no one outside the apartment building in question is in any danger. Reports say one dead body, some weird smells, and something which might be as benign as homemade kimchee but no one knows yet.
  11. ... Apparently there is a Level II Hazmat incident going on two blocks north of us. O.O
  12. I tend to get my pigments in 1- kilogram bags from Kremer Pigments, which is my other pilgrimage store, along with The Compleat Strategist, whenever I visit New York City. (In my day job I make my own paints.) Pigments are a raw ingredient. Unlike paints, which have many proprietary ingredients and can vary a great deal from manufacturer to manufacturer, pigments are more or less the same no matter the source. A number of fine art companies sell good quality dry pigments in smaller jars. I've used Gamblin, Schmincke, Sennelier, and Daniel Smith pigments. Dry pigments are a significant breathing and dust hazard and should be stored carefully and handled with proper protection, at the very least gloves, eye protection, and an OSHA-approved mask with a fine dust filter. They should be kept well away from children and food preparation and dining areas. Many pigments are hazardous in and of themselves. You could not pay me to have a sealed jar of any Cadmium color in the house. Know your ingredients.