Pingo

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Everything posted by Pingo

  1. Score! We have a winnah!
  2. I've started the Kraken, since I've gotten strong hints that it will be a useful figure soon. Here are the pieces primed with Reaper's Brown Liner: You may notice that not only is the shipwreck separate, but the Kraken itself is in two pieces, the body / tail and the mouth / head / tentacles. This is because yesterday my youngest pointed out that another Kraken I was assembling for a friend, parked briefly in a decorative candleholder, looked just like a giant plant monster. Sort of like this: Anyhow, I plan to paint the front end sort of plantlike and the back end sort of spiny lobsterlike and blue-tac them together when needed to be a Kraken. The first thing I did was throw some medium bright green on, because plants and algae. It's still a bit wet in these pictures, and so looks brighter and more opaque than it really is. I'm just slopping the paint on at this point, getting color more or less where I want it, to be refined and nuanced later. Next I added some pure Mars Red, thinned down a bit so it's not opaque, to make the body look more lobsterlike. I mixed the red with some Titanium White to make a dull pink and painted around the creature's mouth. I hope to eventually make the tentacle canopy look disturbingly flowerlike. I mixed a soft yellow-brownish very pale cream color and scumbled it almost dry onto the creature's belly and corresponding outside of its tentacle canopy. Then I started mixing some dull grey-browns and bringing up weathered wood lights on the shipwreck (Reaper Sea Hag, unfinished, for scale). I started painting the creature's tentacles green. I ran out of the color about halfway around. I mixed a new batch which was brighter and yellower, and here is one of my big painting principles: It doesn't matter if the colors don't match. I almost never paint with a single color, and I layer on so many different colors for highlights and shading that by the end they more or less match anyway. Not only don't I sweat color matching, I prefer to paint with variations of colors to get a richer effect than any single color can manage, no matter how pure. Anyway, here are the tentacles in progress. I didn't take any in-focus pix of the shipwreck, but I dry-brushed some of the same bright green on it for more algae. And here's one last shot of the tentacles with more of the yellower brighter green brought over the duller, darker one.
  3. Missed this, eh? ETA: Oh, and it comes with shipwreck scenery too.
  4. I must have missed the JNCO thing. I remember grunge. I remember being horrified because it was all I had ever worn in high school and I hated it. I could not believe anyone would voluntarily dress themselves in Goodwill castoffs. I would like the 1980s brocade vest dandy stuff to come back. I was kind of amused when everyone dressed like the Vampire Lestat.
  5. So there is this skirmish game, "Wild in the Streets" by Slow Death Games. Member FishNJeeps alerted me to it at Adepticon last month after I told him I was looking for minis of unarmed women in good street clothes for some friends. (Thanks, FishNJeeps!) I'm really grateful he did, because they had two sets of skirmishers that had a lot of promise. This figure is from the "Murder Cult Girls" set, which otherwise is a little goofy but has this one figure that really appealed to my friend. (I also got the "Goth" set which looks like it will prove mighty useful.) I just had to get rid of the big knife in her hand (the Goths are mostly unarmed, interestingly). I'm no expert with a knife, but I clipped and filed until ... well, until she had a sort of a clumsy mitt of a hand a little awkwardly held out. Hum. Not to worry because I had a brainstorm a little later. Here she is (left) primed with a thin layer of Titanium White and a wash of Burnt Umber. I've already started painting her skin in with mixes of Titanium White and Burnt Sienna with a little Yellow Oxide admixed because she is supposed to be Korean. With skin, at least for me, I add layers and add layers and it looks weird ... ... until it doesn't. I've painted a little transparent Quinacridone Crimson on her lips and her eyes are preternaturally blue and pupil-less on purpose. Her hair is only sketched in for the moment, but yes, it is supposed to be bubblegum pink. She is a wee bit of a Gothic Lolita. And then I worked out something about making her hand look okay. The character she represents has a green spider familiar. A big one, hand size. ... Hand size ... So I figured okay fine, I'm going to try to paint that lemon-shaped lump in her right hand as a big green spider. I'll work out how as I go along. To start with I painted it bright green. Phthalocyanine Green, my favorite green pigment, is completely transparent. It's great for color glazes but needs something opaque added to give it body. I decided to do a two step process to give it a really intense, glowing color. This is something I do a lot when I want a really eye-popping bright color: Paint a paler, solid version of the color underneath and then glaze over it with a more intense, transparent color. Here's my palette (Normally I use a wet palette but this was for a single quick effect): From left to right the colors are: Phthalo Green (looking super dark because of its transparency -- it's actually a brilliant peacock blue-green), Hansa Yellow Opaque (a brilliant warm yellow with only a little opacity, despite the name), and Titanium White. Above the Hansa Yellow is my mixed color with a ton of yellow, only a little green (it's a really strong green) and enough white to make it fairly opaque but not too washed out. Here's the first layer on her hand: Notice even "opaque" the color underneath shows through. I like this because it harmonizes the colors. There's something in fine art I've heard called "airlessness". It's when adjacent colors have nothing to do with each other, no reflections, no harmonics, just separate blocks of color. Maybe it's just a nice excuse for sloppiness, but I like colors bouncing off each other. Once the undergreen was dry I mixed a medium green with the yellow and no white in it, and glazed it lightly over the paler color. The under-color comes through and it's as close to a stained glass effect as regular paint can get. This is the state the figure was in for our first gaming session (Yeah, I'm slow.), and it was recognizable enough for the player to delightedly figure out that that was her spider. And yet there shall be more ...
  6. "DO NOT BRING YOUR BABBLE HERE."
  7. Really? Have you ever considered ... going Commando? Just freeforming colors and stuff?
  8. I've no idea if this is one of Hasslefree's originals or one of their tributes to media characters. At any rate, I'm painting her up as a slightly unnerving Russian bodyguard named Petra for a modern-day game. Here's my standard priming: A layer of thinned down Titanium White followed by a wash of thinned-down Burnt Umber. I love all the little details Kevin of Hasslefree puts into his sculpts. I especially love how plausibly backside-kicking his women warriors look. Here are a couple of the in-between states of painting up her skin (which is to say her head, since she's wearing gloves). I'm including them because they're messy, because sometimes people get worried when their painting doesn't look great at each step. Don't ever be worried that things are looking messy! Paint is made to smooth things over. This first image shows a single thin layer of Titanium White mixed with Burnt Sienna sketched in leaving the darkest shadows. This I find is when faces look their creepiest (Ignore the other two figures; they are for other WIPs). This shows some shading developed with thin, translucent layers mixed with more or less Burnt Sienna. Burnt Sienna is a warm orangeish brown which lightens into peachy tones which seem to work for generic white people's skin. There's also some Burnt Umber in the deepest shadows. Here I've washed a little Quinacridone Crimson on her cheeks (very thinned) and lips; slung some buff yellow mixed from Yellow (Iron) Oxide, Burnt Umber, and Titanium White on her hair; and done up pale, slightly staring eyes (Grey mixed from Ultramarine Blue, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White) with a sort of dramatic dark eyeliner I've sometimes seen used by pale blondes. The eyes look a little more disconcerting because I haven't put highlights in. She has no eyebrows because she's so fair. I also primed her guns black. I'm probably going to refine her features a little, especially around the hairline. But she's okay for now. I mixed up a blue for her jumpsuit, which I am trying to imply is shiny spandex. It's a mix of Phthalocyanine Blue, Burnt Umber, and a little Titanium White (more white for the highlights, natch). As with everything here, it's still rough. And there she is, a modern female mercenary begun ...
  9. Here's something I have been meaning to do for a while, since apparently I have had Tom Meier's Thunderbolt Mountain pack of three giant wolves (Thunderbolt Mountain #8560) and RAFM's three dire wolves so long I can't even remember when I got them or how on earth I got an RAFM product I can't seem to find mention of on the internet. I also nabbed a set of Reaper's #02830 Wolf Pack, which contains three smaller wolves, still impressively sized next to humans. Here they are, cleaned and glued to bases (all nine wolves were more prone to tipping over sideways than I like). Reaper, on one-inch fender washers: Thunderbolt Mountain, on 1.25-inch fender washers: RAFM, on 1.25-inch fender washers: And here they are together for a size comparison, from left to right: A Reaper wolf from the set, the Bones wolf from the Familiar Set #77176, Reaper's Willow Greenivy #03682, a Tom Meier giant wolf and an RAFM dire wolf. I would say the Reaper wolves are the most classically wolf-shaped. They are a bit large for wolves (see the picture above for scale). They are realistic and look well posed for various purposes. The two larger sets of wolves are almost the size of small ponies and look like they are begging for goblin riders. The Thunderbolt Mountain giant wolves have the elegant long, thin legs Tom Meier gives a lot of his creatures (I have also seen some astonishingly elegant wolfhounds and impossibly graceful insect-like horses from his hand). Here they look maybe almost a little too long and thin, but they are certainly beautifully sculpted, as are the ranks of fur sliding along the animals' forms. Their poses are realistic and expressive. The RAFM dire wolves, as large as the Thunderbolt Mountain ones, are a lot more cartoony. Their faces are kind of pushed-in and piggy and their anatomy doesn't make as much sense. They move oddly, although melodramatically. They definitely have a mood of menace to them. Something was a little off with the casting of the Thunderbolt Mountain wolves. Two of them had little pits along their spines, as though there were just not quite enough pewter in the mold or something. I filled them in with epoxy and tried to smooth it out to match the surface. At the moment the figures are glued but not yet primed. When I paint these, I am thinking of painting them mostly as realistic grey wolves, white arctic wolves, and perhaps some black wolves.
  10. I just realized I didn't leave the base white. I rinsed it with Burnt Umber, same as the figure, then painted Titanium White over that. You can see some of the brown underneath in the first photos. Yeah, werewolf games will do that ...
  11. This is a fresh start for a thread I feel I knocked off kilter. I feel it may be justified in that I've finally started actually painting the creature. This is Reaper's 14532: Aislinn, Shadow Tracker, a large werewolf (the base is a 40mm square) from the Koborlas faction in their Warlord game. I had a request from a player for a werewolf who can shift genders and appear gender ambiguous, and this seemed a good place to start. The sculpt is meant to be female, but it is lean and muscly and not over-bosomy. I filed it down somewhat and off we go. ... I don't seem to have done my usual practice of documenting the priming (a light coat of thinned Titanium White and a wash of Burnt Umber on the creature only, leaving the base white for snow), so here is the first layer. I decided to paint this one as a white wolf. I've observed that "white" wolves are actually a creamy light brown, so that's how I've painted this one. The color is mixed from Yellow (Iron) Oxide, Burnt Umber, a bit of Ultramarine Blue to tone down the brightness, and Titanium White. It came out a sort of dull buff, a good blonde color. The color is laid on thin and translucent. Where the Burnt Umber underneath shows the color shifts to a sort of bluish shadow. I indicated the nose, eyes, lips, and claws with Carbon Black. I don't use pure black much, but I needed a little facial indication to work from. Had a little blue on my palette, so I swished in some snow shadows. These are two mixes: Phthalo Blue with a tiny bit of Hansa Yellow Opaque and a great deal of Titanium White; and Ultramarine Blue and Titanium White.
  12. Egads, what an ambitious figure. You're a brave painter. I hope you're having as much fun with this as it looks.
  13. While I have been painting realistic wolves, I have also been working on some of the gorgeous giant wolfmen sculpted by Julie Guthrie for the Koborlas faction in Reaper's "Warlord" game. This is #14528, the subtly-named "Rageclaw Slayer", or the testosterone-poisoned werewolf a friend of mine requested. He's a big puppy; I include a copy of Reaper's 60164, Vampire Hunter, for scale: This is my standard priming of a thin layer of Titanium White followed by a thin wash of diluted Burnt Umber, using my favorite Golden Matte Fluid Acrylics. I left the base white in order to paint it as snow. Those who have been following my regular wolf painting thread will recognize the steps here. First I mixed a cool neutral grey from Burnt Sienna and Ultramarine Blue and Titanium White and painted it on his limbs, face, and belly: Then I mixed a darker version of the same grey and painted his back and tail: Then I mixed a cream-buff color from Burnt Sienna, Yellow Oxide, a tiny bit of Ultramarine Blue to take the orange edge off, and Titanium White, and went over his face, limbs, and belly again: And finally I took some pure Carbon Black (a color I rarely use except for special effects) and laid in his eyes, nose, lips, and claws (Although I just noticed I missed his toe claws. Oh, well, next time.). I also washed a little diluted black over his darker fur, most noticeable on the parts of the tail I had missed earlier: He still looks rough and terrible, especially up close, but I have to admit I am rather pleased with the overall color impression.
  14. In painting some other minis I had some pale blues mixed, so I added snow shadows. This is two colors: one Ultramarine Blue and Titanium White; the other Phthalocyanine Blue, a very small amount of Hansa Yellow Opaque, and Titanium White.
  15. I was painting soft blues on some other minis, so I slung some shadows on the snowy bases. These are blends of Ultramarine Blue and (lots of) Titanium White, and Phthalocyanine Blue with a touch of Hansa Yellow Opaque and (even more) Titanium White. Thunderbolt Mountain: RAFM: Reaper:
  16. You got it right, then.
  17. It is a humorously incongruous combination of writing styles. Part of each post is a typically chirpy discussion of the health and food values of breakfasting on eggs with the expected nutrition and recipe tips. The other part is a typical ominous buildup of the End of the World in diary form as seen in various low-key horror stories since time immemorial.
  18. That reminds me. Last night had dinner with College Kid, who is currently in the middle of a very cool paleontology class, and was told that the proper pronunciation of Ankylosaurus is "an-KAI-loh-sau-rus".
  19. Who owns the video gaming rights to D&D?
  20. There has been some talk on the boards of people's costumes, the wearing of them and how they change things and what people are working on. So I'd like to throw open the question, What is your costume? It can be any approach. Are you working on one now? Are you a fan who appreciates them but doesn't make them? Do you have a favorite costume? Do you have favorite memories of one? Do you like realism, or abstraction, history, sci fi, or fantasy? Does costuming connect to your gaming or other hobbies? When and where do you wear costumes? Are you making something for another person? Or for a doll maybe? What's your favorite one you've seen? What would you make if you had the materials and time? *** I'll start. I have a reproduction late-eighteenth century dress in a big floral print in shades of red and blue on white, complete with undergarments, big pockets, mitts, a ruffled cap, and cocked hat that I had been wearing to our neighborhood's annual Fourth of July parade. But I've been feeling weirder about it in the last few years since late eighteenth century dress has become political in a direction I am not. So I've found myself turning towards the struggles of the Suffragists a century ago. I've been reading old mail order catalogues from the First World War and checking out the eminently practical suits women wore at the time -- big pockets everywhere! At this point I have plans for nearly everything except a suit. I have undergear and petticoats, a blouse, nearly acceptable shoes, hats to be modified, a good pattern for spats, and a pageant-style banner edged with green and purple ribbon* ready to be painted front and back with "Votes for Women". At this point it would be nice to make a historically accurate suit, but looking at what I have, I think it would be a fairly convincing impression with any reasonably matched jacket and calf-length skirt. *Those are the colors of the English suffragists, not the US ones, but I'm okay with that.