nakos

Bones Supporter
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About nakos

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    Master
  • Birthday 01/01/76

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    Male
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    KC

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  1. Ok, after a week of not wanting to look at this or Khanjira went back to this and to start laying out the highlights and shadows. The original plan of using the purple to highlight the black isn't going to give me the look I want but it seems Blush Pink will. Later I'll do a color palette of Imperial Purple and Blush Pink. Oh, and I think I may have found a pretty decent color match of Drow Nipple Pink, somewhere between 9:1 and 8:1 Pink to Black. Photos of all the palettes later after I do the Purple and Pink and some more testing of the Drow Nipple Pink.
  2. ^What Doug said about the craft paints breaking down. Craft paint uses larger and fewer pigments, it's why it gets gritty or chalky when thinned, and you have to thin it for miniature painting. Even if it's for terrain, I'd go with the recommendation to go to a hobby store like Micheals or Hobby Lobby and get a better quality paint. In the long run, you'll save more money as the better quality paint will require less paint for the desired coverage.
  3. If you only wanted one shirt design it's pretty good, good ink and good wear. However, if you wanted more than one design there is no shipping break and many of the designs came from different shops.
  4. Along with the 42 other things. Thanks for keeping it in mind.
  5. Almost all images can be found here, http://www.reapermini.com/bones4 Ninja'd because I decided to add the link to Bones4 photos.
  6. I know things have been pretty hectic and such, but any word on volunteer applications?
  7. I'll join the card this year. Nakos/avatar pic/Thur-Sun.
  8. Ok, cause I didn't want to work on khanjira (I'm not liking the purple wash undercoat) and I've got to strip clear Kyphrixis so I can fix the too dark glaze and prime the ca so it's not shining through the glaze, I did some test mixes. The top image left to right: Alien Goo and Fireball Orange. 1:1/ 2:1/ 3:1/ 4:1/ 1:2/ Fireball Orange Second image left to right: Alien Goo and Solid Black. 1:1/ 1:2/ 3:2/ 2:1/ 3:1/ 4:1/ Alien Goo across the top Solid Black. Third image left to right: Alien Goo and Solid White. 4:1/ Alien Goo 5:1(Alien Goo and Solid Black) 1:1/ 1:2/ 1:3 Solid White across the top. Last image left to right: Alien Goo and Solid Blue. Alien Goo Solid Blue 1:1/ 1:2/ 2:1/ 3:1 1:1(1:2AG/FO&3:1AG/SBlue) 2:1(1:2AG/FO&3:1AG/SBlue)
  9. You do remember that you can mix some of the other colors to pull that back, right?
  10. I don't remember where I saw it, but there was another thread here on the forums about some spray varnishes causing the plasticizer to leach out of the PVC through the paint. That could be your issue here.
  11. Glued together the dragons and or a second layer of black on both. I think I shouldn't have out the second layer of black on clear Kyphrixis, by the time I get to highlighting the black with the purple it'll probably be to opaque. Yeah, trying to do a clear takes more planning than I thought. I'll try to clean it up selectively with simple green or isopropyl. Put two layers of the imperial purple on the wings. The plan right now is to highlight each color worth the next color down since each is a logical progression. Next was more base work, drybrush with cavern then cavern/stone edge. I wanted to add some black specks and remembered a tip about flicking the brush.
  12. Pure Black doesn't have a hue. You can see it in use on my Rainbow Dragon WIP. And I'm pretty sure the Coal Black doesn't have any hues but you can only get that in the Holiday Paint set and there's no word if that will be coming back out this year. Also, Reaper's black primer is hueless.
  13. Ok, remembered that a purple wash was suggested for the brown bits so I did that. Tomorrow I'll wetbrush it with DF's olive drybrush to bring it back up. This thing is two steps back to go one step forward.
  14. Used Reaper's black primer to prime the opaque Kyphrixis and dullcoat for the clear Kyphrixis. Basecoated opaque's scales with pure black thinned just a bit then thinned it way down to a glaze/ink and basecoated clear's scales. Primed the bases with DF's grey drybrush, wetbrushed with DF's cavern stone, heavy drybrush of DF's cavern and stone edge 50:50ish, and finally used SW's stone wash. SW's stone wash has more of a green/brown tint than grey. I think it'll contrast nicely with the black and purple.