unidentifiable

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About unidentifiable

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  • Birthday 05/20/87

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  1. The title had me thinking you were painting apples.
  2. I'm not sure how set on your plans you are, but there's a great set of plans for a "Gaming Dining Table" on Wood Whisperer that I'm dying to try. The catch is that it's $100USD for the plans, but comes with 10+ hours of instructional video. Frankly I'm considering it because it's the most professional-looking table going. Very close to the GeekChic "Emmisary". https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/gaming-table/ As well, here's a ton of relevant links from Reddit (also when you're done, post all your pics on /r/woodworking). https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/36wvmy/made_a_gaming_table_with_my_dad_xpost_from_rdnd/ https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2xlkcj/i_built_a_board_game_table_first_project_and_i_am/ https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2hki9n/my_custom_game_table_inspired_by_geekchic/ https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2gv3zh/diy_board_game_table_xpost_rboardgames/ Also, questions: Where exactly does one pick up that much hemlock for so cheap? "In a car park" seems like the most unlikely place to find a hardwood dealer...asking because I am also Canadian and now curious about street-peddling hardwood salesmen. (also your pics are all sideways)
  3. What colors did you use for the wing's...flappy bits? Asking because he's currently staring at me on my work bench. I just glued him up so I need to gap fill and then lay down some base paints, and I really like the orange/blue contrast you've come up with, and it looks simple enough to be achievable at my skill level. As an aside, I dig the Wrought Iron on the rocks. I saw another post (also yours?) which called it out as amazing for stone, and photo evidence to prove it. So I ran to a Walmart and lo, it's just as amazing in person. Looks like at least a quick drybrush on the scales too :P
  4. Thermal printing is the devil. There's no ink, so any friction against the surface causes the paper to re-activate and smear the writing, or cold temperatures which will just cause them to fade. I have to scan receipts from the store these days because otherwise they will literally just fade to nothing within 1-2 weeks of being in your wallet. /rant Can you print some Avery labels of your own and stick them on? Giant pain in the posterior, but at least you don't have to try to make your handwriting neat and tidy for 50+ bottles...
  5. Is there an anticpated retail price for Ma'aldrakar? According to the Pledge Manager, shipping alone on Ma'al to Soviet Canuckistan is going to cost $45USD. Add the exchange rate, tax, and border handling, and he totals to $160CAD. If he is going to retail for ~$100-$120 USD, I'm better off to wait. If he's going to retail for much more than that, well, I don't need him that badly.
  6. No Bones 3 for me I think. The backlog is too large, and I get murdered between shipping, exchange rates, and tax. Essentially, everything is <price>*2 because of those factors. I am watching the KS with mild interest though. I've put the following on my wishlist: - Marthrangul - Mouslings - Kyra & Lavarath - Paint Set B If I put them all into the pledge calculator, they tally up to $71. Add on $20 for shipping = $90 USD. Convert to CAD = $115. Add 5% tax = $120 CAD for 12 paints, 2 "epic" minis, and 8 mouslings. That's way too much money. Considering I have about 250+ minis still to paint from Bones 1 and 2, adding 10 more at a price of $12 each is steep. Even if you strip out the paints and say 10 minis for $10 each, it's still crazy. Reaper offers free shipping over $35 to Canada. I'm better off waiting for retail prices and paying $0 shipping. Mouslings will probably retail for $10-$15 (not much KS discount on those IMO, I find it hard to believe Reaps would charge more than $2 for a "small"-sized mini), the paints are $3.50 each = $40 US, and Kyra will probably retail for ~$35-$50. So I'd pay $85-$100 USD. Still, Reaper runs a fun Kickstarter and I'm enjoying the ride even if I'm not on board this time :)
  7. Space Marines have taught me that <metalColor> on <matteColor> looks pretty amazing. Excepting yellow, which only really works with silver.
  8. That looks super! If you're open to mild criticism, the only thing that I'd suggest is to thin your layers a bit more. The transition between the colors is quite stark, and if you thin the paint a bit more they will blend together much more nicely. It's more obvious on his back than anywhere else. You might need to do 2-3 passes, but the result is that you won't be able to see where one color stops and the next begins (or at least it will be less apparent). I'm guilty of this myself; most times I just want to finish a mini and can't be bothered. Most times you can't even tell until you have a camera pointed at it. Regardless, this guy looks great and is certainly worthy of being shown off. Bulging muscles abound.
  9. Whatever you use don't use Gorilla Glue. It expands 200-400% before it hardens and is designed for porous surfaces like wood. It also dries puke-yellow. Goop would be my bet. It will bond stone to plastic and stone to metal just as fine. It does not expand, and is clear rather than colored. The only drawback is that it takes a whole day to dry, and as the name suggests, it's thick as mollasses. e6000 is "Goop-lite" made for crafts...my verdict is "may as well use goop". Epoxy is the next thing I'd try. Epoxy is currently holding my stainless steel sink to the underside of my granite countertop, so you know it doesn't f*** around. Just move fast, because it will dry in about 2 minutes, and ruin everything that it comes into contact with (pants, shirts, floors, tables...).
  10. If it's super-super bothering you, there's nothing stopping you from priming black. You don't need to prime, but that doesn't mean that you can't prime. Heck, some people prime them white just so that they can use thinned paint for a base coat.
  11. The new Terminator-style CLIP 3D printers are apparently 10 times the resolution of the traditional "3D Printer". 3D printers are traditionally not really 3D, they're just layered 2D printing. The new CLIP printers could break the detail barrier. Link to Terminator-goo "CLIP" printer: That said, I agree with others who have said that terrain is already printable. Thingiverse is full of scale terrain that is interlocking and customizable. Especially since Dwarven Forge went bonkers, there have been a lot more efforts to make fully interchangable pieces. The only catch is that they're made of PLA/PVC instead of Bonesium/Dwarvenite.
  12. I bought a 17x10" sketchpad and tear out a page, then use it as my painting surface. When I paint a section, I can use my brush to daub the paper and write (with the brush if I'm lazy) what color it is or what blend it is: <daub> 2Linen 1GrsGn : 2 H2O -- Cloak <daub> 3Linen 1GrsGn : 3 H2O -- ^^ HiLite Can place the daub at any point through the painting, so long as it gets there. I can annotate with a pen after I'm done painting. Then I just snap a picture of the page when it's full, and grab another one. The sketchpad has like 250 pages, I've used maybe 15. Only drawback is that if you're doing drybrushing or flicking paint around you get blotches of spray everywhere. Also if you're stupid and put your brush down then you smear paint on your records. The section of the page near my water cup tends to have water marks too.
  13. I wouldn't call it "discussed". It was asked directly at least twice, once by you, and as far as I can see from that thread it was never answered. They went from "having detachable bases!" to being quite firmly attached. Part of the reason I bought them was so I could use them for both display and play. It's like a car salesman selling you a car, and then when you leave the lot he switches it for a slightly crappier one in the hopes you don't notice. It's a bait-and-switch as far as I'm concerned, except in this case we have no recourse and are just expected to put up with it. "The car I signed to buy yesterday had only 3000 miles, but this one has 5000"..."Oh no sir, you are mistaken, this is definitely your car".
  14. Also puzzled about this. They're "detachable" in the same sense that all Bones seem to be detachable: with a hobby knife. Only one of mine comes away from his base, and it's at his feet rather than base-within-a-base that I thought it would be. Mildly bummed that they are attached. They're super-spiffy sculpts but now I need to decide if I want to use them for gaming or display, rather than both.