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Wren last won the day on December 15 2016

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About Wren

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  • Birthday 07/13/67

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    Knoxville, TN (formerly Toronto, Canada)

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  1. Matte sealer is matte because of little particles in the solution that scatter the light. You need to shake it, really well, and then shake it some more. You also need to do this every time you use the bottle. If you don't do it consistently, you can end up with a situation where there's a higher concentration of particles in the last 1/3 of the bottle, and you'll get frosting as happened here. I think OneBoot is correct, you had a concentration of the matting agent in the nozzle of your bottle due to it being stored nose down. I have found nose down storage to work poorly with particle based substances. (I had a similar problem with some Secret Weapon washes.) Even if you shake them, the nozzle end of the bottle is smaller so it's easy for liquid to get trapped there and not circulated back into the mix when shaken. I store my brush on primer and sealer bottles on their sides in a drawer and that seems to work pretty well. (But still you need to shake, shake, shake!)
  2. What supplies do I need to bring to hands-on classes? I don't recognize the names of some of the instructors, do you have a list of their Reaper forum or other online painting noms de plume? Is there a waiting list for full classes? Is there a way to check on site if spots have opened up in a class?
  3. The same class topic/name from different instructors may be very different. Each of us develops our own content for classes independently, and may emphasize different techniques, reference materials, colour scheme approach, and so on to a topic like painting flesh tones or NMM or whatever other topic. So there is often a benefit to studying with different instructors because everyone teaches differently, and everyone learns differently. I cannot speak for every instructor to answer the question how much does a given topic of something I teach change from year to year. Speaking for myself, I review my class handouts, reference materials, and process for a subject prior to each session of teaching it. Sometimes I just clarify wording, sometimes I update photos, sometimes I add new information based on things I might have learned or expanded my understanding of, every great once in a while I tear it all down and rebuild it if there's been a significant enough shift in my approach/understanding. I am also always looking for ways to use better examples in class, which might include photos of figures, painting specific demonstration figures to have on hand, painting on paper, and whatever else I can think of to better help people understand. I am also always looking for a way to maximize the time people have to paint and get feedback from me in a hands-on class by streamlining the other stuff. So from one year to the next not a huge change, but a decent evolution all the time. As a student, I haven't taken a ton of repeat classes, but I've had a few other the years. Some painters seem to constantly be changing their approach and incorporating new things, with most it's more along the lines of over time refining what they do and/or how well they can convey that information to others. How much I get out of a class can also change based on me rather than the instructor. If I've made a fairly significant leap in understanding and/or ability to use my brush, I might get more or different information on a second round of going over similar material.
  4. On the upside, if the unbending repair doesn't work, needles can be replaced, so the airbrush as a whole isn't ruined. But still irritating, for sure!
  5. Accept the possibility that the first time or two might be a little frustrating, then just go at it. I had a similar fear. The worst part of the first few sessions was figuring out how to deal with problems. Once you get familiar with taking it apart and putting it back together, it's much less annoying. Apart from that, it's kind of the same as brush paint - you can always paint over mistakes or just strip paint off completely, nothing's irrevocable !
  6. That is a great job for your second mini! The Layer Up Reaper kit has a smaller brush in it. With being limited to two brushes in a kit, I have to pick the ones the are most useful for the overall techniques. It's a bit of a similar issue with those orcs - they have really fun surfaces to drybrush with the chainmail and fur textures, but they have pretty small eyes. You'll find some humanoid figures with larger eyes than these guys. But they don't look too terrible if they're just shadowed and the eyes aren't put in, kind of like they're squinting. Also what others mentioned is true - the brushes in the kits are solid for overall work, but even the best synthetic brush can't get as fine a point as a good sable, and a good sable would be prohibitively expensive to put into the kits. Sometimes brushes, even the really good expensive ones people are talking about, will have a hair or two that's a little too long. To address that, use a pair of tweezers and pull the problem hair to the side away from the other bristles, then snip or cut it off shorter. Don't pull it out with the tweezers, you don't want to make the area where the other bristles go under the metal ferrule looser, you just want to get the too long part out of the tip of your brush.
  7. I miss the years when I had time to take a class or three. Though often as not the ones I would most like to take occur at the same times as the ones I teach. ;->
  8. The Save vs. Hunger charity convention event in East Tennessee on April 8 and 8 will feature several miniature painting events. Stop by the paint table area for personalized painting instruction with up to four experienced painters and painting teachers. This is the kind of hobby instruction normally found only at large conventions! Rhonda Bender (aka Wren): author of Reaper’s Learn to Paint kits. Erin Hartwell (aka Corporea): Reaper forum favourite. Elizabeth Beckley-Brandford (aka Miniature Mistress): Co-teacher on Miniature Monthly’s Patreon Liz Hunt: Co-host of Facebook’s Hobby Hangout live painting sessions A paint and take event is also available at the paint table. Pick out a free miniature, sit down and paint it with our supplies*, and then it is yours to keep. People are also welcome to bring their own supplies and figures and just hang out and paint. Win painting supplies! Reaper Miniatures has very generously donated some paint and miniature figures as a prize package in the charity raffle. There is a ticket box next to each item in the raffle, so you only enter for prizes that interest you. Raffle prize winners will be announced Saturday at 6:30pm. Paint Table hours: Saturday April 8 from 10am to 8pm Sunday April 9 from 10am to 7pm Where: Second Harvest Food Bank of East Tennesee, 136 Harvest Ln, Maryville, TN, 37801 Save vs. Hunger is a charity gaming event with proceeds going to the Second Harvest Food Bank of East Tennessee. Events include Pathfinder, Dungeons and Dragons, several other RPGs, a board game lending library, used board games for sale, Wine & Canvas painting sessions, and more. Admission is $15 for the weekend, or $10 for a single day. There will be a small snack bar on site. More information on the event, including a link to the game schedule and snack bar menu, is available at the Save vs. Hunger website (http://savevshunger.org/), or look for their page on Facebook. *Paints and miniatures are generous donations from Reaper Miniatures. *Brushes and other supplies are kind gifts from Wine & Canvas Knoxville and Knoxville Area Miniature Painter group members.
  9. Some Kickstarters seem to offer at a discount, some offer at intended MSRP but with lots of extras, some at just at intended MSRP. Anything that ends up in retail will often be found for 20-30% off online (a lot of board gamers pretty much expect that as minimum discount), and I would imagine that some retailers trying to keep local buyers buying local will offer discounts. If you take the view that pledging in crowdfunders helps the thing get made at all and you're kind of investing in something you'd like to see, that will feel like less of an issue, if you view crowdfunders purely as a sort of preorder system, it may be more galling. (Though usually buying direct from the company from their website will also be at MSRP. Reaper is sort of in the middle - no discounts on web store sales, but discounts on bulk purchases through Kickstarter pledging.) I don't know the exact figures, but I worked for a store and with a distributor for a while so I have some very general knowledge. Distributors pay the game companies somewhere between 30-40% of MSRP, stores pay distributors between 45-60% of MSRP. Some manufacturers limit the amount of discount that can be put onto their products in online sales. The logic being that online stores have the unfair advantage of less overhead, but local game stores support the hobby more. I believe Games Workshop is pretty strict about this, I think Mayfair is another company with this kind of policy.
  10. It's not so much that I can't be up earlier in the morning (although I will avoid that when possible), as that it takes me several hours of being up before I'm fully alert and coherent. So I aim for later slots when teaching to maximize the chance of me being able to string together the correct words in an assemblage that has some hope of making sense. I just had my annual physical, where I was stumped by such questions as name of my allergist, my brain strenuously dislikes mornings. (I live in a top 10 allergy city, I see that guy more often than many of my friends. ;->) This is also part of the reason my classes have hand-outs. If I'm not at peak coherence in person, you go home with a pile of words that were carefully put together on days past when I was making sense. ;->
  11. It's like a chart that confirms I have way too many morning people among my friends. I'm pretty lonely there over in the right hand timeslots. ;->
  12. I recognize most of these as pieces by Noel Meyer. (Online nom de brush Skya.) She has taught classes at ReaperCons in the past, most recently on the subject of painting flats, like the man with a cart in the first picture. The ship falling off the edge of the world piece definitely was at this most recent ReaperCon, and others of the pieces were likely in previous ReaperCon shows. Several were made for the online Iron Painter contest for those who might be familiar with that. (I think the ship and sea monster piece is one of those, and Cyclops and Scarlet Witch, possibly another one or two but I'm not 100% sure and don't have the time to research.) She is also an accomplished 2D artist, and has been working on sculpting her own flats in recent years.
  13. It is also my understanding that some flow improver is added to Reaper brand paints when they are mixed. I went through a phase of using quite a lot of flow improver, and do not recall it noticeably affecting the durability of paint jobs. I will note that proper prep is as or more important as using sealer for sturdy paint. (I expand on that in this thread - http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/72940-do-i-need-to-seal-my-wargaming-minis/?hl=sealer#entry1503739) Flow improver will tend to make the paint feel runnier and like it's coming off the brush a bit easier. This is especially helpful for detail applications using small brushes, like eyes or freehand. Water will also make the paint feel runnier. Both make the paint more translucent. Wash Medium and most glaze mediums are thicker. They change the feel of the paint less, but still make it more translucent. This is especially helpful when heavily diluting paint to wash or glaze consistency. Some paints will also come out of suspension when heavily thinned. This happens less when you use thicker mediums than if you use just water. The vast majority of Reaper paints thin well with just water, but mileage may vary with other brands. Metallics have actual little flakes in them to cause the shine, so those will fall out of suspension when thinned, so Wash Medium or similar products are handy for thinning those.
  14. If you haven't been to an open style competition before, you might not know that you can include some additional information with your entry. You'll be given a card with the entry number on it to display next to the entry. You should definitely write on it that it's a scratch 3D sculpt. You are also welcome to include additional info like a photo of the render, and/or of the print before you paint it, or a copy of a sketch you might have done in the planning stages, a brief description of the creation process, stuff like that.