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mvincent

Bones Supporter
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About mvincent

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  1. mvincent

    Mantic : Terrain Crate 2 KS

    I did something similar for my Reaper Bones, but Army Painter Leather Brown primer came out far too dark when combined with Army Painter Strong Tone ink/dip (aka Minwax Polyshades Tudor satin stain). Army Painter Fur Brown primer seemed to work better for dark brown results, while Desert Yellow primer worked well for a light brown/sepia results. I dipped several hundred Bones this way, but I didn't like this technique when I tried it on terrain. Dry-brushing seemed more suitable (plus: it didn't require a mat spray afterwards to take off the gloss).
  2. mvincent

    Mantic : Terrain Crate 2 KS

    Ditto. I mostly play D&D and Call of Cthulhu, so these new sets seem perfect for me. The only down-side is that I have too much unpainted terrain. Any tips for getting Terrain Crates table-ready easily? I dry-brushed some of the brown pieces with light-brown... it seemed good enough.
  3. mvincent

    Mantic : Terrain Crate 2 KS

    Really? Out of the 80+ Kickstarters I've backed, the Terrain Crates was actually one of my favorites. It felt well run to me, and I was extremely pleased with the results, which seemed exactly like the concepts. I now have an obscene amount of (non-fragile) terrain at a ludicrously low price (I almost felt like I ripped them off)... so I'm pretty darn happy I didn't miss this one.
  4. mvincent

    Deep Madness Second Printing Kickstarter

    Can you elaborate? Are the tiles different in this set? (I didn't back the previous one, and want to re-purpose the tiles for RPG's)
  5. mvincent

    Mantic Terrain Crate

    I'm pretty happy with my shipment. I suppose I could use them unpainted, but I'd prefer not. Still: I don't have the desire to spend a lot of time. What's the quickest way to get these done? Can I just drybrush the brown pieces with light brown? Or do I really need to base-coat first?
  6. mvincent

    Cthulhu: Death May Die

    Ah: I hadn't used their rules, I just really liked having alternate sculpts (especially for re-use in RPG's), and it seemed like an excellent option for miniature games in general. It's too bad that the associated rules in that case didn't live up to the potential, but I'd like to see more innovative uses for miniatures, like: Representing a condition (binary state) via an alternate sculpt Representing gear with snap-on or magnetic bits Representing resource attrition (hit-points, ammo, crew) on larger models with removable bits (or even movable bits... just something more aesthetic than click-bases) Representing combos (kinda like the Small-World races) via a snap-together method (upper/lower? alternate bases? Chimeric creations?)
  7. mvincent

    Cthulhu: Death May Die

    Exactly! CMON made zombie versions of their zombicide heroes, so making crazed versions of their Cthulhu Investigators seems like a natural.
  8. mvincent

    Cthulhu: Death May Die

    Exactly. They nailed this one. I would never have pledged for it... until I noticed the price creeping up... which challenged me to start hitting refresh.
  9. mvincent

    Mantic Terrain Crate

    Luckily, I only use Army Painter now, after a 'tacky' experience with the some (non-Bones) minis. Yup. Actually I use Minwax Polyshades (Tudor Satin) instead of Army Painter QuickShade (due to it being much cheaper), but same difference.
  10. mvincent

    Mantic Terrain Crate

    What problem? (I spray-primer'd 1k+ so far without noticing an issue, but then I'm also not very fastidious, and I used dip afterwards)
  11. mvincent

    Call of Cthulhu 7th ed

    Correct: I pledged at one of the highest levels (Nyarlathotep), and I received everything (or a suitable substitute) long ago. I'm very happy with my loot, and the current line management.
  12. mvincent

    The Frost Collection: Version 2.0

    US dollars are currently worth more than Australian dollars.
  13. mvincent

    Dwarven Forge KS5 Back to the dungeon

    My biggest Tip for using Dwarven Forge (which completely changed my games): Gather some of those rigid plastic real-estate signs that litter the side of the road and assemble your dungeons on them. Two signs (side by side) are the perfect size for a dungeon (and dining room table). These plastic signs also allow you to easily move your Dungeon off the table afterwards, and to stack/store all your Dwarven Forge pieces. The plastic signs can also be placed on top of your dungeon, to hide the layout from your players until it is time. Most signs have a blank/white side (make sure to have that side facing up when using them)
  14. mvincent

    Mantic Terrain Crate

    After backing Reaper and Dwarven Forge, this was the next thing I needed. So I was curious: 1) Where did you get your furniture? 2) What were you wanting instead of furniture? 3) Is this more lop-sided than say, Reaper KS's? I recall in Reaper's original KS that if you didn't get a core 'Vampire' set, you were really 'leaving minis on the table'... I bought three Vamp sets despite already having plenty of minis already :)
  15. mvincent

    DCM BEHEMOTH

    In 3.5e, the Tarrasque was the Iconic campaign-ender against which optimizers measured their end-game prowess. I've used it several times (and would've loved to have had a 'mini' for it). In 4e, this changed to Orcus (which they eventually made a 'mini' for). I'm not sure what the new popular 'standard' is for 5e, but the Tarrasque is still pretty iconic. I've never once had an occasion to use my Epic sized dragon mini (Ancient Wyrms are just too powerful, intelligent and complex)... but the Tarrasque has always been the go-to epic punching bag.
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