Speak_Centurion

Members
  • Content count

    210
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Speak_Centurion

  1. I've noticed that "squeezing" with pliers is less damaging than trying to bend the armatures. The problem is that the more often you squeeze, the more the armature stretches out. You'd be surprised how far it will stretch btw, it's like rolling out dough with a rolling-pin. It's a shame there's not a smaller or female version; I can keep the standard armature to 32mm with lot of filing, but it's so much easier to squeeze it to shape.
  2. Does anyone know if the old version of the Reaper Advanced Armatures were made from a softer material? I bought four packs of the Mk2 ones, which I think are pewter, and they are very prone to cracking. I've got a fairly delicate touch, but I've broken two of them. In principle they're great, and I think it made sense to remove the hip bones (I don't have a pic at the moment - sorry) and the slightly more angular finish allows for better precision, but they are too brittle. IMO they would be the best pro-level armature available except for the problem of cracking. (edit - changed title)
  3. Fixed, thankyou.
  4. I've got some surplus soldered wire skeletons I made up in 32mm-ish scale - they're not precise, I was just practising and went a bit overboard. If you need any, send me a PM, I can post them in the UK for free. Wow. Photobucket sucks now. I've used it for years but I guess it's time to find an alternative. I'll attach the pics as files. Female 32mm: Male 32mm:
  5. IMO: Metal, better for organic shapes. Plastic(polystyrene), better for synthetic shapes.
  6. Darn it! Misleading title. Rabbits are good too though, and those armatures are looking nicely proportioned as usual.
  7. I take it back, the Reaper armatures are fine, they just need a little bit of filing. I'm not sure why, but gently filing all over the dolly seems to prevent cracks from starting. Perhaps it's because it rounds-off the surfaces, or it might be something to do with mold-lines. Also, I compared the Reaper dollies with a couple of dollies I bought from Greenstuff World; the GsW dollies are made from a softer material but are actually more prone to breaking than the Reaper dollies.
  8. Perhaps "quality" is the wrong word to use; the quality is fine I guess, it just seems like the wrong material to make dollies. I still like them, but there is a distinct sound of "click-click-crackity-click" as any pressure is applied, and the torso - the thickest part - seems to be the most fragile point so I file it down before I start bending it.
  9. Ignore everything I typed above. I'm going through a butt-sculpting crisis.
  10. Good tip about the knee, thanks Mori. I had to think about that one, but it makes sense. I can give you a tip about sculpting butts: The secret of sculpting butts* is there is no butt. Do not sculpt the butt, just sculpt the backs of the thighs. The butt will just happen**. I figured that out about 10 minutes ago. (*probably) (** sort of)
  11. Actually, that little sketch was helpful. Thanks Mori.
  12. I just this afternoon received a resin Shiraki Meiko figurine kit (I'd buy the genuine PVC one, but it's OOP and prices have gone bananas) which I'm finding quite useful in it's unassembled form because the torso piece gives me a really good cross-section view of the pelvis and hips, and being able to hold it in my hand I get a much better feel for the contours and how much bulk there should be.
  13. Damn it! How is Mori so good at sculpting the pelvis so soon? I am really, really struggling with the pelvis and thighs.
  14. More pics please!
  15. Considering it's early days, those are bloody good Mori. By the standards of professional sculpting, yes they are horribly, shamefully, bad, but really it's just a case of making little tweaks and refinements and developing your own personal method until your sculpting is just-so. I am definitely in imminent danger of being overtaken. You must be stopped.
  16. I think the sticky-outy bits of the ankles that no one ever knows the name of, could do with being a smaller and a bit higher. The distance from the sole of your foot should be roughly the span of four fingers. Try holding your own ankle to measure. It's hard to tell for sure looking at a photo though, and I'm almost nitpicking. There's one possible error I *think* I can see, but depending on how you sculpt, it may dissapear so I'll shut up until you come back and say "I can't understand what's gone wrong!". And if not, then I won't look like an idiot. Your sculpt is looking rather spiffingly good.
  17. Now that's just unfair. Mori, you are making annoyingly fast progress, it took me forever to get that far!
  18. Bam. Yep, you totally get it.
  19. Hi Mori. Great stuff! Did you say you were using Sculpey? I can't remember if Sculpey is sandable, but if it is, you could use sandpaper (wrap it or glue it to an old plastic card or something) to sand the ribs to the shape you want.
  20. I've two nieces and a nephew aged about 7,8 and 9; normally they are very physically active but on a rainy day they do sometimes like to play indoors, so I'm looking for some kind of tabletop game to suit them. I was thinking of something along the lines of HeroQuest, but much simpler and more suited to young children (one boy, 7, and two girls). I haven't seen much to choose from so far; if I see the word "system" mentioned I instantly switch off, which is I suspect exactly the same reaction they would have; what I am looking for is a game that does not need to be learned, the game itself should guide the players; ie; you pick up a card and it tells you what you have to do. It doesn't matter if the rule-system is good or logical, I think that's irrelevant to younger children, but there should be something for them to look at and hold in their hands; a game board, some cards, a couple of dice, and maybe some playing pieces. It should be visual and tactile. I don't play at all, but I'm starting to get the feeling that I'd have to invent the game myself. Surely there must be something out there already? These are the kind of games I think would get their attention, but they seem to be only PDF's and rule systems: http://munchkinandbean.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/tabletop-role-playing-games-for-kids.html
  21. YouTuber Trovarian gives a very good explanation of the pros and cons of plastic versus metal: Bones miniatures for human-sized figures aren't very good; if you compare the same Bones miniature to the original metal you can see how much sharpness of detail is lost. But they're a lot cheaper than metal.
  22. I'd wash them gently and let them air-dry. You could also use a blusher brush to dust miniatures. Oddly enough I've got about eight of them I pulled out of a skip, brand new and top quality.
  23. Are you using Vaseline? Petroleum jelly is great stuff but I use it judiciously because it has the side-effect of making the Greenstuff somewhat brittle. If you don't use Vaseline at all, the Greenstuff will retain more pliability and toughness. I wouldn't it worry about it too much though, if you intend to make castings the original will be destroyed in the process anyway, or if you just want to make-it-and-paint-it, you can seal the whole thing with a layer of varnish. If you are applying a small piece such as a belt buckle, you might need to blend it into place with the aid of a little Vaseline; the Vaseline will help to "melt" it to the surface or at least lubricate your tool enough to stop it pulling the buckle off. But yes, roughing-up a surface is definitely a thing; you might scrape it with a craft knife to remove any unwanted oils or sheen. I don't quite follow your second question; do you mean you cut the wires off of the base of the feet? I top my corks with plastic (glued on with general-purpose "white glue"), if you glue a bit of plastic to a cork, you can superglue a miniature's feet to the plastic. It can be removed later with careful use of a craft-knife and/or removing/bending the plastic. (btw, this armature looks great in the photo, but only in the photo! I had to file it down drastically)
  24. Typical kids. It's not you, most kids don't like things that are unfamiliar until they become familiar. My nieces like drawing with felt-tip pens and they like painting with paints, but they are quite indignant about the idea that felt-tip pens aren't very good for painting or that it helps to draw a picture with a pencil before you paint it. I think we've all seen kids doggedly try to color-in a whole sheet of paper with a felt-tip pen.
  25. It's easy to forget that you've got to take the sculpt out of the cork at some point! If it's not too delicate, I would take a craft blade and gently tease underneath the feet to break the bond. It'll probably pull out okay. If it won't pop out, then break up the cork to free it. It'll stick to a base no problem. I'd glue the feet wih superglue.