Maledrakh

Bones Supporter
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About Maledrakh

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  • Birthday 03/04/72

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    Norway

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  1. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  2. I made my wet palette out of a sponge, a sealable plastic food storage box and some food-grade baking paper a couple of years ago . I have had a long time struggling with different sorts of paper, most are wicking too much water and make all the paint go runny and useless after a while. I have tried using plastic sheet on top, the paint would not go runny, and would keep while the lid was on, but it would dry out while in use, so that was not a good solution. Then someone suggested I use backing paper (as in backing paper from stickers) mine are from shipping lablels) and that works a treat! I use a piece of tissue as a gasket layer between the sponge and the backing paper which keeps the back of the paper wet at all times so It stays flat. While the backing paper is quite shiny and repells water a bit, it is not completely waterproof, and lets just enough water through to keep the paint useable for hours rather than minutes, although if the paint is only a thin layer, that layer will still dry out, However, a blob will stay fresh and perfectly useable. And it keeps for days when the lid is on. I have not had any problems with mould. I rinse out the sponges and box every fortnight or so, and keep a single 5 eurocent piece in the bottom of the box. It does not ever get slimy or whiffy in the least.
  3. The Thing. Last seen on an Antarctic research station…At least that is what this makes me think of. So naturally, I painted it in fleshy tones to make is as horrid as can be. Strange plant life around here… Now, start rolling those Sanity Checks. 77521 Gravewailer Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 40mm base
  4. From the Bones 3: Mythos expansion comes the “Camel w/ Pack”. Luckily, the pack-part is loose and fits quite snugly so it is not nessecary to glue it on. This turned out to be a really good thing, as I left the pack on it and went on a few days’ trip. When I came back, the camel was listing heavily to it’s right side. I pulled them straight again, too bad I forgot to take a picture. still listing... Herein lies one of the problems with the bones material, especially when the legs or other supporting bits are thinnish. They sometimes cannot support the weight causing the mini to droop earthwards. The legs are fine for just the camel, but they could not support the weight of the pack as well, and bent over time. I have experienced that almost all dragons and larger models need a third contact point in addition to the legs, or some reinforcement with metal rods to avoid drooping. It could have been a wild camel if not for the bridle. ..and the pack. 80075 Camel w/ pack Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 3D printed 60x35mm oval base
  5. A pair of big cats from the second Bones Kickstarter campaign Expansion set #1. That expansion was a seemingly random collection of different minis, these were the only “natural” creatures it it. The camera washes out the colours even though I have reduced the wossitsname that makes it less washed out as much as possible. I think the female turned out better. There is something wonky about the face of the male. They are based on my 50x25mm 3D printed oval bases. I put the stl on thingiverse where it can be downloaded for free. and now I have a hankering for *that* candy bar. You know which one.
  6. I dont have the frostgrave ones, but they are usually based on 25mm bases (normal human size), while the bones ones are more comfortably based on 40mm,( more like ogre size). I believe the bones ones are significantly larger. And more good looking. (I dont think the frotsgrave gnolls really look like gnolls, more like bad beastmen of some sort.) but that's my opinion.
  7. Oh you are such a show off! Hot dang that is pretty! How long would you say it took to paint?
  8. These are Wererats, not Skaven at all: Being Bones, they are slightly soft in the details, especially the smaller ones. They are made of the slightly more rigid Bones material that most of the second kickstarter Bones were done in, and as such the thinner bits like blades and tails are still flexible, but not rubbery or so bendy as to droop under their own weight as has been known to happen to some Bones in extreme poses or with only the legs supporting heavy bodies, similar to the poses of these minis. However, these are all rigid enough not to have any such problems. So that is a win in my book. 77292: Giant Wererat: Erring on the side of caution with the backside picture, due to the ...huevos on display https://maledrakh.files.wordpress.com/2017/09/170927-reaper-bones-77292-giant-wererat-d.jpg The Rat Ogre (still can’t bring myself to call it a “Rat Ogor”) certainly has got a pair. 40mm base 77293: Wererat Berserker 30mm base 77294: Wererat Stalker 30mm base 77295: Wererat Assassin 30mm base These are all sculpted by Jason Wiebe according to the reaper store.
  9. Tentacular!
  10. Bones: 1 Kyphrixis translucent 1 Gravewailer 1 Camel w/ pack 2 Lions 4 Rodents of Unusual Size (wererats) 1 Gelatinous Cube 2 Vermin Spiders 1 Cemetary Golem Conan the Boardgame 1 King Conan's Lion 5 Pirates, the stretch goal variant Mantic: 12 Ghouls 1 The Others 7 SIns Controller of Wrath Games Workshop: 8 Kairic Acolytes, Cultists of Tzeentch 3 Old school plaguebearers Terrain / Scenery: 2 Statue of Dagon 4 Bones Mystic Circle 3 Bones Cthulhu Obelisk, Statue and Altar 3 Bones Altar of Evil, Well of Chaos and Sarcophagus 11 Conan TBG Chests and Sarcophagus 4 Forge World Roadside shrine, Oathsworn Treasures, Conan TBG Bookshelf
  11. Live

    would this then be a case of "all plastics are resin, but not all resins are plastics?" anyway, in the world of miniatures, "resin" would refer to a two part polymer that is mixed, cast in cold or not especially hot moulds, and when set cannot be unmixed or even melted down to be used again, typical compounds would be polyurethane or polyester. Any miscasts cannot be recycled into new castings. while "plastic" usually would refer to melted and pressure injected one-part material that can be remelted and injected again. typical compounds would be polystyrene, PVC / Bonesium "board game plastic" and also the "restic". miscasts can be remelted / recycled into new castings. I do not know which category the unicast material sorts under, but my suspisions are that technically it casts like "plastic", but handles like "resin" when it comes to modelling and painting.
  12. Live

    and the unicast material also is not HIPS. I belive it was said by prodos/archon back in the day when unicast first wsa revealed, that there was polystyrene in the material. I have one of the unicast minis from the space crusade range, and have just experimeneted a bit with poly cement and a piece of GW HIPS sprue. There is some tack, but the plastic does not stay glued under any sort of pressure. I dont think you could glue a multipart mini with poly cement. It is much closer to traditional resin than HIPS as far as I can tell, and does hold excellent detail. I do find the beating about the bush about the material a bit offputting.
  13. Live

    This makes me wonder if they are going to drop warzone, as this is very similar to bauhaus. The other thing I wonder about is why is this made in resin and not their unicast material?
  14. The scenery from The Bones 3: Mythos Expansion 77525 Great Obelisk. I have tried to vary the tones on the greys used here, on the obelisk itself and not just the cephalopod on top. It really does not show up too well in the pictures. 77523 Cthulhu Shrine A statue that causes sanity loss. As above, I trued to vary the tones,mostly with different coloured glazes. And they do not really show up in the pictures here either. This does not seem to have a code nor a name (yet). It is also from the Bones 3 Mythos Expansion. I will call it the Cultists Altar.
  15. These three pieces have been sitting around in a box for ages, I rediscovered them the other day and decided to just have at them. They really did not take more than a few minutes plus drying time each. 77136 Well of Chaos 77139 Altar of Evil 77137 Sarcophagus The well was filled with a drop of blue and a drop of unshaken green (=blotchy and stripey as the pigments had seperated alittle) vallejo paint. Just one drop directly from the dropper bottles into the well each, a very gentle stir and leave to dry. A little touch up around the edges and hey presto! I am pretty chuffed with the result. The stone is done by black undercoat, dark green/grey over that, heavily drybrushed with sandy yellow and lighter drybrush with offwhite. Differently coloured glazes help differentiate it a bit where needed.