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Maledrakh

Bones Supporter
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4630 Adventurer

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About Maledrakh

  • Rank
    Heroic
  • Birthday 03/04/72

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norway

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  1. It has been a long time not working on this. I actually had to dust it off a bit... It does say in the challenge that one may take ones time, so this will be done at a when it takes my fancy-type pace. Progress: a couple coats of the ancient citadel fire dragon crimson color added. I am happy to say it worked well over the grey.
  2. The following images depict a miniature of a female fairy in natura. I am not sure if these would be in conflict with the posting guidelines or not. Better safe than sorry. First picture Second picture Third picture Clear minis are best painted by undercoating with a matte clear varnish and then transparent paints such as inks. This mini has wings in vallejo pale grey wash before citadel carroburg crimson wet blended on drucii violet. Body in thinned old citadel turquoise glaze, hair and panties in army painter green ink. The eyes are the only bits painted with normal opaque paint. As this mini does not seem to be released as of yet, I do not know who sculpted it or what it's code or official name is.
  3. PolyHero Dice - Wizard Dice

    Got mine in Norway yesterday. Just a single set and the bonus d2. Nice dice, no complaints here.
  4. The minis from The Gluttony Expansion for The Others 7 Sins boardgame. aka The Greater Deamon of Bloated Body Horror. I call him Tetsuo. 40mm base. and his little mini me’s, the Abominations: I call them the six little pigs. 25mm bases. The Controller of Gluttony I call her Leeloo. 25mm base. All of these are made in board game plastic / Rigid PVC The Others 7 Sins is published by CMON / Guillotine Games with miniatures by Studio McVey.
  5. For the Company of Wolves: A real live one: This is the 77437 Winter Wolf from the third Reaper Bones kickstarter. And about the size of a horse, so I think of it as a werewolf’s full wolf form. Or a Dire Wolf as needs be. Miniature sculpted by Sandra Garrity. Bespoke 50x25mm 3D printed base. and the real dead ones Two pairs of 77533 Dread Wolves from the Graveyard Expansion from the Bones 3 KS. One pair brown and one pair grey. Ended up rather samey…Too dark perhaps. Bespoke 35x25mm 3D printed bases. In the immortal words of Lord Flashheart: "Woof Woof!"
  6. Today saw the completion of the three Void Sorcerors: Womma Womma Womma! All my thin pointy brushes have given up on life and chosed to split, so I am struggling abit with thin lines these days. While waiting for some new brushes I have ordred to arrive, we get a bit shoddy with the freehand symbols such as in these books. It should still be possible to make out which symbols I have tried to paint in each of them though. I hope. These are from the “Masters of the Void Deluxe Enemy Pack” for Shadows of Brimstone, the Wierd West lovecraftian horror scifi mashup dungeon delver. This pack also includes the three Void Hounds I did a few weeks ago. So that completes the minis from that expansion. The void sorcerors are on 30mm bases, and are made from HIPS polystyre aka “hard plastic”.
  7. Time of Legends: Joan of Arc

    I have been fascinated by medieval religous imagery for a long time (as in, how they portrayed images of heaven and hell in medieval art) and those apocalyptic minis just nail it. Also, that Dragon. and the Devil. And the Beast. and those other large ones that still are large when compared to 28mm... too many reductions to my will save! Even though I generally do not have much of an interest in small scales such as the pseudo-15mm used in this game, it will be fun doing an apocalyptic Army of Darkness / War of the Worlds mashup with my All Quiet on the Martian Front minis that I built but never got round to painting. Maybe this is the ticket to get some of them done. I do hope the human sized minis are about the same size as my AQotMF, although I suspect the ToL minis might be a tad smaller than my American Doughboys. Won't really matter at it will be the Tripods that will get stuck in!
  8. A slow start to the season for me this year. Bones: 5 77437 Winter Wolf & 77533 Dread Wolves. Mantic Kings of War: 1 Vampiress Lady Illona Shadows of Brimstone: 1 (XL Enemy): The Guardian of Targa 3 (Enemies): Void Sorcerors 7 (Enemies): Colonel Scafford and the Scafford Gang 2 (Heroes): Male and Female Orphans 1 (Hero) Nun / Female Preacher The Others: 7 Sins: 2 (Heroes) Agents of F.A.I.T.H. Alpha Team Rocco & Brad 1 (Enemy) The Mayor 6 (Enemy) Corrupted Acolytes Firemen 8 (Enemy) Avatar, Abominaitons and Controller of Gluttony Painted so far: November Target: 37/ 30 December Target: 0/31 2017 Target: 361 /365
  9. Heroines in Sensible Shoes 3

    This would be a fine specimen of the fabled Weirdly Enlarged Dagger of Outfoxing +3. it bewilders the wielders foes by looking as a mundane bastard sword, but being in fact a Dagger of Stabbing in the Back by Cutting Through the Front
  10. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  11. Wet Pallet

    I made my wet palette out of a sponge, a sealable plastic food storage box and some food-grade baking paper a couple of years ago . I have had a long time struggling with different sorts of paper, most are wicking too much water and make all the paint go runny and useless after a while. I have tried using plastic sheet on top, the paint would not go runny, and would keep while the lid was on, but it would dry out while in use, so that was not a good solution. Then someone suggested I use backing paper (as in backing paper from stickers) mine are from shipping lablels) and that works a treat! I use a piece of tissue as a gasket layer between the sponge and the backing paper which keeps the back of the paper wet at all times so It stays flat. While the backing paper is quite shiny and repells water a bit, it is not completely waterproof, and lets just enough water through to keep the paint useable for hours rather than minutes, although if the paint is only a thin layer, that layer will still dry out, However, a blob will stay fresh and perfectly useable. And it keeps for days when the lid is on. I have not had any problems with mould. I rinse out the sponges and box every fortnight or so, and keep a single 5 eurocent piece in the bottom of the box. It does not ever get slimy or whiffy in the least.
  12. The Thing. Last seen on an Antarctic research station…At least that is what this makes me think of. So naturally, I painted it in fleshy tones to make is as horrid as can be. Strange plant life around here… Now, start rolling those Sanity Checks. 77521 Gravewailer Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 40mm base
  13. Maledrakh's 80075 Camel w/ Pack

    From the Bones 3: Mythos expansion comes the “Camel w/ Pack”. Luckily, the pack-part is loose and fits quite snugly so it is not nessecary to glue it on. This turned out to be a really good thing, as I left the pack on it and went on a few days’ trip. When I came back, the camel was listing heavily to it’s right side. I pulled them straight again, too bad I forgot to take a picture. still listing... Herein lies one of the problems with the bones material, especially when the legs or other supporting bits are thinnish. They sometimes cannot support the weight causing the mini to droop earthwards. The legs are fine for just the camel, but they could not support the weight of the pack as well, and bent over time. I have experienced that almost all dragons and larger models need a third contact point in addition to the legs, or some reinforcement with metal rods to avoid drooping. It could have been a wild camel if not for the bridle. ..and the pack. 80075 Camel w/ pack Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 3D printed 60x35mm oval base
  14. Maledrakh's 77341 Lions

    A pair of big cats from the second Bones Kickstarter campaign Expansion set #1. That expansion was a seemingly random collection of different minis, these were the only “natural” creatures it it. The camera washes out the colours even though I have reduced the wossitsname that makes it less washed out as much as possible. I think the female turned out better. There is something wonky about the face of the male. They are based on my 50x25mm 3D printed oval bases. I put the stl on thingiverse where it can be downloaded for free. and now I have a hankering for *that* candy bar. You know which one.
  15. Gnolls: Bones vs Frostgrave size comparison

    I dont have the frostgrave ones, but they are usually based on 25mm bases (normal human size), while the bones ones are more comfortably based on 40mm,( more like ogre size). I believe the bones ones are significantly larger. And more good looking. (I dont think the frotsgrave gnolls really look like gnolls, more like bad beastmen of some sort.) but that's my opinion.
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