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Found 143 results

  1. SplotchyInk

    77215 Darkfathom

    Alright, this is less showing off and more about getting critiques about my more recent "ambitious but rubbish" project. I had three goals in mind when doing this one, make him look the part of a nasty angler fish with appropriate coloration, paint corrosion on the copper/brass armor, and attempt to make it look like his lure was glowing with an osl effect. The latter two things I haven't done before and from the looks of this current effort I still need some practice.
  2. I usually use Reaper and Vallejo paints. However, I'm curious about a couple of the citadel technical and dry paints, specially the Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust to create rust and corrosion effects. Any thoughts on how to achieve similar results with Reaper or Vallejo?
  3. Hello everybody! I'm looking to paint one of my dragons in a metallic brown color. So I'm trying to figure out which of Reaper's metal paints are the most brownish. It looks like 9049 Ancient Bronze, 9125 Scorched Metal, or 61132 Drillbit Metal might be what I'm looking for? Normally I'd go to my FLGS to compare colors side by side. The sample pics on the site don't always capture the color though. For example my Old Bronze looks quite a bit different the what I'd expect from the online picture. Unfortunately the store here doesn't carry all the Reaper colors. So does anybody happen to know which of the metallic paints would be the most brownish (least orangish) in color?
  4. As i wrote in another post here, I used "stainless steel" ball bearings as agitators in most of my paints after transferring them to drop bottles last year. And a couple of weeks ago, I discovered ball-shaped rust-brown discolorations through the bottoms of some of the paint bottles. Not so stainless after all. argh! So I spent a couple of hours last night fishing the offending balls out of the paints with the metal bit on an old brush and a magnet. messy affair as you might imagine. However, I got a few surprises. 1. Some of the balls had...grown, Big cancerous lumps were present on them, and were flat where they had lain on the bottom or sides of the bottle they had been in. seems the paint had not only rusted the balls, but reacted and made some sort of hardish "growths". 2. Some of the balls were stuck. they would not come out even when prodded vigourously with a pointy stick. actually broke my stick without dislodging one of them. "Dug in like an Alabama tick" to quote Ventura. 3. The rusted balls had gone blackish and pitted beneath the gunk and paint. not rust coloured at all. the rust colour could only be seen through the bottle itself, and did not seem to affect the colour of the paint. (probably not enough of it to matter.) 4. and strangest of all: paint from the Army painter, vallejo, citadel (several different older types), gamecraft, coat d'arms, -all had rusted balls. but not Reaper. NONE of the balls in my Reaper Paints had corroded. at all. Nice and shiny as the day they were put in. this i find really strange, as the different makes including reaper do seem to have more or less the same smell, and mix with no problems, Which leds me to belive they were similar chemically. Might anybody know why this is? yes, I know I should have thought of taking some pictures, but my fingers were covered in paint. (they still are in places. some of that simply won't scrub off.) and anyway, here is a shiny ball, there is a black ball, here is a paintcoverd lump of mini stalagmites. not too exiting really. So now, I hope that the hematite beads i dropped in the paint instead actually are hematite and not rip-offs like the so-called "stainless steel" balls were.
  5. Werewolvians

    Paint Thinning

    I always hear "thin your paint". What do you use to thin your paints and where can i get some? I've been using water, but that's not the greatest. For instance, I was painting some armor with Honed steel. Honed steel will get really thick quick, so I added a little water. It became way to watery and bubbly. But more importantly I need something to wet blend better. I only recently learned that the way to wet blend well is to thin your paints and do lots and lots of coats. Water doesn't work so well for that.
  6. KoiPwned

    Large Fig. Questions

    I've noticed that when I get minis that come in multiple pieces, they often don't line up precisely. The bigger the mini, the more gaps and distortion there seem to be. Specifically, I recently got #10006 Gauth (!!!GRANDFATHER! OF DRAGONS!!!)!) and the pieces of the body have some significant gaps now that I've got him assembled. I'd like to paint him for the 2015 annual diorama contest, but before I prime I'd like to make sure my finished product is going to look smooth and complete. Does anyone have any suggestions? What materials do you use? Etc. Also, I've never done a fig this big before. Is one bottle of paint going to be enough for the base color, or do I need to order more before I get started? I use the 1/2 oz bottles of Master Series Paint. I'd hate to get started on my base coat and find that I don't even have enough paint.
  7. I'm just wondering because my FLGS has a couple of sets of transparent tints. A 12 color set and a 16 color set. I thought they were badger originally, but apparently they are not. I realize they'd probably be designed for airbrush, but I'm wondering how they'd be used as brush on with medium, for example. Might they function like inks or reaper clears? I'd also like to know from anyone who's used them how they feel about the results, and please post links/pics if you have any. Thank you. edit: This is what I'm talking about.
  8. kristof65

    Liquitex Tardis Blue

    So which of these blue spray paints would you use on a rather large Tardis model? http://www.liquitex.com/us/shop/paints/professional/spray-paint/36093/
  9. Since I noticed there were folks who were distressed at not getting a bottle of Ginger Cookie paint, and I also noticed that Ginger Cookie was very close to Stained Ivory, I did a little paint mixing experiment this morning. On the right, Stained Ivory and Ginger Cookie side by side. On the left, some paint mixing. At the top, Earth Brown and Stained ivory. Below, Leather Brown and Stained Ivory. Each shown with a dot of Ginger Cookie (unlabeled) next to the mixed color.
  10. I am moving to another city to look for work, and can't take my paints because there isn't enough room in my sister's apartment to store or use them (plus she would kill me if paint got on anything). I am planning to store them with my other things at my parents' house until I get myself settled, which could be between 6-9 months, possibly longer in a worst case scenario. I've got a mix of paints, mostly Vallejo, P3, some RMS, a few Coat d'Arms. Right now they are being stored in the basement, sealed tight. I am anticipating at least one trip home during that period, and I intend to give them all a good shake at that time. Are there any further measures I should take so they remain viable? Thanks!
  11. New to the hobby and wondering both what people use to thin their paints, and whatever other 'essential' mixes are in your painting caddy. FLGS carries primarily Reaper MS paints/additives, so that's the stock I'm learning on. Planning on getting some empty dropper bottles soon, and trying to figure out what'd be most useful to put in them. I've seen a few stickied tutorials/threads with some info, but most are a few years old, and have either dead links, or are based off older paints, so I'm curious what works best with the current formulas. So - do you have a particular favorite mix? Does it vary for base coats, layers, washes, etc? Metallics? Metal vs Bones? Basically, what's your homebrew secret?
  12. Hello! I'll apologize right now if this isn't in the best place for it. I am a painting virgin, having only flirted with craft paint and plastic army men; but I think I'm ready for the big one. I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Bones 2 Kickstarter, and I want to have the widest variety of colors to cover the most situations. I am purchasing the Bones LtPK durring this glorious promotion that Reaper is doing, and I will have the first MSP HD paint add-on from the KS. Given the paint that comes in each, what colors/items am I missing that would help me have the widest range of colors for the best price? (I only need an item or two to get up to the $40 threshold to qualify for the Ghoulie bag). For help's sake, I will list the colors I will have below. 9030- Leather Brown 9037- Black 9039- White 9053- Honed Steel 9054- Polished Silver 9085- Shadowed Stone 9200- Harvest Brown 9228- Viper Green 9271- Dirty Bone 29801- Crimson Red 29806- Fireball Orange 29809- Pale Saffron x2 29811- Turf Green 29815- Dragon Blue x2 29820- Gem Purple 29822- Suntan Flesh 29823- Caucasian Flesh 29827- Griffon Tan 29829- Woodland Brown 29830- Ruddy Brown 29832- Concrete Grey Are there any glaring holes in my color selection? Are there any recommendations you have for what I should get in the name of variety and coverage? Is Reaper's brush-on primer worth it? I look forward to reading your wisdom! Thanks! IryokuHikari
  13. I'm pretty sure this will not affect Reaper paint at all (it being non-toxic and all). But I wonder what other paints out there that miniature painters use might be affected? http://online.wsj.com/articles/an-obituary-for-color-yellow-orange-and-red-1412718962
  14. I've been thinking about scanning paint swatches in digitally to get RGB / CMYK interpretations of them lately. I remember there being an old database where someone had done some of this that is now gone. Looking over my photography equipment here I realize I have a spectrophotometer that I use to calibrate all of my photo printers and monitors. So it seems to me it should be just as good at scanning color swatches of paint and getting RGB / CMYK values for them as well. If it works then I could have a database of these that could be useful for finding similar colors from other paint brands past and present. It will also get me into seeing all of my colors and giving all of my paints good shakes as a bonus. So I want to give this a try with a few colors and see how well it does work. But my problem is when I create these color swatches, what should I paint them on? So that is my question for the more art and paint experienced people here, what would be a good paper or material to use to make these swatches on? Is there something specific in the art world that would make a good place to paint on?
  15. I took a night off from painting to get myself organised a bit. See, I have one of those 4 drawer plastic carts (without the wheels) that I use for most of my art supplies. All of my mini paints are tossed in one of those drawers and every time I open the drawer, they fall over. On top of that, all of the lids look basically the same so it's hard to tell which brand I am grabbing and don't even get me started on how hard it is to find my brown liner when I need it. So, I took a trip to my local dollar store and bought some supplies and made something to help organize my paints so that I can find what I need. Hopefully this will help someone who has similar issues. Supplies List: 2 Foam core boards (got mine from the dollar store. they can be any color you like, I got black ones) Hot glue gun hot glue (I used about 3 small sticks) Hobby knife or box cutter straightedge would be helpful tape measure TOTAL COST $3 and I'll just put this disclaimer here... HOT GLUE GUNS ARE HOT, KNIVES ARE SHARP, AND FOAM COR COULD GIVE YOU A PAPER CUT. USE THE SUPPLIES CAREFULLY AND AS INTENDED! I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PAIN! Assembly and cutting took about 4 episodes (without commercials) of "Once upon a time" (3 hours ish) To begin, here is a pic of my paint drawer before all of this started. You can see my frustration. Start by measuring your drawers perimeter and decide how high you want your foam core to go. in my case the perimeter was 19" x 12" witha 2" height. I then cut a bunch of 2" strips from the foam core. since none of my measurements were longer than the width of my boards, I cut along the width leaving shorter pieces and more of them per board. I didn't count how many I cut and your size and amount may vary based on the style of drawer you use. Here are some of the strips and the perimeter set into the drawer to show how it fits. I did intentionally leave space at the front of the drawer. Now, using your hot glue gun, lay a bead of glue on the edges of your sides and glue them to the front and back pieces giving you a square/rectangle. fit it into your drawer to make sure it fits to your liking. Now, set a row of paints along one side and cut another strip to fit along side them like you see in the pic. If you glue the edges of the sides to the front/back then your dividers should be the same measurement as the side pieces. In my case, I needed 12" strips between each row of paints. Put hot glue on the edges of the divider then set it in place and press it against the paints and against the front/ back pieces. The hot glue dries quickly so it won't take long for it to set. You'll also notice the smaller divider to the left. i originally was going to give each pot its own square spot to sit. However once I got the first one in place, I noticed I could easily get 12 pots in each row with only once small divider in place. This allowed more paint post to fit in my drawer. Sadly, id didn't realize this until after I had glued the first one off-center. the rest of the dividers have a small one set in the middle so that each section can hold 6 pots of paint I should mention that for the most part, many of my paint pots are about the same size diameter. So Reaper, Vallejo, Secret Weapon, and army painter should all fit in each others slots. These will net 6 pots per section. P3 and Tamiya and possibly GW paint (not sure as I don't own any GW paint) are larger bottles and need a wider space. Keep this in mind when setting up your dividers. Here you can see how each section can hold 6 pots and each row hods 12 (2 sections). Just keep hot gluing the strips and dividers in place. at this point, I was getting ready for the larger paint pots. And finally, here is the finished piece with all of my paints organised. In my configuration, I can hold 132 pots of Reaper, Vallejo, Secret Weapon, or Army Painter and 30 P3 pots and 8 tamiya pots. I also have room in the front to hold my super glues. I may even figure something out in the front to hold my most used paint brushed horizontally. Due to height issues (my pots barely are short enough to shut the drawer) i didn't put a bottom on this, I just used the drawer bottom so I can't safely remove this and carry it around, but if your drawers are taller than mine, then you could feasibly put a bottom on and have a carrying caddy. You could also double stack them this way if you needed. If you were so inclined and had the space, you could add more small dividers as well. really you could make this however you wanted, this is just how mine worked out. And for a total cost for about $3, it was worth it. Now I need to go organize my basing drawer....
  16. So I was thinking of creating a thread where people could show off some of the nifty one-off colours we sometimes get as 'samples' from the awesome folks at Reaper. Would that be an OK thing with the Powers That Be? If so where would such a thread be appropriate? I'd like for people to be able to post pics of their sample colours but Show Off doesn't seem like the right place. Thanks for any guidance in this!
  17. I have three free sample paints that have come with my various orders over the years, They are nice paints and currently getting some use on my Relic Knights and Bones minis. There is just one problem I don't know what they are called so when I run out I won't be able to get more I have some sort of dark purple, a dark metallic purple and a light purple. I'm not sure I understand why they aren't labeled, surely they would provide more benefit to reaper if I could order more of the color when it runs out. Also being somewhat color blind make the non labeling problematic as well. I thought my newest one, the light purple, was blue, until my wife pointed it out to me as I was painting my Pathfinder mites. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining about free stuff, (I was quite pleased to see the bottle of paint in my last order) I'm just confused as to the reasoning behind not labeling the free samples. Also any guesses as to what colors I have would be appreciated. The lighter purple and the metallic purple are certainly ones I'll need to replace eventually. edit:added the word "wife" to where I mention her.
  18. redambrosia

    Iridescent beetles

    I've got my bionoid girly all sculpted and primed. Finally. Now the problem is how the fark am I going to paint her. I'd really like her to have the colours of those iridescent scarab beetles. I have no idea how to achieve this effect though, especially on something so tiny. Can anyone give me pointers? Examples of desired effect (I'd like mine to be more purpley though):
  19. Yo, folks. Questions: 1. When using a wash, how does one decide what color to use? I'm working with the Reaper triad, and I also picked up three Citadel shades the other day. Reaper's black I think I get. It gives a lining sort of effect and black shadows, in my early experimenting. The brown seemed to do pretty much obvious stuff with the mini I've tried it on--dirtied it up, gave it some shadows not quite so dark as the black but entirely noticeable. Would it be an avenue to explore for weathering/aging/whatevering wood and/or leather? The flesh wash--should I be trying to hit faces and hands with it? Save it for more scantily-clad minis? Something altogether else? I've also got some Athonian Camoshade, Agrax Earthshade, and Drakenhof Nightshade. So basically a green, a brown, and a blue wash. Unless I'm totally misreading. The Athonian I haven't used. What situations should I be looking at for a greenish wash? The Agrax seems pretty comparable to Reaper's brown. Is it? I haven't used it yet. I picked it up because everyone seems to swear by it--seems like I've seen it talked about with everything from skeletons to wood to leather. Thoughts and/or advice? I tried out the Drakenhof on a wizard's pale bluish robes with the hopes of both shadowing and blue-ing up the color as well. It seemed to work on both counts (though I wasn't entirely thrilled with the mini, but nevermind that). Was that a reasonable idea? What other considerations/situations should I keep in mind with this one? Or am I totally off the reservation with all this? 2. I'm painting a piece right now, and I mixed up a nice chocolate brown for a robe. I'm getting ready to highlight and got to thinking--should I vary up my colors with highlighting? I've been aiming for very-light versions of the base color. What would happen if I tried highlighting with something else? Is that a thing? Like, go with a yellow on a brown or some such? Or a red or orange or something? I feel like this question particularly makes less sense than it did when I was thinking about it earlier.
  20. Hey, all. I posted before in the stripping guide but figured it'd be best not to eff it up anymore. I've started trying to strip some lead (supposedly pewter, but the models are lead, from my research) miniatures from the 80's. I was really excited about the pieces, and I got a great deal, but they were previously painted--a kid's work, from the looks of it. I've never dealt with this before, but I'm guessing they're enamel paints. They're very shiny and glossy to look out, very smooth to the touch. I was ready to blast in with acetone and strip the mothas down. Only it's not working! A couple pieces on a six-hour soak followed by good scrubbing with a tooth brush has yielded little result. I decided to give them longer, added in more miniatures and let them go overnight. twelve-hour and eighteen-hours scrubs have produced little to no mentionable results. The acetone's turned murky, so something's happening, but I'm not losing the paint in any significant way. My understanding was that the acetone should be quick and effective, so obviously I need to try something else, right? I'll keep giving the minis currently soaking in acetone more time. Should I periodically change the acetone out, though, or stick with what's in there? What else might be good for removing tough old paints? We're looking at the toughest of the tough, apparently. I know a lot of folks swear by Simple Green, so I picked a jug up and have started soaking several minis in it. My understanding is that it can take 24 hours to tell whether it's really doing it, though. So I'll probably just leave it until tomorrow morning (maybe check it tonight, just to see). Sound about right? This a good option under the circumstances? I've also got a can of lacquer thinner. I'm going to try it this afternoon, most likely. I'm good with handling chemicals (licensed for all manner of nasty stuff thanks to my job), but still not really excited about it. Feel like this is hedging toward the nuclear. I'd love advice about these methods, and I'm certainly open to other suggestions. Any wisdom y'all have is greatly appreciated.
  21. Hi all, I'm a complete noob at painting and my debut will be with the Bones II Kickstarter. I know the Learn to Paint Kits are awesome, but I can't find them anywhere. I live in Brazil, have a limited budget (can afford 14 paints) and want to buy them until the end of August. (Import fees will increase by December) I wonder if I'm choosing the 14 best colors. Can you tell me if I'm doing it right? Pure White Pure Black Linen White Brown Liner Blue Sapphire Leaf Green Sun Yellow Carnage Red Chestnut Brown Walnut Brown Tanned Skin Aged Bone Fair Highlight Vallejo Steel An these are the miniatures that I will be painting: Lords of Darkness x1 Gelatinous Cube x1 Greater Demons x1 Devils x1 Cinder Dragon x1 Troll Slayer Sophie x2 Barbarians x1 Khanjira, the World Breaker x1 Dragons Don't Share x1 6 Goblins (Bones I) 6 Kobolds (Bones I) 9 Skeletons (Bones I) Thanks in advance! Any tips and suggestions would be appreciated!
  22. Hello everybody! I made a little paint shaker-mixer, of which I am quite proud of. Very simple, very silent, and not terribly efficient but it helps. It is a nice addition to my painting desk. In the video you can see it in action, along with an explanation of how it was made. Hope you like it!
  23. Daughter Dilvish

    Gonna Learn To Highlight!

    So today Dilvish and I went to visit Aard_Rinn and she gave me three cool brushes. (Thanks again Aard!) When I got home I immediately started to work on a serving wench for my D&D group, our last in school meet is next Friday. After I finished with everything Dilvish said the tomorrow he would teach me how to highlight hair on my minnies! I'm so excited! I'm gonna be posting picture of it as soon as I finish.
  24. Hymn

    Paint Club @ Reaper

    Hey, all! I'm a local-ish guy (down in Addison) wondering about the free Reaper Paint Club on Saturdays from 12-4. I have a few questions for all the veterans: 1) I'm an uber-n00b at painting. Though I hear all levels are welcome, will I be too out of place if I come? 2) I should have all the materials I need, but is there anything I SHOULD'NT bring that will already be there? 3) About how many people show up on any given weekend? Thanks in advance for your answers!
  25. pheonixwizzy

    my first mini

    hi people i been painitng for a few months now but thought i would post a few pics on here and see what people think. this is my first ever mini was actually impressed with myslef on this with it being my first. well apart from the face any way