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Found 13 results

  1. Long long time a go, a Sister painted some figures. You can check it out here ->Let's make a present ... Selfmade 3d Print "Friends"<- Well - I had to give them away before being able to make some pictures. Now that Christmas is over and more time available, my friend took the time to take some pictures of the figures. I was presented a big thanks and a present for Christmas from his family. Glad I made them happy (despite the difficulties I had).
  2. Hello all! I'm really trying to learn about sculpting for miniatures and here's my current project: It's a Golem from artist Chris Walton It's just at the Armature phase right now but i've started to block in my major shape masses. I'll post that when i get a bit further. Any help/suggestions/direction on how to make this more viable for print at around 30mm would be most appreciated! All the best, Andrew Cothill
  3. Hello everyone, So this is something special. Not only that 2 days ago I thought I wouldn't be able to paint over the rest of the year, but this is also some kind of a very personal present. But from the beginning - 2 days ago I got a short text message from my friend (you know the one I am always barbecuing with). He asked me if I was at home and if we could meet. I said yes. A few minutes later a big rescue vehicle appeared in our road, so I was a bit worried, then remembered ... well, he in fact is paramedic, so I took it lightly, while some people on the road were looking for something that had happened and so on ... you know that story. Long story short: The friend of his mum is a big fan of LGB (Lemann Groß Bahn model scale train in 1/43 scale or so) and he always wanted to have a personalized miniature for his displays. Partnering with a fellow scale train fan, they had found someone who made a 3d print sculpt of them. Unfortunately those miniatures didn't come in color so my friend took them and some reference photos and asked me if I could ... do the magic of colours on the figures and return them in time for the birthday of his mums friend, which is shortly before my travel to Japan in 2 weeks. I didn't know if that would be possible, but then I got a call informing me that I had been selected for readiness duty overnight before my last shift week, which means that I would sit here and do nothing for 3 days. Hell yeah - why not. Gimme dat! So I took the figures and said yes. I think this is an awesome, very personal present and knowing that I was asked to make some black figures into coloured ones makes me happy. I contribut to someones birthday present. Haha. I did that before, but not on such delicate figures. No pressure, Sis. No pressure. Well then - Lets go: The figures arrived like this: After I cleaned them using soap water and then water, I used my trusty Mr. Primer to get a base coat on them. That needs to dry now. More updates later. I think if I don't loose my patience and willingness to do everything in one run, I should be done on wednesday or thursday. We will see!
  4. Jay

    3d printed robot

    I work for a large movie company and wanted to reproduce one of their animated characters. Here's the result. This little guy is printed in PLA: The arms and legs are posable. I printed small links with a hole in the center and ran floral arrangement wire through them. I cut the wire from the legs inside the body and connected an LED for the eye. The wire is plastic coated so you have to sand paper off the plastic coating to make them conductive. You can see the wire connections inside the cup. At the local craft store they sold strings of miniature lights so I picked up several on sale. You get a battery holder with circuitry to regulate the current to the LED and as a bonus it has a timer to turn the LED on for six hours out of every twenty four. For convenience I drilled a hole for the wire and glued the battery holder to the bottom of the cup. The switch is accessible without taking the thing apart. It was a commissioned piece for our CTO. As he said "It's all about the toys!" Thanks for looking :)
  5. 28mm Modular Buildings Is Hayland Terrain's latest Kickstarter, to fund a range of Modern, Western, Steampunk & Wasteland modular buildings using the OpenLOCK connecting system for 3d printing. It has been funded and has unlocked 3 stretch goals extra modern walls x3, New modern building style and the wild west bar accessory set, they are also getting close to unlocking the fantasy theme, the last Kickstarter items are also on offer. Kickstarter link:
  6. Custom Legend of Zelda, Breath of the Wild inspired Paint scheme on elf warrior. The model is a 3D printed model and was brought to me by a customer She requested a Legend of Zelda inspired paint scheme based on a photo she provided of her character from the game. I really enjoyed doing this and translating the original art on to the model and I cant wait for a customer to bring me another challenge like this again. As allways if you liked this I post more pictures like this on my FB Page. Facebook.com/TabletopGlory
  7. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1989721065/warlayer-3d-printable-terrain?ref=category_newest War Layer is a brand new collection of the best 3d printable sci-fi wargaming terrain.
  8. Hi ! My name is Yann and I work on a new Kickstarter projet, online today :). My english is really really bad, so, for a good informations on this 3d print project, please, look here ^^ : https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vialudibunda/real-3d-fantasy-scenery-to-print-for-rpg-and-warga Thanks (,;,,,;,)
  9. Been working on a few big stompy robot designs since June, with an eye towards making my own independent faction for CAV, but also making them generic enough to be used elsewhere. This is the first one I've picked to work up fully as a ReaperCon entry, and be printable from a more-or-less standard 3D printer. The thing I've found is that curved shapes in the vertical axis really don't look that good. Too many "steps" as the shape is sliced into flat slivers. So, the trick was to print all the curves and other angled items along the plane of the print bed. Here's what the CAD looks like (PTC Creo Elements Direct Modeling Express 6.0). Each color is just making it visibly separate from the adjoining pieces, and doesn't mean anything once it is printed, as you can see all the blue pieces below. It's not all of the parts, since I forgot to take the picture of the other lower half. But, it is now all glued together, and some of the very flat parts were sanded smooth. I set out with the concept to also include some standard modelling items, so the barrel of the gun is a 5/32" (3.97mm) brass rod. I've got a couple of other ideas on some other little battle bots that use common items too... I just need to figure out what those common items could be. First shot shows the crewed side of the upper body. The gun itself is centered over the legs, and it is currently modeled in a split leg configuration. I've got it worked up that it can stand on two legs, as shown in the CAD render above. All that would need to be done is to swap out some short pegs that pin the joints together with some longer ones that go through both leg pieces, just for alignment and stability. Then here it is from the other side. This contains a fully decorative block of pieces, and the above shot shows a little block of deco as well. My intention is that should I keep making these, I can "upgrade" the later vehicles with missels, gun turrets, electronic suites, and other little fiddly bits. So this would equate to a Pre-Production Vehicle. Fully functional, but not something that'll be sent out and mass produced. One final shot to show the size comparison with a Spectre CAV that I've painted up before. I'm a little worried about how big of a base it'll have to be placed on, but then again, it's in a firing stance, and that's just how big it'll be. I've got the entire figure now drying from the slathering in acrylic gesso, which I'm using as part primer and part gap filler. Not something that would normally be used, but due to the nature of 3D printing, I believe it does well. I did do a couple test pieces back at the first of the month, and found a lot of modelling issues, but felt that the gesso worked rather well for what I wanted it to do. The plastic parts quite often had small gaps where it didn't fill in all the way, which I later changed in a couple small pieces to be 100% infilled internal spaces rather than the default 15%. I'll wait for everything to dry, then give it a good sanding. I might do a second coat as well, I'm not sure, but I really like how it came together. That is, once I got some epoxy glue that would actually work.
  10. This topic (here) reminded me that I actually bought five orc figures to print on my 3D printer from Dragon Lock, so I figured I might as well make a WIP out of me painting one of them. I picked the one I though looked the best, and would print the best. The printer I've got is a Dremel PLA printer, and I've been using the default software that came with the machine. They've since partnered with Auto Desk's Print Studio to add the ability to do supports, repairs and that sort of thing. Aside: I've been playing around with it while writing this post, and found a rather unusual thing happened. Print Studio had an "optimize rotation" button, which, being shiny and candy-like, I pressed. It put the orc snout down, and touching the bed in several spots. That's... an interesting idea of how to print it. Might do that just to compare. It might actually print better. The settings I used for it are below. It's a pretty basic printer, and I've done some dungeon terrain from their Kickstarter back at some point. I've also printed up large stuff, and attempted a CAV scale wooden pallet (yeah, that was too small). .10 mm layers .25 mm first layer 3 shells 35% infile, lines 80mm/s with 100 mm/s travel speed 220°C Fan on, 45°overhang So using the values above, here's the first picture. It's printed out in black. If one looks at the ax handle, at the top knob you'll see a little curly que. That's what happens when the printer doesn't have any supports across a location. By default (as shown in the settings), it's looking for a next layer that's no more than 45° angled to the next one. Well, that doesn't work very well with sudden horizontal surfaces such as the bottom of the torso portion of the figure. There's a lot of curly bits under the "kilt" (English failure for me noggin'), but I could always paint those as decorative tassels, really thick hair, etc. All told, it used less than 1.5m of PLA, which using the price I pay, comes out to about 30 cents for the material. That's really affordable for building up masses of mobs for a group to plow through. But let's get painting, and I'll start documenting some insights into this figure. Now it's really easy to see what we're up against. This is just automotive filling grey primer. And there's a lot that it didn't fill. But, it's a mook, and cheap, so let's not worry about winning any awards with it. (I've got a resin printer Kickstarter I've back, OLO, so it may do this at a better resolution; we'll see). There's that big curly string at the bottom of the base. That's a vine tendril maybe. The handle of the ax... that's... uh, very worn and aged wood. Yeah. The snout is... uh... lots of hair. Yeah. That's the ticket. Okay, so it's going to be pretty obviously a 3D printed figure. Meh. Mook. Cheap. Skip it. Let's start a base coat. I'm using Olive Drab, and going over the areas that are skin... and places that I think are skin. Here's where some insight comes in on how we can make this look better. Thought #1: There's no way a wash is going to work on this. It'll just exacerbate the layering. Not much to do there but avoid washes. If I'm going to want to do shadows, it's going to be by the brush. Thought #2: Forget painting sculpted details. Anything I can do to add detail however, will probably help hide the layering. Fancy patterns to simulate fabric (which might be really well looking, as I've got half the "weave" already built in), or insignia, or other such clutter will be useful in hiding the layers. Now, in the, (ouch) four hours I've been writing this post, I hit upon using the support features of Print Studio. Here's what it looks like if I print it in the same position. I believe all the yellow areas are locations where it's unsupported, and will frizz on me. Eh. Let's see what happens. And since it's pretty easy and cheap, let's do that strange optimized rotation, with supports. It looks like this: That's... interesting. But for science! I proceed!
  11. evilcoatrack

    Custom 3D Printed Dwarf Paladin

    I posted another one of Heroforge's custom ordered 3D printed minis the other day, and I just finished another one. This one didn't have the texture issues that the other three I've painted did - the only place I really notice rough texture is on the back side of the shield, which is fine. This particular character is the Paladin in the party I DM for (5th Edition, homebrew campaign). The symbol on his shield represents his deity (goddess of light, sunburst symbol) and the dwarven homeland he's far from (mountains). He recently joined an in-game faction called the Queensguard, so their symbol & colors are painted on his right pauldron.
  12. Alright, I'm putting this up here because I did in fact make the 3D model for this dragon and 3D printed him myself. I used "Sculpt"ris to design him and add in the details. I'd like to see what people think of the idea of using 3D modeling and 3D printing to make and test out masters of miniatures and 'if' this thing even belongs in the 'sculpting' section of the craft corner because it's not made of green stuff and I did not poke it and prod it with scary obscure molding tools. For a little back story on the character himself, this is one of my older characters named "Roal", his main feature that he's the over pampered spoiled dragon prince. A real lazy brat that roars about being 'fierce' and 'mighty' but due to his size and shape he gets no respect. I will probably have to keep on bugging Reaper in making a gluttonous fat dragon monster for my hero's to fight against in order to take his/her hoard, but until then I'll just use my dragon Roal instead. ((I was playing with the idea of having the players do everything they can to prevent the dragon from walking back too far or it's fat torso will get stuck in a narrow part of the cave, permanently sealing it off or not depending on if they let the dragon live. Anyway, leave a comment. I'd like to hear your opinions about this.
  13. This is a major (works in progress) item...it will be a (24" x 24") detailed interior view of the (Inn Of Crossed Lances) in (25-28mm)...At the pace I am working on this project, it will be another (9 to 12 months) before it is completed. Featured are the following: 1. FRONT DESK AREA with mail boxes & burning incense...(3 photos) 2. ARMOR, POTIONS, NOTIONS & ADVENTURE GEAR SHOP...(3 photos) 3. SCRIBE SHOP & LIBRARY (1 PHOTO)...in the works currently 4. HALLWAY PAINTING (1 PHOTO) 5. SMALL STORAGE ROOM (2 PHOTOS) 6. BLACKSMITH & CARPENTER SHOP (4 PHOTOS) Yet to go will be the following areas: A. SMALL STABLE (for 3 horses)......only an idea at this time...could be changed! B. LONG WOODEN BAR C. TAVERN MAIN ROOM (with tables & benches) D. HOT TUB ROOM......only an idea at this time...could be changed! E. SMALL BEDROOM W/SLEEPING SERVANT GIRL......only an idea at this time...could be changed! I hope that you fellow (RPG) game players like what I am building and would love to hear from you for other suggestions of possible areas that would be fun to include in this piece.
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